Saitek Pro Flight Rudder pedals seem to have died

[ctguy1955]

I was using them on the same computer and things were fine. I had to move the computer

and took everything apart, and when I set up my rig again at home, the pedals are not

seen in the PC's "Devices and Printers" area ( joystick hotas is though) and no column

in DCS, but the pedals seem to have died or something.

 

I tried on a laptop with 32 bit and it did not see the rudder pedals either.

I think that is proof that they are somehow broken ?

 

Thanks for any advice or help with this. Cant take off in WWII Dora

without my pedals, and cant afford new ones either.

 

I will have to check to see if they are over one year old.

[Rangi]

First thing I would try is to check the usb cable, do you have a multimeter?

[KLR Rico]

Does the light on the pedals come on?

[ctguy1955]

The light does come on. Ive tried it on two computers now too. I do have a meter.

Am I checking for continuity ?

 

Saitek has a two year warranty and of course the pedals are two years and a month and a half old.

[Majinbot]

T

Saitek has a two year warranty and of course the pedals are two years and a month and a half old.

 

Built-in obsolescence, like my gtx690 (two years and one month) :mad:

[KLR Rico]

I'd open it up and have a look around. Look carefully for broken or damaged wires, and cold solder joints. Since you have the meter check continuity between the usb plug and the corresponding wires inside the pedals.

[ctguy1955]

Im going to wait to hear back from Mad Catz before I unscrew the center screw with the

serial number on it. They may have me ship it back, so before I open it up, I will wait two more days for an answer.

 

Thank You so much for the advice and help, I appreciate it VERY much.

 

have a hard enough time taking off in the dora with pedals, and I just like having them.

[ctguy1955]

Mad Catz took 15 messages back and forth to finally say I was a month and a half past

warranty. Anyway, Ive taken all the screws out of the bottom and still cant get the

halves to open up.

 

There are 10 rubber pads that MAY have screws under them.......??????

 

I scraped off the center serial number thinking a screw was under and its not.

Guess I will start peeling off rubber pads

[ctguy1955]

[ame]

[/ame]

 

Now I know 4 center rubber pads....Youtube is wonderful !!!

[ctguy1955]

Since you have the meter check continuity between the usb plug and the corresponding wires inside the pedals.

__________________

 

I have it all open, so Im going to give this a try. All wires look good.

My Razor Orbweaver is now giving me problems as well..... System

does not see it because of lack of driver and Razer Synapse does not

see it. While the rudders do nothing but the power light coming on, the

orbweaver does show up in device manager as something not

recognised ? Thanks for all Your Help !!!

\

[ctguy1955]

I cant find my copy of the "Idiots guide to test Saitek Rudder Pedals with a multimeter"

and would like some info as to where to begin please..... Thank You for any help

[samoo]

Dead pedals are good reason (or excuse :))) to buy mfg crosswinds

[ctguy1955]

I spent 200 on my rudders and they are nice to use when they work, and there are replacement boards by Leo Bodner.

 

replace the standard Saitek electronics with one of our universal USB joystick interfaces then something like this product would be suitable for your requirements:

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204

 

it would be a lot less expensive to fix what I am familiar with, then to buy other

pedals that may not be comfortable for me.

 

The new Thrustmaster ones look terrible and have their pedals way too close.

 

 

Besides, I'd rather take the extra money from not replacing mine and buying:

 

http://WWW.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826280021

Edited May 14, 2016 by ctguy1955

[trigen]

Same thing happened with my pedals so i stuck a bodnar board on it, works great

[ctguy1955]

board testing

 

Same thing happened with my pedals so i stuck a bodnar board on it, works great

 

Would You have any idea how I can test my unit to see if its

the board or USB cord. I recently moved and am having a

hard time finding my multi meter, but I do have a

continuity tester available.

 

Thank You !!!

[Sokol1_br]

You need test the continuity from USB connector to points when their internal cables are soldered in controller PCB.

 

If this are OK something happen with the USB controller... no fix for this.

[ctguy1955]

You need test the continuity from USB connector to points when their internal cables are soldered in controller PCB.

 

If this are OK something happen with the USB controller... no fix for this.

 

Thank You !!!! I just found my Fluke 73 series Multi meter !!!!!

 

 

OK, so the USB cable has two blacks, a white, a red, and a Green.

 

 

The Green board shows from top to bottom, :

 

*VCC

*0_

*0+

*Gnd

*Shield

 

 

 

OK, I just tested the red wire and I have 5.08 volts using the shield as my grnd.

I have no idea of how the Data + and - will be tested ?????

 

Id appreciate some help with this..

Edited May 19, 2016 by ctguy1955
kinda lost

[ctguy1955]

Hard to believe that in this Forum, i cant get any help

[Cibit]

Good luck with this, I ended up buying a new set as I had the same trouble as you. If you find a fix please post:thumbup:

[Pocket Sized]

Test to make sure each of the data pins on the board connect to one of the inner USB pins.

[Sokol1_br]

Set you multimeter in continuity test mode and put one of test points in one wire and other in the correspondent USB connector pin (inside), if the multimeter show some reading are OK, if not the wire are broken in some point. In this case the cable can be replaced with a cable for printers for example, cutting off the B terminal (square).

 

http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html

 

If all cables pass this test, the USB Controller inside the pedal is defective and need be replace with other from manufacturer - probable not available, less now that Saitek are going south - or DIY solutions with BU0836, MMJoy2 etc.

 

As people pointed above the "easy" solution is buy a new pedal, preferable one "high end" like MFG Crosswind or Slaw Viper (360-550$).

 

But this that you own is fixable - if have skill and desire to do.

Edited May 25, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[ctguy1955]

Thank You Sokol1_br

 

I appreciate the help very much, Thank You for Your Help.

Mike

[ctguy1955]

Thank You Cibit and Pocket Sized, appreciate the help !!!

 

Have a great Weekend !!!

[Baldawg]

I modded my old TM RCS pedals with tow brakes and tied them and the rudder axis pot to a BU0836X card. Being that the rudder pedals had to plug into the TM Cougar to work when I'm using the TM Warthog forced my hand with that project. There is a lot of info online about pots and there is only three wires to connect. Just make sure you know which one is which or you'll send 5V to the wrong pin on the pot and fry it. The attached pics show the mods I've done but not the wiring for the rudder pot but you get the idea. For less than 100$ you can get your pedals operational and maybe learn some new stuff along the way.

[ctguy1955]

My cat knocked the rudders off the table and rods and round black circle things went all over.

 

I found my soldering iron at least, as we moved and everything was in boxes.

 

I had asked about checking out the USB plug first, I have 5 volts of power but am

not sure how to test:

 

the USB cable has two blacks, a white, a red, and a Green.

 

 

The Green board shows from top to bottom, :

 

*VCC

*0_

*0+

*Gnd

*Shield

 

 

 

OK, I just tested the red wire and I have 5.08 volts using the shield as my grnd.

I have no idea of how the Data + and - will be tested ?????"