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MadKreator

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Everything posted by MadKreator

  1. I think it would do just fine power wise. As long as the working area suits your needs. One other thing to consider, that I’m not sure about on the k-40’s is the depth from the laser head to the bed. I don’t know how much adjustment is there. I don’t think the work bed is adjustable, I think focal length is determined by adjusting the laser head itself. I buy the big deep machines, not necessarily for the working area but for depth, so I can fit the chuck/lathe style rotary axis in there to engrave tumblers and cups and things like that. But we use ours for our actual 2nd business, which is laser engraving lol So I kind of need the wide array of being able to do anything that comes along. It looks like it has a built in exhaust fan ( probably a simple PC fan) so you would just need to route some tubing out of your space , or over to your airbrush fume extractor. It comes with a simple water pump but I do recommend at least a radiant style cooler like the cw-3000. Lasers do work best in a certain temperature range, usually 18-22 degrees Celsius is the optimum range. If your going to house it in a non-climate controlled area, like in the garage, you need to use some form of antifreeze mixed with your distilled water to keep the water in the glass tube from freezing and destroying it. The climate where I live will fluctuate from the low single/teens in the winter and 105 degrees F + in the summer. If you're going to be working in hot temperatures the the actual industrial chiller is highly recommended (cw-5000+) although those will cost almost as much as a k-40 itself. You may find that a bucket of water to be fine, and use frozen water bottles like big ice cubes in there to keep the temps in check looks like k-40’s are about 20” deep, 32” wide and 9ish inches tall. It’s 100% worth looking at different styles and researching as much info as you can. Whether it’s an omtech, monoport, or other brand, I think all k-40’s are pretty much the same. The control board in them is the key piece you want to look at closely. It will dictate what software you can use with it. And it doesn’t need to be a k40 necessarily. You’ll find that many machines are the same machines just re-branded( unless you get into high end ones like epilogue, thunder laser, trotech etc). Those are built with better components but they get extremely expensive. More industrial/ high throughput kind of needs. I have a buddy with a k-40… at least I’m pretty sure that’s what it is… I know it’s a smaller desktop style. I will ask him his thoughts on it and some of the ins and outs.
  2. Something along this line.
  3. Hey Baron! I have a Chinese black/yellow 500x700 60 watt C02, an Omtech 30 watt fiber, and another Omtech 100watt 500x700 on the way. They are pretty large machines. The 500x700’s are 1200mm wide 870mm deep and 920mm tall. For your purposes as others have said the K-40 will probably fit the bill nicely. You’ll be able to engrave fine, and cutting you should be good up to about 3/16” with a couple/few passes. K-40 has a good community following too for mods/upgrades. What I highly , highly recommend is getting the k-40 version ( or any other laser) that has the control board that is compatible with LightBurn software. You can design in any program you want but LightBurn is the best(imo) software to run the lasers. It is Mac compatible however not native M1,2,3chip compatible (yet?) it will run Rosetta in the background on those. My wife does all her designing on her iMac M2 with LightBurn. Exhaust/fume extraction/ air purification is a must as well. Also cooling solutions for the laser tube. From a fish tank pump in a bucket of water to a cw-3000 radiant cooler( only cools to ambient temp) to a cw-5000 (or larger) refrigerated water cooler to keep the temps wherever you want them to be. Expect some tinkering with any of them. Mirror alignment, finding true focal length, belt tension, gantry squareness etc etc, and some laser start/stop delay calibrations for various speeds.
  4. Here's the most boring track you'll probably ever watch. Refuel wait .trk ... of course it doesn't show the re-arm menu and what I clicked on
  5. So, a really annoying instance where this option would be nice.. Take the f-15e on a “ready for takeoff” mission( SA for the example) . It starts with bags on. Go to re-arm-refuel.. fuel percentage says 85%. Lets say you don’t want the bags on so you take them off. You load some bombs, missiles etc. and don’t touch the fuel percentage, hit okay. Well now you sit there for 5 minutes while it fills the bags up, only to take them right off as soon as its done. On the flip side of that (more f-15e specific, or at least thats where I notice it). Say you do land to refuel, for whatever reason, and you don’t touch your weapons at all. It seems to re-load them anyway. Never noticed on any other jet because the f-15e is the only one you have to manually assign munitions to each station… You already have them setup, all you wanted was fuel (yes i know it’s next to impossible to run out in the F-15e) and no re-arming necessary, but it seems to re-load whatever you had on there anyway, because now you have to set them all up in the jet again The re-arm logic seems to only affect the f-15e due to its PACS system (minor annoyance) . Seems to me a logical option, maybe at very least, would be to make it re-arm first to take into account added or removed bags, then refuel after. Why am I sitting waiting for a jet to refuel bags that are coming off in the next step Still advocating for the ability to choose one or the other
  6. Thank for the clarification. I have since reminded myself the full start procedure lol It was never a game breaker, I just never knew exactly why.
  7. Ahh that make sense. I see it says ready at about 4 minutes.. shortly after that the autostart sequence ends. I figured it did a short or SH alignment with autostart.. I will have to watch it and see if it still counts down (up?) after auto start ends. That would make sense why it doesn’t, so you can do a full alignment if you choose to.
  8. Title says it all. Not a huge issue for me but probably for a newer player. I normally do a regular cold start but its been so long since I’ve flown the viper I couldn’t remember how to do it. So autostart it was. Took a few restarts and trying to figure out why my navigation wasn’t cooperating at all…. Low and behold yes, that’s right, autostart doesn’t do the very last thing needed… turning the INS knob to NAV after alignment …. Is this intentional?
  9. Don't discount a 4080 too. I went from a 3080 to 4080 and its a big step up. I think the 4080 beats out the 3090 even performance wise except for vram (16 vs24), so claims userbenchmarks.com ..I’ve never used close to my full vram….. I also don’t have pimax crystal or aero or the likes so take that with a grain of salt.. But for 2d and something about like a Q3 it doesn’t really try that hard. And a 4080 FE is cheaper than a 3090 $1200 vs $1500 ish( of course keep watch for those sales) I think you would be happy with both.. Just a heads up the 40xx cards are BIG. 3 slots thick and about a foot long. 30xx’s are pretty good size too but only 2 slots thick. … My opinion on the whole thing
  10. Thanks guys, I will take a look at it. I would rather have one that is more current.
  11. Quick side-track here… Do you like Open Mod Manager better than OVGME?
  12. I’ve see many posts on VR having the most issues with it. I don’t play in VR much but I did notice the stuttering had gotten worse for me too with no settings changed between 2.8 and 2.9. Now I did manage to pretty much get rid of all the very small micro-stutters in 2D by enabling G-sync in nvidia and v-sync in game ( which I normally have on anyway). My monitor isn’t a true g-sync monitor but “compatible” and turning it on, for me, every flight is smooth as can be now, so it seems. Some people have issues running both, but my system seems to like it.
  13. Now that, I have no idea. I wouldn’t even know where to begin
  14. I’m all in for a P-38! Take my money!
  15. Wouldn’t that be nice!
  16. Truth be told it was a wild guess. I started clicking on each folder and opening every .init file until I saw anything related to render.purpose_GENERAL
  17. seems if you use both this AND the viewporthandling one together, it also removes the in-cockpit mdfs
  18. Actually, commenting the whole line does the same too.
  19. @Wrecking Crew @MAXsenna @lesthegrngo in the screenshot, commenting out this partial section ( line 4 ) DOES remove the MFDS from the Alt-F1 view in the A-10c2. See top of screenshot for full file path. Its in ....MFCD\indicator\BAKE\init.lua
  20. This is my viewporthandling.lua for removing mfd’s from the in-game cockpit… just doesn’t work on a-10
  21. @MAXsenna @lesthegrngo As I responded on discord, You can do this exact same thing in the viewporthandling.lua and it will turn off the in-cockpit mfd’s for every plane ( that I have) except for the a-10. The a-10 must follow a different set of rules that other aircraft.
  22. I think I remember someone saying they was a keybind(s) you could do on FC3, not in the menu
  23. @MAXsenna I know he was working on it. Was chatting with him this morning (my morning) on discord about it. Haven’t heard back from him yet. Thats actually what prompted me to ask on here
  24. Don’t the FC3 modules have that option as well? You can request one or the other? Maybe it is Viacom I’m thinking of
  25. This 100%! I wholeheartedly agree there should be options to choose whether to re-arm and/or re-fuel separately, or not at all for just changing liveries or chaff/flare loadout.
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