BitMaster

^^That I also recommend to deinstall Gforce Experience unless you need it. Your PC feels better w/o it LoL Enjoy

my oldest son had the same couple weeks ago...and he's 20. Got nothing to do with age btw. He said it came so slowly he only noticed when he was obviously already half deaf. Pulled that plug out and now he hears everything again LoL. Has the rig arrived yet ?

Hiob's spot on. Stick with 3600 or 3200 MHz, both preferably with low latency. If you check my sig, I run 3200CL14 @ 3600CL14 with just a little voltage bump, rocksolid in 24/7 ever since. It heavily depends on your CPU if RAMs faster than 3600 will work and make sense. Since you are asking RAM questions, I dare to say in your case "Don't even try unless you look for grey hair and a RMA"...and the benfit would be very small if any at all. Higher MHz often comes with more latency and that spoils the whole idea. The best balance of both, + price, is 3200-3600 CL14 to CL16 depending on the market and country etc...

I second the above threads, a laptop will always be TDP limited. If you can, get the smallest FormFactor you can live with, water-cool whatever is possible and you will likely be faster and cheaper. If you really need a laptop, buy one that offers a LONG warranty period and get that on day 1. The heat puts a lot of stress on the device and they are bound to fail and hard to fix. Asus for example wants you to send the laptop to their repair store, expect 4-8 weeks. Dell comes to your home NBD. There are BIG differences when it comes to how nice warranty is handled. I for one won't go the Asus route again, been there twice, Dell/Alienware is way way faster to get you going again. Just my experiences with laptops and Extended Warranty Contracts.

I would not invest in any card with <10GB VRAM and make sure you have more than 16GB, 32GB if you fly certain combinations of module and map even in SP and best is to get 64GB right away as some modules and maps directly tab into the 40+GB range as soon as you enter the sim. If you intend to fly lots of MP, look for those threads regarding 32 vs. 64 GB and what the guys who did the change had to say.

Always keep THIS setting at 144Hz, no matter if you want to lock FPS at i.e. 60 or 120. It corresponds with the Win10/11 monitor settings refresh rate, they change together if you alter any one of them. If I got this right myself, if you lock it at 60fps for example, the screen will refresh 60 times in a second..tho it could 144 times..but it doesnt need to to run properly. It's like sticking to 3rd gear and 60mph and not let the dogs loose in 4th and 5th...tho you could if you wanted to but you have reasons not to ( TiR flicker or Cops behind you ). My screen always runs 144Hz, regardless if locked fps or not. It's one of the settings you set once and only check if it still says 144 after some updates etc... set&keep.

Regarding controls: Read my post above yours, yes, it does matter and most noticeable for me when flying helicopters and hovering, that's where 30 fps suck, 60 are OK and 90+ are great, and I can tell the difference till around ~100fps. The more fps the smoother the input, especially if you have lots of changes of axis in a short time and you really want your front wheels or elevator or swash-plate to do all those steps, as analog as possible..many many many dots to form a line. The more dots you can place on the chart for the 1 sec interval the more complex axis manouvers you can reproduce in the sim. With 30 dots you can do far less than with 60 or 120... I could think of drifting a car sideways with permanent wheel input left&right works far better at 144Hz than with 45fps. You can jank the stick around as much as you want in 1 second, at the end of that 1 second only 30 points where used and connected. The looks of that path printed with 30 dots looks very different to one that could record 60, 90 or 120 or 240fps. Maybe that helps to understand why fps matters beyond eye candy

If it wasn't we'd already have it. I hope till 2025..

TiR's native polling rate is 120Hz, so that's why 120fps/Hz fits best IF your GPU can maintain that level. For us mortals, 60fps must be good enough LoL. 30fps is borderline flyable. It is enough to get addicted but not enough to hover a Mi-8 or Huey on the spot, that really shines with more fps, even 60 feels less responsive than 90-120fps imho, but for fixed wing or anything but hovering and AAR 60 is good.

Your Memory is still Dual-Channel. 4 slots are being populated but that is not the same as a Quad-Channel setup. The 11900KF only has 2 channels.

It's all about the Gauges and MFDs. Once those are readable clearly it's a big step forward. Meanwhile I personally think that I would love to play on my 55" 4k @ 4k. A thing I never thought would be my preference but watching all those 4k YT vids about DCS made me change my mind, despite that the YT codec takes the icing off the cake. 1440p is a good sweet spot, most cards can cope with it and until 4k cards are mainstream 4k will remain a top end solution for a few only tho things look better now as prices come down. I certainly wished I had a big 4k screen at solid 60fps with decent eye candy...LoL. Watching a YT vid at my 55" at 4k and then go and fly on my 27" 1440p became kinda strange.

None of the AMD I have build lately suffers those symptoms, I know they are true but they are not present on all systems, actually it's a minority. It sucks if you are among those few, no doubt. I think, AMD is the much much more polished platform. It is less hassle to install, maintain and update and at least for my own rig, never had a single BSOD since I built it last fall, knock on wood. In 25 years Intel I never had a single system with no BSOD for 9 months in a row, absolut robust sleep/wake-up function and tons of power when you need all cores and all RAM. Looking at the actual TDP, Intel falls miles behind when you really need all cores and RAM filled, I like that mine stops at 142W and not 242W, or 342W or now >400W with the 13th gen. Maybe if the Gas supply to EU really stops I might think about gaming on a 13900k to heat my house, not before.

Wel, there are multiple reasons why adding another kit of RAM modules to an already existing one may end in pulled hair and SPD defaults. Maybe the easiest one to understand is that you will likely not get the exact same batch of IC's on your new modules, even if they are the same brand, model and spec there are real chances that the IC's are differently spec'ed or even from a different vendor ( Samsung, Micron, Hynix, etc. ) without saying anything about that on the packaging. That is something your IMC does not like at all, a mix of modules. The higher the speed, the tighter the latency and the bigger the GB-size the harder it gets for the IMC to manage all that and not fail once. You might get lucky, you may pull your hair. You will find out once you go that route.

Yes indeed, if the Overlay ( and thus also Windows CP settings ) say 240Hz it should stay there. Have you installed the .inf file for your monitor or is it listed as a Plug&Play Monitor in Device Manager ? That could possibly explain such things. You are on DP cable ? I assume yes.

OK, as usual, another approach to the problem: Online Banking and Online Email Services do not store data anywhere on your computer but some cookies, nothing that could be used against you. The easiest way to wipe all of that stuff from your PC is to create a new user with admin privileges and once you have logged into that one, delete your old "BuzzU" account and choose "delete all my files and folders as well" ( or similar, mine is german ). That will destroy the old account, including all files and folders under C:\users\BuzzU.For those saying one can recreate the files deleted, yes, some agency or well skilled hacker could but no ordinary hunting mate, let's stay realistic. There are other ways to clean out Windows, one is even ment to be used before you give the PC away to unknown people. It basically does the same thing, wipes all accounts but also deletes most of the software/drivers installed. ..and it takes HOURS to complete...I'd rather install from scratch, seriously. The "feature" is located in the Recovery section of CP The last option I want to mention, reinstall Windows from USB and format the drives during the setup....or just FORMATthe drives with a USB bootstick and send the machine with blanked drives. Again, unless you wipe the drives with Method-XYZ, DoD-abc and the NSA123 method things can potentially be restored, maybe not so with SSDs but who knows. You don't own thousands of Bitcoins neither do you manage your 3 Yacht's online nor check your 2 dozen Swiss Bank Accounts to see how the Billions grow...so I wouldn't be too nervous about being compromised this way....99,99% chances all will be good. If your Pal does not know much about computing, sending him a PC with blanked drives might not be a good idea...The Hunting Forum would have to take over then LoL Send me a PM if you think Teamviewer would be a good idea. I can lend you a hand/mouse to clean it out safely while you watch it. Just shoot me a PM.

Yeah, don’t go the Intel DDR5 route, the 5800X delivers for less money and stays cooler overall. keep the info coming

BuzzU, have a ton of FUN !!!

It's not possible to really say yes or no as it depends on the IC's used to make your modules. The 32GB module is likely made of 16x 16Gbit IC's = 32GB/module = 2 Ranks/module = 4 Ranks total The 16GB module can be 16x 8Gbit -or- 8x 16Gbit. Samsung B-die only came as an 8Gbit die, Micron i.e. has 16Gbit IC's, etc... they have the pros and cons. What you were asking I assume is the amount of Ranks vs. bandwidth. In any case, you have at least 4 Ranks, maybe even 8. The more ranks, the more stressfull for the IMC. It all gives and takes, you gotta find the sweetspot. 16Gbit IC's have a lesser timing but can achieve higher frequencies, so in order to make them shine you have to fly north of 4000MHz to overcome the latency penalty. On the other hand, a nice B-die may not like speeds at or above 4000MHz but will offer you great timings. Take your pick

The best would be to have a guy close to you that could assemble the parts for you, while you make a nice BBQ, that sorta thing. The benefits of a DIY are very clear, you just need to find a solution for "I really don't wanna put it together all by myself"....which I totally get. It is not for everyone and pushing you towards that is not the ideal solution but programmed frustration, we don't want that. Could you find somebody in your area that you know that could lend you a hand ? It's a couple hours...

More than I need to be honest. Still miss a few airplanes but got most of them and all maps and carrier etc.. I started to collect a decade ago and built it up over that time, slowly but steadily. This will keep me busy till I die and then some more, strangely I still buy new modules knowing I won't have time to fly them, must be the cave man in me edit* my install size as of today is 413GB I assume with the ~10 planes I am missing it will be way beyond 500GB for those who own them all.

Yep, same here, but I will wait till my 1080ti dies For me current needs and 1440p it's still ok. If it was cheaper to replace I might would have already but my plan was to skip 2-3 GPU generations anyway. New card should have twice the ooomps than what it replaces for less money...maybe I have to wait for the 5th generation for this to happen.

I have a Fanatec similar to yours next to me and also a Logitech wheel, you really can't compare rudder pedals to car pedals, the movement is totally different and the forces on brake, clutch and gas are also all different to each other, that is really strange when taxiing LoL. You need car pedals for your 911 laps and MFG Crosswinds for the Focke Wulf or hovering a Heli. I really don't think it's fun to use car pedals for a Focke Wulf or Apache and neither would I like to lap Nordschleife in a 911 with MFG's under my feet...that is even more strange..ooah. Yes, it's a mess with many controllers, heck, wherever I turn my head are black controllers and wheels of any kind plus the spaghetti of cables, directly linked tho the never ending" I need more USB ports" problem. That's the pay-off. Accept the mess

Unless you tell us the price we can't say if it's a good or bad deal. Regardless of the money, it will run DCS, with 16 or 32GB but I would directly order 64GB if I was you. The answer or explanation to this can found many times over in this forum, right here. Disk Space, well, my current DCS install is >400GB and I don't even own all modules but all maps, so depending what you aim for, prepare to buy more diskspace down the road. If you really want only 1 drive, 500GB is way too small and cause problems pretty soon. Get a 1TB if you want to have OS + DCS on 1 drive. Get a 2TB if you want more than OS+DCS, like other big sims or games, music, videos, pics etc.. As Bossco82 pointed out while I am typing this, LoL, your 3070 will not be a VR or 4K Killer but very nice for 1440p and overklill for 1080p, mind that. Also, I would not directly relate GS' top quality content to Apex, frankly speaking. Usually they all cut corners here or there and usually, they hide behind general terms like "Apex AIO Cooler" "750W PSU Gold" , they neither make their own AIOs nor PSUs. That's where you have to watch closely to not buy something you really didn't want to. Make sure it's a good brand name PSU and AIO.

Ehhh, you are mixing up terms. Channels and Ranks. Your CPU has 2 memory channels, each of those can be populated with 2 modules. Each module can be Single Rank or Dual Rank and not every combination of amount of modules & size & speed and number of Ranks is suited for every CPU. There are limitations, just check the QVL for RAM of that CPU and Board. 64GB for example can be 4x16GB, but those 16GB modules can be made of 8-Gbit chips or 16-Gbit chips on the module. With 8-Gbit you need 16 chips on the module ( Dual Rank ) and with 16-Gbit chips you only need 8 chips ( Single Rank ). Samsung B-die was only made as 8-Gbit, so any 16GB module with B-die is a Dual Rank, like the ones I use. I have another kit of B-die, 4x8GB with 8 x 8-Gbit aka Single Rank modules. Usually, it is faster to have Dual Rank in our common Desktop chipsets. To get Dual Rank with Single Rank modules you have to use 2 modules per channel, 4x8GB with 8-Gbit dies/chips on the module presents itself as a Dual Rank config. Ergo, 4 x Dual Rank appears as Quad Rank and can be stressfull for your Memory Controller. That's how I understood it, chances are..I am wrong

There is zero difference for everyday computing between 32, 64 and 128GB or even 2TB of RAM. Other than VMware and DCS nothing ever needed more than 32GB on my desktop machines till today.