AceKng1

Make 1 button on your keyboard that turns the labels off. Then program your button on the controller like you planned to. Simply press the button to turn labels off at the beginning of the mission.

If it is saying you need BS1 activated and installed then you will need to reinstall BS1. However, you can simply install the steam version and run it one time. After that, install DCS World, then install the BS2 Upgrade module for DCS world.

He said no right windows key on a black widow.

That would probably be a good idea. Before I figured out how to turn off the center feed portion of the center/sub line I could sometimes hear music and other sounds coming through the bass shaker very quietly. It wasn't a huge deal for me, especially as I have headphones on when playing and the higher range didn't really cause any shaking, but it may get annoying to other people.

I use an Aura Pro Bass Shaker that I got for like $30. I simply used self tapping screws to attach it to the frame of my chair. It is hooked up to a Dayton Audio 70w sub amp and works fantastic. I have a center/sub line output on my sound card that feeds the amp. If you only have 1 line out, you could connect this to your amp and it will work but you would have to split it somehow. It would probably be easier to get a sound card to split the outputs. I would definitely recommend the Aura Pro Bass Shaker. With my amp it provides plenty of shake with almost no noise. I actually have to turn the gain down to about half as the shaking is so intense that the chair itself rattles and becomes loud and my apartment neighbors get annoyed (This is the chairs problem). I have heard you definitely need an amp though as just using the shaker by itself it won't be very effective. One idea, do you have a separate headphone jack or digital audio out? I personally play with headphones that use a the digital audio out on my board. I have the audio simultaneously output to both the digital out and the speaker outputs. This lets me feed the bass shaker amp with the center/sub line on the speaker outs while hearing the game audio through my headphones.

I tend to have almost every function mapped to some control so in a way I guess that is keyboard shortcuts. The only point and click I really do is for startup and a few less important tasks in the air. Now when it comes to actual combat, I don't think there will be much of a difference. Pretty much all your controls needed for combat are on the HOTAS so unless you just have a basic stick, you are not pointing and clicking at all. It is all about flying ability and combat maneuvers, not who can press controls the fastest. This isn't a real time strategy game.

This doesn't sound normal. Could possibly post a video or screenshot of what is happening so we can see what you see? You could also post a track so we can see if something is out of the ordinary. My first guess is that maybe you are accidentally changing the targeting view of the maverick to infrared or black hot. Another guess is that the contrast on your mfcd may need to be adjusted with the appropriate rocker switch.

The clip fits great on my Turtle Beach X12 headset.

So when do we get to fly an F-84 and drop nuclear bombs? http://www.airspacemag.com/military-aviation/Nuke-the-Pilot-187488231.html

I think we are just looking at this from different angles. You are looking at simming the realism of trim in that when you trim in the real shark you can then keep moving the stick and trimming, no unnecessary movements. I'm looking at it from the angle of when you trim the shark in real life, you immediately no longer have to put pressure on the stick to maintain that position. Rather, that position has become the "center" of the stick. Both are equally valid things to simulate and truly the best way of doing it in the sim is to simply have a FFB stick. However, options are rather limited there. I think it would be cool if ED came up with another method of controlling trim with a non-FFB stick that would give players the option to choose what they like. Unfortunately, this is probably way down on their scope of things to do.

I guess the main goal of the central trim position is to have your stick centered when the virtual stick is centered. The whole goal of trim is to make it so you can fly with your hand off the stick. In the real shark when a pilot trims to a position, the stick becomes centered there. The pilot can then move the stick around however they want but when they let go of the stick it goes back to that trimmed position. With our joysticks when you let go they always go back to the center, not where we trimmed. Forcing the user to go back to center makes it so your joystick matches the joystick in the cockpit. With your suggested methods, say you trim to a position but don't center the stick. You then keep moving the stick and may even trim again. How will this movement register? Will it be according to the center of your joystick or the center of the in game cyclic according to your trim? These have now become 2 different things because you have not centered the stick. For example, you trim 10 forward. Then, while still holding 10 forward, you move 5 left. Now you are 10 forward and 5 left of the center of your stick. However, you are only 5 left of the trim position. Which input do you then use? Having a key to press that says ignore stick input could work and let you center the stick. But what happens if you don't center it but rather move somewhere else? The stick suddenly jumps somewhere and center may no longer be center. Eventually, one must center the stick and somehow tell the game that it is centered and matches the in game trimmed position.

The reason for central trimmer mode to work the way it does is to try and closely match that of the real shark. In the real shark, you press the trim button and the cyclic is then centered in that position. This means if you take your hand off the cyclic then, it stays in that position. With a non FFB stick, you press the trim button, the virtual stick is now centered in that position, but your physical joystick is not centered. This is why all input is disabled until you center your physical stick because your physical stick and the in game stick are no longer in sync. Once you move your stick back to center, it now is in sync again with the stick in game. As pointed out, this extra movement back to center is not present in the real shark but its the best compromise for using a non-FFB.

I second checking out Freetrack. I bought a PS3 Eye Toy for $15 and bought a TrackClip Pro since I had no experience and I wanted something fast. It works perfectly with Freetrack. The movement is extremely smooth and accurate in sim. In fact, I don't see how TrackIR could be any smoother. The main downsides to Freetrack are you have to come up with your own camera and clip and the software can be difficult to get working at times. There are several guides around though on how to set everything up.

In the real shark, the trimmer button just controls where the stick is centered. So per your example, if the pilot moves the stick forward 20 and clicks trim, the stick will stay at 20 forward. If the pilot then clicks and releases trim without moving the stick again, nothing happens. The stick simply remains centered where it was before which means the attitude of the shark is exactly the same as it was before. This is why a FFB stick is great when flying because it simply works the same way as the real stick.

Series is both the singular and plural form of the word. You can have a series or multiple series. Serie is not a word. I know this can be confusing to non-native English speakers and am glad you got it working!

digital combat simulator

I am having an error with smoke not showing up in my exported Shkval. A vehicle will be on fire with a column of smoke coming out but when viewed through the Schval, no smoke is shown. This includes both the smoke that comes out before a vehicle explodes and the smoke the comes out of a destroyed vehicle wreck. This also does not happen every time; sometimes you can see the smoke through the Shkval. Any ideas? For added information, I am using SoftTH and exporting my Shkval view to a second monitor.

Have you tried using it without any SST software? I have had some problems with the SST software not working at times so I have ended up not even using SST. I simply program all of the controls in game. As far as drivers. I simply plugged in the x65 and let windows install the drivers. In the past I have used the beta drivers and didn't have any problems with them. If you continue to have problems you may have a defective unit and I would recommend sending it back.

If you didn't change any hardware between installs then it shouldn't use up any activations. As far as not being able to click on anything, first check to make sure that the disable aero interface box in the options menu is not checked. If that doesn't solve your problem, try alt-tabbing out and back in before unpausing to start a mission. This should fix any issues of not being able to click on things.

I would definitely recommend moving to DCS World and using the A10 module. Your cd key from steam will work fine. As for freetrack, try using the attached binaries. HeadTracker Binaries.zip

Go into options in game where the axis controls are assigned. Select the wheel brakes and click tune axis, then put a check in the invert axis checkbox.

As far as switching to a GBA, I'm not overly concerned. This switch will allow for better and faster processors in the future. The current architecture can only go so far. You can only pack so many transistors so densely on a board before heat becomes too much of a problem. I only upgrade my CPU every 2 years or so and by then the new mainboard is usually needed anyways. What does worry me is if this starts a trend of also having permanent RAM or other features that one would normally replace more often or intermittently. I don't think this will actually happen, but I do have a little bit of worry. Good PCs are simply too expensive to buy them all at once.

As stated before, if it is just a little then it is simply the helicopter. Due to the coaxial design, the faster the forward movement, the more right rudder needs to be applied to maintain straight flight.

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You can install the current DCS:World 1.2 without touching your other installs. Since you have the older version of World installed you may want to install 1.2 to a new directory (such as c:\dcsworld). After installing World, install the A-10c and BS2 Upgrade modules. Since you already have BS1 installed the BS2 upgrade module should install without any problems. I am currently running World 1.2 and my A-10c 1.1.1.1 and BS2 1.1.1.1 upgrade standalone versions are still installed and run perfectly.