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Posted (edited)
Thanks. Also here is a shot of some unmanaged wiring while I work on the firmware.

 

 

Do you have any idea how many people, myself included, want a copy of the book that is under your project?

 

Over $300 on Amazon (a bit under $300 used).

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Hog-Guide--10-Warthog/dp/0979506425/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324428749&sr=8-1

 

I am jealous.;)

Edited by cichlidfan

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

Posted

Wow. I should treat it better. For that kind of money I might be willing to part with it

 

Glad I got it before it went out of print.

Posted

Damn, I have $300 just sitting on my desk? :surprise:

I only respond to that little mechanical voice that says "Terrain! Terrain! Pull Up! Pull Up!"

 

Who can say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow.

-Robert Goddard

 

"A hybrid. A car for enthusiasts of armpit hair and brown rice." -Jeremy Clarkson

 

"I swear by my pretty floral bonet, I will end you." -Mal from Firefly

Posted

Looking great!! :thumbup:

 

One tip on the button assembly. I create an "assembler" which is just two pieces of .125" plywood that I glue together after I cut out the openings for the button pieces. The ensures the two pieces are aligned perfectly when I glue them up and I think it also speeds up the assembly time.

 

I plan on buying all the eletronics from you for this once you're all finished developing these. I already have the panel, but will probably need to adjust the size of the opening for the display you're using.

 

Thanks for your continued support of our hobby!! :D

Posted
Looking great!! :thumbup:

 

One tip on the button assembly. I create an "assembler" which is just two pieces of .125" plywood that I glue together after I cut out the openings for the button pieces. The ensures the two pieces are aligned perfectly when I glue them up and I think it also speeds up the assembly time.

 

I plan on buying all the eletronics from you for this once you're all finished developing these. I already have the panel, but will probably need to adjust the size of the opening for the display you're using.

 

Thanks for your continued support of our hobby!! :D

 

Thanks.

 

BTW I just found an error on your the CMSP... you have NWS instead of MWS. Off to re-engrave and cut the faceplates :music_whistling:

Posted
Thanks.

 

BTW I just found an error on your the CMSP... you have NWS instead of MWS. Off to re-engrave and cut the faceplates :music_whistling:

 

Ah.... sorry about that. I looked at all panels for so long when I designed them, that I missed a few typos here and there. Suggestion though before you redo entire plates. You could try taping off the areas around the mistake and then just repaint/engrave that area. I assume you have a template you used to help align the plates when you engraved them and if so, this will work pretty well. I've done it a few times in some of my projects. The trickiest part is getting enough paint put down to cover it, but no so much it stands out. One idea I've had but have yet to try is using paint pens to repair mistakes/scratches on panels. My wife uses them with her scrapbooking and I think it might work well for something like this. Worth a try at least if it saves time and materials.

Posted

Unfortunately I use LaserMax for the faceplates instead of just engraving through paint, so repainting and engraving is difficult. Also one of the limitations of the "cheap" laser I got was it's horrible cutting bed. I have to manually remove and add shims to change the bed height. This means the laser grid (aluminum egg crate) is not fixed so there is no way to create a jig for registration, so no touch ups.

 

It's not really a big deal, I should have checked better before cutting them out. At least it's only the faceplate and all the already painted parts are fine.

Posted

EOS CMSP panel that whether use your Bus interface shield and ardino for connection?

 

Now i make your Bus interface shield, but i don't understand your shield can connect what

Posted
EOS CMSP panel that whether use your Bus interface shield and ardino for connection?

 

Now i make your Bus interface shield, but i don't understand your shield can connect what

 

The CMSP panel can either communicate directly to a computer via an RS-232 Serial to USB cable, or it can connect to an EOS RS-485 bus controlled by a EOS interfere shield via a twisted pair wire. Either way the panel speaks the EOS protocol which is contained with in the EOS Libraries. I will be publishing more on it later. The CMSP panel is the first real panel and it will flesh out the validity of the protocol.

 

I will also be publishing a .Net library and command line tools to interact with EOS boards either via direct serial or your own program. Lastly I will create a GUI in Helios to configure and bind EOS boards to simulations.

Posted (edited)

1. Really thank you very much, I will post my Bus interface shield later, althought i don't know whether the parts of resistance enough, i.e. 18pF, 16Mhz, 0.1uF , since you don't give fully parts of information for your shield, but i wil try to make myself from your design, thank you again

 

2. Otherwise, i think the CMSP's display should use 20 x 2 green on black led screen, since i saw the game is 20 x 2 display,

 

3. i whether buy or make the Led screen shield for arduino now? and then waiting you?

Edited by moken
Posted

All the values are on the schematic you can find here. As I've said before EOS is not a pick up and play kind of setup. If you don't have a rudementory skill set at least to be able to read a schematic you will have a rough time of it. While I love to help people you'll have to learn some basic electronics on your own.

Posted

You are not the only one......

 

I look at my pit and cry.....

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

Posted

it never gets old looking at those machines in action and building a CNC router/engraver is something i wanted to do for long long time. space was always a premium however and even building a DIY one is not that cheap. so for now i'm trolling ebay for deals on linear bearings and such. some day, some day. it is great that you can combine hobby and work (i assume that CNC is for work mainly). and great job.

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

Posted
it never gets old looking at those machines in action and building a CNC router/engraver is something i wanted to do for long long time. space was always a premium however and even building a DIY one is not that cheap. so for now i'm trolling ebay for deals on linear bearings and such. some day, some day. it is great that you can combine hobby and work (i assume that CNC is for work mainly). and great job.

 

Sorry Gadroc, this is not on topic but one place I got my linear rails from for my cnc was here http://stores.ebay.com/linearmotionbearings

 

The stuff is very good and if money can stretch get a watercooled spindle. Quiet as hell and lots of grunt as well at the computer can control the speed using the VFD.

 

I have spent a few grand with him and no incidents at all.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Gadroc, how is that laser machine going for you?

 

I have a number of things that my CNC router is not the best for and I am looking at getting one as well. My workshop s running out of space and another 6.5 x 6.5 foot machine isnot going to help though! I am ooking at one with a 1500x1200mm working area (59"x47") but still deciding exactly what power to go for. I want good engraving performance but at the same time want to cut through some thicker material if needed.

 

I need to do a bit more research on that but figure I don't want more than 100W if I want reasonable engraving..

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