Tazintosh Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi folks! I would like to share with you a complete tutorial I've done to enhance the HOTAS Warthog Slew Control (you know… yeah… this crap) thanks to a 3D modeled new cursor I've modeled and get printed. I'm also providing the 3D file to you guys. Here's the article URL, you'll find the tutorial halfway: http://tazintosh.com/?p=7212 It's both fully available in french and english. BTW, I'm sure I don't know as many sim forums as you do, so feel free to spread the word. Enjoy! Cheers 3 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobinjaevel Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Great looking site and thanks for the work! :thumbup: But the download link seems broken, I get website not available and this DNS_PROBE_FINISHED_NXDOMAIN. Cheers Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 My mistake! Sorry. It's fixed now. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobinjaevel Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Thanks mate :thumbup: Will definetly get this printed out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA_Goblin Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Thank you :) I will print this in black ABS on my printer and see what happens. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] _____________Semper paratus, In hoc signo vinces________________ PC: Intel i7-8700K (4.9 GHz), Aorus Ultra Gaming Z370 MB, Gigabyte RTX 3080, 32 GB DDR3 (3,2 GHz), Samsung EVO 860 M.2 500 GB SSD + Samsung 960 M.2 250 GB SSD Gaming: Virpil T-50 CM2, TM WH Throttle, Crosswind pedals, HP Reverb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harle Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 I'm gonna try this out as soon as I find any 3d printing service in my sorry town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yurgon Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Holy cow that sounds great! Gotta try that ASAP. Thanks for sharing your findings and for the amazing in-depth documentation, and of course for the 3D files. :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingHighAU Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) Very cool - does it improve the accuracy of the slew? (it's either too fast or too slow by default haha) BTW - what is the best type of material to print this from? ABS, PLA, Nylon etc? Edited August 16, 2015 by FlyingHighAU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hey FlyingHighAU, As said on the article, to me, it greatly enhance the usability of the slew control as you can physically get your finger right in the center of the new piece. You are more confortable and precise. As the sensor itself is kept, the slew speed is not affected, so you still have to set it at your own taste. My knowledge on 3D printing is not sufficient. Anyhow, I think that the most important is the precision you'll go for (which could lead to a specific material). On my own, it's printed at 30µ on resin, which is quite enough. Thus I'd not recommend 16µ as the printing price will jump for no reason, and I don't recommend either to go for cheaper printing technologie with 100µ and above. The details will not render. Thanks for your feedback guys, glad you like it. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dojo Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Edouard, I was able to quickly get some samples produced based on your design. I flew a mission with my squadron last night, and had poor results. Admittedly, this was my first flight after having just installed the slew, so I'm not ready to say this is bad yet. Please see the following quick video I recorded. Really, it's exactly as you say in your article. I will continue to run it for another week to see if things improve, as it's too early to make a full judgement. In any case, thank you tremendously for your effort. Hey FlyingHighAU, As said on the article, to me, it greatly enhance the usability of the slew control as you can physically get your finger right in the center of the new piece. You are more confortable and precise. As the sensor itself is kept, the slew speed is not affected, so you still have to set it at your own taste. My knowledge on 3D printing is not sufficient. Anyhow, I think that the most important is the precision you'll go for (which could lead to a specific material). On my own, it's printed at 30µ on resin, which is quite enough. Thus I'd not recommend 16µ as the printing price will jump for no reason, and I don't recommend either to go for cheaper printing technologie with 100µ and above. The details will not render. Thanks for your feedback guys, glad you like it. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dojo Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I should add, I'm going to attempt a wider deadzone to see if that resolved the primary issue of accidental slew. I'll report my findings. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Dojo, You have perfectly illustrated a true issue user have to come around. Your video is perfect at this sense. Thanks you! When I said to keep the finger on the middle, I meant "while using" the slew control. However, as you shown it, the "problem" of triggering a slew by accident does exist while —not— using it. The idea of increasing the dead zone, is one I've applied. The other one I'm doing is to try learning to keep my middle finger to another place when not using the slew, so it prevent accidental inputs. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dojo Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Dojo, You have perfectly illustrated a true issue user have to come around. Your video is perfect at this sense. Thanks you! When I said to keep the finger on the middle, I meant "while using" the slew control. However, as you shown it, the "problem" of triggering a slew by accident does exist while —not— using it. The idea of increasing the dead zone, is one I've applied. The other one I'm doing is to try learning to keep my middle finger to another place when not using the slew, so it prevent accidental inputs. Indeed. I want to be very clear, the "poor" results have nothing to do with your design, which is excellent. It's the underlying sensor that is requiring the special consideration. My initial dead zone changes have certainly improved the accidental slew, but will need some tweaking. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Oh, and another idea I'll perhaps tryout is to create a "finger support" with some kind of "Sugru" rubber. That way, the middle finger could rest without pain in an up position above the slew control. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTFDarkEagle Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Perhaps a solution could be to decrease the physical size of your slew control mod? Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Perhaps a solution could be to decrease the physical size of your slew control mod? Sure, it will not look like the original one, but this could solve quite some "unwanted" inputs. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7rooper Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I think the size is just right. The problem is the hall sensor or whatever joystick system it uses. My rig specs: Intel Core i7 4770 @3.4Ghz // Corsair 16GB DDR3 // MoBo Asus Z87K // HDD 1TB 7200RPM // eVGA Nvidia GTX 760GT 2GB DDR5 // LG 3D 47" 1920x1080 // Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS // Saitek Combat Pro Pedals // Thrustmaster MFD Cougar pack // PS3 Eye + FTNOIR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RightStuff Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I think the size is just right. The problem is the hall sensor or whatever joystick system it uses. I think everyone wishes to see a true stick with hall sensors there... :( This module sucks from the bottom. Hope the enhancement of Taz will improve its behavior. Meanwhile I'm looking for a buddy with a 3D printer... :music_whistling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTFDarkEagle Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Sure, it will not look like the original one, but this could solve quite some "unwanted" inputs. Exactly - could be worth a try making one with "half radius" so to speak and to try it if it improves the sensitivity? Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 When I'll find time, I could prepare another 3D model for you guys, but I'll definitely not have the time to get it printed and tested for the moment. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdmccorm Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 The images are fantastic on your site, thanks. Question - the image file shows relative sizes, but what is the actual size that the smaller piece needs to be to fit on the existing control. Whats the actual width of that 'square' that fits over the control? Steve Mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98abaile Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 I'd say all you'd need to do is take the original design and add a thin concave disc about the same diameter as the autopilot button and have it sit relatively close to the case. As an example, imagine filing down the end of the nub and gluing a shirt button on top of it. All you really need is something that you can put your finger on and get decent finger tip control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingHighAU Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 (edited) a replacement Playstation Portable (PSP) analog stick does the trick nicely with a little bit of super glue. That and an added rubber or silicon cap. you can get all of this for $5 including postage :) The downside is that still get some rotation as you do with the 3D printed part. Apart from replacing the entire sensor I don't think you can get around that. Edited August 20, 2015 by FlyingHighAU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tazintosh Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Hi FlyingHighAU As said on the beginning of the tutorial: "…but unlike simple adaptations where people paste a substitute on the original stub, I wanted to make a change similar the original model…" :smilewink: Sdmccorm, thanks for your comment! About dimensions, I don't perfectly remember then, but just open the 3D files: everything is on scale so you should get any information you need. Cheers! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolUniverse Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 Are there any updated for this? the site is down w mod :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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