HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Well I've decided to start my pit project finally. It really started with the release of A10C and the HOTAS Warthog. Up until that point I just wanted a generic pit that would work for helo, jet, WWI & WWII flying. But something changed I decided I'd got for the Warthog since the options for it are as versatile as the aircraft itself. So last year I began planning and saving first for a HOTAS Warthog and TM MFD's a good place to start I thought. I already had an X-Keys 128 input controller and with the help of Cat_101st obtained a matrix board to help with wiring (see http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=63716 for Cat's board). My older brother (who kicks ass BTW) bought me TM MFD's for X-Mas so all that was left was saving for the HOTAS. About a week ago I finally had the funds and received my new HOTAS. This is where the fun really begins. Unpacking was awesome! Most impressive packaging Something is missing here......... After the initial excitement I had to sit on it for a day or two (yes I just looked at it, the cost of having a busy 1yr old daughter)! I had to use it in the meantime so I went to work settling it in to my existing pit. The old base was for my X-52 (which was gigantic I now see) and wasn't going to work. From here I placed the stick where it was comfortable and centered then traced the round base with a pencil. This after I cut the base with a jigsaw, a quick spray paint job and drilled holes for mounting the stick. Pretty close but I wish I had a table mounted bandsaw for more control and precision. For freehand the circle cut turned out alright. Not so bad! Right where I want it and I don't have to remove my keyboard tray. I'm amazed at the leg room gained vs the old X-52, so much more comfortable. This is when the bug really bit on a new pit. I thought I needed to start somewhere so using dimensions provided by a forum member here work was started on the front panel(I forgot your name and can't find the PM/Email you sent me please sound off if this your work so I can give credit). This has been a project for the last week and when I began I still hadn't used the Warthog HOTAS in game (crazy I know). Sketched out best I could do with tools available. Not bad for having to use my imagination here and there. This is the very helpful dimensions I used provided by the member who's name I can't remember. Now it was time to start cutting the outside edges with a jigsaw (sabre saw if you will). First Cut! Not so bad for freehanding it! After first coat of paint! At this point I'm kinda rushing the project along but I'm nuts when I start stuff like this. I could have sanded the surface smoother used grey paint instead of semi gloss black etc..... Whatever I'm for function over form at this moment! Moving right along to the panel and what it will display. I began sketching the placements for gauges and MFD's. This is where it got interesting for me. I didn't have anything to go on for gauge size or placement other than pics on the web or sim itself so I winged it as best I could. Seeing what they'll look like! Drawn out, good enough for govt. Must cut something now!!!!! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Part 2 of first post.... Last night I finished cutting the gauges out using a basic hole saw set and jigsaw for the larger holes and MFD's. Cutting done! Paint Check! (Yeah I changed to primer grey) MFD's Check! Both MFD's Check! Plexiglass backing! And that's the first couple of chapters on the project. My next bits of planning include using an old projector I have to display the gauges and MFD's in one image using helios. It's all guess work right now and might not even work but at the moment I'm crossing each bridge as I get there. I don't plan to use replica switches and I'm leaving out a few gauges and will probably leave out a few panels when I get to the side consoles. As for the side consoles I using another members work as a base Dimebug. He's done great work creating plans for the side consoles and I'll use that as a starting point but I'll probably modify it to fit my way of doing things (Thanks for your excellent work and inspiration Dime). I owe a lot of ideas, methods and inspiration to many pit builders here and on other sites and I thank you all as you're too many to name! I'll keep updating the progress as I go along. Thanks for reading, Hitch 1 http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geneb Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 You've done a great job there! I look forward to seeing your progress! g. Proud owner of 80-0007. http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of her kind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3instein Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 awesome Awesome,bloody Awesome,excellent work buddy,especially for just crossing bridges as you reach them. :thumbup: Looking forward to the next instalment,the ideas that you sim-pit builders come up with never ceases to inspire.Keep up the good work friend. :book: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]Keep the faith AMD PHENOM II X 4 955be @3.2 GHZ | ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO mb | Corsair XMS3-8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory | Nvidea GTX 580 GDDR5 GPU | CNPS9900 NT cooler | Corsair HX850W psu | Seagate Barracuda 500GB HD 300 MBps - 7200 rpm | WIN 7 64bit | 32" HD LCD TV | 5.1 surround sound | wireless keyboard and mouse | Saitek x45 hotas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feed Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I'm particularly interested in how well it works out using a projector for the gauges - I'm assuming you'll use reverse projection from the back of the panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Geneb/3instein - Thanks! Feed - Yes I plan to use rear projection. This has a few issues though (if it does work out). It needs to be in close proximity to the back of the panel. The front of the pit will need to be enclosed due to light escaping. If the panel is enclosed then venting options need to be applied and a possible fan for cooling. The plexiglass in the last pic was just an added idea and something I had lying around the garage I figured it would give a glass look to proj. image. I'm going to find a light paper to go behind to catch the proj. image. All guessing at this point but we'll see how it goes. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walker450 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Looking good!!!!! Speedpad for Inputs | My Simpit | Joystick Damper Mod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 That looks really good, makes me want to fix some stuff on my pit. i7-4820k @ 3.7, Windows 7 64-bit, 16GB 1866mhz EVGA GTX 970 2GB, 256GB SSD, 500GB WD, TM Warthog, TM Cougar MFD's, Saitek Combat Pedals, TrackIR 5, G15 keyboard, 55" 4K LED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuky Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Nice start... now you just keep going... make a break here and there... and it'll turn out awesome ;) No longer active in DCS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98abaile Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I'll be honest, it looks great, but I'm actually more interested in that collective you have in the first image. Can we get some pictures of that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Thanks for the comments guys! 98abaile - It's just a Saitek Aviator turned up check out my thread below it was a pretty simple project that anyone can do. That thread covers most everything I've worked on up to this point. I had and still have relatively no experience at this stuff but it's fun and challenging. http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2711990/Re_A_Good_Joystick_to_Hack.html#Post2711990 I did get to do a quick projection test last night (no pictures) and ran into a few problems and some possible solutions. To get an image that covered the panel I need about 3 ft spacing from proj to panel. At that length it makes the front of the pit just too long/too big. So I have a first surface mirror lying around and played with bouncing an image off it. It worked but I may end up moving my MFD's in towards center to further save on space the proj. will use. As you can see I can move those in an inch or two to save some more space. The next problem will be (if I end up going this route) will be mounting the proj. out of the way so it doesn't block the image. I'm not sure how I'll do this yet but I didn't spend much time thinking through alternatives. The mirror will have to be mounted spot on too if this is to work. I'm thinking of building a temporary frame for the panel to stand up on and a shelf for the proj. Then I can play around with mirror placement. Last nights test wasn't great since I was holding a mirror with one hand, the panel with the other and sliding the proj. on the floor with my foot LOL! I'll spend more time tonight and try and pick up the paper I want to try as a screen. The proj. I'm using is an older Infocus LP640 (1024x768 max res.) it's pretty big too. As for first surface mirrors you can salvage them out of old rear proj. TVs. They're big enough to cut in half and end up with two mirrors. So if you have old proj. TV or a neighbor does and they're upgrading to a flat panel try to get the mirror before throwing it out. The mirrors online are pretty expensive when I checked a while back. I'll try and take some pics tonight. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbldr Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 That's looking nice Hitch!! Have you thought about trying rear projection? I've seen where you can buy the material for rear projection in custom sizes. I have a couple projectors and played around with doing that myself. But then I decided that I'll just use a 27" monitor behind my panel - mainly cause I'm lazy! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Yeah thats pretty much what I'll be doing. With the mirror it will be rear rear projection lol! I'd probably be better off with a monitor but I don't have one lying around that's big enough. With the exception of my collection of controllers and piece of MDF I bought, everything I've had lying around the garage so far. I'm to cheap to save up for a monitor. And besides after finally getting Warthog HOTAS I've used up my spending cash for a while. I'm married with a kid which is why its taken so long just to get to this point. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbldr Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Oh, I didn't think I read you were planning rear projection. I'll be very interested in how it turns out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duckling Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Great start Hitch. Cheers Gus - - - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 Well I had another chance to do a proj. test last night and the results are good I think it will work out. With the first surface mirror I'll need 2ft from the panel to mirror. As for screen material I just used regular copy paper (standard stuff). I was so impressed with the image on the paper I think I'll cover the glass with it. I had to move the MFD's in quite a bit towards center but it was the best way. Some of the pics below are a little fuzzy (iPhone camera) but still worth a thousand words. Which by the way is the reason I'm taking so many pictures to begin with given this is an international forum. After moving in the MFD I'll have a little gap to fill and section to cut out. Not a big deal. Same for other side. For this test I just taped a piece of copy paper over the plexiglass. Mirror is kinda hard to make out but you get the idea. The beast of a proj. I'm using! Just a rough test but it works now I just have to work out the kinks! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 I found even more time tonight to work on my panel. My main objectives were to re-cut the openings for the MFD's and work on applying Paper to the plexiglass. I also managed to cut the outline of the landing gear panel and arming panel. My first steps were cutting these out and using the cut off wood to fill in the gap. Turned out OK a little rough IMO. It will make it much easier to catch the image with a little less throw distance from the proj. Starting to apply paper (free lol), I used a paper cutter to keep everything neat and straight. I luckily had some of this glue lying around. Finished for this part at least. Used wood glue to fill in the cracks, I'll sand it down before the next coat of paint. Cut these two panels out and sanded the edges to make the a little rounded. These didn't come out exact (mainly the arming panel) and I'm noticing where I rushed a little too fast in the beginning. In any case I'm going for function in the end. Now I'm going to take a step back and think about where this is going next. The next part is going to be complicated since I need to build the section in pieces so it will fit thru the doorways. Everything will have to be modular or stay in the garage http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Its looking awesome! Keep it coming! F-14D COCKPIT PROJECT http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k580/mykinge/F14D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Thanks Pepe! Made some more progress today. I need the cable to come out the back not bottom so I'm going to modify these a bit. If you notice where the cable goes there is already a channel molded to hold the cable in place. I'm going to cut out using the channel as a guide. I don't want cables in front....... This ought to do it.... One down. All good. I cut a channel for the cable to run through to the back. I almost broke my plexiglass here using a hole saw bit so I could fit the USB end through. I can be pretty impatient when I want to and I almost paid for it big time! With that finished I wanted to figure out an easy way to attach my landing gear & arming panels. I decided to use threaded wood inserts ( 1/4" size). The left panel didn't have enough room on front panel to attach the two corners missing screws. I say screw it (no pun intended). That's it for today now I'm back to brainstorming where to go next. I need to have my first surface mirror cut down to a manageable size. Then I need to figure out how I'm going to mount the mirror, projector and build an enclosure around it in which everything fits and breaks down into pieces I can fit through the sim room door! Easy right? I need a beer............... http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron886 Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Looks great! Nice job getting the TM MFD wires out of the way. Do you plan on adding another coat of paint to that panel? I may have just missed it in another of your posts, but a good fit finish would add to the overall look I'd say! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Thanks Aaron, Not sure if I'm going to sand down the panel nice and smooth since the wood I'm working with is really rough (really wish I'd used MDF). Right now I'm working on functionality and getting that accomplished is a project in itself. In the end I just want something that works and adds killer immersion, when and/or if I get there I'll probably wish I spent more time on the finish...... hindsight it always 20/20 lol! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Succellus Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Nice work HaF 922, Asus rampage extreme 3 gene, I7 950 with Noctua D14, MSI gtx 460 hawk, G skill 1600 8gb, 1.5 giga samsung HD. Track IR 5, Hall sensed Cougar, Hall sensed TM RCS TM Warthog(2283), TM MFD, Saitek pro combat rudder, Cougar MFD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 you can cover the wood with evergreen plastic sheet, use very thin ones.. easy to cut, paint and will give you a fantastic result for a very little cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Dimebug thanks for the suggestion I'll look into it, at this point it's still easy to take it apart and add little touches. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 there's some really thin ones and the result is greater than wood. Whatever, you choice for multiply wood instead of medium is good, medium doesn't like painting and mechanically, have a poor reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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