BrassEm

:smartass: Whoever pays for the patent first wins. Then sues the F*$# out of everyone else. Just ask Micro$oft about force feedback...

Many thanks Milopapa for taking the time to take some photos and post up a great little review. Time to damage the Credit Card again...

Excellent work Anton! Will be following this build.

@Milopap An excellent Mod! :thumbup: Would you be kind enough to post the details on the Hat switch assemblies you get from thrustmaster? I am having great difficulty finding a reasonable supplier for Hat switches. @Sokol1_br With the addition of an OP Amp circuit you can modify the pot characteristics no problem. With this example I got full linear pot range from 280° down to 90°. (R3/6 adjusts FSD and R2/5 adjusts Zero. Excess angle is just rail voltages, just need to put mechanical stops in then.)

And of course Chris Bergison didn't just leave it at the G-Seat... http://hornetpits.org/index.php?topic=470.0 He also mentions about the seat shaking when firing the A-10 Gun and head shift on G loading on his site. http://bergison.simpit.info/g-seat-faq Something to aspire too. :thumbup:

MiG-21 please. (Many thanks for sharing your excellent work!)

Excellent work Schredder! You get the best of both worlds with this mod for sure with a grip with lots of switches and true FFB! (Just gotta love the Arduino's! And the X-55 gave itself up for a better life. Would look at putting a 4 way on the C thumb position too.) Do you still have the dimensions for the adaptor at all that you could share? I will be watching this thread eagerly to see how you get on with the beefing up of the motors. (I'm testing with a pololu 33926 driver, 60mm 15W motors and some Actobotics gears. Still assembling.) Well done and thanks for sharing!!!!

Just an update on the switch caps. Received the shipment two weeks ago no problems. These caps are hard plastic compared to the VRinsight soft rubberised caps. The ID is 3mm / 0.118" and fit on the C&K straight shank switches okay. (Just need a tab of hot clue to fix in position.) But obviously won't fit the X-55 switches.

Excellent work spaceraver! Good instructions too. Definitely on the to-do list. Did you find you needed changes in curve settings?

The mighty Inta Humar wait patiently on your great works.

Nice find. Purchased some to see if they fit. Cheap enough even if I need to drill the hole out a bit.

G'day Tarvis, Absolutely. It was simply the fact that I could not find a pot suitable without a major rework of the stick. If there is now one available that fits I would seriously look at installing that myself. The resistance was a measured open and hard close. I used all resistance measurements as I needed load values for the circuit. (I will check my notes though to see if I did take voltages at some stage.)

Those pennies are gold! Thanks for adding the conversion keys.ini file Mighty. It is great to see the original CDU works too! I got your pm and looking forward to expanding the options with this.

Absolutely stunning work (again) Capt! Also great news about the Beryoza too! Many many thanks for your efforts.

Thank you for the rapid response! Having a working model to use really helps. After some trial and error I finally got an SA-15 tunga model into the replays! It all started working right after I renamed the mesh directory from "meshes" to "Meshes"! :doh: Time to start pumping out some SAM models. Thanks again!

G'day Vyrtuoz, Brilliant work with this app! I never get tired of watching the generated replays. As an Inta Humar combatant I have tried to update the SAM launcher models without success after following the instructions. (At this stage I cannot even get a box to show.) Would it be possible to post a working obj model to test porting it to other models in tacview as a test/structure reference? (1.3.3 64bit pro)

+1 please.

They obviously didn't thunk that one through properly. Good for a laugh though, funny how they sped the video up. Should have made it quicker, undo the belt harness and really fly!!!!

That is a good question. None that I've seen other than Saitek giving a hole mounting diagram for the whole base. Obviously not really suitable for what you want I would think. From the connectors on the base of the stick handle it looks like the stick handle is sending serial data to the base. What you can possible do is hard wire the stick to the base with longer wires, one to one, to give you the extention. How far you can extend via the added wires would need to be experimented with. I know the logic works on 3.3vdc, and would have to assume the transmission is not buffered. So you might get a foot or two before the stick goes haywire. (For myself I will be modifying the stick for my own central seat layout, but I will be fitting a new control processor for the stick hardware. Also figuring out how to make it interchangeable with other devices too like a yoke.) If I find any direct extention details I willl post it here.

Stock reinstall of the drivers.exe from MadCatz -> NO! All I ever got was the (Bulk) drivers and that is all!!! So... Extracted the appropriate files from the driver.exe then in a DOS PROMPT (as admin) pnputil -a SaiG2215.inf (The missing one) to install the driver and register it in registry. Then updated the HID drivers in DEVICES till I hit the updated SaiG2215.sys (There is no indication which one it is, just got to go through them till you hit it.) and it will then restore the "Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Stick" entry. (I had to do that for all the drivers on the X-55 to get it to work out of the box brand new! :mad::mad::mad:, that is also why I listed them here. ) Don't get me wrong, it is a great HOTAS, when it works.

Installation double check After weeks of intermittent throttle problems I got it sorted and I am posting to give a heads up. The X-55 was working fine for months, then the stick buttons would stop working intermittently in DCS. Control panel Devices and Printers all good. HUD would work, jump in game and would not work, HUD test okay, jump in game no. HUD test okay, jump in game okay. Restart mission and not work in game, HUD test okay, would only work with HUD test up. All the time the throttle was working fine, every time. But the stick was flakey. Utter frustration!!!!!! Control Panel DEVICES AND PRINTERS reported both the Stick and Throttle okay. Drilling down the X-55 installation you should see the following in DEVICE MANAGER; Human Interface Devices Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Stick (<-- Mine went AWOL!) Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Stick (Bulk) Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Stick (HID) Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Throttle Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Throttle (Bulk) Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Throttle (HID) Saitek Magic Bus Programmable Hotkeys Programmable Root Enumerator Programmable Support for Keyboard Programmable Support for Mouse DRIVER FILE DETAILS UNDER DEVICE MANAGER; HID Drivers Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Stick C:\windows\system32\drivers\SaiG2215.sys (<-- Mine went AWOL) C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll? Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Stick (Bulk) C:\windows\system32\drivers\Said2215.sys C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Stick (HID) C:\windows\system32\drivers\SaiK2215.sys C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll Saitek Pro FLight X-55 Rhino Throttle C:\windows\system32\drivers\SaiGa215.sys C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Throttle (Bulk) C:\windows\system32\drivers\Saida215.sys C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino Throttle (HID) C:\windows\system32\drivers\SaiKa215.sys C:\windows\system32\drivers\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll Saitek Magic Bus Programmable Hotkeys windows\system32\drivers\SaiMini.sys Programmable Root Enumerator windows\system32\drivers\SaiBus.sys Programmable Support for Keyboard windows\system32\drivers\SiaMini.sys Programmable Support for Mouse C:\windows\system32\drivers\SiaMini.sys Nothing wrong with the hardware or software, just a driver went missing. Just something to double check if you are having some issues over and above the USB power problem. .

Thanks Bourrinopathe. These are probably just as expensive with shipping... Vrinsightshop.com. (There is a 10 pack of white.) I.D is approx 5.3mm. They fits snuggly over the X-55 switches. At full throttle, H4 is close to TGL3 but not a show stopper. I fill these caps and drill to fit over the smaller standard C&K switches. I was going to build an arduino based Overhead/Pedestal but Helios got the better of me.

Thank you! Its under Messaging and Notifications. When sending private messages the forum can make a copy of the message in your Sent Items folder. [ ] Save a copy of sent messages in my Sent Items folder by default

Thanks for the kind words! From looking at it, it is only driven by the microcontroller as a simple toggle switch, on/off. The HUD driver only sees it as a switch also. So at this stage that's all we've got. The microcontroller that they use on the X-55 is extremely powerfull. If they release a SDK, that would open a whole raft of possibilities. But then you need the driver software to suit as well. The mouse nipple appears to be treated as a special case by the controller. So the tactile switch did not show up as a raw button in DCS. :( The HUD has to be used in a configuration for the nipple to function.

X-55 Mouse Nipple Modification - PART TWO X-55 MOUSE NIPPLE MODIFICATION - PART TWO Created by BrassEm 2015. START OF PART TWO Wire up the resistors to join to the existing wires as per the schematic. IMPORTANT NOTE; because the resistors are so small and it is very hard to distinguish between the values. The 560 ohm resistors were painted/marked to distinguish them. Wire up the 4 way tactile switch as per the schematic. Solder together and heatshrink/insulate. Tack the switch into position with a small amount of hot glue. Make sure of the up orientation. Pointing just to the left of the microswitch should give an average up across the throttle movement range. Try out the switch to make sure it is perpendicular to the board, the stalk is in the middle of the hole quadratures, and the up is where you want. When happy tack the switch down further to secure it. (You may want to change its position late so don't go overboard with the hot glue.) Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. Double check the switches to make sure they are working. NOTE: When closing the two shells together ensure that the main cable running from the the throttle is not pinched. This can be very difficult to achieve. After it's all screwed back together, plug in and test. Do not forget to set the mouse feed rates low in the HUD before it is tested. The mouse nipple is now working reliably and consistantly as a 4 way tactile switch. .