Braeden108

Yes, the joysticks board was attached, and the second beep occurred on every switch I tested, and it was always the same time after the first beep and the second always lasted the same amount of time.

Hey guys, I use an analog thumb stick built into my throttle for slew controls. I edited the curves the other day while in the middle of a flight on a multiplayer server. Low and behold after I adjusted the curves I could no longer move my cursor at all. I changed the curves back to what they were before, I reset the assignments back to default. No dice. Additionally I've hit another bug. When I try to change the controls in game I get a black screen after I hit OK. Ahhh joy. Any ideas?

Hahaha I love the sound of it

Hansolo, if I'm not mistaken you are the lucky bastard who got his hands on an A-10A throttle. I was really hoping to run into you. Thanks for the info Sokol1 You mentioned a lot of mechanisms for slew controls, which is best? If you think its a pressure sensitive method, should I use a strain gauge or a pressure sensor?

I'm wondering if anyone knows the mechanisms behind real world slew controls. The controls for moving targeting cameras, radar cursors etc. Do these controllers use pressure sensors, lots (like a gamepad thumb stick) or an 8 way hat like the pov hat?

Thanks for the redirect I've been wondering if there's a more MMjoy related forum.

I built my own homebrew track IR for $30. That's $20 of a genuine Wiimote and $10 in old TV remotes from goodwill. Works great. http://www.desiquintans.com/headtrack I've found the most important controls to map to the HOTAS are the ones on the A-10's HOTAS. Sounds silly, but what's on that stick is what you need in flight.

Dead warthog? Can I, can I have it? XD

Hey guys, another MMJoy question. I want to make a pressure sensitive slew controller. If you've ever used a Thinkpad they have a little nub in the middle of the keyboard which is a great little pressure sensitive mouse. I want to make one of those and put it on my joystick. I have the mechanical bits down, and I'm pretty sure I know how to do the electrical bits. However the software, is where it gets foggy for me. I'm thinking of using 2 pressure sensitive resistors for left and right then two more for up and down. Therefore I'm wondering if it's possible to tell MMJoy that one of the resistors is half of an axis and then another resistor is the other half? To maybe make that more understandable split an axis across two resistors? Thanks for the help guys! P.S another way I could do this is by using one 1 resistor for each axis and putting a spring with a set screw opposite the resistor and dialing in the screw such that the resistor is at half load. I think this could potentially work but it's more complicated and might be more difficult to implement.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Maybe I'll head to a junkyard and pick one up.

I think the T16000 is a good stick however the grip is really limited for buttons. I like my two hats and two triggers. But this stick works for me. I use the Phantom hawk grip and nothing else. My stick is a hodge podge of bodge. That I like to show off whenever I can :joystick: Its an experiment with a springless joystick. It's a proof of concept so it's not pretty. I asked you about force feedback sticks before, though you probably don't remember. This was why. And yes those are rocks, I needed wieght. I think I'll grow some grass in there.

Hey guys, I pulled apart my Speedlink Phantom Hawk joystick. I have plans to convert it to an arduino powered stick. I was identifying which button closed which circuit on the motherboard of the stick, so I put the negative probe of my multimeter on the ground wire, and my positive probe on as switches positive wire. I pressed the button my meter gave me a beep saying there was continuity all was going as expected. But when I released the switch the beeping stopped and then a quarter second later, and always a quarter second later I'd get a short beep out of my meter. This doesn't present a problem to me, I'm mainly curious what it is. Anyone have any ideas?

Calling that art.

So uhhh yeah, I wandered around in JoytoKey for a good 20 minutes. Couldn't find the button on release option. Where is it?

This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks a million! I actually bought joy to key earlier so that I could use my throttle for various web design functions.

Yeah I figured it was so expensive because it works 100% of the time. Also notice that its a multi pole switch so they can have redundant wiring.

I was wandering around digikey and I saw a switch that looked a lot like the master arm switch in the A-10. I'd've bought 10 immediately but I don't have $2,335.34 !?!?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!??!!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?! http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/honeywell-sensing-and-productivity-solutions/104TL2-12A/480-3372-ND/2507240

Hey guys, I've got MMJoy2 working, love it, I was wondering if there was a way that I could simulate a 3 position switch (SP3T) with a 2 position switch (SPDT). I think this would be done by telling the computer if button 1 and button 2 are not pressed then press button 3. A virtual switch pretty much. I want to do this for the A-10's autopilot switch. Right now I have it running on a rotary switch. But I just don't like that as much as a nice toggle switch.

Thats a great idea, personally I've always dreamed of making an ejection handle and mounting it to my chair. Also maybe add autopilot modes and radar on/off? Another thought, inkjet transfer paper. It will let you put decals on your panel.

Sweet thanks I'll take a look. And about those clones, once you deal with the USB chip comparability issues and upload your code are they plug and play from them on?

I found a wild hare up my exhaust today, maybe that's where I got this idea. I so bought a arduino pro micro the 8mhz one. I wanted to use MMJoy with it but that takes the 16 mhz one. I bought the 16 mhz one and MMJoy works great. But now I have this little arduino collecting dust. And so I had this crazy ass idea. Get some old point LCD display out of something maybe an old graphing calculator and make a CDU display for the A-10. Anyone have any wild ideas for this? The funnest part of this is I have zero coding skills and basic electrical abilities. I know what a zener diode is and I wire my own sticks. I'm also broke so, this is a low budget production. :megalol:

Sweet thank you! So if I'm getting this right the very very top of the panels is screen printed plastic?

So I'm sitting the the pit of the A-10 at night and I have the console lighting on. I notice the light seems to be coming through from underneath the side panels, but I don't get how this is possible because aren't they made out of metal? Or are they plastic, I'm so confused.

So I want to put some force feedback into my joystick. I know how I should mechanically implement it. Stepper motors connected to a the axis in some way, arduino controller, transitions to up the voltage from the arduino to the motors. Wall power for the motors. (Not direct OBV) The potentiometers in the stick for position information for the controller. Thats the mechanical and 'lectrical. Now, does anyone have any ideas as to how I'd get my computer to communicate with that? Should I maybe find an old FFB stick and frankenstick it in? Moonshot anyone?

SOLVED (for me) I uninstalled VJoy from my PC. Now I can trim.