Karon

If they are in the axis section well, you need to bind them to axis. The OP is loooking for the equivalent but for the keyboard; it's the other way around.

There are a number of key assignment that are missing at the moment, especially some knobs in the RIO seat. Having some "prev/next" functions would be a massive QoL improvement.

r/InclusiveOr/ ? :D

Late to the party (you've already have plenty of advices) but I'll throw my 2 cents: I have every RW except for the Huey and definitely the module I recommend is the Ka-50. Extremely easy to fly, very simple yet quite advanced avionics (you can easily play as JTAC). Try to master the trimmer and the APs - it won't take more than a couple weeks - then you're going to have in your hands a very capable attack helicopter. It's only problem? Pilot workload: handling radios, scanning for targets and threats while also flying can become a bit stressful in some situations. The Mi-8 is quite neat as well. Less capable but a lot of fun anyway both as transport and as S-8 boat. Unfortunately rockets are underwelming due to the old as known issues.. It has one of the beast FM in DCS and it will give you the best RW experience. SA-342. Lots of people complain about the FM, some others love it. Whatever you do, it's a good addition to the Ka-50 imo since it provides what the Shark lacks: RWR and FLIR. I personally don't like it much it doesn't offer as much as the Mi-8 or the Ka-50. So, back to your questions: the Mi-8 definitely satisfies both but the Ka-50 is much more newbie-friendly. If I were you, I'd go for one of these two.

Errr.. nope, it's still a brilliant idea. You solution works but you have to use divert an input pin/matrix point (nope), add more hardware (let's increase the price of the throttle a bit more, shall we?) and it's potentially annoying to bind depending on how it is implemented. How on earth do you close the cover too slowly? There's a bloody spring there, just push the cover a bit down until the spring kicks in and does the job. That's of course, unless you are closing it slowly on purpose or it's defective. If you are unhappy about that switch cover you can: - return the throttle; - get a file or cutters and mod the cover so it doens't push down the switch. Maybe someone sells something similar already, it should take a couple minutes, probably less.

Nope, it's a brilliant idea. The reasoning is that some of the Master Arms have protective covers (F-14 for instance). Virpil's implementations allow you to bind the cover to the switch-down position so when you lift the RL cover, the in-game one is lifted as well. Otherwise you need an additional dedicated button to lift the cover, which is bloody annoying. I use that switch for the Gear so when the RL cover is down, the gear is up and safely locked. You can use the same principle for any system or function that should be used only in some specific conditions.

I used a CH Pro Throttle for 10+ years before getting a Virpil last August. I personally prefer the Virpil: the ministick on my CH progressively lost precision after 2-3 years and I eventually dropped it entirely; ending up using the POV for the Shkval. I find the 5-way on the Virpil throttle quite precise and the pushbutton doens't interfere in any way with the movement, which is a great thing. After experiencing Warthog, TWCS and CH, Virpil's solution is the one I'm happier with.

Yep, they are updating it. The F/A-18 is coming along quite nicely.. ..Oh you meant the Ka-50? Sorry, no love for us old RW yet :noexpression:

Amazing! Great job guys, looks like we're gonna have a lot of fun back there!

I haven't posted recently because there hasn't been many arduino updates (although I'm planning a box for the F-14). Setup-wise, I have added the 3rd MFD and the 7" display works really well!

I have BS1, Upgrade and BS2 (I don't like DVDs..). IIRC A-10C and Ka-50 could fly with BS1, I think the upgrade was needed once FC2 and DCS Wold were released in order to make the whole lot compatible together. I may be wrong, it was a decade ago. That being said, I bought BS1 on the day one and it's still the only module I fly regularly. BS doens't sport Kamov's logo anymore since the Upgrade; so I guess ED can take a bit more freedom about what they do with it. Therefore I'm happy to pay for a BS3 if it contains different versions of the Shark as well (I don't really care about textures and lighting, it's still usable) such as the Ka-50N or Ka-50Sh. Unfortunately the Ka-50 is the only attack helicopter in DCS and both Mi-24P and AH-1whatever will be completely outclassed by it, pilot workload aside (it's still good to have 2 pilots, just to share radio comms and management and SA) hence an updated Shark would be great.

Alright, I finally managed to test for longer than 5 minutes and I must say it's definitely better. Thanks Cyph3r!

I have set "Dynamic (1/10)%" to 5%. I use the axis as zoom, so I don't really case about having a perfectly correct read; I'd rather have it stable. I'm going to try it ASAP and come back with a feedback. Thanks Cyph3r :) It's not a matter of pots (not entrirely). I can show you the values read by the analog pins of the same ATmega32U4 I use on my control boxes and those values are usually unstable (many reasons, from the lack of precision bit-wise to electronical inferences). As I said, you always have to interpolate those values in order to provide a stable output. Acutally, if you look at the values read by the hall sensors, they too are "unstable" and it's not because of Virpil (of course quality and eletrotechnical design matters); it's totally normal. The fact that you don't notice on other products is simply because they already interpolate the numbers from the factory. It's an option but not worth the effort in my case. Pots are not a bad solution per se, issues come on the long-term (I bought my CH stuff 15-16 years ago and they still work fine).

Have you worked with potentiometers and resistors on a PIC? I guess no. Via firmware you can do almost whatever you want, in this case interpolate the values read by the input pins in order to smooth the HID output. In fact, here comes the cavalry! I'm afraid I won't be able to test the setting for a while due to the holidays. If I manage I will update you, @Cyph3r.

I followed your input and updated the firmware. Something has changed but slightly, the jitter is still there. I will play with the settings a bit when I have some spare time and see what happens (for instance, I haven't checked if the axis settings have been overwritten by the firmware update).

"Good" to see that I'm not the only one. I'm quite sure they can smooth the pots reading via firmware. Let's see if @mithandra gets an answer from the support.

No. Windows' calibration tool is a big no-go for Virpil stuff. I have used it more than one year ago when I got the T-50 but later I had to fix the curves with DxTweak. There's no point nowadays. @mithandra: nice, keep me posted mate :)

It behaves in the same way wherever I try. I have been one of the first to receive the throttle; I recorded three months ago and the jitter is clearly visible at 2'32". I remember that at least a couple other people had the same issue (I don't remember if I met them here, on reddit, or somewhere else though) so I was wondering if someone has fixed it.

It's not a big deal per se since I use it for the zoom. It's just that sometimes it starts moving by itself, shaking the view as if I were entering VRS. Scary stuff sometimes. @Seb: I've already maxed the smoothing but it doens't really seem to help. Oh well, I'm afraid I had to write support again..

SOLVED! solution here: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3725345&postcount=17 /***********************************************************************/ The index-finger rotary axis on my throttle has jittering problems, I've noticed that issue immediately but lately it's gotten a bit worse. I've tinkered with the software a bit but so far no luck. Has anyone found a way to fix this issue? The ideal solution would be an interpolation of the readings from the potentiometer, to cut the input spikes. Deadzones and curves don't really work.

Great streaming, can wait for the release! The chat was cancerous though, people complaining all the time about everything: missed refueling, VR, comms, CAS, landing. Next time disable it (if it's possible) and use reddit / normal posts for Q&A.

You might have missed Essah's post then.. Steam Overlay can be used with standalone as well; with any game actually, I used to use it to take screenshots and upload them. I am usually a big fan of Steam but DCS is the exception. With the stand alone, on top of the reasons Essah has mentioned, there's more flexibility as well: you can fork, split and move DCS around, very handy to maintain different versions of DCS. For instance, you can just between OB and stable with a line in the console or have different OB branches is case your group doesn't update as soon as the patch is available (whereas usually online server are almost always up to date). The only reason for using Steam might be the download speed but it's usually not a big issue.

With arduino you can do almost whatever you want, since you write the code.

Well, the UFC provides as many buttons as the radio box + the column. I guess it happens when you are constantly learning and improving. Looking back, I'd have built a single box out of them and replaced the column apart and replace it with the 3rd MFD (the only reason why I don't do that is because I find the F/A-18 almost as boring as the F-16 so, nope, I'd rather keep ). I also did some math though and if the Harrier didn't have crap luas I could easily run out of buttons. Same as the Hip with NS430. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of being a home-owner, so I build different things and use whatever better fits in the particular module I'm flying at that time.

Quick update: UFC done but I'm already planning to expand my setup. I've found a 7" 800x600 LCD monitor and I plan to use it for the Shkval. This is the current status of my setup: I'm quite happy about the UFC, I don't care about the F/A-18 but I can now easily control both the PVI-800 and the ABRIS and, by toggling the master mode, easily use the PRTz. I am now posting most of the stuff on my blog here: https://karons.home.blog/ The step by step guide to build a Control Box based on Arduino is almost done.