VO101_MMaister

You are entirely right :thumbup: regarding pitch/roll force: Becasue the human arm is much stronger back and forth than sideways the aircraft designers tend to use the load relation 2/1 at pitch/roll to achive harmonical control load. If we have 10kg on pitch then we need about 5kg on roll.

It is important to have a figure on the required max. torque at the grip of a floor mounted stick. I think the 10kg (100N) at the pitch axis would be a good basis (however for realistic forces the stick should be able to deliver rather 20kg :)) The length of a floor mounted stick from the pivot to the griping point is about 500mm. So we need ca. 50Nm torque to get the required 10kg force. Now this is quite a lot from a DC motor, so it has to be geared down heavily, but with the increasing gear ratio we are decreasing the max output RPM as well. At some point the output RPM will be too slow and the stick will lack responsivness and will be unable to deliver quick movements and adjustments. Another problem with the high gearing is the breaking effect. The motor will act as a break when you try to move the stick around under low force load conditions (at low speed or on the ground for example) To avoid this we need a strong DC motor and the gearing should be limited. (I don`t have a value on the max. acceptable gear ratio, it should be tested) EDIT: Ok a bunch of things came to my mind about the topic:) Every gear have some internal torque loss which is caused by friction. It is indicated by the efficiency number. The higher the better. Therefore at the first stage I recommend to use planet gears. They are compact and efficient. (and expensive). The low backlash is crucial as well because the second stage (belt, cable, whatever) gear will amplify the first`s backlash. So if you have a 1:10 second stage it will amplify the backlash 10x! What voltage motor should I look at? Is there any limitation of the current? Here is a nice one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brushless-DC-Motor-UK-Seller-/381731796828?hash=item58e0fcf75c:g:S3UAAOSwG-1WvJ3i .... exciting:)

I am not much help when it comes to programming, but I can help with the gimbal design if it is needed. Let me know.

Terrific! Are you building some sort of optics as well in there?

Reading these complains about loose screws I have a very simple solution for both VPC and the end users. Apply Loctite threadlock adhesive on the threads. When you as an end user has the sweet setting and the right cam-plate, remove the screws and give them some blue (or even red) loctite.

Hi, Building the pedals of wood is ok in my opininon, but I would oversize the bearings. The problem with wood that it doesn`t take much surface pressure without local deformation. The small bearings deliver a high surface load onto the wood which will wear out quickly and your bearings will go loose. So you need to minimize surface pressure by increasing the contact area. Use large OD and wide bearings in a hardwood base. Sokol`s idea is great to rest your heels on the floor instead on the pedals, so the vertical load on the mechanism will be lower. Making a CAM mechanism of wood has the same challange. The CAM roller has a tiny contact area with the CAM plate. Combine it with a high springload and you will have a very high surface pressure on the CAM plate. The roller will wear out the wood pretty quickly. Good luck!

Ok, I finally sorted it out:) I installed the second sensor but it didn`t make a difference. Because the flickering was happening while there was some cockpit shaking I suspected that it might had been the simshaker software. So I disabled it and Voila! The flickering was gone. Because I had never read about an issue like this, I thought that it is probably my hardware`s and not the simshaker`s fault. And indeed it was my cheapo USB soundcard which was used by the simshaker to power the buttkicker. This USB soundcard was in the same mobo USB port cluster as one of the oculus sensors. Probably due to bad shielding it interfered with it and corrupted the sensor`s signal when a strong simshaker signal went out thru it. Now the soundcard is moved into an usb hub and all is fine:)

It is quite a pain to install the secound one due to the lack of space for it, but I will figure it out if it might be a solution. I think this flickering is connected to cockpit shaking somehow.

Does anyone have an idea what can cause this flickering of the picture? I didn`t have it before the rift, but now It happens all the time, while I am rolling on the ground, or when I`m shooting with the guns. It looks like my position goes off for a second then it comes back. But it is very odd that it is most prone while I am on the ground or when I am shooting. Under normal flying it rarely comes up. I use one sensor with the rift, plugged into a 2.0 USB port on the main board. Here is a short video example.

Well... still no success here. It is very odd. I assigned a controller button for the fps counter to see if makes a different, but it still doesn`t work. I will go for a workaround, using the Rift`s SDK software to show the ingame fps.

I have a compact keyboard where the pause key can be activeted only together with an additional function key, so I remapped the fps function in DCS settings to an other key combination (I have tried a few of them) but it does not work for some reason (in 1.5.7)

Thanks, so it is my settings. I will double check.

This functions seems like it doesn`t work for me. I tried to change the key combo in settings as well but nothing happenes when i press the keys. Do I something wrong? Do I have to activate some kind of console first? Or is there any other way to check the FPS with oculus?

Thank you dburne. I reduced my VR portions significantly. I figured that I can handle about 15min now.:P I haven`t tried it with Normandy yet, only with 1.5.7 which runs quite well. I am curious about how my rig will handle Normandy and Nevada with the oculus.

I pulled the trigger as well. Holly sh*t it is just a mindblowing new dimension of simming. However I became really sick after my first and obviously too long VR session:) Can you give some setting tips for my rig for the best performance/visuals? 2600k@4,5Ghz, GTX1070, 16GB and SSD.

I need some advice. Currently I have a 2600k runing at 4,5ghz and a GTX1070. WHWhat can I expect from this combo with a CV1? I have the chance to buy one at a good price but I don't want to upgrade my pc. Thank you

Regarding the mechanism I have a question. What is the required minimum output RPM of the motor+gear combo to have short enough reaction time and proper ffb effects.

The stronger magnetic field the better...go with the neodymium. The best and most compact solution is to get a radial polarized ring magnet and screw it onto a pivot shaft. With these it is also very simple to align the poles with the sensor. From the pictures it seems that you have actually 6 pivoting points to measure the rotation of the pedals. Plenty to choose from:)

It still looks terrific Vladimir!:) Did you end up 3D print the pedals?

Unfortunately it looks like this project has died. It is sad because it was a fantastic initiative. I would like to be wrong of course.

It is my pleasure if my project gave some inspiration to others :) Actually I might have a 1pc around ;) Let me have a look at my inventory, and I will send you a pm about it. I don`t have exact info about it, but it has a very wide range. It will fit well I think. I don`t know it, but it is probably worth a try. Actually I bought quite a few stuff just for testing when I built. Some parts turned out to be great like the dampers, but some were useless.

Hi Krupi, your concept looks good I think. On the elevator you can go for a much cheaper damping solution. Search for motorcycle steering dampers on ebay. They are adjustable, have no backlash, have smooth operation and are cheap. On the aileron the rotary damper is great. Unfortunately the quality ones are expensive. The cheaper ones are usually for lids and forniture doors, and not for precise mechanical components. ACE controls have quite a few types, maybe they have some without backlash. http://www.acecontrols.com/ In my setup Im using DEB rotaries. They are great but very expensive. I found mine on ebay for peanuts though. http://www.debmfg.com/Aerospace-Equipment.html Regarding loads: Your concept to have twice the load on the aileron compared to the elevator might be right for the Spit, but it is very uncoventional and ergonomically unconfy. Usually it is the other way around. Simply because the human arm is much weaker for lateral moves than for pulling and pushing. As I know Supermarine went that way as well and increased the control loads on the elevator after the mark V and on. 30lbs is a lot for a constant aileron load, you might want to reconsider. Lower loads will also allow you to apply smaller and cheaper damper. In real aircraft the control loads are changing all the time with the airspeed. Making controls with constant high loads are unrealistic and compromise precision inputs. In my experience low loads with plenty damping is the way to go.

Well, I think it is not a good idea at all. The CAM plates have to be very responsive, and should not be braked. If you dampen their movement they will be unable to follow the CAM wheel`s quick motions and will give a sloppy feel.

Single wing drop happens when the lift is asymmetric on the two wings around stall speed. It can be caused by jawing or rolling movement of the aircraft.

It can be normal. I can do the same with the Super Dimona I am flying in RL despite she doesn`t have slats. I can throttle full back and put her into a stable stall with stick all the way back. She is stalling and sinking rapidly with stable high nose attitude, without any sign of wing drop, fully controllable. Although they are very different birds the aerodynamics is not a subject for change:)