Lange_666

I use combat style foot rests on my MFG (got them sended over by Milan for testing). The ones i have have a few more fixing holes in them to get the position i wanted. I didn't like the original ME109's.

The regular clip isn't made for that (should be clipped onto the cap of the baseball cap) but i guess you can stick it onto a headset too. The Pro clip is actually made to clip on the side of a headset as Silverdevil shows. I never got a Pro clip because at first they where very fragile, lots of reports that they broke quickly. Don't know the current state.

A BIG yes... been using it for years. Started of with a TIR 1, now have the TIR 4 already since release in 2006. Still works super after all these years. BIG BIG Pro: There is no way to go back to joystick or keyboard to look around once you used this. Minor Cons: - Need to wear a baseball cap to put the provided trackclip on or buy a separate Trackclip Pro but that last one hooks you up with a cable. - Sudden rays on sunlight can mess things up, certainly with the trackhat. Personal con: On fast moving terrain it can get a little stuttery due to the TrackIR pull rate not in sync with your FPS rate. You can avoid this by capping your FPS to the pullrate of the TrackIR (or a division of it). I cap my FPS to 60 and then it's a supersmooth ride. But not everybody sees this as a problem. There are other options too like Tobi Eye Tracker, a DIY setup with a webcam and OpenTrack software or a setup with your cell phone and face tracking but never tried any of these. Can't compare.

Just what is says: Control Indicator. It shows you your current control inputs (stick, throttle, rudder, trim).

Headtracking like TrackIR: https://www.trackir.com/, Tobi Eye Tracker: https://gaming.tobii.com/product/eye-tracker-5/ or DIY with a webcam and Open Track: https://github.com/opentrack/opentrack/releases

For the Cougar to run on a "modern" Windows: https://forum.dcs.world/topic/152816-hotas-cougar-software-on-a-modern-windows

FS2020 is all about eye-candy, the rest is just way below par. I take the crappy AI and ATC behavior as an example, it's just plain horrible for a game that calls itself a simulation.

If AI can deliver a 30% performance boost, real programmers should be able to deliver at least the same boost because they wrote the AI code in the first place.

Thx for the tip, should have thought of it myself. Turned out to be the F-16C lua (wondering: i have stutters when this lua is in the ExportsModules, shouldn't other people have them too, it's the latest version that is in the DCS ExportScript). For now: Removed the entire DCS-Exportscript since i don't export anything to the Streamdeck for my own profiles, they only work one way (Deck to DCS).

That was my thought too but how do you pinpoint what is causing that?

Yesterday i noticed a constant annoying stutter when running DCS. Before that it ran silky smooth. Quick test in IL-2 and Elite Dangerous showed that it was only in DCS because they ran supersmooth. Because i played around with my StreamDeck the other day (added an M-2000 profile and some HW64Info data) i first thought of that. Removed my export.lua and all ran smooth again. Then i commented out line by line to find the problem and it turned out to be the DCS-ExportScript entry. When i commented out: -- load the DCS ExportScript for DAC and Ikarus dofile(lfs.writedir()..[[Scripts\DCS-ExportScript\ExportScript.lua]]) DCS ran without stutters again. I also have TacView, The Way and SRS in the export.lua but these didn't cause stutters, only the DCS ExportScript did. Q1: What causes DCS to stutter with this DCS ExportScript (latest version) in the export.lua and how to prevent it? Q2: Do i actually need DCS-ExportScript for my StreamDeck. The profiles that i made still actually work without it.

It's one of the first things i would look into because you find so much problems with it when searching the net but on the other hand, it should not behave like you mentioned. I have iCUE running (HS70 Pro headphones (sound setup + battery level check) and H115i AIO (fan curves) and i don't see an FPS drop. Do you have anything RGB control running through iCUE?

These little connectors normally don't come loose in their seating. Any chance of the wires pulling to hard on it while moving the throttle?

And after reading all of this above, the already growing VR forest of trees grew into a dense VR jungle. I'll just stick to my Rift-S. Start Oculus software and done. Can't be simpler.

Yes you can... Controls: UI Layer: recenter VR headset

Pico 4 looked quite promising in the beginning but i'm not interrested/willing to run multiple interface program upon interface program, each with it's own interfering setups just to get the thing going. I ain't gonna go that road.

So SteamVR is mandatory? Not possible to circumvent this?

Beyond Visual Range

In the mission editor you can set the level of AI. null

1: Yes, the stick isn't properly balanced on it's center line. The heavy TM spring and friction of the plastic TM gimbals compensate for this but that is not a nice solution if you ask me. 2: I guess so, if you mount the front of the plate a bit upwarts it will compensate. With the stock springs, those that were mounted when the base arrived, the forward lean was quite prominent, way too much to my liking. With the provided heavy's, that lean is almost gone. That there is a slight amount of lean is not a big problem, you pull a lot more on the stick over a longer range then you push it. With the stock springs mounted, it was +/- like this: With the supplied heavy springs it became this: I'm sure that with the separate to buy extra heavy's the lean is totally gone. Opening the base up and change the cams or springs isn't much of a hassle. Piece of cake.

If going for a Virpil WarBRD base take note of the following: - You can rewrite the USB/VID number of the WarBRD if you put a TM stick on it which then can acts like a Warthog Stick inside the TM Target software (if you should use that). - The WarBRD sticks are made of plastic weighing a lot less then your old TM stick you will put on the WarBRD base. This means it leans forward with the stock springs that are mounted. However, it comes with a set of heavier springs. If installed the stick forward lean is then reduced to around 2° or less. A thing you won't notice once calibrated. If needed, you can always order a set of extra heavy springs sold separately to overcome that last 2° lean. But i feel it's a waste of money. - The WarBRD base can be fitted with a number of cams, i use those with zero center feel/bump. - If you tend to sell the Warthog base, sell it without the base plate (there is demand for that, i sold mine within 48 hours). Then swap the Virpil base plate out for the TM one (you have to drill 4 new holes to in the TM base plate to fit the Virpil base on it, no worries, the old holes are covered by the new base). After that... if you are used to a TM gimbal, you're just gonna be spoiled (as if you would with a VKB one).

You could have saved yourself the effort. This is one you can't win.

The moment i went to PC gaming (coming from Commodore VIC-20, C-64 and Amiga) i started chasing and i still do this to this day. Nothing has changed since then (sort of).