Debolestis Shapeways shop

[Ghost117]

Hello,

I have purchased and installed a plastic version of a straight but offset 15 deg (for center stick mounting) tailpiece from Shapeways and I'm very happy with it. I haven't tried the steel the version but the plastic version looks and feel very sturdy. The connector screws thread themselves although you might have to enlarge the holes a bit (but it's easy, you can do it with a narrow screwdriver). I used it for a couple of weeks and it shows no sign of play. I ordered it from Romania and it arrived in standard time (a couple of days for express shipping) with no problem.

[Sokol1_br]

2. Does the weight of the steel replacement add possible problems and if so, is the plastic version sufficient over the steel one durability wise?

 

The weight of steel 3D print piece will be not significantly different of the original Zamak piece. Steel is ~20% more dense than Zamak (8.050 x 6.8 kg/m3).

 

 

Until now no one who bough plastic versions in Shapeways complain about broken parts, what may happens with the original piece. And the part printed in Shapeways has wider walls to be more resistant.

 

I remember some users post about little flex, think that using the grip in Force Sense base.

 

But, since the grip is new, why not use the warranty?

Edited July 12, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[Lobinjaevel]

I've used my plastic one on my Warthog grip for a year or two with my FSSB R3 on max force, no issues, works flawless!

[RogueSqdn]

I used to have a Shapeways piece on my Warthog grip and it broke where the screw connects it to the grip.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MustangSally]

I ordered the polished bronze tail piece for my old WH joystick (my Dad now uses it) 2yrs ago and it hasn't missed a beat.

[Struikrover]

The weight of steel 3D print piece will be not significantly different of the original Zamak piece. Steel is ~20% more dense than Zamak (8.050 x 6.8 kg/m3).

 

 

Until now no one who bough plastic versions in Shapeways complain about broken parts, what may happens with the original piece. And the part printed in Shapeways has wider walls to be more resistant.

 

I remember some users post about little flex, think that using the grip in Force Sense base.

 

But, since the grip is new, why not use the warranty?

 

Partly since I was considering the replacement part when searching for information and the fact I took the thing apart and have no prior experience with Thrustmaster warranty and what time it would take, etc.

 

And not sure how much I trust pot metal for the small dimensions the screw holders are.

 

--

 

Anyhow; thanks for your answer and of others!

[RogueSqdn]

By the way, I had the 15 degree twist piece on a Warthog grip (the one I mentioned breaking at the screw attachment), but used a separate grip on my FSSB (and later got the RealSimulator F16SGRH CE grip).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[debolestis]

I have added a new part in my Shapeways store. It is for Toliss Airbus add-on. It is tested and working. If anybody is interested part can be bought from Shapeways or I can print it myself much cheaper.

 

 

 

[zhutwo]

Any plans for a Suncom Hall Sensor mounting solution?

[Sokol1_br]

zhutwo

 

If you 3D print "Object 77-b" CAM gimbal, this will fit inside Suncom case and accept contacless sensor.

 

Is just need print a additional spacer.

 

 

If ask ROSS-Karavan in above topic (write in English under spoiler) he can draw a pole for Suncon grip, will need that you take measures.

 

This gimbal was used in Cobra M-5, VKB Gladiator, HOTAS Cougar sticks.

Edited August 11, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[debolestis]

Any plans for a Suncom Hall Sensor mounting solution?

 

 

I don't have plans for this.

[zhutwo]

zhutwo

 

If you 3D print "Object 77-b" CAM gimbal, this will fit inside Suncom case and accept contacless sensor.

 

Is just need print a additional spacer.

 

 

If ask ROSS-Karavan in above topic (write in English under spoiler) he can draw a pole for Suncon grip, will need that you take measures.

 

This gimbal was used in Cobra M-5, VKB Gladiator, HOTAS Cougar sticks.

 

 

Oh that's interesting, thanks. If using a gimbal solution, will it remove the smooth feeling of the saturn ring when crossing axis?

 

I'm curious what is the solution you are using in your own build? You seem to be the resident Suncom expert :)

Edited August 11, 2020 by zhutwo

[Sokol1_br]

I believe that CAM gimbal leave axis separation more defined, since are two distinct axes points.

 

If you objective is keep Suncom original gimbal - what is similar to Warthog/T.16000, X-5x gimbals operation (all considere so so) the only solution proposed until now is the old DocFlyer pot to HALL conversion, but AFAIK he is the only person who made this conversion, in ~10 years no second feedback is know.

 

In SimHQ sare a link for their PDF instructions.

 

Well, I have 4 or 5 Suncom's laying around, but never use then jus due the lack of practical gimbal solution.

3D Print in "corner of the world" or is very expensive or lack or quality in print and materials

 

Besides Object 77-B in il2sturmovik.ru forum are a guy selling a metal gimbal that fit inside Suncom case.

Too need the above spacer, but are based in a kind of pincer, so with more defined center and transition than CAM.

Edited August 12, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[zhutwo]

Did you try the DocFlyer mod? It didn't work out for me so I'm trying a home made solution that uses a fulcrum point instead of sliding the magnets. If it doesn't work I may just order new potentiometers and live with having to replace them every so often. At least now you can find the slide potentiometers for cheap when it wasn't so before.

[Sokol1_br]

No, at time I give a look, stripe a Suncom pot, but don't seems how that MOD don't cause friction/stiction, an since I have other sticks forget the matter.

 

I believe that Object 77-B is the best option for try

[skygunner58203]

Any chance we can print the adapter ourselves? I have a mk3s, and one of the offset connectors is just what I need to center mount my hog stick. I don't mind purchasing a printed model, just like to print things myself.

[Cutter5]

Hey debolestis,

 

Just installed the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle (black plastick) on my Warthog stick to use it with an FSSB.

 

I noticed that, the stick is actually a bit loose and moves sideways around the tailpiece.

 

Do you have any recommendation, how to fix this? I don't want to overtighten the bolts though.

 

Do I need to use washers by any chance or I got a slightly off print from Shapeways?

 

Thanks

[debolestis]

Hey debolestis,

 

Just installed the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle (black plastick) on my Warthog stick to use it with an FSSB.

 

I noticed that, the stick is actually a bit loose and moves sideways around the tailpiece.

 

Do you have any recommendation, how to fix this? I don't want to overtighten the bolts though.

 

Do I need to use washers by any chance or I got a slightly off print from Shapeways?

 

Thanks

 

 

I am sorry that this is happening to you. This can be the case with FSSB, try use some electrical tape. If it doesn't work, let me know and I'll print a new one for you.

[Namco51]

Hi Debolestis,

 

I am in the middle of mounting my CH Fighterstick handle on my MS FFB2 shaft. I was looking for an adapter so I don't have to cut both of the joystick shafts. Does the Combat Stick have the same mounting shaft as the fighter stick? The Fighter stick shaft is 40mm tall, 12.75mm in diameter, has a divot in the shaft 27mm from the top, and has two little 2.5mm wings on it. I thought your FFB2 to Combat Stick was going to be perfect for this, but I see that it is rather tall. Is there any chance you have 1) a version that is much shorter (as short as possible (80mm)? and 2) a version that has the FFB2 spring retainer foot modeled into the base (not a huge requirement, but it would be nice to have this mechanical resistance to torque) like the Sopwith stick has: https://imgur.com/a/RnQQbAA . It also needs to be hollow so I can feed a 4mm cable through it down to the FFB2 base

 

I guess I just need a version of your FFB2 to Combat Stick adapter where the FFB2 part of the shaft is 30mm instead of 120mm (given the Combat Stick shaft is the same as the Fighter Stick). Can you do that? 

 

EDIT: Whipped one up in Fusion 360. Was easier than I thought it would be. Going to bug a buddy of mine to print it. My new year's resolution is to buy a 3D printer, they're so cool!

 

Edited January 3, 2021 by Namco51

[AstroNomad]

Hi Debolestis,

Really enjoying discovering your stellar work here! 

I was thinking of making a CH Fighterstick that fits a VKB Gunfighter base, using VKB's Warthog adapter.

First I thought I could just use your tailpiece for CH Fighterstick designed to make it fit a Warthog/Virpil base, but after looking at how the VKB adapter works I think this needs another iteration of the model. Here's an image for convenience:

It looks thicker than the Fighterstick but I don't have the measurements. Could you make one that fits the CH screws? Assuming we can salvage the connector from the VKB.

[Sokol1_br]

AstroNomad

 

The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place, probable you will destroy something trying take appart.

 

I think that will be more easy - if feasible,  modify CH grip base for fit in VKB adapter.

 

BTW - You need a 3xCD4021 shift register PCB inside CH grip for "talk" with VKB electronic adapter, what will require too redo the connections (actually a 5x4 matrix) of buttons and HAT's. 

[AstroNomad]

18 hours ago, Sokol1_br said:

The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place, probable you will destroy something trying take appart.

 

I think that will be more easy - if feasible,  modify CH grip base for fit in VKB adapter.

Thanks mate, you are probably right as usual -- I didn't know VKB adapter is pressed in, although it makes sense since it is load bearing over the connector. 

I was hoping to get the shift registers on the PCBs from Debolestis. If I get more than 24bit, do you think I can add more switches? That is to say, is the number of switches limited by the VKB's adapter, or NJoy? 

[Sokol1_br]

VKB electronic adapter is for manage Warthog Shift Register of  3x CD4021 = 24 buttons, in Warthog/F-18 grips are used 19 buttons +POV HAT (4) = 23 buttons.

 

CH Fighterstick has 16 buttons + POV HAT (4), so theoretically you can use more 4 buttons, but better ask in VKB forum if the adapter translate all Shift register 24 buttons or even more.

[AstroNomad]

No updates from VKB yet, but I'll post if I learn something about this.

Debolestis, would your 24 bit Shift register board do the trick -- make a CH Fighter Stick or Combat Stick appear like a TM Warthog stick?
This is for my VKB conversion project posted above. 

 

I've seen the OSH Park webpage, but wondering if you also have these made or stored somewhere in Europe? Including our home country  (Da ti ne spemam sad ovaj topic!)

[Sergey_Pe]

On 1/12/2021 at 12:32 AM, Sokol1_br said:

The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place

No, it's not. In earlier versions there was a threaded pin that had to be screwed out to free the connector, now it's just a rubber block that holds the connector in place and is very easy to remove. And then the connector goes out.

Besides, the connector itself can be purchased from AliExpress or eBay- here is the link.

Edited January 17, 2021 by Sergey_Pe