Darrylx444

Here is the official forum source for it: https://community.openmr.ai/t/pitool-1-0-1-262-july-20-2020/29625 Yes, for fair testing I disabled smart-smoothing first, so I wouldn't just get fps-capped at 60 (in 120Hz mode). Oddly, it seemed a bit less smooth when I re-enabled sm-sm later on, but I didn't restart the game (or Pitool) immediately so it could have been due to that. Or possibly the random mission I was messing with by that time. I used a simple 4-plane / no ground unit mission for testing originally.

FYI, the brand-new Pitool v262 gives a huge 30% fps boost in DCS World (and other sims) compared to v260/261. Remember to uninstall the previous version first, and also I had to install the new one as administrator or else it failed. I was already using FW v264, which I had from last month. YMMV, but I was totally blown away by the change.

Thanks for the reply. To clarify: my 2nd question was about the base stations, not the HMD. The FOV of the 2.0 base station is a bit wider than 1.0 from what I heard, hence room coverage may be larger, or possibly better occlusion resistance or something? But I assumed that wouldn't really matter for seated use (i.e. not moving around the room). Has anybody tried both 1.0 and 2.0?

Q: Pimax HMDs work with either the original (SteamVR 1.0) or latest (SteamVR 2.0) base stations, correct? Q: Is there any noticeable difference in performance between those 2 devices when using them? I believe the FOV is a bit wider now, but for seated-only could I even tell?

Gazelle cannon gun-sight is borken, it shoots WAYYY to the right now in latest update. Normally I don't fly it anyway, but I just tried yesterday. Anyone else?

OK thanks. How do I do backup my SS/SM settings then?

Andre, my SimShaker + SM updated automatically today. It works, but somehow reset all my effect settings for all my DCS modules to default 50% level and selected to enabled. Is this typical? As in, I will have to re-program ALL my settings each time there is an update? Not the end of the world of course, but I would prefer not to have to do all that each time. This is my first update.

mibo, you shouldn't be actually "hearing" any of the Simshaker sound files in game. They are only for vibrating your transducer, so yes they would sound funny if played on your speakers. Make sure you select the correct sound card as the SS input. And that your game sounds are all you hear on your speakers/ headphones.

Glad it worked for you. Vsync actually doesn't seem to affect VR for my system, but I have read several times that others shared your experience. C'est la vie, I guess?

darkman222, I still haven't received the Pimax I ordered yet, so please pardon my lack of direct experience to share. That said, could it be that you have Vsync turned on in DCS or else in Nvidia Control Panel / Inspector? Just the 60 fps cap number reminds me of that. Hope it helps, good luck!

Just ordered the Artisan (similar to 5K+ on normal fov mode, I think?). Anybody out there running a Pimax HMD with similar PC specs as me (GTX 1080, see sig below)? If so, any tips on settings would be appreciated.

Pimax announced the Artisan HMD is now for sale starting at $CAD600 ($USD450), with deliveries expected to start in a few weeks. 1700x1440 pixels per eye, 140 degree horizontal FOV, up to 120 Hz, LCD, built-in SteamVR/Vive/Index type tracking support (stations extra, hand controllers extra). An optional more expensive version includes ear-cup type speakers, and a stick-on NOLO VR 6DOF tracking system. So, if I understand correctly: Pimax Artisan has slightly more resolution than the Valve Index, but with both displays turned sideways for a wider FOV, at a price that is 10% less expensive but without a copy of Half-Life Alyx. And with simple head straps and no speakers instead of a nice integrated audio strap like the Index. I can currently run my CV1 at 180% PD with decent 45fps ASW in DCS most of the time, so I suppose I could run the extra 80% more pixels in the Artisan at 100% PD instead. Or is that merely due to native Oculus support in DCS? Comments?

1) Congrats on the good upgrade! I enjoy mine too! 2) Happy to hear you found it no problem. But if you had not discovered his video that way (via purchase page link, buried 4 pages down for the NA site on my PC), but rather via YouTube search for example (maybe even it was a gift?), then you would have no idea who he is or if his instructions should be trusted. Unlike all of VKB's other videos that have their logo and reside on their own YT channel too. That's all I was saying. 3) I just hope everybody finds Taraparaptar's excellent instruction video for this product, and knows it is the real deal.

OK, well that seems a bit dramatic. I think you perhaps you misunderstood me? I just suggested that if you are going to expect your customers to perform detailed internal work on your product using a retrofit kit that they purchased from you, then it might be a good idea to provide some kind of official instructions (video or otherwise) that are easily identifiable as being from VKB, or at least approved by VKB. Mainly to avoid potential situations where somebody has to go searching and finds incorrect (or out-of-date) un-official information resulting in mistakes / damage. I don't see how that could possibly hurt your relationship with community supporters, nor would I want that. I really don't care who actually makes VKB instruction videos - it's great if a volunteer does that. Just that it should be easy to tell that they are from VKB, exactly like all of your other videos (but not true in this one particular case, for whatever reason). Actually, in this way, VKB is already "approving" Tarapatraptar's other videos that reside on VKB's YT channel. From your customer's perspective, those videos are provided by / authorized by VKB. Feel free to ignore my suggestion if you wish, but it is offered in the spirit of constructive criticism along with my other positive feedback previously provided, as a repeat VKB customer.

Aha, OK! That's still odd. I wonder why he put just that one on his own private channel instead of with all the other official VKB videos. And without any logos or links to or from the official channel. Seems like customers would like to be assured that the technical information is authentic and approved by the company, rather than just some random user's best guess. In any case, the information was good - it works!

Hmmm....I never scrolled down that far! That YouTube video is actually the same one I found by searching on YouTube. It was not made by VKB, but by a private user account named Tarapatraptar. No company info was provided by that user. VKB should at least include a pdf file link on or in the box, or maybe they should have a YT channel like other companies do. <edit: I just found VKB DOES actually have a YT channel called "VKB Sim", but sadly no instructions for this product there, nor a link to that user's video> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAIB6Y3RLKEpanqiPv62fkA/videos

Thanks to ED, for hot-fixing that so quick. My Xmas wish-list includes: Combined Arms VR visual compatibility fix. This seems long overdue to me. Also at the same time, maybe some improved HOTAS integration for CA ground vehicles. So you don't still have to use the mouse itself (or that awkward mouse control mode thing) to aim while driving in isometric view. I hope and wish that this module could be a lot of fun in VR, without too much extra work by ED (I think). Can you imagine the PVP VR Tank/SPAA/SAM battles online? It would be like a whole new game, that basically already exists (almost). The untapped potential - I'm excited to find out!

Follow up to my last post (above): My SCG premium retrofit kit is now installed on my old Gladiator II. There are ZERO instructions included in the kit, but I found a few user videos on YT that helped me thru the moderately involved process of taking my entire stick gimbal apart and flashing the FW. Not as big an issue if you have the GII Pro version with detachable grip I guess. Initial impressions: Really, really good overall. More buttons and hats = huge benefit in complex modules such as A-10C, F-16, etc. Unexpectedly, I think the stick motion around the center is actually smoother now too, with the new gimbal-stick internals. Very happy with the purchase. Some minor improvement suggestions: I have normal-large hands, and find the grip just a tiny bit restrictive / too small for me. Nowhere near enough to return it, but I just wish there was another 1/4 inch of space between the trigger and permanent hand-rest. I cannot imagine anyone actually needing the nice extra bolt-on hand-rest raising pads, unless they have exceptionally small hands. I do like the fact that this SCG grip is much smaller (and lighter?) than the MCG grip, because I have (and prefer) a side-stick setup, and so don't want a lot of movement like you might for a between-the-legs setup. The inner end of the new gimbal adapter drags a tiny bit against the original gimbal axis due to a slight interference fit (just a hair too long). Not enough to cause any functional problem, but enough to hear and feel unwanted minor scraping in normal use. I tried adding some lube there but it didn't fix it. Annoying at first, but I am used to it now. Also, the twist axis is very stiff at center, but that is a good thing for me because I don't use it and don't want it moving accidently. I think it can be locked up with a screw, but haven't found the need to do so thus far.

I get the same CTDs as everybody else, I guess. #metoo :-(

Immediately Post-Update today: The game crashes to desktop almost every time I try to jump into a plane on any missions I usually fly, the same missions that worked fine just 2 hours ago (pre-update). Already verified Steam files without needing to. Anybody else got this too?

It really makes a HUGE difference, although now I want to do it to all the other sound effects too ;-) What I THINK is happening is that some of the original effects are just too weak for my particular hardware AT THE ORIGINAL FREQUENCY. So when I raise the volume (in software or windows) it gets a little stronger at first, until I reach some kind of physical limit for that particular frequency, and then it just cuts off to zero shaking if I raise the volume any higher. Changing the sound file frequency allows the volume (and shaking) to go much higher. I wonder if it would be useful for other "bass shaker" people to determine their own strongest (aka natural) frequency? It would be interesting to know what results most people get, and with what hardware. And then ideally if Andre (or somebody) could provide a complete downloadable folder of replacement sound files centered on each frequency (within reasonable limits according to the survey), so that everyone could optimize ALL their effects to match their exact hardware and mounting. I still can't believe how strong my A-10C gun shake is now. Awesome!

As a workaround to my weak/inconsistent gun effects, I have been experimenting with replacement .wav files for those sounds today. First I went to this site to find out what frequency gives the most shake for my hardware via PC sound: Turns out it is about 35 Hz for me. NOTE: it changed a bit lower when I remounted my shaker using different standoffs. So next I went to this site to create a 35 Hz .wav file: http://onlinetonegenerator.com/ Then, I edited that .wav file in Vegas (or whatever) in order to increase the amplitude/volume, although as it turns out that may have been overkill. Swapping the new .wav file for the originall A-10C file (as listed in the test section), now I am getting some serious BRRRRRT. AND it never cuts out prematurely like it used to do. Until I run out of ammo, LOL :-)

OK, here are my settings:

I can sort of prevent it by increasing the "limiting compressor" setting to maximum (1.5). But then I get an unimpressive shake when I fire, being much less than I can get from just my game sounds if I turn them way up.

No freezing of either SSSM nor DCS etc. It doesn't seem to affect any other effects AFAIK. I can also reproduce the issue within the test button sometimes. Sometimes it almost seems like it launches the effect but runs out of energy. I can often feel a few weak clicks (echos?) several seconds later after it fails. My shaker works perfectly with my PC sounds coming via "Stereo Mixer" in Windows. And the issue persists even if I mute those. One other other thing: I am using the sub output of my 2.1 amp. Should I try the L/R outputs instead? Actually, I do have a second shaker (backup/not installed) so I could use both I guess. EDIT: Yes, it does also affect some other effects - just found.