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I have the opposite experience on my 1080p monitor. Constant stutters, erratic and lower framerate.

Yes, terrible performance since the update 1. Frustratingly, they seemed to fix the stuttering issue I had been having for over year, with 2.1. But it's back again.

Both shadow settings flat only! Helped me

I found that adding some felt (or similar material) adds a great deal of friction, and eliminates stiction entirely - it didn't cost me anything to do as I got a sample offcut from a fabric shop. If you want a more professional approach, use the other grease suggestion in the below link. I have actually added felt on the top and bottom of the plate, so there is no plastic contact on the rails now - it feels like a much more expensive, heavier throttle now. I also added a coating of electrical tape on the handle - so it feels rubberized and not cheap plastic. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=187219&highlight=twcs

Hi Rainer - I received the replacement base and it has the same issue, but this time on the X-Axis. http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2666&p=26788#p26788

I'm also using 1703, and saw no change in 2.05. I do however have plenty of framerate issues in 2.1, but can't say if 1703 has any bearing on that

This is an excellent analysis, thanks!

I have been downloading and reading the forum - kind of disappointed that people are already shooting down the new renderer, performance, and even download speed of the update... Guys, 2.1 is a massive update with or without Normandy. The fact Normandy is included makes it even more challenging to iron out issues. Expect bugs, and performance issues for the next few months, whilst ED refine all the new elements. As for downloading - we download at 800k on a good day in Australia. Stop whining. Thanks for your hard work ED, I look forward to many exciting years ahead, with an accurate renderer and new map(s) to play with :)

I think it has to be superhornets doesn't it? Pilot/Rio relationship is more important than the romantic relationship... that doesn't happen often in films.

We are roughly in the same industry.. damn, can you tell us what you've heard? ;)

There is an interview with Cruise where he said TG2 wouldn't happen unless it was shot live action. He was aware that was The foundation of the original. I think that's what excites me most about this news - hopefully they reached some sort of agreement with the Navy

Top Gun without the F-14 is not Top Gun. Having said that, I'm a little excited :)

Hi Rainer, check your PM please.

Rainer I might need your help again. I've got this strange spike in my y-axis that I can't seem to get rid of. http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2666

Yes, thanks for clarifying that Rohde :)

Rohde or someone with an extension - can you test in VKB_JoyTester for this issue? I'm trying to see if anyone else is getting this: http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2655 Thanks!

That's a fantastic write up Thadiun Okona, thank you for the insight. I will pick myself up some Nyogel 767a. I have tried so many average lubricants, all of which had different approaches but ultimately, the same pitfalls of stiction. On a side note, I am picking up my Gunfighter from the depot tomorrow morning, and I'm really excited about the damping offered by the dry clutches. Thank you for your part in bringing these to the flightsim community!

Hi guys, I have had success in modding my Thrustmaster TWCS throttle. Those of you who have the throttle would be aware of the stiction issue, as well as the relatively light friction. Both of these make the throttle feel cheap, light, and can become a frustration in making minor throttle adjustments. After trying various grease compounds to varying success, I have used felt on the contact points for one of the rails. You can try on both rails, but one was enough. Note: I am not a materials expert or thrustmaster employee, so mod at your own risk! ;) The following video by Charmed Baryon is a great guide to the internals of the TWCS. But needless to say, the process is not complicated: 1) Simply remove the baseplate, as indicated in the video 2) remove the 3 screws holding one side of the clamping plastic piece, and the 1 screw holding the friction bar in place (see picture below) 3) cut two pieces of felt (see picture below). Poke two of the 3 screws through the felt to hold in place while you reassemble the clamping plastic piece 4) Screw the 4 screws, and adjust to preferred tightness - I have mine tightened all the way and it gives the throttle very heavy but smooth feeling - needs bolting into your simpit. 5) Screw baseplate back on I have left grease on the back of the rail on the felt side, and the other rail is fully greased. That's it! It now has a much nicer feel. You should notice the improved friction, both in weight, and reduced stiction. You can experiment with different fabrics, but felt has worked well for me - just make sure it has a heavy duty backing, so the felt doesn't tear where the screws go through. Pics included below:

Yes indeed sorry, I did receive it. I was looking for the wrong email title

I can see my order is 'completed' on your site, but no tracking number yet. Sorry, I got your email earlier and was going to wait until Monday, but I thought I'd check because of this post :) EDIT: resolved, sorry, it was a Paypal message that I overlooked, tracking received. Out of interest, how many sticks shipped in this first batch?

That's excellent, great to hear. I'm coming from a ten year old X52, so I'm very eager to use it in action.

The second option is my first approach, certainly :) I have a central arm for the gunfighter that can be pivoted out the way for desk use, so if it proves to difficult, I'll try the cable and GX12-4. Thanks, and are you enjoying the Gunfighter?

Rainer, the cable that connects the Gunfighter base to the Black Box. What sort of cable is it? I might see about getting a long one from an electrical store if it's not too unusual :) thanks for the photos and video !

Thermal, I'll PM you :)

No problem at all, that makes sense. We'll be opening the housing to loosen the dampers anyway, so a spring change shouldn't be complicated :)