GoodHope

Agreed with the OP. I'd love to be able to stow them like we can in the A-10.

Whelp and there's the solution. Thanks!

Hello! I've searched this forum, but didn't see this come up so apologies if my questions have been covered. In the WSO position only, I can't unbind two things from my VIRPIL CM3 throttle. 1) In the WSO position, the slider (the one directly below your ring finger) moves the throttle even though it is not bound to it. I use that slider for zoom view which works fine from the pilot seat. However from the WSO position it does not control zoom and moves the throttle. Even when I unbind it from zoom view, it still moves the throttle. Any ideas? 2) The throttle mini-stick controls pitch and roll (the control stick). I have the mini-stick bound to the TDC slew which functions fine in the pilot position, but jump into the WSO seat and the mini-stick controls pitch and roll. As an experiment, I unbound all axis controls, but the slider still controls the throttle and the mini-stick still controls the control stick in the WSO position. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'm at that age myself so I totally get where you're coming from and we all have to make decisions based on our own situations. And with this hobby there are a lot of decisions to make, so take your time and do your research--which it sounds like what you're doing. My biggest gripe with the TM was the stiffness of the base--they're very stiff. Going from that to the VKB and the Virpil--huge difference. Good luck!

I started with a TM Warthog HOTAS--I've owned the TM, VKB, and Virpil--both the VKB and the Virpil are miles and more better than the TM. At the least, give them a look. Don't let the fact they ship from Europe and Asia deter you. They are both far far better options. I'm all Virpil at this point and never see myself going back.

Good input and I'll look for the video, but just to clarify; I'm not yanking and cranking the collective--I'm giving smooth and steady input, but regardless the torque varies wildly.

This did not solve the issue for me so I'm not sure we can call it solved. Curious to know if anyone else is still having the problem? I know @Wags uses the CM3 so wonder if he's also experiencing it? I've tried everything I can think to do (and probably a couple others). I've changed USB ports, calibrated multiple times, reset the device in windows, made the throttle an "slider", reversed it (from pull to push), and I even moved the collective to the axis I normally use for flaps. Nothing has worked to this point. The only way I can keep my torque value from jumping all over the place is to advance it VERY slowly. Otherwise it jumps wildly up and down before eventually settling after a few seconds.

I love it when dad gets home from work.

Actually I bought a lifetime supply for around $35 US. JK!!

Yes! This.

I'm having the same problem here.

Just want to let all those at ED and the SMEs know that I can't thank you enough for bringing this incredible module into existence. I'm 59 years old--you literally have made my (our) dreams come true. I just don't have the words to express my gratitude, but please know that your work is incredibly appreciated.

Well I'm glad (and sorry) to hear I'm not alone... such a small thing, but it is maddening if I concentrate on it. Guess I'm just going to have to learn to ignore it.

Hey guys, in VR my IHADSS HUD symbology is slightly cocked to the right. I've looked at Wags and Casmo's videos and it doesn't appear to be happening with them. I've tried having both eyes and just the right eye with and without the monocle visible. Any ideas what's causing this?

Thanks @ak22 That's exactly what I ended up doing, but first I unplugged all the throttle and rudder pedals. After that, I restarted the computer, opened VPC software, and make a new profile. Worked out great!

My current setup is a WarBRD base and a Mongoose CM2 grip. I also have a Constellation Alpha that is currently not used. I'd like to swap from the CM2 grip to the Constellation Alpha grip. Last time I swapped them, I had all kinds of problems and for a short while, I thought I had bricked the base. At one time, there was a video on how to do what I'm asking, but it has been taken down. What is the correct way to swap out grips? Any help greatly appreciated! Best, Dave

Well done sir!

Thank you for putting these together--very helpful! Do these get added to the existing kneeboards or added separately? I still haven't completely grasped where kneeboards get placed and such.

Cold start mostly, then takeoff, taxi, and land--that is if I can resist the gun long enough

Yeah, I think we've left the rails at this point...

Sorry for the late reply--just seeing this. The two screws are just above the serial number plate. Your description is exactly what mine was doing--not saying it is your problem, but the description fits what mine was doing. Also, agree completely with @dburneI've had to send something back to Virpil (I'm in the states) and the service is topnotch.

Yesterday mine started doing the same thing (or what I'm interpreting to be happening with yours). I tightened the two lowest screws on the stick and the problem was solved.

Until Wags says, "Hey, what's that Blackhawk doing over there" it means nothing...

I can't really offer help, but I'll offer some encouragement. I'm similar to you in age (59) and tinkering with computers not quite as long and I've been at DCS for about a yearish. My encouragement would be to stick with it and don't get frustrated--DCS is incredibly expensive in time and hardware, but the payoff is enjoyment several fold. Between YouTube and this forum (along with some luck) I've been able to solve (mostly) every issue I've had and I'm thankful for it because DCS gives back more than I've put into it.

I went with this one and I've been using it with the Gaz--it works well. My only complaint is that I wish I could figure out how to change the two triggers from axis to buttons. MS has an app where you can change buttons and flip axis and such, but I don't see a way to change them to buttons. Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread, but to me it is an important point. I'm wondering if a playstation controller wouldn't have that issue.