"DCS STOPPED RESPONDING"

[ENO]

Seems that cpu voltage was set @ "auto" as well ?

 

Can't run 4,5 ghz on 1.0 Volts ... Running prime now.

 

It's running quite hot already though, 8 threads , 1.25 Vcore, blend test , 78 degrees celcius on core 1 , hmm only been running for 5 minutes.

 

*edit, temp dropped a bit now, think watercooling fan woke up, 70 degrees now .. looks good

 

Uh- is the stock cooling solution water?

 

To be honest op I'm getting the impression that HT is just being wasted in your applications. Your load temps are drifting towards the high side and it's completely unnecessary for what we're doing right now. Reduces power and actually improves performance as per some stutter / lag threads I've read. Probably drop your temps 10c just by doing that.

 

Are you running an h100 /h70 corsair style water solution or a custom water block / rad etc. reflecting on your temps / water are you blowing warm case air through your rad (whatever it is) or outside air?

[SkateZilla]

should NOT be at 76°C with any type of Water cooling at 1200mv.

 

I Suggest you check your Pump and make sure the water block is mounted correctly

[Maximus_Lazarus]

No corsair H80i

[Wolf Rider]

 

I7 3770K

GTX 680's (sli)

8 GB of RAM

Samsung 840 (something) SSD

 

~

 

 

 

what Op. Sys. and motherboard are you running?

 

I had an H80i and the thing died on me, after many months of it running just fine... the pump just went and seized up one afternoon

 

Set your Page File to System Managed and be done with it

Edited July 6, 2014 by Wolf Rider

[Maximus_Lazarus]

yeah the LED already crapped out on me. Funny that you would mention that :D

 

The pump must still be working, because when i stop the workload the temperature drops 40 degrees in a matter of 1 or 2 seconds.

 

Windows 7 , and Asrock z77 extreme 4

 

These chips are quite notorious for heat. Apparently intel used some crappy blob of thick cool paste between the actual chip and the lid. There's too much room between the cpu and the lid. Taking the top off the chip usually saves about 20 degrees celcius it seems.

 

But, delidding , seems like risky business:

Edited July 6, 2014 by Maximus_Lazarus

[Wolf Rider]

I thought it would be a z77 chipset... that chipset was an unstable release that Intel should never have proceeded with. That why your BIOS settings are changing (by what you seem to have said) by itself. (For instance, the last Intel BIOS upgrade was May 2013... to give you an idea)

That chipset, you need to run in its factory default state. The memory setting are safe to modify, if using XMP. (setting the main four settings and correct voltage)

 

If you're running Lucid Virtu - don't run it with DCS, they don't play nice together

Edited July 6, 2014 by Wolf Rider

[BitMaster]

I have 2 friends that didn't listen and got themselves an Asrock board instead of a solid Asus one.

 

They both have BSODs, crashes etc... never found the problem, both Z77 chipsets .

 

 

Also, just put a H97 for a friend together: i7 4GHz ( stock ), 16GB, Asus mobo, 780GTX, 256GB Samsung Pro SSD... and heck...I had to test DCS with it. Amazing FPS and ultra quiet with stock coolers, and all of the numerous extra fans turned off for DCS, almost impossible to hear.

 

That thing goes up to 4.4GHz by itself..no need to OC anything

 

 

Hope your fiddling powers were successful ;)

 

Bit

[lanmancz]

Also, just put a H97 for a friend together

 

I'm sorry for being a bit OT here but this caught my attention because I'm doing exactly the same thing at this very moment. Why would you not go for Z97 instead ? To me it seems like a better choice for gaming PC mainly because of the CPU OC support.

[BitMaster]

I'm sorry for being a bit OT here but this caught my attention because I'm doing exactly the same thing at this very moment. Why would you not go for Z97 instead ? To me it seems like a better choice for gaming PC mainly because of the CPU OC support.

 

Well, simple reason, my friend didn't listen to what I recommended and money was on a budget too, thats why he settled with the H97. If it was my machine, I would have gotten the Workstation Edition with Dual LAN for VMware scenarios etc...

 

Also, he does not want to OC at all and stayed with the stock Intel CPU cooler.

 

With an i7-4790K @ 4GHz stock and 4.4GHz Auto-Overclock... I see no reason to stress the components, at least not for DCS in its current stage w/o EDGE.

 

With a single 780GTX he had plenty FPS with all on High. I took the P-51 for a Spin and it was smooth down to the bone. Even when I shattered into the city and the fuselage tossed through the streets it stayed well above what I consider minimum FPS for decent gameplay.

 

Anyway, with EDGE things hopefully change for the better ( SMP, DX11 etc.. ).

 

I would maybe consider WC but not for the reason of OCing but for the quietness, but honestly, I was astound how LOW NOISE this rig was with a GTX 780, Palit Super JetStream Model.

My girl said she can't hear it AND THAT IS WHAT COUNTS WHEN U GAME IN THE LIVINGROOM ;)

 

Bit

[SkateZilla]

I have 2 friends that didn't listen and got themselves an Asrock board instead of a solid Asus one.

 

They both have BSODs, crashes etc... never found the problem, both Z77 chipsets .

 

 

Also, just put a H97 for a friend together: i7 4GHz ( stock ), 16GB, Asus mobo, 780GTX, 256GB Samsung Pro SSD... and heck...I had to test DCS with it. Amazing FPS and ultra quiet with stock coolers, and all of the numerous extra fans turned off for DCS, almost impossible to hear.

 

That thing goes up to 4.4GHz by itself..no need to OC anything

 

 

Hope your fiddling powers were successful ;)

 

Bit

 

I run 3 Top Teir ASRock 990FX Boards with no Problems

990FX- Fatal1ty 990FX Professional

990FX- Fatal1ty 990FX Killer

990FX- 990FX Extreme 9

990FX- 990FX Extreme 4 (Brother's System)

Edited July 6, 2014 by SkateZilla

[SkateZilla]

yeah the LED already crapped out on me. Funny that you would mention that :D

 

The pump must still be working, because when i stop the workload the temperature drops 40 degrees in a matter of 1 or 2 seconds.

 

Windows 7 , and Asrock z77 extreme 4

 

These chips are quite notorious for heat. Apparently intel used some crappy blob of thick cool paste between the actual chip and the lid. There's too much room between the cpu and the lid. Taking the top off the chip usually saves about 20 degrees celcius it seems.

 

But, delidding , seems like risky business:

 

IF the pump isnt working, the water wont flow through the water block, or if the H80 is set to passive mode (which you cant see due to no LEDs), which is slower pumping and lower Fan RPM.

 

CPU will heat up under load, but as soon as you remove the Load, the waterblock can drop the temps rather quickly on it's own.

 

Best best is to feel the hoses and water block and see if they are warm.

 

the LEDs on my H100 went and the pump went pretty quickly after and the result was the same, high load temps, large fluctuations (ie core temps jumping from 13°C to 40°C just by opening browser windows etc. RMA'D my unit replaced and now it sits at 10°C and Max 21°C underload, no fluctuations.

 

I'm prolly gonna look into Replacing it with a unit that I can monitor the Pump

[EtherealN]

A reminder about consumer hardware: that is the lowest tier in the hardware QA ladder. Even "quality" kit doesn't get tested (at component level AND assembly level) as even "standard" industrial kit - since that would raise the cost considerably.

 

Therefore, be careful with drawing conclusions based on a small sample size - no matter what brand, there will be someone, somewhere, that has seen multiple failures on that brand. (Indeed, I've seen people saying pretty much exactly the same about ASUS kit, even ROG-branded kit.) Basically, stuff is unfortunately a bit more complicated than that. And while I am definitely an ASUS fan myself (my main rig is ASUS almost as far as it goes - mobo, sound card, graphics card, my phone/tablet is ASUS, previous tablet was ASUS, previous couple netbooks were ASUS etc), I would not be comfortable making overall quality statements based solely on the experience of myself and my friends. All I can say it works for me, and the prices were right. I do however doubt there is any considerable difference - at least a _predictable_ one, between most manufacturers. If you want to see consistent differences, it is the price segments you want to consider, not really the brand.

 

(Though if you are hardcore, you can always look into the specific caps etc that a _specific_ mobo uses; but don't make the mistake of thinking that mobo X by brand Y uses quality cap Z, therefore ALL mobos by brand Y is of that quality! ALWAYS doublecheck! Because all brands (pretty much) serve all tiers.)

[BitMaster]

A reminder about consumer hardware: that is the lowest tier in the hardware QA ladder. Even "quality" kit doesn't get tested (at component level AND assembly level) as even "standard" industrial kit - since that would raise the cost considerably.

 

Therefore, be careful with drawing conclusions based on a small sample size - no matter what brand, there will be someone, somewhere, that has seen multiple failures on that brand. (Indeed, I've seen people saying pretty much exactly the same about ASUS kit, even ROG-branded kit.) Basically, stuff is unfortunately a bit more complicated than that. And while I am definitely an ASUS fan myself (my main rig is ASUS almost as far as it goes - mobo, sound card, graphics card, my phone/tablet is ASUS, previous tablet was ASUS, previous couple netbooks were ASUS etc), I would not be comfortable making overall quality statements based solely on the experience of myself and my friends. All I can say it works for me, and the prices were right. I do however doubt there is any considerable difference - at least a _predictable_ one, between most manufacturers. If you want to see consistent differences, it is the price segments you want to consider, not really the brand.

 

(Though if you are hardcore, you can always look into the specific caps etc that a _specific_ mobo uses; but don't make the mistake of thinking that mobo X by brand Y uses quality cap Z, therefore ALL mobos by brand Y is of that quality! ALWAYS doublecheck! Because all brands (pretty much) serve all tiers.)

 

 

Absolutely true !

I have had P4/Intel chipset based Asus boards that only made trouble but that applied to all boards of that special chipset/model. In general I trust Asus the most, from like 20 years experience.

Usually, Asus is among the best you can buy IMHO but there are other good brands too.

 

What is also true, I have never seen clear coating being so badly applied to the board as with that Z77 Asrock from my buddy. I have a pile of old Asus boards around, none was coated that bad.

Sometimes you can see where the money didn't go to.

 

Also, there is a reason why most businesses run servers they sell pre-configured for at least 24h full-bore, RAM, CPU and HD-I/O to find any glitches in the quality before you take them to the customer and ask for money. One should do the same with any Gaming PC to exclude faulty HW right away. Well, if the chipset is bad, all mobo will likely have probs, and if the Z77 has a problem

then even Asus can't fix Intel's failures.

[Maximus_Lazarus]

Well, the pump is definately working.

 

As soon as i pull the connector, temps rise to 95 degrees. Had to quickly stop prime or else it would have gone up to who knows

 

Then, i did a windows restore, which screwed EVERYTHIGN up ... And a couple of hours later i'm here again posting about it :noexpression:

 

Maybe i fixed the problem now, who knows , right ?

 

:D

[NineLine]

I feel like I am slowing down to look at an accident on the side of the road with this thread...

[Maximus_Lazarus]

Well, apparently this crashing upon exiting problem is as old as DCS itself , i found out after some googling.

 

Crash on exit in 1.2.7 MP is listed (on Mantis entry #0025351) awaiting fix.

[NineLine]

Well, apparently this crashing upon exiting problem is as old as DCS itself , i found out after some googling.

 

I think you are having a different problem...

[SkateZilla]

Well, the pump is definately working.

 

As soon as i pull the connector, temps rise to 95 degrees. Had to quickly stop prime or else it would have gone up to who knows

:D

 

OK, That proves to me you have no clue what you are doing in the System Maintenance and repair area.

 

you were 7°C away from tjMax and depending on what you messed with in the bios, would have triggered an immediate shutdown, or your chip to catch fire.

 

So again, slap yourself on the wrists, restore BIOS Defaults, make sure HDD Mode is correct. and Leave it alone.

 

This is your problem, you're screwing with crap, and causing physical damage and wear on your components, not to mention the amount of data that's being corrupted.

[ENO]

And then justifying it all by blaming a bug from 127.

 

"Trucks pile up on bridges? Probably need a new SSD!"

[NineLine]

And then justifying it all by blaming a bug from 127.

 

"Trucks pile up on bridges? Probably need a new SSD!"

 

Think that will work with my wife? No... probably not.

[SkateZilla]

Think that will work with my wife? No... probably not.

 

I wonder if that will work for me though..

 

further more, this is no longer a "DCS Bug", this is now a "Tech Support" case, since you cant even get your system stable.

Edited July 7, 2014 by SkateZilla