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Everything posted by Hobo
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Airspeed Indicator vs HUD Indicated Airspeed
Hobo replied to Cool-Hand's topic in DCS: A-10C Warthog
It does look spot on on the big needle, not sure what's going on with the small dial. -
Well, I've come to the point to start the slow process of transforming my cheap wood pit frame into something that remotely resembles a pit. The pit as it stands is nothing compared to anything worth while on here and is embarrassing to show. It is a wood frame I put together to have a general style pit feel for variations in aircraft. It was build around an X-65, but that was recently exchanged for a TM Warthog. It is a two monitor setup in top down configuration. I have a custom pit box that uses a GP-Wiz40. It handles my AHCP, partial fuel panel, electrical panel, and the rarely (more than I like) eject button. I don't have anything else that is custom built, but I have a Logitech G13 for my UFC and my keyboard is completely configured to do CDU inputs. All these things have really made flying a whole new experience, but of course I've noticed other things that I would like to have to make things even more convenient. So I sat down and thought about some of the stuff that I frequently have to change on the fly while, well, flying. That would be the radios and ILS/TACAN panels. Well I can dream big, but I'll focus on the tri-stack radios. I saw a thread somewhere (maybe even not on ED) that someone built an all-in-one radio stack which was an AN/ARC-164 replica. Somehow they had a rotary selector or something similar that they could chose between the three radios. While I would enjoy building all three, budgetary constraints does not allow for it. So this all-in-one is something I want to build. But... I don't know where to start. I've read through DMs (a lot of pages of posts), Bolts and other peoples builds and cannot find a breakdown on the radios. Oh and did I mention that the only electrical experience I really have is the pit box I made? :) So this is me asking for your help. What I am looking for is a complete hardware breakdown. I'm not too concerned on the replica plate with engraving, as I can easily do some wood working that can last until I eventually make a nicer pit that suits my flying needs. I figure I need 5 rotary encoders, 2 potentiometers (or rotary selector switches), 1 selector switch for switching between the radios, a Arduino style lcd screen, and a board that handles rotary encoding. So what I'm asking is for hardware breakdown and help with understanding what I need to do to get it to work properly. So: What board recommendations - with little or no software needs Rotary encoder hardware suggestions Rotary switch recommendations Knob suggestions - replica preferred, but close low-cost solution would be nice. General suggestions Pictures of your radio stack build (with insight to help) I'm US based so US vendors are preferred for obvious cost reasons. Thank you in advance for any help and thank you for bearing with my ignorance.
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Serial Number: 25376 Location: US I bought from Amazon on Friday, received it on Sunday.
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The beginning points to start with is the sticky thread in this Forum. It shows how yo build a little pit box with switches. Going beyond that you unfortunately would need to look through individual builds. If you're looking for an A10C setup, there's a bunch of good info on Deadman's A10 thread. Be prepared to sift through pages and pages though :)
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Bought A-10C from ED store, How to install in STEAM
Hobo replied to jn1053's topic in Installation Problems
DCS World should be what you add to steam, nothing else, following Interceptor's instructions. -
Unless the flight lead is at the upper limits of mil power thus forcing rejoining flight members to use afterburner, then I would still say no. I don't know how realistic fuel consumption is on BMS as to real world. For the sake of argument, let's say it's close. I takeoff and maintain 5 degrees up at 300 IAS until my flight of 4 rejoins, usually within 100-200 lbs difference. So it should be pretty close unless they're forced into that situation or they don't manage their fuel consumption properly. :)
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Thanks. :worthy::smartass:
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I've read it already. And yes Turbo, Eno is correct. I also am correct in my statement provided the information from the OP (or lack there of). These are both plausible reasons as to being hit by the SA-13.
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Was your altitude of 13000'+ MSL or AGL? It was likely MSL. The next thing to keep in mind is the altitude between you and the SA-13. So what was the ground level altitude of the SA-13? If say it was up to 2000', then of course you would be inside of that envelope.
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I'm not a subject matter expert by any means, but the simple answer would be yes. As you've probably noticed on landing the AOA indicator changes with optimum speed based on gross weight of the aircraft. So it would not be optimal to formation land if your wingman has quite more ordinance/gross weight than you do. This is where a good flight/element lead comes in to play. I could go on and on, but generally during training the same amount of fuel should be used across the entire flight, with the exception of a few hundred pounds for rejoin, and the same amount of ordinance should be dropped. Therefore, everyone should be close to the same gross weight on landing.
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Obviously I'm not Paul, but the answer is yes. http://youtu.be/xPgqPRDZ_dU From my understanding straight in approach is the most common landing, with ILS/night landing second, and overhead break third. Formation landing is a requirement on occasion.
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DCS Hawk.
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For the troubleshooting, turn TIR off and press default view resets of num0, num5, and numEnter. If the view is offset your can reset it by using a combination of movement commands and zoom commands to set it where you want. Once you've found the point that you want to and want to make that position default, you will want to press the default key combo of ralt+num0. After that shut down DCS, turn TIR back on, and run DCS again. I would suggest making your TIR key combination to something like lshift+f9. I have yet to find a game/simulation that uses that key combination.
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I like all the extra toggles vs the X65 box. The rotaries may be a pretty exciting feature for most looking for the Saitek crap spring system. Wish the x65 throttle looked like that.
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Axis mapping as buttons, x52 non-pro
Hobo replied to JetlinerX's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
Glad to see you got it working. Saitek products are fickle beasts. Having used Saitek products for 10+ years, I really recommend doing as much Direct Input for your controls as possible. The profiler will sometimes "jam" up and cause overlapping commands, especially with multi-key commands. With my X-52 I had some minor command issues with DCS and major command problems with BMS. In DCS I had bombs not dropping, gear not coming down, etc. In BMS I would have missiles not firing until I would TMS right, and the list goes on. My issues seemed like the profiler was not getting the intended commands out quick enough so say command one is ctrl+1 and command two is shift+2, when pressing both in quick and close succession, I would find output problems such as: ctrl+shift+1, 2. Since moving to Direct Input, I have had 0 issues. I upgraded shortly after all those problems to the X-65 and continue to have no issues. -
Just broke my track lip pro. Need comfort
Hobo replied to bojangles_25's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
I broke mine at both joints. I did the electrical tape repair and so far so good. The only thing you have to be concerned with is finding the exact placement from your headset. -
A-10C, much more vulnerable than it sounds to be ...
Hobo replied to Hueyman's topic in DCS: A-10C Warthog
Agreed, that is one thing that is not simulated - the psychological effects of the A-10. -
Trackir jumpy when looking down
Hobo replied to Dudester22's topic in PC Hardware and Related Software
What version TIR do you have? I have TIR 4 with the PRO clip and it gets jumpy at extremes. I've had mine since it first came out and had to lower the IR filter in the software. But beware of any sun reflections, or backlighting when messing with it. I know for me an upgrade is due. -
Did you make the ICP/UFC? If not where did you get them and cost? What's the breakdown on components, parts, costs, etc? I'm only asking because some of the guys I fly with and I are interested in that setup.
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Still no support for this? Browser reading sucks when using my mobile device. +1 to tapatalk
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I'm interested in this. Count me in. Can we get a sticky for this post?
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Help! FC3 Installer does not see Lockon, so won't install
Hobo replied to Bahger's topic in Payment and Activation
I believe the registry issue is what's holding you back. It could be something Vista related as I had too many problems with it. I'm running Win7 64x myself. -
Help! FC3 Installer does not see Lockon, so won't install
Hobo replied to Bahger's topic in Payment and Activation
I had DCSW and A10C installed prior to downloading LOMAC and installing it. I then registered and ran LOMAC to make sure it was in the registry properly. I was able to install FC3 without any problems. What is your OS and are you able to register and run LOMAC? -
This information can be found in DCS World\Scripts\Database\db_countries.lua and looks like the rank is the same for no matter which country you chose but the medals are different based on each country. Here's the list for USA. Experience based for medals: 200 - Air Medal 600 - Purple Heart 1000 - Bronze Star 1400 - Airman's Medal 1800 - Distinguished Flying Cross 2200 - Silver Star 2600 - Air Force Cross 3000 - Air Force Medal of Honour Flight Hours for Rank: 0 - Second Lieutenant 15 - First Lieutenant 30 - Captain 60 - Major 120 - Lieutenant Colonel 240 - Colonel
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The one posted by Cedaway is a good choice, there's a bunch of others like.. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=waterproof+keyboard I have a few keyboards that have found a pepsi in it after the cat decided to go panic attack and run across the desk. The worst being my G15 keyboard. Nothing like a little tlc of popping off each of the keys and cleaning it out with cuetips and rubbing alcohol. Fortunately everything electronic of mine that has met a liquid, to include a cellphone in the toilet, has always worked without any loss of it's use.