Braeden108

The 3D Pro is has a 1024 resolution. So it sounds like the way to go is to either get the MMJoy or find something with 16K resolution. Because adding a better pot or halleffect sensor wouldn't do because the stick can't actually detect the changes. Thanks for the help man

I went down to Home Depot a while ago and picked up a bit of PVC pipe and jammed it between the grip of my stick and the stick base. So the stick is now 1.5 feet long, which gives me great precision (highly recommended) I used a logitech extreme 3d for the base because I noticed the stick had no deadzone. This set up works great however I was doing some A2A refueling and I noticed if I moved the stick a quarter inch at the top it didn't register that ingame. So I went to DIView and noticed that my stick doesn't have the resolution for those tiny movements. I'm wondering where the bottle neck is here. Is it the encoders or is it the main board in the stick? If it's the main board anyone know of a good mainboard I can replace it with?

Here's a look at what I did.

You can hack up a stick all you want, I did it. I got some on/off/on switches and wired them into the hat switch circuit. The only think you need to do is make the circuit, and interrupt it with a switch just like the hat was already doing. You'll probably only get away with using that hat as 4 switches unless you're real clever with the pixie wrangling. However keep an eye out for diodes on your main board or switch board. They matter, not all sticks have them, Logitech Extreme 3D's do. Dunno about Saitek's. And you can use as many joysticks as you please. I use 4, plus a mouse and a keyboard, cooling pad, home brew head tracker. All tolled I have 9 USB's on my computer no issue.

I do the "not so dead spiral" thats where when a missle is coming at you you go into a helixal flight pattern in order to keep the missle turning it runs out of energy because of this and can be easily defeated.

I swear buy the K program. You can just mash the button and it will drop 2 flares per button press. Most missles tend to give up and go for the light show. Also cutting the throttle reduces the thermal signature of your engines.

I haven't found a way to change the brightness, but I have changed the color to red for the night mode (which I obviously use in the daytime now) which helps with the visibilty of the HUD a little bit. This post has a way to change it. And here's a download link for my modded file: http://www.filedropper.com/hudinit Also note that this is where the file is for DCS 1.5 (and probably 2.0) \DCS World\Mods\aircraft\A-10C\Cockpit\Scripts\HUD\Indicator\HUD_init.lua

I haven't found a way to change the brightness, but I have changed the color to red for the night mode (which I obviously use in the daytime now) which helps with the visibilty of the HUD a little bit. This post has a way to change it. And here's a download link for my modded file: http://www.filedropper.com/hudinit

Hey guys, you've probably all been noticing that multiplayer is getting nearly unplayable due to the game freezing every 20 seconds. I realized that the pauses always happen for me when a player joins into the game, or when a player flies into the load range. I remeber back when I played FSX some aircraft came with "multiplayer versions" where the non-player aircraft were simplified. Is there anything like this for DCS? I feel like a lower quality NPA would help a lot with the pausing in mutiplayer. AMD A10 @ 3.0 GHZ max with integrated graphics, standard hard drive.

Hey guys, I just built myself a set of rudder petals. I threw a potentiometer from a logitech stick's throttle to be my z axis so that there would be no deadzone. The first time I turned it on it was great I had no deadzone. But now after I've calibrated it there's an annoying deadzone. I want to get rid of this deadzone (the deadzone is in the windows controllers tab not DCS) So I'm wondering if there's maybe an alternative to using the default windows controller drivers. It'd be awesome if I had a little more say over what when on when my sticks are talking to my game. Any help is appreciated

Hey guys, I just built myself a set of rudder petals. I threw a potentiometer from a logitech stick's throttle to be my z axis so that there would be no deadzone. The first time I turned it on it was great I had no deadzone. But now after I've calibrated it there's an annoying deadzone. I want to get rid of this deadzone (the deadzone is in the windows controllers tab not DCS) So I'm wondering if there's maybe an alternative to using the default windows controller drivers. It'd be awesome if I had a little more say over what when on when my sticks are talking to my game. Any help is appreciated

Hell, if you have a thrust master wart hog how does that lighting work?

I was sitting in the Hawg at night and I noticed the consoles are metal, but light comes up through them. How?

I've been flying the Kamov more and more. I'm getting better and keeping her stable but I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for good maneuvers to practice for learning better helicopter control?

Radio colors have meaning, black means that your radio is off. Grey means the radio is on but not tuned right. White means on and ready to go. So switch the UHF radio on and give it a try. However for me everything will be on and good to go but my wingman just wont respond to my calls. I'm tuned right because he gives target location call outs. Maybe he's deaf?

One thing that helps me is that I never load an ECM, they're useless anyway, which allows me to load my sidewinders on the opposite side freeing up a little bit more visibility for the TGP. This is especially useful if you like to orbit the AO.

Thanks for the suggestion that's how I currently work it. It works but doesn't feel as good but oh well

I've built my own joystick out of various joysticks and parts. I wired in a rotary switch, like the one for your cars fan settings. Or the light switches in the A-10. Anyway, DCS A-10 only has settings for flaps up and flaps down, and not position 1 2 3. DOes anyone have any ideas of how I could make it so the first postion on my rotary was position 1 and 2 on 2 and so on?

It's a fine stick Nah it's a good stick I have one, just the throttle. But your problem is that you have force feedback enabled in the sim settings. I used to have this issue, all you need to do is go into your settings and disable it.

OHHH That makes a lot of sense.

If you look to either side of the panel in the A-10 you'll see a rope tied to something on the side, you can also see it running along the top of the panel. Does anyone know why it's there? Is the A-10 lashed together with rope? Is it a tent?