Take Off in the Bf 109K-4

[nervousenergy]

Yeah, you're not going to get a nice, long, paved jet runway when we get the 44 maps.

[mugen]

Hi,

TO and Landing on "grass" in DCS is a challenge but possible.

You really need to be ahead of your plane.

I wonder if we will get ground waves on grass RW (straight and even grass RW are very rare) with the Normandy Map and how challenging this will get, especially with the Konrad. :joystick:

 

 

greez mugen

GrassStrip02.trk

Edited December 13, 2014 by mugen
updated .trk because of new game update

[Baxter]

Im just curious if anyone else is having this issue.

 

i can not keep the engine from stalling on departure from the cold and dark start mission. i have tried everything from manual prop at 1230 no flap..12 oclock prop and flap and vice versa with a manual prop...1.35 ATA...full power...auto prop...it all ends the same. Engine dies either on the runway or around 200ft agl. But if i try the takeoff mission i can throw anything at the engine and the engine will never seize. Full power does nothing to the engine...but i slowly increase power on the cold and dark mission and no matter what the engine will seize.

 

Ive let the aircraft warm up...ive followed the checklist although brakes alone wont hold at the mentioned run up RPMs. Anyone else experiencing this?

[FoReIgNeR]

There are two main reasons why your engine stalls:

 

1) did you set the rpm governor to auto? If you leave it in manual without changing the set RPM, your engine will over-rev causing it to seize.

 

2) did you set the radiator to auto (or 'auf', open)? Failing to do this will overheat your engine causing it to seize.

[Baxter]

Yes to both...it will stall in auto or manual...radiator set to open or auto...both stall.

[El Hadji]

I had it stall on me earlier today for no obvious reason at level flight 2 mins after takeoff. It happend twice in a row and I triple checked that my settings was OK. I also noted that the RPM's needed to reach 1.35 ATA was higher than normal - approx 2600 rpm instead of 2400. Did the last update change anything here?

[FoReIgNeR]

I made a flight for an hour today with the latest patch, no problems. So you guys have a track (.trk) file which I can inspect?

[NeilWillis]

I had it stall on me earlier today for no obvious reason at level flight 2 mins after takeoff. It happend twice in a row and I triple checked that my settings was OK. I also noted that the RPM's needed to reach 1.35 ATA was higher than normal - approx 2600 rpm instead of 2400. Did the last update change anything here?

 

You'll find the prop pitch is set to manual. Change it to automatic, and it won't happen.

[Derbysieger]

You can also adjust your prop pitch manually to prevent the engine from dying

[El Hadji]

I take off with prop pitch at 12'o clock then switch to automatic as soon as I am airborne. So the pitch was set to automatic when the engine stalled.

[Derbysieger]

Take Off and landing:

[Baxter]

After =FoReIgNeR= posted about temps I figured that was the issue even though on departure my temps were within limits. After careful evaluation it was an overheat issue. But I was using the radiator handle in accordance to the overlay text (or whatever its called, where you hover your mouse on an object and it tells you what it is). This is backwards on the aircraft. I don't know any German and if I move my mouse over ZU it says that is radiator open versus AUF. I still don't know German so is the handle backwards and bugged or just the overlay text? Can someone else confirm this or is it already known?

 

Thanks =FoReIgNeR= for your help.

[FoReIgNeR]

You're welcome =) I will check tonight whether the tool tip is incorrect and report back.

[FoReIgNeR]

Confirmed: Sith, can you pass this on to ED or should I make a bug thread for this?

 

When hovering over radiator 'auf' (open), the tooltip displays 'Radiators close'. When I hover over 'zu' (closed) the tooltip displays 'Radiators open'.

 

EDIT: new thread created for this in the 'bugs and problems' section

Edited December 15, 2014 by =FoReIgNeR=

[shagrat]

Tips and tricks from Yo-Yo !!!

 

I had a little PM chat with Yo-Yo, as he should have the most insight into the do and don'ts of the Bf-109K4.

 

We thought to share his answers here is a good idea, as it happened to have a lot of tips I never read somewhere else.

 

So here the insights from Yo-Yo:

 

"Hi Shagrat,

 

as I could not be more graceful towards Erich Brunotte for showing me the Dora, I had used the same technique he used very succesfully.

 

That's why, trying takeoffs in the FW-190 and Bf-109 I'm also used to set the tailwheel free, like he did.

 

So I can give you directions for both cases - with and without locking the tailwheel.

 

I will refer to Erich's comments in the corresponding places of the text.

 

First of all, I'd like to say that the Bf-109 can take off in any way you like:

- manual low pitch or auto,

- with locked or unlocked tailwheel.

 

The differences are in your inputs and anticipation.

 

If you use auto governor for pitch and 1.3-1.4 ata for T/O the slipstream is more swirled compared to manual and the finest pitch.

 

That's the point. So you have to apply more rudder input especially from the start - up to full rudder (it's wise to push right pedal fully just before you advance the throttle).

 

Using manual pitch you reduce this input.

 

With crosswind or if you have the tailwheel unlocked don't be shy to tap the right wheelbrake if you feel the right pedal is lacking in response - that's exactly what Erich told me.

 

I use 0 deg trim position for most of cases.

 

As you begin to roll hold stick aft - it helps to have more stability from the tailwhell if it's locked.

 

Then, at approx. 100-120 kph place the stick in neutral position and 1-2 diamonds (in the red diagram) right.

 

Use only rudder pedals to stabilize the plane's path until you are at two-point attitude.

During the first part of T/O roll the plane is not stable but well controllable if you use 1.4-1.8 ata.

 

Ok, here is a short checklist:

 

• Flaps - retracted
  
• Propeller pitch auto governor ON
  
• Trim 0
  
• Rudder pedal - full right, if tailwheel locked stick aft to stabilize
  
• Throttle, advance in about one second to 1.35-1.45 ata
  
• Right wheel brake as necessary
  
• Right pedal as necessary to keep the plane straight, but generally release as IAS builds up (anticipation!)
  
• At 100-120 kph stick to neutral and a little bit to the right (two diamonds)
  
• Rudder pedal - stabilize the plane at two points
  
• At 180 -190 kph - gently pull the stick, be ready to counteract pitch-up after takeoff, try to fly low until the speed raises above 220-240 kph, before climbing (Stall!!)
  
• Landing gear up.
  

 

Anticipate and use your instincts while on the ground.

 

Try to start training with 10%-20% of fuel and full ammo for the first T/O and landings.

 

Hope that helps."

 

Thanks to Yo-Yo for the brilliant list... and now I'm trying to get this lovely beast under control!

 

Cheers,

Edited December 14, 2014 by shagrat

[Derbysieger]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing shagrat & Yo-Yo ;)

[shagrat]

Yeah! Now we're talking... Full right rudder, quickly set ata to 1.4 and stick right two diamonds... slowly release rudder a bit when yawing right and push the nose a bit when she feels stable. Then slowly pull and let her gain height and speed... first successful take off, just by following Yo-Yo's advice!

 

Thanks again!

[DB 605]

Here's short TO video with prop set to automatic, trim to zero, no flaps and tailwheel unlocked:

 

[Gascan39]

Nice video, I have been able to takeoff (no flaps, locked tail wheel, 2000-2400 RPM) successfully, and my landings are getting better, though did a nice cart wheel a little bit ago. I can beat up the circuit now, but can't win A2A to save my life!

[Pratt]

You guys are heroes to me!!! Just got BF109 installed and I have been trying to take off for the last 2 hours and managed to get airborne and flying once, in so many attempts. The landing was hard work as I finished on the grass

I have take off assist "OFF", auto rudder "OFF", pitch on "AUTO" and "Simulation" clicked in in Gameplay. Is there any hope for me or should I give up flying entirely? Help please!!!:helpsmilie:

Best Regards

Pratt

[Lizzard]

Hi Pratt, na..don`t give up...the problem is..it is a simulation..and the WW2 birds are very good simulated..so it need`s pracise:) The Problem will be that 10 Guys give you 10 advices how to do it. The only tip I can give you is..watch and react..so..apply throttle and watch what the plane is doing...then react and compensate..with the rudders..the stick or even the brakes..also try locked or un-locked tail wheel..once again..it needs practise..and you will find your way..another tip..do not set your view too narrow..I mean when you pin your nose on the dash you will not really see what the plane is doing or where it wants to go and you loose the feeling for how to react and compensate..:thumbup:

Edited December 16, 2014 by Lizzard

[FoReIgNeR]

Yes, you have the vertical needle in the sideslip indicator, and the ball which you want to keep pointing vertical and centered (by rudder input) as best as possible. 'follow the needle' and you will succeed =)

[Pratt]

Thank you Lizzard for your reply. As soon I get airborne and even with full R/H aileron and full R/H rudder the aircraft banks left and dives. Should I click "simulation" or "game" on the Gameplay drop down.

Thanks again Mate

[Pratt]

Thanks Foreigner, I shall look at that bank indicator.

[Yo-Yo]

Thank you Lizzard for your reply. As soon I get airborne and even with full R/H aileron and full R/H rudder the aircraft banks left and dives. Should I click "simulation" or "game" on the Gameplay drop down.

Thanks again Mate

 

You are airborne too early and/or overpitch the airplane. Try to stabilise 2 point attitude and gently pull the stick being able to keep the plane low till you get enough speed.