debolestis

No, but with Leonardo pro micro and Mmjoy2 and one usb cable F22 can be moded in 20 minutes.

These collars are of same height as Gardena nuts. Din connector can go first. I'll make some prints next month, collars are on top og my list. Shapeways has new version of nylon: black and grey polished. Black nylon parts were not as nice as other colours, now there is smooth black and finaly grey. Gray and black are in beta phase, I hope they'll be aproved soon.

Hi, I can make different versions of this part or modify this one. Just let me know.

I added a few new parts. First I needed D-sub blanks/covers. Sometimes when I mod joysticks there are usually a few of D-sub openings that look ugly. There are many D-sub variants, I draw DE-9 and DA-15, I think those are the most common. DE-9 DA-15 For installation you need two M3 screws and nuts. Nuts fits into hexagonal slot on the back side. I have also made two versions of locking nut for Cougar or Warthog. One that looks like F-16 nut and one that looks like F-15 nut. They are not 100% the same, I had problems drawing knurled surfaces, I did the best that I could, 3D printers have restrictions. F-16 Version Original F-15 Version Original These models are not tested, I hope they'll work. Save Save

I don't know. Only issue I had with my tailpieces was with FFSB R3 user who reported wobbling when tailpiece was installed. He used metal tailpiece. I don't know if that particular Warthog was flawed or there was problem with tailpiece. I had no other complaints, if you are not sure use plastic tailpiece and test it for yourself.

It is uploaded to my Shapeways store, you can buy it HERE.

I think it looks OK, when you upload to Shapeways model will be checked and you'll be informed if there are any problems. I don't know if teeth are necessary, it is up to you. Save

ABS is steonger, to bad you have custom taxes, nylon from shapeways is awesome.

Top opening is 25mm, thickness is approximately 3mm.

M4, no way, but you can easily tap that, for nylon you don't even have to use tap tool just screw the bolt into plastic. I printed M36, that works. What sort of Baur gimbal do you have, can you post a photo of it? Save

Shapeways has material that is called "strong and flexible". It is actually nylon. It is very strong, you'll see. I don't know what do you want to build. Metal prints are very expensive compared to nylon and are usually overkill.

OK, I'll do it in next day or two.

I saw Warthog throttle only once, I remember that levers must been lifted before throttling up. I don't remember afterburner detente. Does this part removes both?

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I added two more products that were requested. - LEFT HAND paddle lever for Cougar, FLCS and F22 - SFS box for Suncom F15 stick I know that SFS box is not cheap but that was the request. If you have any other ideas please send me a message.

Check PM. I bought springs from manufacturer in Croatia. I can order more, just send me a PM if you need springs.

Problem with that, in my opinion, is that cams need to be stronger, especially if warthog grip is going to be used. Than strong spring must be used and I think that 3D printed cams will simply break. Other than that great work.

Hi!. You need following: 1. Tailpiece 2. Gardena nut 3. 5 pin mini din male connector 4. This is optional, a paddle lever for F22/FLCS/Cougar Solder wires to connector like in this image: It is actually Cougar in the photo but wiring scheme is the same, wire colors are the same.

Good work! I see that you have removed screw under thumb switch. I thought of doing a same thing. Can you post more photos, I would like to see how you mounted those switches. I found this one: It is Otto P1, I think that is an original or something very similar. I am going to 3D print mounts for Alps 5way switches and finally finish "real" F-15 stick, after this heat wave passes.

I used this one.

Now something on head tracking. I have never had head tracking unit until recently. Thing that hold me back was the price. 167$ for TrackClip Pro Bundle is in my opinion too much for simple electronics. I was looking for alternatives and stumbled upon ED tracker, even better it has DIY version and that is what we do here. There is Ed tracker pro version for 45 Pounds and wireless for 69 Pounds, but there I saw EDTracker DIY PCB & Enclosure for 8 Pounds. Also Pro micro and MPU (sensor) are needed. I had spare Pro micro and I ordered MPU-9250 sensor from eBay. So in the end I spent around 17 Pounds. Later I found THIS LINK. There you can buy full bundle with all components for 17 Pounds. It is 22$. I followed THIS instructions for assembly. And THIS for flashing. Here is soldered PCB. It was very easy, even with my lousy soldering iron. Pro micro side: Sensor side Here it is when placed inside of enclosure Enclosure is Hammond 1551G, but some DIY modifications are needed. A hole for switch and slot for micro USB connector. Fully assembled I don't like to wear headphones or a hat so I use headband. A hi tech solution. And that is it works as advertised, no problems at all. I know there are better solutions but this is good enough for me and it is DIY.

I don't own a Warthog. I can make that part if you can measure it precisely with caliper. Draw something on paper with dimensions and is it.

I moved all photos from Photobucket to Imgur. 286 photos, boring.

It would be great. When you find some time.

I managed to transfer all of photos from this thread to imgur. Now I have to do the same for Suncom restauration thread.