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Lynx Cockpit Utility Brick "Button box"


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I think that is probably ok. I thought at first that everything on the side panels (left and right sides of the cockpit) were all flat. I see that the panel that goes in front of the throttle slopes down to the throttle a little, which is what I was looking for. Plus, if you design/make the CUBs able to connect like that, it doesn't take too much to adapt to that design and help them tilt a little more if you need it.

 

It is really hard to find a good profile picture of the side panels (or at least my google skills are not up to the challenge) :-)

Fridge

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Things which do you no good in aviation:

1) Altitude above you;

2) Runway behind you;

3) Fuel in the truck;

4) The airspeed you don't have.

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I think that is probably ok. I thought at first that everything on the side panels (left and right sides of the cockpit) were all flat. I see that the panel that goes in front of the throttle slopes down to the throttle a little, which is what I was looking for. Plus, if you design/make the CUBs able to connect like that, it doesn't take too much to adapt to that design and help them tilt a little more if you need it.

 

It is really hard to find a good profile picture of the side panels (or at least my google skills are not up to the challenge) :-)

 

The outer Row of panels tilts 16.5 Degrees up to the side.

and the Front inner Panels tilts 14 degrees up to the front.

 

In the picture below which is the left side, the Throttle also tilts up.. if someone want it... i could make a connection for the CUB that makes the throttle tilt also.

 

 

post-21792-1201960552.jpg

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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That is true and a cool idea. I was thinking more of the panel that sits in front of the throttle (with the knobs on it). I think it slopes up a little more than the throttle.

 

But either way, options are good. I wouldn't stress or delay anything because of this :-)

Fridge

----------

Things which do you no good in aviation:

1) Altitude above you;

2) Runway behind you;

3) Fuel in the truck;

4) The airspeed you don't have.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all.

 

Here is a little information.

 

We are laying the final work in the Firmware programming. Which will be version 1.0 , and will be loaded in the first units we send out.

 

This firmware makes it possible to make the Toggle switches, ON-ON switches that send 2 different switch impules to the game when you turn it on and off. But of course also chose the switch to send the same switch pulse when turned on as when turned off.

 

The same thing can be programmed for the ON-OFF-ON Switches, so you can send a unique impuls to the game in each position, so it will work as a ON-ON-ON, which is what is needed for the A-10C AHCP panel fx.

 

The ON-OFF-ON whitches can also work as normal, like 2 switch positions, and 1 Off.

 

We have chosen to remove the Holding switch function, which makes the switch active until its turned off, this is because we didnt see the need of it, as all games supports key presses, and thats simular to joystick presses.

However, if someone really would want the holding function, we can easily provide a firmware update that gives you that function.

 

As a final option for these CUB's, we make it possible for people to program individual switches to be On-Off and On-On, like the On-Off-On to be On-On-On, so you can choose a single switch to function as a On-On, and the rest as Normal toggle switches.

We have made it possible to save 4 configurations in the CUB, so you can switch the configurations depending on what you play or use it for. And that can be switches very easily by holding down the 2 Push Buttons for 5 seconds.

 

All these functions should rule out the need for any third part software, to manage the switch on and off functions.

 

This is it for now, we are sending the first order very soon, we just need to get this Firmware complete ready before loading them in and packing them up :)


Edited by LynxDK

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LynxDK

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Happy New Year Everyone.

 

Because you can choose to buy Backplate and Panels alone, and make your own "button Box" or panel setup, or simply want the same functions for your home setup without buying the CUB, We of course release the Firmware Code with all the functions it has.

 

the Code is free for anyone to edit to suit their needs, and if you guys make a new version of the code that you think other should benefit from, we can easily put it for download on our website.

 

The CUB1 Code is available for downloade here: http://lynx.dk/cub-firmware/

 

And a guide to install also follows.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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A very Happy New Year to you as well. Very gracious of you to release your software.

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PC: Intel i7-8700K (4.9 GHz), Aorus Ultra Gaming Z370 MB, Gigabyte RTX 3080, 32 GB DDR3 (3,2 GHz), Samsung EVO 860 M.2 500 GB SSD + Samsung 960 M.2 250 GB SSD Gaming: Virpil T-50 CM2, TM WH Throttle, Crosswind pedals, HP Reverb

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys.

 

Its been some time since the last post, but things are very busy here, and more will come soon.

 

For those who are interested, there is a guide on how to program the unit here:

 

http://lynx.dk/cub-1-programming-guide/

 

And as a little Update, you will soon see a new generation Panels from me, where the Engravings are White, and not the grayish look they have now...

 

The difference can be seen here, the new type to the left:

panels.jpg

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Hey Lynx - congrats on those panels it's just mouth watering to look at the sheer quality of it.

I appreciate you may not want to share all your tricks of the trade, but I'm extremely curious.

What is the technique to get these white characters, i.e. how do you get the engravings to be so high-contrast white while at the same time having them be translucent for the backlight?

Feel free to PM me. Cheers

There is no spoon.

 

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  • 3 months later...
Hey Lynx - congrats on those panels it's just mouth watering to look at the sheer quality of it.

I appreciate you may not want to share all your tricks of the trade, but I'm extremely curious.

What is the technique to get these white characters, i.e. how do you get the engravings to be so high-contrast white while at the same time having them be translucent for the backlight?

Feel free to PM me. Cheers

 

 

Hey Hollywood, im sorry i havent answered you before, but i have been extremely busy.

 

Thank you for the nice words, i try to make things the best way possible :)

 

The first panels i made where made from Opaque Acrylic, and that gives the engraving the greysh look when you looking at them, ans since they are translucent, they let enough light through , that when backlight is on, they look really great.

 

The way i make my panels now, with the white Engravings are another technique that im not too happy to just reveal, and that is simply because i have used alot of acrylic and money, and time to find a solution, that would fit my needs.

 

But you can make the white engravings by using a Clear 6mm Acrylic sheet, and then paint it white, and then black ontop. Then you need a really good laser engraver, to only burn away the black painted layer and down to the white paint, to get the nice white engravings, of course if you have a good CNC that can do that too :)

 

However i am not using that method, im constructing my own sheet material that suit my needs for all my panels, but they are also painted white and black, and then im using CNC to engrave, simply because i find the letters more crisp looking when the paint are cut, instead of burned... its like the edge are more clean. Of course thats only my opinion :)

 

Another cheaper way to obtain the white lettering, is by using 5mm White Acrylic sheets. Alot of the panels that you can buy especially for the Boeing are made using this technique. But first of all they are only 5mm, where the original panels are 6mm, second.. the white acrylic are not letting much light through, which means the need ALOT of LED's to get good looking backlight, its not impossible tho, i have seen it done, but it requires that the LED strips are plastered together underneath, or it simply dosnt get enough light through.

 

Then there are the layers way of doing things, where people stack multiple layers of acrylic to get the height. The good thing about this method is that you can accualy make some good looking panels, however, the painted edges will with time look worn and then backlight will shine through.

The best way of doing this in my opinion, to get the best result, and keep the 6mm thickness, is by using 2 layers, 1x 3mm clear acrylic, and 1x 3mm white acrylic. Then you can cut them and stack them, and leave out the paint for the bottom, so the light can shine through. The good thing about this is that you can cut them with a cheap laser, and the make room for the Switch nut in the lower 3mm and then only having the switch stick up in the top 3mm. And then you can engrave the top throught the black paint and get nice white engraving because the top layers is solid white color.

It will still take a few more LED to backlit this, but it wont be as bad as for the 5mm.

 

Hope this helped a little, if you have any other, or more questions.... dont hold back :)


Edited by LynxDK
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Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Hey Hollywood, im sorry i havent answered you before, but i have been extremely busy.

 

Thank you for the nice words, i try to make things the best way possible :)

 

The first panels i made where made from Opaque Acrylic, and that gives the engraving the greysh look when you looking at them, ans since they are translucent, they let enough light through , that when backlight is on, they look really great.

 

The way i make my panels now, with the white Engravings are another technique that im not too happy to just reveal, and that is simply because i have used alot of acrylic and money, and time to find a solution, that would fit my needs.

 

But you can make the white engravings by using a Clear 6mm Acrylic sheet, and then paint it white, and then black ontop. Then you need a really good laser engraver, to only burn away the black painted layer and down to the white paint, to get the nice white engravings, of course if you have a good CNC that can do that too :)

 

However i am not using that method, im constructing my own sheet material that suit my needs for all my panels, but they are also painted white and black, and then im using CNC to engrave, simply because i find the letters more crisp looking when the paint are cut, instead of burned... its like the edge are more clean. Of course thats only my opinion :)

 

Another cheaper way to obtain the white lettering, is by using 5mm White Acrylic sheets. Alot of the panels that you can buy especially for the Boeing are made using this technique. But first of all they are only 5mm, where the original panels are 6mm, second.. the white acrylic are not letting much light through, which means the need ALOT of LED's to get good looking backlight, its not impossible tho, i have seen it done, but it requires that the LED strips are plastered together underneath, or it simply dosnt get enough light through.

 

Then there are the layers way of doing things, where people stack multiple layers of acrylic to get the height. The good thing about this method is that you can accualy make some good looking panels, however, the painted edges will with time look worn and then backlight will shine through.

The best way of doing this in my opinion, to get the best result, and keep the 6mm thickness, is by using 2 layers, 1x 3mm clear acrylic, and 1x 3mm white acrylic. Then you can cut them and stack them, and leave out the paint for the bottom, so the light can shine through. The good thing about this is that you can cut them with a cheap laser, and the make room for the Switch nut in the lower 3mm and then only having the switch stick up in the top 3mm. And then you can engrave the top throught the black paint and get nice white engraving because the top layers is solid white color.

It will still take a few more LED to backlit this, but it wont be as bad as for the 5mm.

 

Hope this helped a little, if you have any other, or more questions.... dont hold back :)

 

These things for sale? Nice site btw

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  • 1 month later...

Now that the new Panel type have been sorted, its time to show you guys some pictures, and tell you a little about the improvements we have made to the CUB1.

 

Due to the new way we are making panels, we have also changed the Backplate on the unit to a clear acrylic piece, instead of the old Opaque backplate.

That is mainly because we wanted to let more light through so we where sure that we could lit up the edges without any problems. However, it turned out that the difference is allmost not noticeable, so those who have bought the CUB with the old Opaque Backplate dont have to worry, the new panels will be lit up just fine :)

 

Here you see a picture of the CUB as it looks like now.

new_cub1.JPG

 

Now i will show the some of the Panels that have been improved, including a English Version of the MIG Panel, the Finished Looks of the Huey Panels, and a new Ka50 Panel set.

Also further down i will post a couple of Custom Panels that have been ordered.

 

A-10C Startup Panel:

new_cub1_a10c.JPG

 

new_cub1_a10c_backlight.JPG

 

MIG English version:

 

new_cub1_mig_eng.JPG

 

new_cub1_mig_eng_backlight.JPG

 

And with the Gray Overlay:

 

new_cub1_mig_eng_overlay.JPG

 

Huey:

 

new_cub1_huey.JPG

 

new_cub1_huey_backlight.JPG

 

KA50:

 

new_cub1_ka50.JPG

 

new_cub1_ka50_backlight.JPG

 

And Of Course i can make a Gray overlay for the KA50 if someone wishes :)

 

Here under we have a couple of Custom panels:

 

A-10C Custom:

 

cub1_a10c_custom.JPG

 

cub1_a10c_custom_backlight.JPG

 

And a set of General Flight Panels:

 

cub1_custom.JPG

 

cub1_custom_backlight.JPG

 

That was it for now, the new panels will soon be added to the store.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Hello Lynx

 

I am always very excited to see you go ahead with your ideas and projects. Can't wait you start production with CUB 2 with rotaries as well as the UFC and CDU for the A-10C. Hope you also have some ideas for the hornet as well :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Weasel

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Hello Lynx

 

I am always very excited to see you go ahead with your ideas and projects. Can't wait you start production with CUB 2 with rotaries as well as the UFC and CDU for the A-10C. Hope you also have some ideas for the hornet as well :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Weasel

 

Thank you. When you say ideas for the Hornet, do you then mean Entire Cockpit Panels, or simply CUB Panels that have Hornet engravings?

If someone where to design Hornet Panels for the CUB, they would be most welcome :)

 

G´day Lynx,

 

great progress! Really like your stuff.

Just wondering if you still plan to offer the DIY Button boxes or if this is off the table.

 

The DIY CUB is still in the works, we had to change some stuff, and also make a good Manual for the assembly. The problem is time :)

I also still have your Radio CUB on the Drawing board, that one is one of the more complicated, but we are making progress there too :)

 

I also know that many people are waiting for the Dimmer Module and some of the other stuff for the CUB, and we are working as fast as we can :)

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Thank you. When you say ideas for the Hornet, do you then mean Entire Cockpit Panels, or simply CUB Panels that have Hornet engravings?

If someone where to design Hornet Panels for the CUB, they would be most welcome

 

Well I thougt on an UFC for the hornet as well as Entire Cockpit Panels. The CUB I will definitely buy and I also hope there will be some CUB Panels soon.

 

It makes much more fun flying the jets with some aditional hardware ;)

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  • 6 months later...
Has anyone ordered anything from this site recently?

 

 

Well for me (european) its 320 Euro's incl taxes and without shipping.

That is a bit steep for a plastic box with switches.

 

Now don't get me wrong i think it is a great development but ill wait for the chinese version :D

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