Boltz's A-10 Build

[Warhog]

Nice work Calum. It looks almost identical to mine. The only real difference is that I use an Easy Drive board to run the motor. The ED board only needs 2 pins, one for step and one for direction instead of 4 pins and it costs almost nothing ($1.80 I think).

 

The code below is what I am using for mine and it works very well indeed. You may notice that the scale on the gauge face is not exactly linear. We needed to adjust the mapping of the export values to account of the differences in the scale. I would like to give credit to Ian for this work. He was mostly the author of this sketch which, for the most part, is still somewhat over my head. But I am learning more every day.

Thank you Ian!:thumbup:

 

As to the code below, you are more than welcome to give it a try Calum. I hope it will save you some time.

 

#define DCSBIOS_DEFAULT_SERIAL
//#define DCSBIOS_RS485_SLAVE 13
//#define TXENABLE_PIN A2


#include <AccelStepper.h>
#include "DcsBios.h"
AccelStepper vviMotor(AccelStepper::DRIVER, 11, 10);

struct StepperConfig {
 unsigned int maxSteps;
 unsigned int acceleration;
 unsigned int maxSpeed;
};


class Vid29Stepper : public DcsBios::Int16Buffer {
 private:
   AccelStepper& stepper;
   StepperConfig& stepperConfig;
   unsigned int (*map_function)(unsigned int);
   unsigned char initState;
 public:
   Vid29Stepper(unsigned int address, AccelStepper& stepper, StepperConfig& stepperConfig, unsigned int (*map_function)(unsigned int))
   : Int16Buffer(address), stepper(stepper), stepperConfig(stepperConfig), map_function(map_function), initState(0) {
   }

   virtual void loop() {
     if (initState == 0) { // not initialized yet
       stepper.setMaxSpeed(stepperConfig.maxSpeed);
       stepper.setAcceleration(stepperConfig.acceleration);
       stepper.moveTo(-((long)stepperConfig.maxSteps));
       initState = 1;
     }
     if (initState == 1) { // zeroing
       stepper.run();
       if (stepper.currentPosition() <= -((long)stepperConfig.maxSteps)) {
         stepper.setCurrentPosition(0);
         initState = 2;
         stepper.moveTo(stepperConfig.maxSteps/2);
       }
     }
     if (initState == 2) { // running normally
       if (hasUpdatedData()) {
         unsigned int newPosition = map_function(getData());
         newPosition = constrain(newPosition, 0, stepperConfig.maxSteps);
         stepper.moveTo(newPosition);
       }
       stepper.run();
     }
   }
};

struct StepperConfig emiStepperConfig = {
 1360,  // maxSteps
 1200, // maxSpeed
 10000 // acceleration
 };



Vid29Stepper vvi(0x106e, vviMotor, emiStepperConfig, [](unsigned int newValue) -> unsigned int {

 unsigned int absValue;
 if (newValue >= 32768) {
   absValue = newValue - 32768;
 } else {
   absValue = 32768 - newValue;
 }

 /*
  * 315 deg / 1360 steps
  * 
  0.29   9502     1000 fpm       50 deg    201 steps
  0.50   16384    2000 fpm       84 deg    338 steps
  1.00   32768    6000 fpm      169 deg    680 steps
  */

 unsigned int newSetpoint = 0;
 if (absValue < 9502) {
   newSetpoint = map(absValue, 0, 9502, 0, 201);
 } else if (absValue < 16384) {
   newSetpoint = map(absValue, 9502, 16384, 201, 338);
 } else {
   newSetpoint = map(absValue, 16384, 32768, 338, 680);
 }
 newSetpoint = constrain(newSetpoint, 0, 680);

 if (newValue < 32768) {
   // negative fpm
   return newSetpoint + 680;
 } else {
   // positive fpm
   return 680 - newSetpoint;
 }
 
 }); 


void setup() {

 DcsBios::setup();
 
 
}

void loop() {
 DcsBios::loop();
}

[Boltz]

Wiring for OSRAM displays on CMSP is done

 

For locking toggle switches other than 12TWs I plan to use the NKK switches and turn new caps to create the Cutler switch. They'll thread nicely onto the shaft of these switches

 

I'm also designing conversion of real 2 inch tubes for engine instruments.

 

This will work for converting old cheap 2 inch instruments to stepper driven with correct faceplates. I'll include backlighting to see what it looks like but in the end these will likely be front lit.

 

I managed to buy a 100W laser engraver and also a CNC6040 from eBay very cheaply so I'm waiting for them to arrive now. I don't expect anything amazing since they are cheap chinese made but I have money left to upgrade and get them running. After hearing horror stories of the "blue box" the CNC comes with I'll probably end up using a Gecko G540 drive. Then I can start cutting the instrument parts and some other parts. I've purchased materials as well to try making some panels but I know it will take a while just to get the machines set up and running to a good standard. Looking forward to it though.

 

 

The machines should be here by the weekend so I'd like to get some test parts designed

[Gadroc]

Looking great! Congrats on the new CNC machines... boy is that a dangerous part of this hobby. I've gotten lost in playing with them and making them better.

[agrasyuk]

Good to hear from you again , and awesome you dabbled into the CNC madness :) so much more possibilities now. Do however prepare as far as ventilation for the Laser

[MacFevre]

Again, gotta say Calum, you're really doing a fantastic job! Please keep up the updates, (unlike myself ;),) because they really do help everyone a lot. Thanks for that!

[Cali]

Great job on the pit!

[Boltz]

Thanks guys. Looking forward to trying out CNC work. Got 4 of the 3 position locking switches in for EW panel and a Grayhill rotary to be modified to add the correct pull action

 

A few more hours work and I got the EW displays done. At least the first version is working. I'd like to tidy it up in the future. In last picture the flash cancelled out the lights but it does show the displays nicely

 

 

Still need to balance the brightness and wire up the pot to control it.

[Warhog]

That looks sooooo nice Calum. Well done.:thumbup:

[Hansolo]

Couldn't agree more. Top work Calum :thumbup:

 

Do you have a link to the two types of Osram's? I have some Osram's but they are all same size. Looking forward for more picture my good Sir

 

Cheers

Hans

[Boltz]

Thanks John. STill need to connect up the switches

 

Hans I'm on my phone at the moment but top row displays are SLG2016 and lower row HDSP2003LP. If I was doing it again I would just use 8 units of 2016. They are nearer to drive and look better at the moment. I need to get the code for the 2003 devices running faster. Also then the dimming function will work better if they are all the same.

 

Which displays do you have?

[Deadman]

Now that looks fantastic!! great Job.

[Hansolo]

Hi Calum,

 

Thanks for the numbers. I have gotten hold of some PDSP1881. The character height is the same as yours but the spacing on mine are a little bigger and it 8 digits displays. There is a datasheet for mine here; http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/311/00036139_0-280291.pdf

 

And the SLG2016 datasheet is here; http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/311/XY%20Stackable%200.180%20%20%20%20%204-Digit%205x7%20Dot%20Matrix_%20Alp-335281.pdf

 

Cheers

Hans

[Boltz]

After much back and forth regarding eBay purchases, turns out they were not going to show up so eBay gave me a refund. All is not lost though, I've gone back to previous plans and received a very satisfying delivery today. I know at least one person here will identify it immediately :) Thanks so much for convincing me nearly two years ago about this. Only wish I had bought it sooner

 

[Hansolo]

Did you get a Taig milling machine? Warhog will definitly appreciated this. Congratulations on your purchase Calum :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans

[Boltz]

Yes I did build quality is absolutely outstanding on it. Just waiting for the rest of the parts now:thumbup:

[Warhog]

Congratulations Calum. Your potential for creating excellence has just been presented to you. There isn't much that machine can't do as you've seen from my work. Spend some time on Nick Carter tools web site. Lots of users on there with some great ideas.

 

Once you learn to master this machine you will be amazed at what you can do with it. And not to worry, I'll be here if you need help.

John

[Lobinjaevel]

Boltz, what green plastic did you use on the EW panel, for the Osram displays?

Having a hard time finding it here in Sweden.

 

Cheers!

[MacFevre]

Nice new toy, Calum!

[Boltz]

Thanks guys. I'm still waiting on more parts at the moment.

 

@Lobinjaevel User agrasyuk designed and made the brilliant panel. hopefully he can help with what material to use

[agrasyuk]

Ah, missed that question, sorry.

 

Lobi, It's ordinary green transparent acrylic sheet material. Similar: http://r.ebay.com/W1fsMj

 

Calum, looking very good. Sorry about the delay, still need to get the buttons redone. Next year looks more likely )

[Lobinjaevel]

Thanks guys!

[Boltz]

Last parts I needed for the mill finally arrived today and got it up and running. Bit of tweaking and changing numbers and this is first engraving. Small font is 10 point font (~3.5mm)

 

 

I'm very happy with this machine and working on a first panel to test engraving. Then I need to change to 6mm acrylic and get a proper lightplate made.

[Warhog]

Looks great Calum. Just what I would have expected. With a finer tip you can get 6pt. lettering. I use Arial as my basic font. It engraves better than most others fonts as single line fonts are hard to fine.

 

Don't forget that when you are using engraving plastic you will need to flip it over and pocket beneath where the engraving is located so you get the light penetration you need for backlighting.

 

My depth of cut for engraving is .004" deep into 0.06" thick plastic. Then I flip it and pocket the backside to a depth of .035" wherever engraving exists. It provides for a very nice backlighting. I believe Anton uses the same technique.

 

If I might make a recommendation, find a 4" wide ground plate (flat with even thickness) the length of your bed. Mount it to your existing bed. This will be your new work surface. Why? It gives you more width. The extra inch you get by doing this makes it much easier to handle larger panels. You can actually go a little further than that but be careful when you see how far you can go. You don't want to push the bed into the column.:doh: (new bearings required if you do :music_whistling: )

 

@forum... This is one guy to keep an eye on. He's now equipped to do some rather amazing things. Looking forward to your progress.:thumbup:

[agrasyuk]

Callum, you are indeed all set up now to make some quality parts. Big thumbs up.

 

John, your idea of pocketing behind the text is solid, but actually never occured to me! Hmm, that will surely bring out that backlight.

[Hansolo]

Nice Calum. Looking forward to seeing panels being spit out of you investment :thumbup: Can't wait to see you pit get into full gear.

 

Cheers

Hans