TomDK Posted February 6, 2013 Posted February 6, 2013 1 x Option 2 for me please !! :thumbup: My old, sold, pit: http://bilder.einzelart.de/thumbnails.php?album=74&page=3
agrasyuk Posted February 11, 2013 Author Posted February 11, 2013 Important note: it was brought ot my attention that the hight of the panel (200mm) is about 6~7mm shorter then original. the witdh of 100mm is spot on however ok, another slight addition to design. since i can not get Tom to answer what he wants for his Downlock override button I decided to make my own button... J/K Tom :) , i actualy wanted a more realistic looking override myself and got an idea how to accomplish. this is designed to be installed after the LDG lever assembly is in place and can be attached or removed without disturbing the lever. the main goal was to prevent the long protruding button from jamming when applying side forces. rod still to be painted. baseplate for the lever got an update and new parts got added to kit. again the parts are designed symmetrical to avoid mistakes during assembly button and rod holder add-on assembled. rod is a ~8.2mm wooden dowel. Longer travel takt button glued to place (will be provided. again to make sure exact fit). rod to be glued to the detachable white cap of the button. portion of the rod protruding from the face of the panel will be sanded smooth and painted metalic red. ADD: End Result. Painted Metalic Aluminum first coat and transparent red second coat. Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
agrasyuk Posted February 13, 2013 Author Posted February 13, 2013 thanks Guys. since i did see immediate interest i tried myself at producing more parts at once. i guess i brought myself into situation of slight confusion by not announcing "doing a run of X panels". will be digging myself out i guess :) i do have bunch of parts already made, started composing the requested kits while i take pictures of various assembly stages. So far: Duckling (gauge) - shipped grayson - shipped TomDK - wide panel with gauge. 99% complete AlbertK - full kit 80% complete Jimbo - full kit 80% complete Woogey - Mirrored panel with straight lever. waiting for drawings of final version bnepethomas - some parts ready jocko417 - some parts ready i will contact you guys with PP information once everything on checklist is ready regards Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
DEChengst Posted February 13, 2013 Posted February 13, 2013 Looks great would like to have one package 2 without the gauge. I'm already using a bunch of Simmeters instruments and for ease of control I really prefer to combine your panel with their flap gauge: http://www.simmeters.com/mechanical-and-systems-indicators/127-flap-indicator.html I need to know for sure that it fits though: http://wiki.simmeters.com/index.php/USB_Gauges At the moment I'm using front mounting for all the other instruments. [sigpic][/sigpic] PDP, VAX and Alpha fanatic ; HP-Compaq is the Satan! ; Let us pray daily while facing Maynard! ; Life starts at 150 km/h
agrasyuk Posted February 13, 2013 Author Posted February 13, 2013 Their website says that to front mount that gauge 50mm opening is needed. By a strange coincidence (;) ) that's exactly the size of my opening so it will work as is . you will only need to drill mounting holes through the 3 layers (should be easy as you already have the gauge as stencil) But!! they are not very attractive looking gauges from the front IMHO it will look much better to back mount them. Or at least add a bezel on top to cover the assembly screws. Can help you do either. Let me know what you think Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
Deadman Posted February 13, 2013 Posted February 13, 2013 Very rarely does a 50mm peg fit exactly in a 50mm hole a bit of gap is normally needed say 2 mm ;) https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
DEChengst Posted February 14, 2013 Posted February 14, 2013 The screws in the front don't look too bad to me. Biggest drawback actually with mounting the gauge in front is that the sides are ugly and need a bezel. Thinking about it a bezel around a single gauge won't look too great so it's better to mount the gauge behind the panel. That has one drawback for me though. I would need to line up the gauge, drill the four holes and prevent chipping at the same time. That may be tricky to do with just a handdrill. I guess my question is: How much trouble would it be for you to reprogram the CNC and add the four M4 holes for me like this: http://wiki.simmeters.com/images/2/2c/Layout_60_mm_back.png [sigpic][/sigpic] PDP, VAX and Alpha fanatic ; HP-Compaq is the Satan! ; Let us pray daily while facing Maynard! ; Life starts at 150 km/h
agrasyuk Posted February 14, 2013 Author Posted February 14, 2013 Deadman, from established manufacturer like simmeters i would expect exacly what they specified. i would be surprised to no end if it is not within 0.1mm tolerance. but your point is well taken, i'll make sure to caliper the opening in my product. DEChengst, sure, i could do that . 4 holes according to the pattern in the back plate, and say 7mm holes to house the screw heads in the middle layer (and the top stays clean). but that places the gauge somewhat deep, no? Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
Deadman Posted February 14, 2013 Posted February 14, 2013 you have missed the point you need to leave some gap when making things Deadman, from established manufacturer like simmeters i would expect exacly what they specified. i would be surprised to no end if it is not within 0.1mm tolerance. but your point is well taken, i'll make sure to caliper the opening in my product. DEChengst, sure, i could do that . 4 holes according to the pattern in the back plate, and say 7mm holes to house the screw heads in the middle layer (and the top stays clean). but that places the gauge somewhat deep, no? https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
agrasyuk Posted February 15, 2013 Author Posted February 15, 2013 Not sure why you gathered that, the "peg' will obviously have to be smaller, hard to argue that. the only question is by how much. my gauge "lens" is about 0.5-0.75mm smaller then the opening and IMHO it is to much. but it will not matter at all if the simmeters product is to be back-mounted Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
Deadman Posted February 15, 2013 Posted February 15, 2013 Their website says that to front mount that gauge 50mm opening is needed. By a strange coincidence ( ) that's exactly the size of my opening so it will work as is . your contradicting your self Not sure why you gathered that, the "peg' will obviously have to be smaller, hard to argue that. the only question is by how much. my gauge "lens" is about 0.5-0.75mm smaller then the opening and IMHO it is to much. but it will not matter at all if the simmeters product is to be back-mounted https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
DEChengst Posted February 16, 2013 Posted February 16, 2013 I could do that . 4 holes according to the pattern in the back plate, and say 7mm holes to house the screw heads in the middle layer (and the top stays clean). but that places the gauge somewhat deep, no? I thought about that and it's actually one of the reasons I placed all the other instruments in front of the panel. With the landing gear panel I think both options aren't optimal, so I guess I'll have to compromise. My pit is a bit of a frankenpit anyway so I guess I can live with that within reasonable limits. How far back would the gauge be when mounted behind the panel ? [sigpic][/sigpic] PDP, VAX and Alpha fanatic ; HP-Compaq is the Satan! ; Let us pray daily while facing Maynard! ; Life starts at 150 km/h
agrasyuk Posted February 18, 2013 Author Posted February 18, 2013 panel combined thickness is 7.5 mm. the gauge will be that far back. IMHO front mount will be better then backmount here. since you ok with the look of mounting screws you will not need top bezel. Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
grayson Posted February 18, 2013 Posted February 18, 2013 My package from Anton arrived this morning and gentlemen believe me this is work of the highest order, the level of attention to detail and completeness of parts has to be seen. If anybody is in two minds about this,get on board now, you won`t be disappointed A big thumbs up to Anton, all the best Grayson
Duckling Posted February 19, 2013 Posted February 19, 2013 Hi Anton. A pic of your FlapGuage in my 'landingpanel'. Servo connected and interfaced to SIOC and the gauge backlight/needle now controlled by AUX INSTrument pot on the Lights Quad. You made a great work. Many thanks Cheers Gus - - - -
TomDK Posted February 19, 2013 Posted February 19, 2013 WoW !!! I am looking forward for my set !! Great !!! My old, sold, pit: http://bilder.einzelart.de/thumbnails.php?album=74&page=3
agrasyuk Posted February 19, 2013 Author Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the positive reviews guys. Do let me know how everything is holding up as time goes by and if any concerns arise or if you need replacement parts. Gus, the gauge face plate is a bit tilted , i take it you didn't secure it to the gauge itself? Tom, yours ships tomorrow. see PM Edited February 20, 2013 by agrasyuk Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
Duckling Posted February 20, 2013 Posted February 20, 2013 Gus, the gauge face plate is a bit tilted , i take it you didn't secure it to the gauge itself? Correct, Not yet. Still have some work to do on the quad so i'll adjust it next time I open it up. Guard between mag and light switch remains and also the texures over the gear lights. [ I need to adjust the LEDs resistors also, I grabbed what I had at hand so if someone react at the span of intensity note that it's due to my setup and not to the gauge itself] It's amazing how much a working gauge adds to the flavour, hehe. - - - -
TulsA-10 Posted February 21, 2013 Posted February 21, 2013 Has anyone tried to use a phidgets usb servo controller via helios? I believe gadroc has added phidget servo controllers to helios. http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=11&product_id=1061_1 " I'm gonna have to be taking your car today. See I have some top secret clown business that supersedes any plans that you might have for this here vehicle."
agrasyuk Posted February 22, 2013 Author Posted February 22, 2013 Tulsa, i read it should work, but haven't tried it , and actually not going to try. 100$ to animate single servo (in my case) is a bit to much. BHawthorne, i will do one more if you interested. but otherwise "preorders' are closed - i'm preparing to move to our new place in 4 weeks hopefully will update the thread with status later tonight Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
Flim Posted February 22, 2013 Posted February 22, 2013 Cool, moving so you can have room for the cube!
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