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Everything posted by Braeden108
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Oh dear. Well mechanical pots it is for me!
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No luck. I put 5 volts through the sensor and the voltage did not change between the signal and ground.I tested it every which way. Is it possible to fry them? I porbably put 5v right across the signal and ground. Also one them got nice and warm. Hahaha -$10
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Of course! Thank you so much help.
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So I picked up some Honeywell ss495a1 which I've heard are compatible anywhere where there was a potentiometer. So as a test I dropped the sensor into a logitech 3d pro (as a test, final position will be in a promicro based stick) I have some strong neodymium button magnets. Which I waved every which way around the sensor and nothing happened. I hooked my mutlimeter onto the positive and the signal and I got a solid 2.696 v. Again I waved my magnet around. Nothing. Where am I going wrong?? :helpsmilie:
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I think my problem here is that I made the mistake of buying a 3.3v 8mhz chip. Not the 5.5 v 16mhz chip. I think the hex I uploaded was meant for the 5.5v18 mhz chip. Because the versions of the hex I uploaded and my configurator did match.
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So I can't use the latest release of mmjoy2 on a genuine spark fun promicro? I have to use an earlier version of mmjoy2 or do I have to use mjoy8 or 16? And thank you so much for creating this software. Great that I can talk to the creators of things so easily.
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I picked up a Sparkfun Pro-micro, I followed the listed steps in the tutorial but when I try to upload my settings to the board it claims that "configurator version does not meet the firm ware version" I hope someone out there has an idea.
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Personally I don't think learning how to command AI is very useful. I'm almost never in a position that requires me to command AI. Also the radio menu in DCS is poorly designed. So its hard to manage. Also if you're being shot down by enemy jets, while circling, thats because you're an easy target. :smilewink: Run and hide! As for the coordinate input, make sure you're putting an N and an E before long and lat (resp.) that should help bring it on target. Though, L/L coordinates are another one of those things that never gets used. I say swap your map to give you UTM readouts in the options menu. And if you need any assistance with the A-10 you can find me on Steam as Breedus. P.S your set up brings a godam tear to my eye.
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I'm trying to make a springless joystick, I don't like having to always fight the spring on my stick. I'd like it to just stay where I put it. AFAIK that's what real flight sticks do to some extent. I'm wondering if anyone has any knowledge of how real flight sticks are mounted and gimballed and how they achieve the springless-ness. Pictures would be great. Also if anyone has any good insight into how a real flight stick feels I'd be very interested in that.
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So there are 3 modes for a CCIP release. First is the standard, the bomb pipper is where the bomb will land. This is really only useful in really low level bombing. Luckily the guys over at Fairchild came up with 2 other modes. 3/9 and 5 mil. 3/9 and 5 mil makes it so the pipper is above where the bomb will fall. It allows you to mark a target with the pickle then it will go into a kind of CCRP mode to drop a bomb on the designated spot. You can turn it on with the IFFCC switch, flip it to the center and a menu on the hud will come up switch the first item (ccip concent mode I think) to 3/9 or 5 mil. I never use anything other than 3/9. (But I've never really tried 5 mil could be good) This probably doesn't make a lot of sense so here's a tutorial [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45Xe1M5LpY4[/ame]
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Anyone aware of the progress of IR launch detection? Or does the realsteel M2000 not have it?
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Yeah I checked that it was assigned. And I hear a lot of people have this issue.
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Oh of course, you burn through. I was flying the F-15 when I wondered this.
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Common problem. I have no trim. I have force feedback off and I have trimmer mode set to default. Ideas?
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I know the F-15 can fire it's missiles and have them home in on a jammer signal. Does the M-2000 have this feature?
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I can't seem to understand what you mean. I'm not sure what DCSBios is. Perhaps type this question in your native language and we might have more luck?
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So i think I may or may not have stumbled across an easter egg. I was in a 4 ship flight and I radioed my AI wingmen to check in, 2 and 3 checked in just fine. However when 4 was done checking in I heard a lion's roar. A legit lion's roar. Nice one ED :megalol:
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*Uncontrollable Squealing*
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I'm holding out hope, someone has to make it. I heard someone was but the posts are old. Any new news?
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1. I can't really speak to the accuracy of the Mk-82 air but I can say is maybe you're dropping them too high? They're meant to be dropped very low to the ground. Which is why they're high drag, as to not damage the aircraft when they detonate. 2. NWS is Nose Wheel Steering, I assume you're refering to the fact that the laser is on the same button as the NWS. Firstly make sure you're using the latch mode for the laser. That can be turned on by going to the control page and switching latch to On. This will make it so when you press the lase button the laser will stay on when you let go of the button. Then press it again to turn it off. You're probably missing high because you're pointing the targeting pod directly at the target. This can cause issues firstly because the A-10 doesn't know the truck is there, so if you tell it to shoot at the truck when the truck is in the center of the screen it will make a GPS mark point behind the truck where the pod is looking. To counteract this I recommend aiming at the base of the truck, somewhere on the ground around it. (This is important for GPS guided weapons too, more critical even.) This is also key because if you over fly the target with the targeting pod aimed at the target directly the laser will begin painting the opposite side of the truck, obscuring the laser from the view of the GBU, (Yes DCS is that realistic.) To counter this I aim out in front of the target, where the laser won't be obstructed when I overfly. However this doesn't work for armor because it requires a direct hit. In that case find some flat spot on the vehicle, turret or engine deck, where the laser wont be blocked. 3. The camera of the Maverick can only slew/gimbal so far. It will come off the rail and fire but the missile's camera is probably at max gimbal, causing it to lose track because it can no longer see the target. The only way to fix this is to not do it. Mavericks are a stand off weapon, meant to be fired from a distance. Look up how to make and use mark points, make a markpoint on your target fly out get some space between you and the target then fire. Mavericks are deadly accurate when used right. I've had maybe 2 miss in my 4-5 years flying. 4. You can set the MFCD (multifunctional control display) to night mode. However, you can't really look at the displays and have the NVG's on. You can look in your controls and find how to adjust the gain of the goggles to make the screens less intense. (Might be something like rctrl rshift h?) However, like I said white text is always gonna blind you. You can make the map less blinding by changing the map mode from auto to off. So it's just green lines and symbols no color map. (I actually do this day or night for visibily and because the color map doesn't do me much good anyhow) 5. I wish. I've never found a way. Might be able to mod the textures? 6. That happens to me too, I have no idea why. I wouldn't worry about it. 7. Goto the TAD on the right side hit NET then you'll see OWN ID and GROUP ID punch in your digits. (side note I highly recommend binding the UFC (up front controller) keypad to your numpad.) 8. I'm a little rusty on how to do this, look up data linking in the A-10. But I think it goes something like set your SPI to a target then go to the TAD and slew over the aircraft you want to datalink to and press send which will appear on the right side of the TAD on one of the OSB buttons. Though a better way to do this (faster) is to broadcast your SPI which is DMS left long. A big purple line will come out of your plane on the TAD and other people can hook your SPI, the downside is if you move your TGP the line will move too, and so will your wingman's TGP so your wingman should definitely make a markpoint there so you can look at something else. Radar missles: It would be kick ass if there was, but the A-10 was a tank buster when it first came out. And radar sams aren't really an issue for the real air force right now. Besides the F-35 can shoot them. And about the second screen MFD's yes there is. But I have no idea how. But I bet there's a lot of tutorials on how to do it. If you find a good one I'm all ears.
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Sorry had to make the pun. I (kinda, I modded it with a new grip and extension) have a Logitech 3D pro as my joystick. I should upgrade it to something better. But I don't have that kinda cash rolling around right now. I was wondering if I could get some better potentiometers some where that I could drop into the stick? Crazy question I know but maybe someone knows?
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Trim and TrackIR problems with version 1.5.4.454080
Braeden108 replied to v2tec's topic in DCS: A-10C Warthog
Turn off force feed back in the options to fix the trim issue. -
Awesome thanks for the fix! Also I must say the Mi-8 is beyond amazing fantastic work! The instruments they flight dynamics, brilliant stellar work.
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How do you ascend normally in a helicopter? More collective, and/or pulling back on the cyclic. In the latter you're making the front side of the rotor disk higher than the back, and you go up. When you enter a turn you're making one side of the rotor disk higher than the other, however in this case it's simply the right or left side, higher or lower. Coupled with the fact that you still have inertia in the direction you were just going. If this doesn't make sense consider this. You're flying sideways, your nose is north but you're travelling east? What happens if you move the cyclic left and raise the eastern side of the rotor disk? You go up. This is the same thing as the turn, except in the turn you have forward inertia.
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I was reading through the manual because I want to become more effective with the gunsight. I came across and equation on page 177. It uses target range target size and angular size. I'd love to be able to use this equation but I don't know that the t and the g mean. As in 2tg(0.5)