andyfoot

Not wanting to insult your intelligence, but you are assigning the Collective aren't you? Not the Throttle? It was a mistake I made when I very first installed BS1, and I know other people made the same mistake who were new to BS. Also, just read in another thread that people are finding they have to move the relevant axis in both directions to be fully recognised and accepted in BS2. Try deleting the assignment, then re-assign and move the axis in both directions the full range several times.

I've left mine mapped to the Boat Switch (the default from when I installed) and it works fine. Wonder if it's a case of you need to see if there is a toggle setting you need to tick. Or is it that your x7 zoom is set on a switch as opposed to a button press, so when you press your assigned x23 button it overrides the "already set at" x7 zoom, but when you release the x23 button, the x7 switch is still inputting it's position so your zoom resets to x7. Just a thought!

Not sure if this is a bug, but I cannot map the Master Caution Accept/Reset button successfully using the in game mapping from the Options menu. The key command is for M, and I can map it to a button or HAT position, but it just will not function. i.e. I'll double click on the box that allows me to select which button I want to map to it, it accepts the button no problem (proving it is not my joystick or throttle, I have tried it with several buttons) and it is listed as the button, but it just does not function either in the game or in the Options menu. When I select other buttons for other commands, pressing the button whilst in the Options menu will take me to the relevant command, but this does not work with the Master Caution Accept/Reset. Anyone else experiencing this issue? I am running Win7, 64 bit, with a Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, Track IR5, Saitek Rudder pedals.

The updated vids are for playing from within BS2, which I haven't installed just yet, so can't comment on any differences.

Looks pretty good to me, lots of new eye candy. I see some of the tracks on the video downloads have been updated http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/downloads/video/ I'm just downloading the Familiarisation one for BS2, to see how/if it is any different from the original. A lot of the links don't work, I could only get the Torrent to work, bit slow but getting there.

Black Shark 2 released This was kept very quiet, or have I just not been looking in the right places? Compatible with DCS A10-C, that's a whole lotta fun!! http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/index.php?end_pos=135&scr=products&lang=en http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1317706#post1317706 I'm just too busy to take it on just now (redundancy, sorting out my life!), but it is top of my ToDo list as soon as I've sorted out some priorities. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=80907

I had been flying for a while before I realised you have to press and hold the TOT button. One day I pressed it and noticed the virtual stick move, so I pressed it again and watched it move to the Take Off Trim position, at which point the TOT light came on. It was one of those many "Ah Hah" moments I've had with this great Sim!

Thanks for this, been wondering if I could do this without using the Target software. I used to have the X52 Pro and had a similar setup with the throttle mouse, using it unshifted for TDC, shifted for mouse, but using the Saitek software.

I've just got an Asus Transfromer Tablet and would love to try a version of iControl. Shame it's on hold, but I guess it's only a matter of time.

My Pinky switch is also very light to the touch, I was wondering if mine was defective or not, seems it's a built in feature.

Update on my progress, recieved an email back from Thrustmaster (took approx 24 hours to respond), as follows: CUSTOMER SERVICE ANSWER Reference: [XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX] ______________________________________________________ Dear Mr. XXXXXXXX, Thank you for your request. In order to resolve the issue you have encountered with your HOTAS Warthog, please refer to our response herewith: We thank you for your choice of Thrustmaster products and for reaching us regarding your issue. In case under Game Controllers Panel the same switch offers the feedback that you are mentioning in your emial, this means that the switch is not working properly, it has a hardware fault and the quickest and the easiest way to eliminate this issue is to get in touch with your retailer and ask them to exchange the product under the warranty terms. To do this you will need the invoice. A second solution, but one that will take additional time, would be to start a RMA procedure for it - to send the defective platform to our technical service and get it repaired. If you have any other inquiries, we rest at your disposal. We hope that the information we have provided is useful and has helped to resolve your query. Have a good day and please remember that Thrustmaster Technical Support is at your disposal for any other information you may need. You can reach us via the Web at the following addresses: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng for the latest updates and FAQs or by telephone at one of the numbers listed on the following page: http://ts.Thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=contact Kind regards, Your Thrustmaster Technical Support Agent, Octavian PS: To ensure the most efficient follow-up of your query, please be sure to include the reference number [XXXXXXXXXXX] of your file in the subject line of any emails you may send us later on. ______________________________________________________ Your message: Hi, I emailed you a few days ago reference a non functional Alt/Hdg/Path switch, I'm presently at sea on a ship and don't have access to my normal email account. I cannot change my email address in the Edit Profile, therefore could you please repond to XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX thanks in advance. To reiterate my problem, I've just bought a new Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, all switches, buttons and axis work fine apart from the Throttle Alt/Hold/Path switch. In the windows Test/Calibration window it is identified as buttons 27 & 28, and they are both illuminated (red) regardless of switch position all the time. In DCS A10-C, it has no effect either. I have tried to uninstall/reinstall the drivers, as well as re-update the Firmware (think it's version 20 for Throttle and 11 for Joystick), but still have no response on this switch. I also removed the base plate to see if anything was loose, the switch is solidly mounted with no signs of loose connections or dry solder joints. I am a marine electrical engineer, so I have some idea as to what I'm looking at. I look forward to your response. If I don't receive a response within the next few days, I shall try to register as a new account with my onboard email address. So they've given me two options, I'll probably go for the first one of return to retailer as I'm back in Dubai in about three weeks. If that fails, then I'll RMA in Ocotber/November when I get back to UK. I'm quite happy with this level of customer support. When I take it back to the shop, I'm going to take my laptop and test the new one in the shop there and then.

Would be nice to have a spare paperweight, but it may take some time as I'm deployed in the Middle East and won't be back in the UK until October. I've just bought my TMW in Dubai, and I'm at sea now.

Just thought I'd see if anyone has had this issue, basically the three position switch for going between the three Autopilot modes does not work. In the windows calibration/test window it is buttons 27 & 28 (could be 26 & 27, not on my PC at the mo so can't check) and they are illuminated all the time, they don't change state. In DCS A10-C they have no response, all other buttons and axis work fine. I am at the latest Firmware version (think it's 20 for throttle and 11 for joystick) and I have tried re-updating the firmware a couple of times using the update programme, as well as uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers, but still no response. I took the base plate off to have a look, it is pretty solidly mounted onto a PCB, no dry solder joint or anything. I have emailed Thrustmaster, but thought I'd check in here to see if it's happened to others. Searching through the threads hasn't shown anything, but I've not always been successful when searching through the threads.

I like the sound of that!!!

Guess I missed that one!!

Maybe they could implement talking to the Ground Crew without using the radio comms when the canopy is open, ladder extended (like with the door open in Black Shark).

For those who've been looking, http://files.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/?arrFilter_pf%5Baircraft%5D=&arrFilter_pf%5Bfiletype%5D=3&arrFilter_pf%5Bgameversion%5D=59&arrFilter_pf%5Bfilelang%5D=&arrFilter_CREATED_USER_NAME=&set_filter=Filter&set_filter=Y

Thanks WarriorX

When I fly, very small (like 1cm) movement of stick to the left gives full deflection, as opposed to full travel (about 6cm) to right for full deflection. Have tried to uninstall/reinstall drivers/software/even the firmware. Tried on 2 PC's, same problem. Tried to fly around, but very twitchy with left bank, so can't control my flight accurately. In the Windows calibration, it the cursor sits in the lower left corner, and when I run the calibration I tick the Display Raw Data, and you can see it isn't reporting correctly. I've searched lots of forums, but can't find anyone else who's had this issue, so I've come to the conclusion it is a defective Hall Sensor/Joystick. Problem also is I'm going away tomorrow (until October) so don't have the luxury of waiting for Tech Support, but it is also 2nd hand (£240 from Amazon) so no guarantee like a brand new one. I will get another, once I have a refund, but I will be buying brand new.

Sweet, just in time for me going away tomorrow (until October). Glad something has gone right today, just had to return a 2nd hand HOTAS Warthog that arrived today, but the Joystick X Axis isn't working properly and not prepared to accept a 2nd hand £240 piece of hardware for that. Anyway, downloading now and also doing the Torrents and seeding for the benefit of others.

I've used GBU's on targets that started stationary, then decided to move off after weapons release. They were successfully tracked and destroyed, much to my surprise.

Tiger does it in at least one of his tutorials, (SOP 3 Pattern Circuit) which is a method I've now adopted as well http://www.youtube.com/user/Tigerpwrr#g/u On the topic of rolling away on start up, you can also step on your rudder to stop rolling away, not forgetting to engage NWS of course.

I recently flew a mission, can't remember which one but one from the Push Campaign (flying as single missions) and I got a 9 line from a Predator. I didn't realise at the time, but the Predators don't give you data transmissions (I didn't even get a message on MFCD) so you don't get a red triangle on your TAD, and the coordinates he gave me where in UTM, but I had the wrong grid zone set. I used the Offset and got my target spot on. When I changed my grid zone to double check, I was at the right spot, so in this instance it "saved the day". I'm now in the habit of writing down bearing/range and UTM coordinates in case I have a transmission failure.

JTAC often gives you an offset from a Waypoint such as your IP, sometimes it's easier to find your target from there by using the Offset page of the CDU or just looking on your MFCD TAD page and you can have a good idea where the target is without even punching in the details. It can be quicker to also put in the Offset data than using the UTM coordinates, and sometimes you can get confused with UTM when different grid zones are involved (37T or 38T). It is worth going through the Offset tutorials and learn how to use it, it is an incredibly easy and useful tool to have at your disposal. I used to fly around listening to all the calls coming in completely oblivious to what they really meant. Now I punch in as many as I can to the Offest page, and if I'm struggling to find targets, I just cycle through what I've punched in. Very useful when you hear a SAM call, with the Offset page dialled up it is a short string of numbers to enter, make a new steerpoint, call that up on your TAD or HUD, slave TGT Pod to it and take it out.

Thanks again, another superb tutorial. Trying to learn more about Navigation and CDU at the moment, this came just at the right time. I look forward to your next instalment.