HitchHikingFlatlander

That's the one thank you. I knew it was an off the wall name............

Yeah I haven't started mine yet deciding to work on the pit structure first instead. Will be starting sometime soon. I have the first batch card too, already knew the diodes were going to be a pain, glad you can confirm it lol.

Damn that's really nice. How's your chair for comfort these days? I'm thinking of replacing some of the foam in mine.

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2712940/Re_A_Good_Joystick_to_Hack.html#Post2712940 More or less what I did with mine.

I bought and modified a playseat a few years back and it's served me well since. It was designed for a race wheel and pedals but with a little work I added a solid stick mount and two small side consoles. They now make flight versions of their chair setups. Plenty of alternatives out there to playseat depending on how much you want to spend.

No I own a HOTAS Warthog so the anything being pressed on the HOTAS has no consequence on the X-Key controller. Everything on the HOTAS is assigned via a game device NOT keyboard. If I sound a little confusing here's what I mean, no button or switch on the HOTAS uses a keyboard command to work. When I press the trigger is doesn't use CTRL+Space to fire it just accesses the trigger command. So what I'm trying to say is in my case the X-Keys card is only being used on panels in my pit. Yes some commands/switches must be held for operation but very few if any have to be held at the same time. In any case I believe the software for the X-Key controllers handles this by sending separate commands. Maybe Cat can explain this better, I'm no engineer and I don't work for X-Keys but I know your suspected issues are not an issue at all. Have you tried asking your questions to a support rep at X-Keys site? You have the wrong idea of how this board works IMHO. Good luck with whatever you decide to use.

Are you looking for a game controller to build your own HOTAS or a input controller to build switch panels? If the former then X-Keys isn't going to be a good solution anyways if the latter there are not many commands that require you to hold down two keys at once. Very few panels on the A10C (if any) require you to flip two toggle switches at once, very few require you to "hold" them down. In my case I have a Warthog HOTAS so using a keyboard command for firing the cannon doesn't even come into play. When I press the trigger on my HOTAS it doesn't use the keyboard command. When I need to flip a switch to "on" using my X-keys controller (lets say CTRL+R) it only throws the command once even though the switch is still flipped. I don't know what you're planning for your own project but in my project your potential issues won't come into play. Remember the XKeys isn't a keyboard it's an input controller.

I think you misunderstand how the XKeys works. The XKeys is also a HID device and you program switch states. You can program a toggle to only send one key press or repeated key press for example. Its a decent product and affordable way to wire in 128 inputs to your simulator. DCS from what I understand has a much better way at handling multiple input solutions than say Falcon (which by DCS standards is ancient in age). We wouldn't be putting in all this effort if it wasn't likely to work anyways........ In any case would your example be valid? Lets say CTRL+H is assigned something and CTRL+A is too (on just the keyboard). In this case you can't hold CTRL+H down and then press CTRL+A anyways right?

I went with the X-Keys because it had more inputs. I'm going to be getting a Leo Bodnar or alternative too since I have to rewire my saitek rudder pedals (they are fried). There is a company that makes something very similar to the Leo X board for a bit cheaper. I can't remember the site though, Cat 101 probably will remember or one of the DCS guys.

Thanks guys! I took a few pictures of my front console enclosure roughly (temporary) mocked up. This is what the inside base looks like. I cut out the spot where the projector will need to drop through (this way the proj. itself doesn't blok the image. I'm hoping I can just tilt the front lens through enough to project and bounce back off the mirror without catching the protruding proj. in the image! Just a rough mock up need to work on some framework here and make some adjustments.

Awesome work guys, I like the approach you took to building. And yes as noted oxygen bottle of choice.

Well you can have your own mancave or tell her you'll be forced to go to bars and strip clubs instead for entertainment. Dimebug thanks for the measurements, next project is to find some strips (like aluminum) for mounting panels. I think I'm going to use a hole saw to cut a few holes for cable management, cutting with a jigsaw gets tiring LOL!

I've been busy again this weekend building my side consoles and working on my front panel enclosure. As always I'll let the pictures do the talking. Everything drawn out on the MDF.... In case you were wondering if I had some high tech fancy ass jigsaw. No I don't just an ancient B&D with two speeds. Old as it is though it's very well built and cuts straight. They don't make them like they used too. Damn thing is probably 5-10yrs older than me LOL! Front and back of consoles. Going to use the back sides to trace the middle ribs. I also cut the back to the front panel enclosure. This is where the mirror will end up. Using cheap 1.5"x1.5" wood for the struts. Right side With the ribs added. They're just floating right now, I'll attach them when I get their locations settled. Both consoles cut. A little mock up to get an idea of where this is going. Nothing is permanent here just a rough fit. I based my side consoles off of Dimebugs amazing work but altered them a little to fit my own needs. Y2kiah designed the front console and again based my design off it. These guys have made some awesome designs and are awesome even more for sharing them. Without their designs I couldn't have even started. I need to finish framing out my front console enclosure so I can mount the projector and test out helios.

Dimebug as I'm loosely following your plans for the left and right consoles I have a question about the Right console. Where does the incline start near the front of the console? In your instructions the breakdown of distances in between show the dimensions for the left console not the right. It then repeats those dimensions for the left side as well. Thanks for all your hard work Dimebug and for sharing it as well. I wouldn't know where to start without using your plans as a base.

Just a couple pics from another proj. test. From the back good coverage.

Very Nice Icemaker!

Too expensive Advicepuppy........ or we would! Not to mention local/federal govt.s usually frown on civilians building CAS aircraft for fun........... I wish I went to college and joined the air force.

That's looking really good, I usually don't care for the fixed position of ejection seat replicas but that looks outstanding and even possible comfortable (with some cushions of course). In any case looking really good Icemaker. I already have an itch to start my side consoles now.

Some Jigsaws (most I think actually) have a metal guide that clamps to the base of the saw that can help keep you straight. I do the same as Mr. Burns above just remember to go slow and take your time. When cutting tight curves you sometimes have to get creative or cut some relied cuts in the area that will be discarded.

Awesome man. Do you do the lettering on the CNC too? I thought I read a post by you where you mentioned an engraver just curious in any case.

Well then you can just give me the consoles Linden and I'll hold onto them for testing LOL!

Those look amazing Linden, what did you use to cut them?

Look at my thread in the first page Y2kiahs dimensions are what I used to build my front panel. If you need the full file I can send it to you just PM me.

Good to hear, glad you figured it out!

Yes that's it LOL! I forgot in my list that I have a Dremel too (Craftsman version), I haven't used it much though just to sand the inside edges of the holes I cut out. Still its a very useful tool to have in the garage. I have other power tools of various types like: Reciprocating Saw Miter Saw Skill Saw Router (don't have any useful bits though) SHOP VAC (I can't tell you how useful this is in cleaning up!) I also have the general handymans assortment of hand tools including clamps (MUST HAVE CLAMPS). I don't want to give the impression that my earlier list is all I'm using, just the main tools I'm using so far. EDIT: In the end you only have to satisfy yourself. My first pit was just an old Playseat setup with a bunch of wood shelves bolted on in various places. The bigger the project the more cost, time and effort it will take.