pitbldr Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 AFAIK, that is non-functional in the simulation. Unless I imagined it, it is functional in the sim. At work now, so can't verify, but I am fairly certain I held that button in and then cycled the gear lever which resulted in alarms sounding. If I didn't do this, then I've started dreaming about the sim! :D
Deadman Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) The Landing Gear handle Is clear resin with Red edge light bulb holders on the top and bottom. here are some pictures. Dunk makes a fine F-16 type landing Gear handle but it is quite different than the A-10 Handle Edited November 2, 2010 by Deadman https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
Avilator Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Unless I imagined it, it is functional in the sim. At work now, so can't verify, but I am fairly certain I held that button in and then cycled the gear lever which resulted in alarms sounding. From the manual: Moving the gear handle results in the alarm going off regardless if something is wrong. I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!" Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow. -Robert Goddard "A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson "I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly
power5 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Made from wood is nice. If you want to make it light up, you could carve a groove in the bottom edge to hide the wire. Then drill a hole through the knob. Then cut some acrylic to the shape of the knob and frost it by sanding. Place LED in center of knob and then sandwich with acrylic. Fill wire groove back in with FG. Will not be real, but will light up fine. And, should be able to mod what you have already created without too much trouble. That is how I would make it. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Aaron i7 2600k@4.4ghz, GTX1060-6gb, 16gb DDR3, T16000m, Track IR5 BS2-A10C-UH1-FC3-M2000-F18C-A4E-F14B-BF109
pitbldr Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 From the manual: ** image deleted ** Moving the gear handle results in the alarm going off regardless if something is wrong. Regardless of what the BETA manual states, I just loaded up the sim and was able to raise the landing gear lever while holding in the downlock override. I could not raise the lever without holding that switch in. Isn't that the purpose of this switch - to overide the conditions that prevent the lever from being raised?
Deadman Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Was the air craft on the ground? this is one of the thing the over ride is for . The purpose is to over ride automatic function of weight on the wheels lock out "The down lock solenoid override button (33, figure FO-l), is located on the landing gear control panel and placarded DOWN LOCK OVERRIDE. Depressing the button allows the landing gear handle to be I moved to UP even if aircraft weight is on the main gear. However, the nose and main gear will not retract until weight has been removed from the main gear and both struts have extended. The button is powered by the DC essential bus" https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
Avilator Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Regardless of what the BETA manual states, I just loaded up the sim and was able to raise the landing gear lever while holding in the downlock override. I could not raise the lever without holding that switch in. Isn't that the purpose of this switch - to overide the conditions that prevent the lever from being raised? Well, I guess that answers the question. I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!" Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow. -Robert Goddard "A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson "I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly
Feed Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 As a newbie, I may be naive, but shouldn't this be a fairly simple part to create using some aluminum stock (carefully bent) and casting resin? Am I correct that the small round protrusions (from the clear handle) are simply lamp covers, and not a button with some other purpose? I would cast the two halves in resin and use a single bolt to join both halves to each other (capturing 2 LEDs within) while also affixing the handle to the lever. I was eyeing caster wheels at Lowe's today that looked about the right size - maybe built up using some clay to make the mold? ... just a theory.
Deadman Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Check post 52:music_whistling: https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
Feed Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Indeed, Deadman - I was in fact referring to your post. I should have been more clear in saying they're JUST lamp covers as you indicated, and I was just trying to additionally clarify that they have no other function - which appears to be the case. :)
Avilator Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Indeed, Deadman - I was in fact referring to your post. I should have been more clear in saying they're JUST lamp covers as you indicated, and I was just trying to additionally clarify that they have no other function - which appears to be the case. :) You are correct. I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!" Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow. -Robert Goddard "A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson "I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly
Deadman Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 No problem:smilewink: i just thought you had missed it https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
Oakes Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 As a newbie, I may be naive, but shouldn't this be a fairly simple part to create using some aluminum stock (carefully bent) and casting resin? Am I correct that the small round protrusions (from the clear handle) are simply lamp covers, and not a button with some other purpose? I would cast the two halves in resin and use a single bolt to join both halves to each other (capturing 2 LEDs within) while also affixing the handle to the lever. I was eyeing caster wheels at Lowe's today that looked about the right size - maybe built up using some clay to make the mold? ... just a theory. Casting resin is a new thing for me, is this hard to do? Expensive? /Oakes
rocketeer Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Using caster wheel and a rod would be the easiest way to make the gear lever. Examples of gear hangles like that can be found in opencockpits store. http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/landing-gear-lever-b737-p-216.html You can buy the material from home depot and build one for 1/10th of that price. I glued a few pieces of acrylic discs together, then sawed a quarter off to have a flat side, then glue a rectangular piece of wood to it as the handle. Not exactly like the real thing but good enough to me. Casting resin is not exactly cheap. But if you have using it for more than one purpose, eg. making a mold for knobs then you'd save in the long run. I made a dozen mold of various knobs and then made a dozen replicas from each mold. It's not that hard. Just watch youtube for demos. For things like knobs with a flat bottom, it's easy. For irregular shape of 3D stuff you'd have to make half side first, then the other side. then combine to cast the resin. You'd probably have to do it this way for the gear handle. My A10C cockpit thread
rocketeer Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Example of a home made gear lever using caster wheel by someone. http://www.kennair.com.au/Images/Lever/lever1.jpg http://www.kennair.com.au/Images/Lever/lever2.jpg My A10C cockpit thread
Avilator Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Example of a home made gear lever using caster wheel by someone. http://www.kennair.com.au/Images/Lever/lever1.jpg http://www.kennair.com.au/Images/Lever/lever2.jpg The links bring me to "forbidden" pages. I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!" Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow. -Robert Goddard "A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson "I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly
Feed Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 I've seen the caster gear lever - and agree that it's a good, simple, cheap approach, if it's satisfactory for the builder (which is really all that matters). My suggestion for resin casting is simply due to the fact that this part in particular looks like it would be extremely easy to manage. @Oakes - I suppose it depends on what one considers expensive. You'll need material to make the mold, which could be latex rubber, plaster, or almost anything else that wouldn't react/adhere to the casting resin. The resin itself is mixed with a hardening catalyst and poured into the mold. If I remember correctly (it's been a while), a liter of casting resin and bottle of catalyst cost me less than $20. Latex can be had for around $10 a bottle, and plaster is cheap. The main concerns are the ratio of catalyst to resin, and the thickness of the mold, which affects curing time. If anyone had the actual handle, a mold could be made of the actual part, which would be super-cool.
Deadman Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 You have forgotten a few costs associated with good cast especial clear ones a vacuum chamber a pressure chamber the pumps to run them. enough demand so you do not go in the hole for the cost of supplies, the cost of the original item to be cast. This all adds up and i don't think you guys that are all ways saying cheap, cheap would want to spend that much cash:smilewink: https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
Feed Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 While that would certainly be the way to do it RIGHT, I've done this type of casting and it works well enough without the need for any sort of special equipment, especially for such a simple shape. Would I be afraid it might break in a real cockpit - yes. Is it going to cause a problem in your homebuilt simulator? Highly unlikely. As with anything, you can demand absolute perfection, or you can accept trade-offs for money, time, and effort. What's the saying? "Fast, cheap or easy - pick two." :)
rocketeer Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Try this instead. http://www.kennair.com.au/gear.html My A10C cockpit thread
Duckling Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 (edited) Here's another option. I used an older landinggear panel from ebay (non original ofcouse :-) Removed the mechanism and used a saw to "trim" some of the pieces of it and bolted it on a prepared baseplate. No option currently for solenoid-held/blocked lever though. Cost in this case is less then 100$ (not counting the solenoid held anti-skid switch missing in the pics below) Nothing wired yet and havn't descided yet if to risk bending the lever. http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_3.jpg http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_2.jpg http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_1.jpg cheers Gus edit: Missed a pic http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_4.jpg Edited November 3, 2010 by Duckling 1 - - - -
Avilator Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Try this instead. http://www.kennair.com.au/gear.html That one works. Interesting idea. I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!" Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow. -Robert Goddard "A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson "I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly
Deadman Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 Duckling that looks real good if it just had the bend in it you would not be able to tell the difference:thumbup: https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
y2kiah Posted November 3, 2010 Posted November 3, 2010 my plan is to use .063 sheet metal and a box/pan brake I picked up at "the harbor" for 20 bucks. It bends a very nice crease so making a hollow tube will take 3 bends and some JBWeld work on the 4th edge. That will be strong but also let me run wires to the wheel. The ends can be capped with a solid wood block or something for added strength. No idea what I'll do for the wheel yet, if someone casts a good one I'll buy it from them if they are willing. P.S. gus your pit continues to amaze me
pitbldr Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 Gus - off the topic of this thread, but what are you using for your fuel disable switches on the fuel panel? I see what looks like a knob on your panel. I've been looking for a push on/push off switch, but have not found anything suitable yet.
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