Greyman

For future reference then, is there a way of accessing the track file, for the last flight, if you haven't saved it?

Apparently, if you have used the Windows calibration, you will need to reset the throttle back to its factory defaults and then redo a TM calibration. Perhaps ironically, to set the throttle back to its defaults, you will need to use the button next to the Calibrate.. button that you probably used to do the windows calibration.

From a fellow 56-year-old, it sounds like DCS has done its normal trick of assigning more than one control to each of the control axes. Get into the aircraft you want to use and press ESC. Select adjust controls. Then, in the second drop down box, select axis commands. The listed commands will include things like pitch, roll, rudders and thrust ( for each of the 2 engines in the A10c). As you have already noticed, for each of the commands (rows) there will be entries in more than one of the controllers (columns) To correct the issues you are seeing, just click on the entries that you don't need and press the clear button at the bottom of the screen. That should just leave entries for your joystick, in pitch and roll; for your rudder pedals, in Rudder/yaw; for your throttles, in thrust (left and right for the A10c)

Having spent a little time actually watching how far the nosewheel turns in NWS HI and confirming that it does stop turning at more or less the point at which my rudder pedals are at full deflection it looks like my theory about the causes of hornet "oversteer" was not correct/lacking in evidence/flawed/wrong. "It is no more, it is an ex" theory Let's just say that this "humble pie" tastes a little salty, albeit not totally inedible. :) Sorry all and thanks @Lex, for the reality check.

That's how I had interpreted it. We'll have to see, but given that DCS will know which side every aircraft in the theatre is on, this initial system can be as powerful/easy to use as they want. It might be just a placeholder system and they won't be able to make it too powerful or too weak, for all of the reasons argued above, and it won't necessarily need to be absolutely realistic, but something should be there.

While you're here and possibly at a location where it isn't nearly 1am, have you tried watching the front wheel while adjusting your rudders? What I'll be looking at later today, if you haven't already, is whether the wheel stops turning before your pedals get to full deflection?

Did you check that you hadn't left your axis settings in their modified state. (Sorry, I have read your OP again and saw that you had already managed to get rid of the issue by tuning your rudder/slider axis.)

From the LGB video and Wags' comments, it looks like, for now at least, 1688 will be the only available code. If some way of changing the code on the ground is to be provided, that would be fine for self-lasing missions but it might make JTAC missions interesting, to synchronise codes. I'd guess they will leave the code on all JTAC missions as 1688 and posssibly provide something on the rearm screen to set a different one(s) for self-lasing missions. Edit: I hadn't seen Wags' post, or subsequent ones, when I pressed send. I need to type faster maybe. ;)

I have a fair bit of spare time, so I'll do a bit of experimentation with the axis curve on my rudder pedals, to see, if my theory is correct, whether I can match the modelled angle of turn with the direction of the graphical front wheel. I'll report back, whether or not to eat humble pie. :) Edit: by the way, how do you define "full deflection". Would that be 90 degrees or the deflection drawn on the visual model?

Ah ok then. You believe that if you will and I'll stick to my theory. Just look at the max angle that the graphical wheel can turn and a free spinning wheel would easily make that turn at the sorts of speeds we are talking about. It would certainly not stop spinning in a way that you describe and even at a higher speed I'd love to see a RL video of a stopped and skidding wheel travel in anything other than a straight line. Either way, it will be any easy theory to prove or disprove, by the OP limiting the range of their slider axis to a point where the aircraft follows the track of the wheel at its maximum graphical deflection.

So how else would you explain the aircraft travelling in the opposite direction to the way that the rudder pedals are telling it to go?

As it's my "pension day" tomorrow, I've finally pre-ordered. Looking on the bright side, being retired should provide loads of spare time to fly it. There has to be some consolation for being so "old". :p

I'm about a week more optimistic, but either way, i'm sure we will soon find out.

Just to rule out an alternative explanation, are you absolutely certain that the profile you are setting up is the one that is being used when you load the aircraft? For example, the f18 has two profiles, one for game mode and one for Sim mode and if you amend one, via the main menu settings "cog", and then load the aircraft, with settings to load the other, it will look like your changes have disappeared. If you are sure you are looking at the same profile, just ignore me and I'll go away. ;)

You can add your own spoken version of "Arco" to the voice recognition dictionary. I've done this for a fair few words, mainly the names of Russian airfields that I am most likely mispronouncing.

It'd be nice if you could "magic up" energy though, wouldn't it? Things like perpetual motion and an end to global warming would be possible, to name but two. Damn that Conservation of Energy law. ;)

Let's say that the modelling of the turn of the front wheel used to determine the direction of travel does not exactly match the graphical representation of said front wheel, which is probably capped before it gets to 90degrees.. If the input to the front wheel would turn it beyond 90 degrees. which could be a function of the slider that the OP is using, then the back of the wheel becomes the front and the wheel will then roll the other way, causing the aircraft to move in the opposite direction. At, or very close to, 90degrees. the wheel would probably stop rolling altogether. The solution would therefore either be for ED to set a limit for how tight the front wheel can move, to match that of the actual aircraft or for the OP to somehow calibrate the slider axis so that it doesn't try to turn the wheel so much. simples :)

Try it with the F15

Sensibly, I suppose that the boom control surfaces wouldn't need to be that large, as guiding a disconnected boom would be relatively easy and once connected to multiple tonnes of aircraft, they would be easily overriden by the pilot of the receiver?

ah, Thrustmaster the joystick maker. I was thinking it might be the latest nickname of a famous world leader, who tends to tweet a lot. ;)

Which is why i typed the apparently unread last sentence of the post that you quoted.

i guess a very cold and wet carrier deck or airstrip, before takeoff when there is WoW, might increase the risk of a pitot tube freezing up, so it might be possible to see the warning on the ground if the switch is in Auto???

the confusion perhaps arises out of the fact that the two systems appear to share a single warning message, so the default response is likely to be to switch both to "on". Like i said earlier though, if the Pitot Heat system is effectively on all of the time that the aircraft is in the air, regardless of the switch position, then the "Pitot" bit of the warning message is unlikely to be anything to do with how the switches are set. apart from perhaps the switch being in the Auto setting alongside a fault in the WoW sensor system.

When I've previously flicked it to the on position, the warning message has disappeared, so it looks like either auto= off or does not do what you might expect. otherwise, the pitot heat warning would only be required if something else in the system had failed and I'm not sure such failures have been modelled yet. Edit: or maybe the warning in the title is a combined warning and it is flicking the adjacent eng heat switch that turns it off?

If you have Windows 10, make sure that you have selected your headset as the audio output device as it sounds like you have your speakers selected. Probably the easiest way is to use the tray selection tool.