Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I wondered about making the parts for dzus fasteners on the lathe, just to get the looks of it. I guess if there are a hundred screws I could knock them out in a couple hours. Boring job though!

 

The other alternatives I looked at before were cup washers, like this http://hiq.co.nz/plastic-components.htm

 

just look down a little bit, they will only be a couple cents each and are available m3, m4, m5 etc. Just lie them all down and spray them black, pop in the bolt and you wont know the difference from the looks

Edited by metalnwood
Posted

I just spotted the DZUS rails by pure luck on ebay. Still not cheap but about 1/3 of the price that I saw on Viperpits.

 

There's also someone on ebay who offers "Dzus fasteners receptacles retainers 72 pcs slots" for about $50 on a regular basis. I can't find it at the moment, but if you look for a week or two he might show up again. It's actually only 24 DZUS studs but it also includes 24 L shaped one hole receptacles (not excatly a rail but the next best thing to work with).

 

The idea with the cup washers is a nice one, but it looks like the kind of plastic paint won't stick to. So I guess you won't be happy with it in the long run. There are several offers for DZUS replicas:

 

http://www.simworld.pl/shop/product_info.php?products_id=25

 

http://www.simparts.de/DZUS-Replica

 

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/aluminium-dzus-fastener-p-211.html?cPath=24_57

 

I hope this helps,

Stefan

Posted

Got a batch of the DZUS from opencockpits pre-painted grey so the black went on fine. 6.00Eur for 6 or 5.00Eur unpainted, still figuring out if 1.00Eur less is worth the hazel of priming. To mount them i'm using 3mm Aluminium Angle and going to drill a hole slightly smaller than the nut and use a vice to push fit into the hole.

IMAG0044.thumb.jpg.b4f6c3cf915920b6613fed47e7081fe2.jpg

IMAG0045.thumb.jpg.d3d8ccfeada626eff05db78ec8fa3c48.jpg

IMAG0049.thumb.jpg.672841d1b3abe061f562aaf79848df51.jpg

Posted (edited)

Huh. I've never seen the cup washer. As a line mechanic for many, many years, I got very used to the dzus system. I used the old countersinking a stand-off for the AHCP panel. Now that I'm on the side rails, just thinking how simple it would be to be able to put the panels in quickly with dzus instead of alternative.

 

picture.php?albumid=767&pictureid=5573

Edited by MacFevre

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

Posted
MacFevre you don't need to use DZUS on the AHCP it uses Philips head screws

 

Ummm... Yeah! I knew that. :music_whistling: Actually, that's good to know. Looks like I have 4 new fasteners. And I thought I was being clever. ;)

 

Dropship, thanks for the ideas. Looking forward to watching you finish your build.

 

*off topic side note: DM, I think you you ought to have a PayPal donate link on your personal profile so that people (like myself) who have learned from your knowledge can at least buy you a beer every once in awhile! Cheers! :beer:

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

It's time for another update:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=83756&stc=1&d=1371495659

 

As you can see there are some added details to the cable bracket and it's now fixed to the seat. Then I made the two quick disconnectors (wood and aluminium construction) for the ballistic lines as well as the mounting brackets. Got the fittings for the ballistic lines todays so I was able to add those as well. Looks easy, but getting the fittings onto the hose after adding the black shrink wrap to the bare metal hoses was quite a challange!

With some stickers it should look fine...

 

Cheers,

DSP

 

PS: Remind me to take a picture of the other side as well. :music_whistling:

SAM_0824s.thumb.jpg.fa741b0fc1c61670265248b9c5833090.jpg

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Is there any way you can incorporate a hipflask, optic or can of beer into the setup - you know, seems a shame to have all that just for visual aids, but if it can shoot a measure of JD straight into your cake hole, well im in....

Posted
Do you have measures for that seat pan that you can share?

 

Shouldn't be a problem. Just get me a sketch with the dimensions you need labeled A,B,C,.... .

 

Is there any way you can incorporate a hipflask, optic or can of beer into the setup

 

Oh, it's easy to swap the oxygen bottle for more important things... :D

 

Cheers,

DSP

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Trying not to sound like a smart ass - but have you thought about using rivets for the rivets?

 

See if you can grab somoe 1/8" MS20470AD4, -2 or so length, universal head rivets - then just lay out your 'rivet spacing', drill and just glue em in depending on your seat material, I wouldn't recommend actually 'riveting' them in if your seat is metal without either a squeeze riveter or a lot of experience with a rivet gun! Can get ugly real fast lol.

 

Available at places like.... http://www.airpartsinc.com/shopexd.asp?id=192 Rivets don't cost too much.

 

Would imagine they would look the part...

Edited by VampireNZ

Vampire

Posted

I mainly got the upholstery nails because my seat is wooden and I could simply go round with a hammer and just knock them in at regular intervals but thinking about it now. Dropship's seat is metal so it would make more sense to use rivets! I've always thought of the smaller "pop rivets" and must never really have made much of a connection to the ones used in ACES II. I guess it really depends on the material. Those rivets are about the same price as upholstery nails as well so I guess you can go either way.

Posted

I used a mix of rivets, upholstery nails and round head screws to simulate the rivets depending on size and availability. Screws were used in areas where I need access for easy transport and maintainance.

 

Cheers,

DSP

Posted (edited)

Yep - just lay out your lines where you want them, mark and drill small 1/8th inch holes (just deep enough for the rivet to sit in - no need to go all the way thru!) at the approrpiate rivet spacings and just glue em in with your glue of choice and paint - won't look more legit than that!

 

 

http://www.rivetbangers.com/documents/AC43.13-1b.pdf

 

Check that out for all you ever wanted to know about rivets spacing etc lol. Oh and yea the MS20470AD4-* is pretty much far and away the most common rivet used in most aircraft construction so a safe bet.

Edited by VampireNZ

Vampire

Posted
Dropship's seat is metal so it would make more sense to use rivets!

 

Actually, most of the seat is build from particle board, because initially it was only inteded as a simple setup to test the seating position. Then I added more and more details....

If I had to do it again, I'd use good plywood. You need a lot of filler to get smooth rounded corners with particle board! :music_whistling:

 

Cheers,

DSP

Posted

Then, to make the rivets look really authentic, every once in awhile make sure you hammer a "smiley" into them, ;) (Never liked pounding rivets, nor general hangar type work. Working on the line, you don't often get the chance to get out the rivet gun. When you do though, it's usually a patch that gets the occasional smiley pounded into them, and when you do screw it up, you get the chance to drill it out and get more practice. :D)

 

I think you've made a great looking seat!

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

And finally: the finished seat.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=93245&stc=1&d=1390150981

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=93246&stc=1&d=1390150981

 

Actually there are still a few things missing like the redar hose and the buckles for the survival kit, but those will be added when I find them.

 

Next step will be the pit floor with the stick and the pedals....

SAM_0866_s.thumb.jpg.1f45c74cba0a81a1c9c8b3d93391c06e.jpg

SAM_0861_s.thumb.jpg.ad80a3ab53d78ea0bec74658383cf6b2.jpg

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...