How to avoid seizing the engine

[The Legman]

I am trying to learn to be gentle with the beautiful Merlin 66 :joystick:

 

So far i try to keep it at around 2600-2800 rpm only going full rpm for takeoff. Also, I try to not go above 12 psi on the boost.

 

When i was dogfighting AI and trying to play their climbing game i have had killed my engine a couple of times. Seems that if you stall, even if you idle the engine, chances are that the engine quits even if it is just for a short amount of time.

 

Anything else? Guidelines?

[Buckram]

You gotta keep glancing at your radiator temps, and remedy the potential for overheating. If you see your temp climbing, you can force open your radiator by switching the radiator test switch (RAD FLAP - Next your rudder trim) to on or putting the aircraft in a dive, to force enough airflow to cool the engine.

 

Usually I do both, however the real trick comes in staying constantly vigilant and watching the temperatures before the become an issue...

[The Legman]

The problem in dogfight is tunnel vision. Yeah. Loss of situational awareness and forgetting to keep an eye on some vital stuff.

[Davee]

You gotta keep glancing at your radiator temps, and remedy the potential for overheating. If you see your temp climbing, you can force open your radiator by switching the radiator test switch (RAD FLAP - Next your rudder trim) to on or putting the aircraft in a dive, to force enough airflow to cool the engine.

 

Usually I do both, however the real trick comes in staying constantly vigilant and watching the temperatures before the become an issue...

 

I have found that because the RAD on the MK IX is a closed system, it takes a lot to overheat it . . . but . . . . the OIL Temp. is another thing. It seems that it is ready to go over 80 C at any time with the usual results.

 

Like the OP, I watch Boost and RPM and still find the temps a bit high OIL wise and therefore wonder about the modelling. Just wondering at this time.

[Davee]

I am trying to learn to be gentle with the beautiful Merlin 66 :joystick:

 

So far i try to keep it at around 2600-2800 rpm only going full rpm for takeoff. Also, I try to not go above 12 psi on the boost.

 

When i was dogfighting AI and trying to play their climbing game i have had killed my engine a couple of times. Seems that if you stall, even if you idle the engine, chances are that the engine quits even if it is just for a short amount of time.

 

Anything else? Guidelines?

 

My understanding and testing definitely shows that airspeed - thruput to the RAD intakes is something to watch. Climbing and low airspeed coupled with higher boost and RPM will certainly make the TEMPS climb.

 

ps. A 109 will outclimb you. :)

[Wags]

Keep fast to avoid lack of ram air cooling.

[Zunzun]

When in manoeuvring combat I watch the coolant/oil gauges as frequent as I can and try to give full boost only in short burst (like when climbing) and relaxing it (both boost and rpm) while diving.

[harm_]

I don't have a lot of flight time on the MkIX (yet), but I used to fly a lot the excelent A2A Simulations Spit MkI Accusim. In that plane, with only one radiator, I learned a lot about temps management, trust me. I fried several merlins... and there was no combat involved. Just high OAT and a noob Spit pilot.

 

So I'm currently using what I learned on it In DCS Spit. (I know the engines are differents, and that I'm loosing performance for sure, but I have yet to blow an engine)

 

I dont have the manual here to check the proper settings, but as Wags wrote, speed is crucial. You need to mantain a good airflow through the rads to keep the merlin happy.

 

2 important speeds I have in my mind when I fly it.

 

- 180mph is a good reference minimun speed for engine cooling.

- Never below 150mph with gear/flaps down for extended periods of time

 

At this point I use the following throttle settings in DCS:

 

- Combat: As required keeping an eagle's eye on my temps. The faster the better, but the most important thing is staying alive.

- Low power climb - 2600rpm-2psi-160mph IAS

- Normal climb - 2600rpm- 6psi- 185mph IAS

- Cruise: I tend to use 2200rpm boost 0 or +2. But I normaly use the power setting required to keep my desired speed.

 

Back then there was a common catch cry that i've read in several pilots talking about their experience in ww2 on the spit: "Low revs high boost will bring you safely home to roost"*.

 

* Notes:

- As long as you don't go below minimum rpm for maximum boost.

- In cruise, mantaining the speed!. In order to accelerate or climb remember that you must first increase your RPMs and then apply power.

 

Also, there is something that I don't know If it is implemented in the DCS SpitIX, it was in the spit i mentieoned above. There temp indicators may "lag", specially the water temperature. So when heating up, expect the temps to be actually higher than the ones indicated. So be prepared. In this beauty, planning ahead is important.

Edited December 22, 2016 by harm_
trying to correct grammar errors in my awful english...

[Yo-Yo]

I am trying to learn to be gentle with the beautiful Merlin 66 :joystick:

 

So far i try to keep it at around 2600-2800 rpm only going full rpm for takeoff. Also, I try to not go above 12 psi on the boost.

 

When i was dogfighting AI and trying to play their climbing game i have had killed my engine a couple of times. Seems that if you stall, even if you idle the engine, chances are that the engine quits even if it is just for a short amount of time.

 

Anything else? Guidelines?

 

Watch your speed and never use more than +12-14 MP. +18 - only to catch up your opponent having sufficient speed.

Do not avoid 3000 rpm as it is your MP at certain altitude ranges. Carefully watch the IAS. If you are lower than 180 mph for a long time, and your speed bleeds further - you are in real trouble.

 

The key of your problem is that the Spitfire has lower energy space than 109, Dora or even a Mustang due to its low weight and high wing area.

Energy space, as I define it, is a height range you can achieve performing an energy sweep test: go fast at the SL over a point, then start a zoom at 60-70 deg pulling not more than 2.5-3g to retain energy. At 120% of your actual stall speed perform a split-S and proceed down pulling not more than 2.5-3 g to pass over the point. After several passes you will see that the highest altitude (and speed) you reach does not increase. That is the height or energy range of the aircraft and it is a base for a proper combat energy management.

 

AI or some MP players can manage their energy very effectively, so you must not try to follow Dora at zoom climb for the end, because you will hang the plane and burn the engine at low speed with no effective cooling.

Instead of it try to catch your opponent on the descending maneuver saving a lot of energy and maneuverability.

[The Legman]

Thanks for the tips

[SFC Tako]

When in manoeuvring combat I watch the coolant/oil gauges as frequent as I can and try to give full boost only in short burst (like when climbing) and relaxing it (both boost and rpm) while diving.

 

LOL, I do the exact opposite. Full boost when diving, ease off when going skywards. Don't know which is better, we can surely discuss it for hours ;)

[Yo-Yo]

LOL, I do the exact opposite. Full boost when diving, ease off when going skywards. Don't know which is better, we can surely discuss it for hours ;)

 

You can safely use full boost the whole time you are above 180 mph... but it depends on your energy state - if you have an advantage in it you can keep the engine safer.

[Krupi]

You can safely use full boost the whole time you are above 180 mph... but it depends on your energy state - if you have an advantage in it you can keep the engine safer.

 

Good tip, tried to keep the crate above 180 and temps remained very manageable. :thumbup:

 

Thanks Yo-Yo

[SFC Tako]

You can safely use full boost the whole time you are above 180 mph... but it depends on your energy state - if you have an advantage in it you can keep the engine safer.

Well DANG! Good info :)

[PitbullVicious]

I noticed yesterday on the Burning Skies server that ambient temperature makes a big difference too (which is of course only logical). Could keep the engine running on +12 boost @ 2850 RPM without any overheating.

 

All planes (engines) of course benefit from colder and denser air (at least to a point), but maybe the Spitfire will benefit relatively more than FW-190, for example, due to the cooling system?

[Akatsuki]

You can safely use full boost the whole time you are above 180 mph... but it depends on your energy state - if you have an advantage in it you can keep the engine safer.

 

I'll try to keep that in mind. :)

[Bounder]

I've found even when running fast straight and level the water temp will increase to the point I have to throttle back after a couple of minutes when running at full boost and RPM. However when this happens if I change the radiator from automatic setting to open this starts cooling the engine and it's no problem. I'm wondering if the automatic radiator is functioning properly and fully opening. I'm not talking about doing turns / climbs etc, just straight and level with constant high speed.

 

[edit] I'm away for christmas so I can't get back on my pc to record a track but can do in the new year

Edited December 24, 2016 by Bounder

[Zilch]

Good stuff here! It'll help with my two main problems in the Spit.

 

Now, if I can just start hitting targets reliably...