fael097

obviously it works with 32bit games. but lets check the facts. -guy didnt mention game hes on. only 64bit win. -recent post -trying ppjoy assume he's trying warthog 64bit. and he already mentioned he tried free track recommendations for ppjoy at first place. @saiko: ppjoy installation doesn't fail at start, it simply asks to apply some changes, and then you must accept it, restart windows manually, and run the installer again. to install ppjoy, windows must be in test mode, and thats what it does when you think it fails unless you get a different message. what ppjoy returns when you try to install?

trackir fixer doesnt work on 64bit dude....

I was wondering how to make analog instruments. does DCS warthog outputs some sort of signal or variable that I can capture with servos, in order to make my needles move?

I'm trying to control the console lights. I was going to try the method mojo posted here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=935486#post935486 but I never managed to get a pot working good, controlling an axis in its full range, or at least an useable ammount.

yeah, except that would change the frequency in use for each mission. plane will still start the uhf radio in 225. no ideas on how to change that, guys?

brilliant! :thumbup: thank you

MadTommy , post something so I can give you rep :P thanks for this brilliant work! btw, are RWR signals covered? I didn't find in the manual what the diamond and the semi circle over it mean.] cheers!

It works, just not stable enough for you to have fast response, smooth movements, and be able to keep the camera steady while you're looking to a point other than the center. also, I have to play in total and absolute darkness, otherwise it loses track of my clip from time to time, and depending on the angle. and I don't want to break yet another camera trying to remove the IR filter to use IR leds, for a software that doesnt work like I wanted it to, and also a method that you can't be sure it will keep it tracking IR lights all the time.

I'm trying freetrack AGAIN today, with my new clip, but having tested both many times before I'd say it's about the same, except facetrack is much more sensitive to micro head movements. both aren't useable IMO

that I didn't know. I'm not sure what pot I'm currently using, but I'd say 50% of its range controls leds intensity. the only thing is what was previously mentioned, the leds are not equally bright through all the pot's range, but on 100% leds are equally bright, and on 0%, they are equally dim (not off, because it has no switch, so leds are always on) but now that you mentioned that, I'm in a pickle. I need a 100k linear pot to be able to control the axis in game (with my current pot, only 1% of the range moves the axis, and it moves ONE unit lol) and that wouldnt dim the leds properly. I also need a pot that is NOT 100k to be able to dim leds properly, but that wouldnt control the axis properly, as I have tested. and I need the SAME pot to control both things, game controller's axis, and leds intensity. is it impossible? edit: perhaps I should just get a regular 100k pot with a switch, and use the pot rotation range to control the axis, and just use the switch to turn my leds on and off. that way I wouldnt have to worry looking for a potentiometer that I can only assume doesn't exist, as i've been looking for it everywhere, and also wouldn't have to do PWM. my cockpit led's would be always on or off, but that's the only solution I see.

that didn't appear to me. only the usual control / briefing, etc....

in the real cockpit, it probably stays like the last thing you set. in game, it always return to 225, so if it could always return to 251 would be a time saver.

thats what I'm talking about. the default frequency that your uhf radio starts on is 225, and that's what I want to change. it must be stored somewhere, and its probably changeable.

great! may I know how, please? :)

no, I mean, change the frequency the radio is when i turn it on. afaik, it's 225 the game default

I did it already. Don't know perhaps I was falling asleep. Will read again, see if I get it :)

well, playing with filtering sure "helps", but doesnt fix the problem. I gave many suggestions to Wim to fix this prob, hope some of them can be of any use. cheers!

I'm aware of that, I read some stuff about PWM on the net, but for now, guess unequal dimming will have to do it. after I find the pot, then I'll work on PWM, but firs I need the pot, wich I can't find....

can I change default UHF to 251?

I was trying new stuff, and read that DMS moves mav's reticle while it's SOI, but when I tried in game, didn't do anything. am I doing something wrong, or it only work under certain circumstances?

I already asked that, check page 3

tired of ejecting on the shore first mission, after getting killed by god damn russian fulcrum pilots :mad: lol I decided to enable crash recover. turns out that nothing happened. I ejected and stood there, didn't respawn or anything. pressing ESC also has no more RCVR option, since briefing button replaced it. :helpsmilie:

I tried all settings possible. spend last night playing with settings and nothing. first i disabled all kinds of smoothing and filtering, to get faster response and be able to setup my curves. after I was satisfied with curves, I started playing with filter and smoothing. after a few hours trying to do the impossible, I realized that filtering and smoothing doesn't help at all, only makes camera response to your head movement smoother, but hell slower, thus more difficult to control, and less intuitive. it doesn't help at all, when you try to keep your head steady looking to a certain instrument, instead it makes it more difficult. without filtering, you can actually know what you're doing, for example, you move your head to the correct place. as you move your head, you see the camera response, and you instantly know if you have to move it some more to reach the place where you want, or not. the only problem is that camera keeps shaking because ftnoir captures your head's minimal movements. however filters doesnt eliminate the minimal shaking, they just make them slower and smoother, but they are still there, and bigger. you'll have slow response, you'll have to move your head, wait until camera moves less (because it will never stop) and then move your head again, until you find the place you actually want to look at, (of course, that in seconds, but you do it) and when you stop your head from moving, camera will rotate and shake in slow motion, because of the filters. but Wim said he's developing a system to keep the camera steady where you want to look at. lets hope he can come up with something cool.

anyone has an idea where i can find that? dual pot with switch, linear 100k? going crazy here... lol

nevermind, after a while I managed to assign the correct axis. however it's just like I remember. shaky and unstable. if i apply filters, its the same, but shaking slowly and smoothly lol.