Blue73 Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) Hi, I play DCS in VR so like having shaped buttons I can easily find. I've built the launch bar, hook and canopy switch headers for F-18 to wrap around my rear switches. I used the existing screws to secure it down. Nothing is glued so they can be easily removed. I've added a small brass rod to pin the upper sections together but anything could be used, it would even be okay without it. STL files attached. cheers JohnSwitchWrapper.zip Edited August 7, 2018 by Blue73
javelina1 Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Wow, I like that! Can you share your file? I'd like to print this out on my 3D printer. :-) MSI MAG Z790 Carbon, i9-13900k, NH-D15 cooler, 64 GB CL40 6000mhz RAM, MSI RTX4090, Yamaha 5.1 A/V Receiver, 4x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro NVMe, 1x 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD, Win 11 Pro, TM Warthog, Virpil WarBRD, MFG Crosswinds, 43" Samsung 4K TV, 21.5 Acer VT touchscreen, TrackIR, Varjo Aero, Wheel Stand Pro Super Warthog, Phanteks Enthoo Pro2 Full Tower Case, Seasonic GX-1200 ATX3 PSU, PointCTRL, Buttkicker 2, K-51 Helicopter Collective Control
Ala12Rv-Tundra Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 looking good!! i5 8400 | 32 Gb RAM | RTX 2080Ti | Virpil Mongoose T-50 base w/ Warthog & Hornet sticks | Warthog throttle | Cougar throttle USB | Orion 2 throttle base w/ Viper & Hornet grips| VKB T-Rudder Mk IV | Oculus Rift S | Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC | 2x TM MFDs & 1x WW DDI | 2x Bass shakers | SIMple SIMpit chair | WW TakeOff panel | Andre JetSeat | WW Hornet UFC | WW Viper ICP FC3 - Warthog - F-5E - Harrier - NTTR - Hornet - Tomcat - Huey - Viper - C-101 - PG - Hip - SuperCarrier - Syria - Warthog II - Hind - South Atlantic - Sinai - Strike Eagle - Phantom - Mirage F1 - Afghanistan - Irak
Blue73 Posted August 5, 2018 Author Posted August 5, 2018 Thanks Guys. javelina can you PM me your email address so I can email them to you?
javelina1 Posted August 5, 2018 Posted August 5, 2018 Thanks Guys. javelina can you PM me your email address so I can email them to you? info inbound. thanks M8! :thumbup: MSI MAG Z790 Carbon, i9-13900k, NH-D15 cooler, 64 GB CL40 6000mhz RAM, MSI RTX4090, Yamaha 5.1 A/V Receiver, 4x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro NVMe, 1x 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD, Win 11 Pro, TM Warthog, Virpil WarBRD, MFG Crosswinds, 43" Samsung 4K TV, 21.5 Acer VT touchscreen, TrackIR, Varjo Aero, Wheel Stand Pro Super Warthog, Phanteks Enthoo Pro2 Full Tower Case, Seasonic GX-1200 ATX3 PSU, PointCTRL, Buttkicker 2, K-51 Helicopter Collective Control
DeadMeat Posted August 6, 2018 Posted August 6, 2018 Very cool! I'm always amazed at the creativity around here. Looking at your first couple of pictures though, this is what I immediately thought of :D My friend had one many years ago and man it was just the greatest thing ever :joystick: My mods --> Mil-spec upgrades for TM Warthog, Hornet & Cougar grips | Mil-spec upgrade for TM Warthog throttle | Real Tornado gear switch modded into gear and hook lever switches
Bazooka Posted August 6, 2018 Posted August 6, 2018 This was my very first pit from my childhood in the 60's! I think I was 7 yrs old, many many hours of fun was had.
Terry Dactil Posted August 7, 2018 Posted August 7, 2018 Great minds .... etc. I also came to the conclusion that a bit of 3D printing can improve the VR experience. (The yellow lever is for setting the Harrier's nozzle angle. It has a detent at the 82° hover position).
BlacleyCole Posted August 7, 2018 Posted August 7, 2018 How much. To have you print a set out and ship to 88310 BlackeyCole 20years usaf XP-11. Dcs 2.5OB Acer predator laptop/ i7 7720, 2.4ghz, 32 gb ddr4 ram, 500gb ssd,1tb hdd,nvidia 1080 8gb vram New FlightSim Blog at https://blackeysblog.wordpress.com. Go visit it and leave me feedback and or comments so I can make it better. A new post every Friday.
Terry Dactil Posted August 7, 2018 Posted August 7, 2018 BlacleyCole: If you are referring to my post above and not to Blue73. Sorry, this is just a hobby for me and I expect the postage from Australia would make it uneconomic for you. However, you are welcome to the STL files if you wish to get them printed yourself. Here are the files for the gear handle Gear lever.zip The files for the Harrier nozzle lever are available in another thread... https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=217091 (Apologies to Blue73. I did not intend to hijack your thread) 1
Blue73 Posted August 7, 2018 Author Posted August 7, 2018 (edited) Great minds .... etc. I also came to the conclusion that a bit of 3D printing can improve the VR experience. [ATTACH]191585[/ATTACH] (The yellow lever is for setting the Harrier's nozzle angle. It has a detent at the 82° hover position). Very nice Terry, it sure makes a difference also I'm from Aus as well! :) Edited August 7, 2018 by Blue73
Terry Dactil Posted August 9, 2018 Posted August 9, 2018 For anyone who does not like the previous version as it looks like a mixture control lever operating their landing gear, here is one with a more standard looking wheel on it. STL files here: Gear Lever - Wheel.zip
Goblin Posted August 10, 2018 Posted August 10, 2018 Blue73, I really like your idea! Someone should make an entire button box, with individual overlays, like this, that the user could configure as they want.
BlacleyCole Posted August 10, 2018 Posted August 10, 2018 I was referring to blue3 BlackeyCole 20years usaf XP-11. Dcs 2.5OB Acer predator laptop/ i7 7720, 2.4ghz, 32 gb ddr4 ram, 500gb ssd,1tb hdd,nvidia 1080 8gb vram New FlightSim Blog at https://blackeysblog.wordpress.com. Go visit it and leave me feedback and or comments so I can make it better. A new post every Friday.
Blue73 Posted August 11, 2018 Author Posted August 11, 2018 Blue73, I really like your idea! Someone should make an entire button box, with individual overlays, like this, that the user could configure as they want. Thanks Golbin, funny your’re saying that. I’m building that very thing right now.
TEMPEST.114 Posted December 13, 2018 Posted December 13, 2018 I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece?
Blue73 Posted December 13, 2018 Author Posted December 13, 2018 Hi, The main purpose was to strengthen the dimension in-line with the layers. But since designing this I've discovered the wonders of acetone with ABS. If I had to do it again I certainly would key the sides so they mesh together then acetone and sand the parts. My newest switch headers for the Hornet are a single block of plastic with pins driven through the toggle to secure it in place. Though I certainly wouldn't be drilling any holes through my Warthog switches. Also the black guides are now much smaller, almost a 1/5th the size. I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece?
TechRoss Posted December 14, 2018 Posted December 14, 2018 I don't know anything about 3D printing realities, but can I ask why did you go with the brass tube peg idea, and not make the two halves of the switch tops have interlocking parts? I.E. one side have a peg instead of a hole, and that fills the hole in the other piece? The one problem with this is the you want a flat surface to print from, so having a peg section can be problematic. In 3D printing you ideally want a flat surface on the bed, well you really have to have one and then remember that anything with a overhang of say more than 40 degrees has to be supported in some way. You can not print something just hanging in the air if that makes sense. (There are ways around this, but not simple and can affect the print quality)
Blue73 Posted December 14, 2018 Author Posted December 14, 2018 I've used that technique with hex nuts and a soldering iron. The plastic melts around it locking it in place. You can also add inserts.
DERacing Posted May 2, 2019 Posted May 2, 2019 Love the work Guys!!! Ive been a printing fool lately. Anything new? :D Intel i7 9700k, 64GB DDR4 (Corsair), Gigabyte Z390 Master, RTX 2080 Ti AMP 11gb, 500GB Sabrent Rocket (System), 1TB XPG Gammix S11 Pro M.2 (DCS), Windows 11 64-bit Pro, Samsung 49" 4K CRG9 Monitor (5120x1440), Samsung Odyssey Plus, TrackIR 5, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, Various streamdecks, button boxes, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, Corsair K95 Platinum, Iron Claw mouse. DCS OB, F-14B Tomcat, F-18C Hornet, F-16C Viper, A-10C Warthog, F-5 Tiger II, AV-8B Harrier, P-51D Mustang, FC3, Super Carrier Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, (3) Cougar MFD's, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, (2) Stream Decks, (1) Stream Deck XL, (1) Stream Deck Mini, Misc Button Boxes
assafm25 Posted August 5, 2019 Posted August 5, 2019 Great job. Nice to see more and more 3D projects. Did any one make it for the X-56 ? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] IAF Bell205 IAF Anafa ----------------------- DCS World Modules: A-10C, FC3, MiG-21BiS, F-86, P-51, KA-50, UH-1H Huey, Mi-8, M2000K, Gazal, Bf109, Mig-15, Hawk and NTTR ----------------------- My System - ASUS Maximus HERO iiiv, CoolMaster 120 Sadion Plus, I7 -6700K @4.0, G.Skill ddr4 16GB ram, Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 , PSU Seasonic X-650W, OCZ 150 500Gb ssd drive X2, Seagate 7200 1T X2. -------------
bunnyhu Posted May 7, 2020 Posted May 7, 2020 (edited) Hmm, I just start working on the a same problem like you this evening in fusion360. Nice to see, someone else have a solution! Anyway, what do you use for fixing the two parts? That is not a screw. Can you link it, please? My project is this for landing gear: Edited May 8, 2020 by bunnyhu
bunnyhu Posted May 8, 2020 Posted May 8, 2020 My soluton for the caps. Also need some anti-rotate solution and cleaning :)
Blue73 Posted May 8, 2020 Author Posted May 8, 2020 Hi, I did use a single pin (thin brass rod) to keep the two halves together, but to truly keep them together and to prevent rotation I had to print the base plate with the half circle guides. In the end the fit between them was tight enough that I didn't even need the pin. When I built my next switch header I downsized the guides, they worked just as well. You can see below. cheers John My soluton for the caps. Also need some anti-rotate solution and cleaning :)
Recommended Posts