Blackrat_UK

Change of heart, using on an Airbus setup again.

They are buttons/switches so its on or off, AFAIK you need an axis for what you are trying to achieve. In XPlane you can set different brake pressures per button press, not sure that is possible in DCS.

I fitted the virpil spring and it works a treat, no drop in the cruise at all. VIRPIL UK | VPC Rotor Counter-Balance Kit

Microphone and speakers are built into the quest 3 or you can wear a headphone/earbuds over the top. I have a quest 3 and very happy with it but you may need to buy a more comfortable head mount also if you are going direct link you will need a cable. People do use a wifi 6 link but then there are battery considerations for extended gameplay. Personally I bought a link cable which is plugged into USB3 and also a power socket to keep things charged all the time. I am not worried having a cable hanging off the headset.

I had a similar thing many years ago it was the PSU, see if you can swap it out and test?

Ran this for a year with an AMD 7800X3D CPU and MSI B650 Tomahawk wifi board with no issues at all. Upgraded to 64GB and wanted to stay with Just two stick in dual memory so this is surplus to requirements. Its described as for an AMD board running EXPO. £65 posted

I had the same issue yesterday after an update, finally found my win11 install disk, yes I bought hard copy, and entered the key again all good. But that is not the way it should work, that key should be tied to my hardware and windows account, so logging in should have accepted it was an activated legitimate OS. I was cursing whilst trying to remember where the disk was and why am I so stupid to do things legally when I could buy a 1.99 key on ebay and have less hassle. Looking forward to the same update on the desktop which originates from a win7 key which has been upgraded to 10 then 11 through legitimate means.

Not so worried about the appearance, I 3d print stuff myself, it was durability, which you answered, many thanks

Just looking around for reviews on these, I have a Rhino, was just concerned about 3d print strength when pulling some torque on the base.

I chased that dream for years, it never worked out for me, now I just fly although still have my racing gear, if you have the room buy a second rig and share the computer between them

I ordered and received a Rhino MFG crosswind FFB kit from Kaltokri, very speedy dispatch, the motor came with my Rhino stick, easy enough to follow the clear instructions, the motor needs some work on the wire end to insert into the motor board, just stripping a bit and I tinned the bare wire or you could just insert the bare wires as you would an electric plug, if you are old enough to remember doing that. I was a bit confused with the X axis in the software but turns out I had a Y axis motor, its labelled, so a case of swapping the axis in the software to see it as an X axis. The print finish is excellent and very tidy, all tolerances make for a perfect fit, very enjoyable build, the hardest part for me was mounting to my rig, 20mm M6 bolts are just long enough to bolt it all to a T6 slot nut on the 8020 profile. Now to just get around to sorting profiles out.

I have MFG Crosswind pedals with damper and removing the centre spring is perfect for rotary.

I have just made the same change G2 to Quest 3, it is much easier than the G2 to setup I am finding, if you can run it use pixel density 1.5 it makes a lot of difference, but I am still experimenting myself. As I wear glasses for screen work its so much easier having the screen in VR rather than switching out of VR to glasses and back all the time.

MSI AMD B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI AM5 DDR5 ATX Motherboard LN129282 - MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI | SCAN UK Is the one I bought, but that was a year ago so may be there is a better alternative, I have used Asus for quite a few years but that was for overclocking Intel chips, I didn't need all that control so tried a change. It does boot slow as it checks the RAM each time but you can switch that off. It works for me with my 7800X3D.

Personally I would go with a 320mm AIO if you have room, which is what I did, I also ditched Asus for MSI but I am running a 7800X3D for a year now so your 9800, which is the obvious choice along with the 64GB Corsair RAM which I am also using, may need a different board for poss overclock, I haven't researched it. If you are buying from Scan they are pretty trustworthy, been using them for many years. Dropping to a B650 could save a hundred quid, but I haven't done that research like I said, just fed up with being ripped off for features I don't need.

I have the same mobo and CPU and bought The vengeance RAM DDR5 64GB 6000, have bought Corsair for ages, never had a bad experience and its reasonably priced here in the UK. Non RGB will be a bit cheaper. I did notice the latest accommodates both Expo and XMP.

UK I take it? If so I will take the Hawk grip

I have tried to accomodate both, but there is always a compromise on either racing or flying in terms of cockpit setup. Unless you have a solid brake requiring lots of force then a solid bucket seat is not needed, you won't get thrown out and its really is just for the whole sim experience. I have had several including the Simxperience GS5 and none were good for flying unless you had a side stick, using a Simlab P1X rig. I have given up on trying to be serious on both so switched to flight sims as my priority with the racing stuff in the cupboard for setting up as and when I need to, but that will be more than a 5 minute job switching out. I bought a NLR flight seat with cut out that reclines, that would suit your itch for both I think, also Monstertech quick release for the centre stick is a God send. Just bear in mind there will be a compromise on one or the other.

New software and new settings, try this one? I haven't yet but it looks similar. https://gaming.tobii.com/games/dcs-world/ I am just using these until I get my head around the apache lol https://help.tobii.com/hc/en-us/articles/18507056489233-DCS-World

Couple of things. Is the twist axis calibrated correctly? If it is do you have a curve set in DCS? If so remove the curve and try, if no curve set it at 20 for the rudder axis and adjust to your liking.

I ordered a 100mm and 200mm extension as a bundle on Ebay but already have a 100mm ext so I am selling the surplus 100mm. No idea of history as it was second hand, the locking sytem was jammed but I have freed it up and tested on my GF3 all worked okay electronically. Would like £25 posted UK only . Cheers Mark

I am transferring from racing to just flight simming, 8020 rig, so I just need to rejuggle stuff around plus add wheels so I can move the rig in a corner. So far its working out as minimal swapping for GA, Airbus, GA rotary and of course DCS, will know by the end of the week if I have achieved that.

Hi, I have the MkIV T rudders, 38 cm at the widest and the pedals do indeed press down within the footprint of the base, 21-25 cm deep, its adjustable depending on your foot size, but your feet will stick out beyond the pedals. Looking at the MkV it seems they just changed the sensor. I suspect the Mk4 will just be the same frame size. They are pretty compact. Cheers

Weird, I had the wrong size nut in the counterbalance kit but never used the fixing bolts for the collective which have M5 nuts so issue resolved. Yet to try it in anger with the Apache grip as I am re positioning everything on my rig which is a major strip down.

Can you not run the bootloader in win7 compatibility mode?