jay43

Yes you can, using Photoshop i am able to open up the DDS file which converts it to a PSD file i can then do any editing to the file as i see fit and when i am finished closing it converts it back to the DDS file. I do have a Nvidia Photoshop 64bit app running in the background which does this file conversion for you. And before you ask where i got the app it came with my card.

Look in your liveries folders everything you are all asking for is there.

Did you clear the input files from saved games.

We all have it check in the skins folder its there.

Thats a very nice set up you have there i would like to know now you have them working how well they work with the Huey.

It is there i have edited the pilots uniform and gunners plus helmets.

How does the coolie hat connect inside the throttle does it plug in or did you have to solder it, it haven't personally opened up that side. The wires must run down the shaft of the throttle to the base so like albell67 said check the base for broken contacts as the throttle gets pulled and pushed there may not be enough slack in the wires from day dot and perhaps one or two of them have stretched and snapped or even been pulled from their points. Or if theres a plug to the board at the base end it may have worked lose. Also they have changed the wiring configuration of these through different productions. Sorry for the late reply but i have been flying.

Both sides of each throttle come off once the screws are out, however you may find the coolie hat is glued in with hot melt glue or it could just be a simple nut and washer that unscrews. I have had the left throttle apart because my wife picked up the throttle during her dusting even though she is under strict instructions not to touch my desk or anything on it. Bless her she didn't realise how heavy it was picking it up one handed and lost her grip and dropped it on the floor which subsequently broke the little pinkie switch on the side. Fortuitously it didn't actually break i opened up the throttle from both sides unscrewed the switch prised it open and the pole inside had bent ever so slightly causing the switch to become jammed, straightened it out and all working again. So in answer to your question yes you can and theres quite a bit of room inside both of them depending on the size of your fingers take pictures to as you go along so you have a reference to go back to incase you forget what goes where.

There is nothing screwed up with the key bindings like it says in the change log you will need to delete your previous input files from your saved games directory otherwise you will not be able to use the new key bindings.

Just a heads up a lot of talk on here about the springs on joysticks and people cutting the joystick in half then cutting the wires and re-soldering it all back together, bad move. If you want to take the spring off altogether its super easy springs are not sealed units they have open ends, by this i mean you need to think of a spring as an extended version of a key ring so grab the pliers hook one of the open ends around the shaft and just twist it will come of easily. And reverse the order to put it back on.

No problems here mine are as they should be all fixed and have been since the first update which broke them it was so easy to fix it does surprise me that they haven't yet perhaps their efforts are being consumed else where.

Ha Ha Lizzard is on the ball already.

Nice i get ya Vampire like it very much and i bet no one chimes in and says you're wrong. Actually you maybe interested in this http://1stcavdiv.conceptbb.com/ we are always looking for new recruits for C company which are all from Oz or Nz.

I tried to say this months ago but got shot down by everyone saying i was wrong granted i didn't go into the detail that you did very nice.

Guys i use this stuff works like a charm https://sugru.com/

Thanks that sold them to me then sealed bearings are good and having open access to all moving parts is good to over the Saiteks which just get the plastic rails all gunked up with fluff and stuff causing them to stick and bind.

Its there but as John says its not working yet, i think but don't quote me its going to be included in the final product to give us the full start up and shut down procedure, i think its there to stop you from accidently throttling down whilst pulling and pushing on the collective.

On the collective and there is no axis for the search light its bound to buttons or a pov hat switch.

Simple solution is to get rid of that garbage win 8 and go back to win 7, win 8 causes so many problems its just not worth the hassle.

Theres a few of these types of pedals around now and the thing i like about them over the current contender is that all the moving parts are easily accessible to keep them clean and lubed.

It's like having to make a chirurgical operation on intestinal parts without a surgeon license! Lol love that analogy you are so right sir i get brain fry just reading it.

Did you re-calibrate in joy.cpl you will find its even better once calibrated.

Well i have never flown a real Huey but over at the http://1stcavdiv.conceptbb.com/ which you are more than welcome to come and join, we have real life instructor pilots from the US Army. And they all say the current model is about 99% accurate, all check rides follow the same criteria as the US Army. So what i said is basically how they teach us to do basic flight manoeuvres to your first set of wings and then we can progress from there to more advanced flight manoeuvres. But yes its pretty close to the real Huey now all be it some minor niggles.

Thats a good idea doright and i can tell all from experience that landing in a hot LZ or semi hot for the first time taking just small arms fire you will lose your ASI, ADI, compass, and sometimes your Descent metre plus radios. The vulnerable areas of the Huey lack protection and a couple of small arms hits to the front and its visual landings from then on, really can't wait for the door gunners AI to be implemented then we can get some suppressive fire on the way in and out i just hope they don't shoot the guys getting out they have a tendency to run into the blades. So don't focus to much on the instruments look out of the window at the horizon and beaware of your surroundings.

Suchacz, Good landings but you will die in combat due to the fact you are a sitting duck. For take off do a hover power check first very important, pull collective skids up off the deck say 5 ft check torque psi setting should be around 30 psi. Collective is now set do not touch it leave it alone stabilise the hover now ease the cyclic forward to nose her down to gain forward speed don't touch that collective let the blades bite on their own and she will push through ETL with barley a shimmer. Once you hit 70 knts hold it in the climb and level of at say 1000ft. For landing say at 45 degrees to the threshold from cockpit window reduce collective by 10 psi and hold her steady at no more than 500 fpm. Begin your turn as you pass the threshold viewing it out of side door just as the threshold disappears careful here you will bleed speed if you turn to sharp nice and gentle and don't raise the collective keep it at 20 psi. Now you're lined up for final speed should be around 60 knts and descent rate no more than 500 fpm . Reduce collective by 5 psi as you get closer to the runway and maintain descent path. When she hits 40 knts she is going to begin to get sucked into VRS so becareful here. Start to flare a little and start to ease the collective up to hold that descent don't flare to much now or you'll clout the tail on the runway, keep the nose up around 5 to 10 degrees and keep easing up the collective left pedal left pedal more collective and there you go ground effect hover and land. Granted all of the above happens very quickly takes longer to write than it happens and eyes off instruments look at the horizon you should only be glancing at the instruments.