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Supersheep

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Everything posted by Supersheep

  1. Und wenn man sich mal draußen auf einen Hügel stellt, und ein bisschen umher schaut, merkt man, dass das sogar in der Dämmerung noch hinhaut. Da brauchts nicht mal einen Piloten, das festzustellen :)
  2. You're in school AND you have four kids AND are serving in the Air Force!? That earns a lot of respect.
  3. Naja, er hat auch noch einen Feldstecher dabei. Der hat, zusätzlich zum 20/20-Sehvermögen, nochmal eine 4x bis 12x Vergrößerung, und damit sieht man dann noch besser als mit dem Zoom. Und in der Realität werden die Ziele nicht durch so Kram wie Antialiasing weichgespült und verschwinden fast von der Erdoberfläche.
  4. Das ist sehr realistisch, wenn man die Auflösung des Monitors mit dem des Auges vergleicht. Es ist nicht mit dem Zoom besser als in der Realität, sondern ohne den Zoom schlechter. Wenn du dich durch das Forum suchst, wirst du dutzende Threads zu dem Thema finden, die alle das gleiche (obriges) Ergebnis haben. Du setzt dir ein enormes Handicap, wenn du den Zoom weglässt. Wenn du Spaß daran hast ist das freilich ok, aber mit deiner Begründung ist das gar nicht notwendig :P
  5. Oh, I forgot two things: Total cost excluding the lead is sub-20 Euro, too. Time required is (again excluding lead) about one hour depending on how cleanly you work and how thoroughly you clean up the plastic chips from the cutting... Addendum 1912z: I put the top part in at an angle. That doesn't exactly constitute an offset-mounted stick (as the stick still is aligned with the X/Y axes), but makes handling much better nontheless. And, once I get an extension for the Warthog, I'll simply cut down the long PVC pipe and am ready to go again :)
  6. For those curious about the stand, I decided to give it its own thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=2003600#post2003600
  7. The PVC Drain Pipe Warthog Stand See images below I've received a number of inquiries about my stand for the Thrustmaster Warthog, and instead of pointing you to my old, relatively small post about it, I decided to finally make a proper post with more detail in it. The idea isn't from me, I found it posted by another ED member who uploaded an image of his that I cannot find anymore (if you have a link to that post, I'm happy to include it here). The Stand is cheap, quick to build, does not require unusual tools and is quick and easy to disassemble if needed. Additionally, it has a clean and uniquely industrial look to it :) Although it’s not hard build, I want to share some experiences that make your build process even easier. The Stand itself consists of four parts: PVC Drain Tube Two Blind Caps A double female joint connector Twelve screws (IIRC I used M4 10 mm??) A couple of washers The diameter of the pipes is not really important. I used 120 mm, which nicely fits the joystick base, but if you’re off by a bit that doesn’t matter. What counts is that the flat tops of the blind caps have at least the same diameter as the joystick base. Choose these first and then the tubing diameter accordingly. Tools you’ll need: Saw Screwdriver Hammer (see below) Paper Pencil Ruler The construction Detach the base plate from the joystick base, the Piping will be put between them and the base makes for a niche stable (see below) stand. As you’ve likely figured out by now, the blind caps are going to be screwed to the base plate and the joystick base. Tip to help you achieve a clean alignment of all parts: Get a sheet of paper, put it onto the base plate, and use a pencil to trace the screw holes onto it. Be careful not to move the paper while doing so. When you’re done, you’ll clearly see the position of the holes on the paper, and you can use a ruler to diagonally connect the holes (see figure 1, red circle). Punch a small hole where the lines intersect so that you can barely put the tip of the pen though it and peek through. Hopefully, your blind caps have been injection molded and have a little détente or molding remnant in the center of the big flat surface (if not, use the ruler to figure out where the center is and mark it). This enables you to use the détente and the hole in your stencil to line up the stencil right in the center of the blind cap. Fixate if there, mark the position of the holes (bang a nail there, for example), remove the stencil (don’t destroy it, you need to drill both blind caps this way), drill the holes, and repeat with the other blind cap. You’ll end up with eight beautiful and almost perfectly aligned holes. Now screw the blind caps to the base plate and the joystick base (using washers if your material if in doubt), put the double female connector onto the base plate, and figure out the correct length for the PVC pipe. (Pro tip: Better have a safety margin of 20 cm and cut it three times than to go all out and have to run to the store again…), Cut It accordingly, insert it into the connector and put the joystick base onto it. That’s basically it. Test for play, slack and bending by gently pushing the joystick base. Mine had some play between the bottom blind cap and the connector, so I added four screws (see images). If you need to detach the pipes again in the process, this is easier if you apply torque instead of only trying to pull them out. Now, the extras: Ballast My stand would tip over if I moved the joystick. To solve this, I ballasted the Stand with 15 kilograms (55 lbs) of lead I bought for <20 Euros (30 dollars) from a local scrap metal yard. You can of course check the spot prices for lead on the CME or LSE, but expect to pay between 10 and 50% premium (depending on the policy of your scrap yard. (Pro tip: Don’t ask for “50 lead”. They’ll wonder when the truck comes…). Before I continue: Beware, that stuff is toxic. Use appropriate safety gear and a lot of common sense. With that out of the way, my lead was in tile form (the ones used to seal roofs) and since they didn’t fit into the PVC piping, I used a hammer to bang them into compact chunks that I dumped in the piping. Before I did so, I put some leafs of old newspaper down into the pipe and also wrapped the lead into newspaper so there isn’t any dust falling out of the stick every time I move it – that doesn’t look nice and is toxic, too. Lifting: Every time I want to fly, I move my stand from next to my desk to in front of my chair. If you do the same, remember to either add screws to the top blind cap, too, to secure it, or push it back in every now and then. That thing can and will come loose, and your feet are not going to be amused by that. Besides, mind your back when hastily picking up the stand. Keep in mind, that the base plate has rubber feet attached to it. If you drag the stand over the ground, these will shear off. If that happens, use double-sided duct tape to reattach them – they’re handy to have. The construction: The assembly is solid and has no play in it. The PVC pipe bends a little, but it doesn’t bounce like a spring so I don’t mind. If yours does so excessively, you could possibly use construction foam to stiffen it, but that ruins the easy disassembly. You’ll immediately notice if your floor is level. If it is not, you can counter any tipping with a bit of paper glued under the base plate. One thing to add might be a grip, attached to the big piece of tubing to make moving the stand easier. I haven’t done so yet, but might consider this (or not, as I've been using mine for more than a year already and like it ;P) Another idea is a small bar that you can wrap the cable of the joystick around when it’s not in use. If you need images from different angles, a clearer description of some steps, or have other comments, I'm looking forward to your feedback! Supersheep When I've time again, I might take images that are not as crappy as these... Image one: Images of the stand
  8. That likely applies to the tank, too. Lets see what happens while that is being worked on. As you say, long time for changes.
  9. Be careful what you wish for. Sooner than we expect it we might need to properly boresight our guns after taking the tank out of storage, for training, after maintenance, after transport.. And that involves hacking tons of numbers into a system that doesn't control your input for nonsense, and lets you do it all over again if you get bored and mess up :D
  10. Send him a PM, I already have a quote and am happy with it. However, putting the info into the thread would reduce workload for Sahaj and lower the "I want one-hurdle" I think. BTW @Sahaj, I'll buy one, but not right now. Come March comes money and time to use it =) I'll contact you again once I'm at that stage.
  11. Just thinking, you might find this interesting, too. Write me if you want more info on it. (click to enlarge)
  12. I think that is zeroize the G meter. I don't normally do that as the taxiing will that again already, but I guess it doesn't hurt either.
  13. Yep, but I expected some more. Then again, only today did I learn that a second edition is supposed to be published.
  14. Cool enough for my A-10 to have a look at it :megalol: Human Tunguska, however, makes my gameplay really nasty. Modelled in detail, even more so.
  15. I know the thesis that drinking straws help maintain the health of the teeth (link below). But that doesn't work really well when using Lips Only I think. If you'd ask me, I'd say the Lips Only Theory is made up unless someone shows me peer-reviewed evidence to the contrary. Can you ask the coach/trainer/instructor (?) about the background? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drinking_straw
  16. I still can't rep the person I originally wanted to, even though I've significantly inflated the rep in circulation. Anyone feeling excluded? :P
  17. Hmm. I see the term "source" being used frequently. I find the lack of links disturbing, so I conclude that it's either a subscription to Jane's* or offline material/persons/contacts? *Maybe I'm expecting too much from them? But anyways, looking at the price tag...
  18. Warthog, hands-down. I play on an HD 5850 that DCS runs ok. If I didn't have a Warthog but knew what it's like, I'd never upgrade the GPU first. With a TM:W you don't need a better GPU for any other games, either :D (Ok I made that one up) Edit: Sniped.
  19. I deleted two of mine, they were entirely not relevant to the topic.
  20. The difficulty with an SA-10 is that it has a huge tracking radius. To get lies corssing at 90 degrees, you need to fly a quarter-circumfence of the radar, and that is a long way. Of course, it works with shorter distances like a 1/16 circumfence, but it becomes much more suspectuble to even the slightest errors, and using the RWR like that is always an inexact science. I'm confident that you now know how to do it. Simply change your mission to an SA-15 and you'll likely get much better results. Then, figure out the time it takes the A-10 to fly a quarter around and SA-10 at max search range, and then repeat with that information.
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