BitMaster

This should fix it: download the correct file for your OS version here https://www.dll-files.com/qt5core.dll.html copy to c:\windows\syswow64 open command prompt as admin and execute regsvr32 qt5core.dll

AMD's point of view to this: From Guru3d, minutes ago... AMD in a tweet shares that the 12+4 pin ATX 12VHPWR connector will not be used in any of its upcoming Radeon RX 7000 series next-generation graphics cards.

I watch many of his videos and tbh, I may understand 10-20% of that electronical stuff ( VRM's, Caps, SPS's, MosFETs...All OMG's 2 me ) but it's enough to get what he tries to say. The hardest part was really trying to learn better RAM OC from him and that took many many videos and way more than a year to get a better understanding, still, far away from his level. Regarding that stupid connector... I am just waiting for the first fellow Pilot that posts :"Had to eject, flight-computer caught fire"

To be fair it must be said that if you undervolt aka powerlimit the 4090 it consumes less than most high end 3000 series cards while still having more fps. the elephant in the room is not the card itself. It’s the price. If tuned right I have to admit it’s a step towards more efficiency. Just out of the box it’s tuned to max performance and not common sense.

It highly depends on the board's circuits and the CPU's integrated memory controller, lesser a RAM concern itself. I have 2 kits of 4-module B-Die and they run great, IN THE RIGHT BOARD. If you are unlucky, not much will make them stable but reduce MHz, 3000 is a safe value in my experience. For example: My 3600-16-16-165-36 32GB/4x8 kit ran up to ~4000MHz in my 7700k Z270 combo, but it only runs w/o BSOD at 3000MHz with my 8700k Z370 combo, no matter the Volts. If I take 2 modules out of the Z370 they again run like hell, just not all 4 in that particular board. Temps were never an issue. With my 5900X rig I cut RAM corners so to say and hoped to compensate it with luck & skill. I bought 3200-14-14-14-34 and oc'ed them to 3600-14-14-14-34 @ 1.45 ( results in 1.48v in HWinfo etc. ). They can get pretty warm when stressed, around 60ish°C, idle temps are mid 40's°C. Till today they passed all tests I could throw at it, most important, it is stable and does not crash, never did since I own it. To top it and because I was bored last night I downloaded AMD Ryzen Master, hit the Curve Optimizer and let it run for 90min to tune my voltage curves, raised the PPT TDC and EDC to north of 250w and ampere and let it run linpack extreme and prime9 with all AVX etc ON, stable... it boosted to 4.6ish GHZ all core under stress, consumed ~200w, peak was 230w, temps on CPU were in the high 80's for loads that fit in Cache but it passed it. I didnt fear the CPU to crash, more the overclocked RAM when the CPU IMC is stressed by OC and the heat from it but it worked out. Was it skill, no, was it LUCK, yes. Unless you dial in the wrong values it's mostly the parts, they either can do it or not and you only find out if you test it. Imhoi t's more like the board or the IMC is playing foul in your bcase

Well, you can build a budget 5800X3D on a B450 and more RAM kits to choose from. I am not convinced. Performance per Watt & per Dollar they all lack behind the X3D. The big ? is, how much more will AMD's 7000 X3D deliver. My hope is it dominates like the 5800X3D does.

So you are saying that you pull 520w through "TWO" PCIe-cables ? It doesn't really matter if they are dual-headed or single, it remains 2x 8-wire cable. Each cable has a rating of 150w max. You should not use the dual-head config, use 4 cables with 8 wires each, if needed, buy a new PSU. You run that thing way above safe limits. just my 2 cents

Starting to crawl back, a bit late for my taste. Let this ripe, the last word on "what GPU can I actually afford with the future electricity bills in mind.." hasn't been said yet nor have those astronomically high kW/h rates reached all those who will eventually get them and open their eyes, paired with a new Gas bill that will scale likely. With -5k€/year on the energy side you will have to rethink, if you like it or not. There is no room for such idiotism in the near future for most users. A Gaming Rig that will consume ~500w total while .listen...GAMING.. will become a different taste for most in central Europe where energy prices skyrocket. The US might be different in that regard but if it hits Europe hard it will hit & affect every market.

Just checked, heck yes, though mine doesn't crash as yours, it refuses to maximize again. I need to click on the main program icon to make it visible again. Kinda strange Latest 11 Updates & latest Nvidia btw.

Well, it's your money that you safe but also risc.

You should not run pre-builds, dev-editions or such on a PC that you rely on !!! Use Hyper-V, VMware, Virtual Box, just to name a few, install them virtually. Buy some Win10 keys off ebay and use those for your extra needed licenses then, its 5€ per key....and your PC remains stable, let the VM's crash I run 5x Win Desktops just for tinkering in VMware, along many others, Firewall, NAS, Win SRV, Linux SRV, Linux Desktops, MS-DOS and some other freaky OS'. It's fun too, you learn a lot

DRAM overheat can occur when certain criterea meet together. 4 modules + little fan power + a GPU tha dumps a lot of heat + WORST, the GPU infrared heat radiation that you can't fight properly with air alone. Buildzoid has a nice video about that issue. If your RAM or board reports DRAM temps, mine for example does, you can measure the temps at different loads. Mine can get pretty warm if I stress them but they don't fail. As a rule of thumb, don't let them go much over 60°C. Your case is a perfect show-case for others asking RAM questions: Adding RAM is not as easy as many think and should be your 2nd choice only.

Nice, just tried to reconfigure what you specify as "all maxed out"...what it does among other things is add a 3080ti and one of the BIG processors, either 5950X or 7950X and keeps the 750watt SFF-PSU. There is no PSU choice. If that is the case, I wouldn't do a full tilt stress test, it may exceed your PSU's limits !

Your board features DDR4, not DRR3 ! https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/Z170A-GAMING-M3/Specification If you want to play Multiplayer with big maps & missions you will basically have to replace at least motherboard + cpu + ram + gpu, maybe PSU too and 1-2 NVMe drives are cool too unless you have enough SSD drive space already. DCS can outgrow a 500GB SSD if you buy all maps & modules, mind that. I would take a 1TB for DCS/Games and a 2nd drive 500GB or bigger for your OS 10/11. There is no upgrade path with your board, you are stuck with 6th gen Intel and even if 7th gen would work it would make zero sense to do so. If your budget allows, keep this PC as a functional entity, and build yourself a new one for DCS.

It's a symptom of falling empires, the parties get wilder and expenses are of no concern. For me personally, 4090, completely of no interest. I would betray my family if I would do so. Der Krug geht zum Brunnen bis er bricht.

Reviewers like Guru3d are allowed officially to publish their reviews as of now. https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/geforce-rtx-4090-founder-edition-review,1.html

DDR4 64GB was my answer

Sure, all that applies. In the end I think cooling it with a waterblock might be the best solution of them all. Looking at that air-cooler monster, I doubt a card made by Nvidia WITH a waterblock would cost more, I think it's cheaper to produce a waterblock than such a massive aircooler.

Depending on your case, you could opt for an PCIe-v4 riser cable and mount the GPU vertically in the case and avoid the problem at all.

I think ED pretty much knows how much DCS needs Vulkan and Multithreading. There is no denial on that some kind of evolution needs to take place and ED has clearly stated that they follow the path of Vulkan and Multithreading to fix performance issues. How long it takes ? Nobody knows, not even the lead coder could tell you I am afraid. I am no coder myself but an IT guy and looking at the nature of DCS it is near to assume that it is not just complicated but yet predictable but complex, a totally different nature of a beast that every big code gets that has been carried along for many years, the 911 of flight sims, never changed really, only got better. You turn here and bang, you fix it and break two others, together with a transition from DX11 to an OS indep. Vulkan platform, great. I am happy they are at least working on it and not just plain let it run out as it is and say, enoug is enough. But It really matters how you look at it. If you are totally at it, invested a lot of time and money etc..I get it. Just stay tuned, I am sure ED delivers when it's ripe

Thing is, if you buy 2x 16GB now, DDR5-First_Releases, chances are high you won't find a matching pair in a relatively short time when they have moved forward with DDR5 production. 2nd, right now, with 670 and maybe also the B-chipset, at this moment, they do not run with 4 modules across the board. There are ZERO 4-module kits on sale, among other promised features still not available. If you buy 32GB now, you might end up buying a 2nd kit, 2x32GB whenever you realise 32GB dont cut it anymore. You wouldnt be the first one to learn it this hard way tbh.

Looking at those unboxing videos for 4090's...whatever case you get, GET A BIG ONE if this trend keeps going. I had to laugh...

Ah, ok new CPU, new terminology, new things to learn PBO2 is PBO on Ryzen5000 series, should have been clearer. There is no PBO1 and PBO2 switch. Your PBO is PBO..version2 so to speak. You need to know how to read that Auto/Manual/Disabled talk. Auto on my Gigabyte is PBO with CPU limits Enabled is the same but opens other menues where you can dial in higher values ( duration and power limits mostly ). Manual is everything at your disposal ( all above plus some more ) DIsabled..speaks for itself, no PBO at all. The easiest way to check what it actually does is to run HWinfo64 Monitor page while you stress test the CPU with any CPU hard hitting thing ( prime, linpack, etc. ). Your TDP is 105w, same as mine. With PBO on Auto and nothing else tuned hotter mine draws max 143-144watts, never more. Yours should behave similarily. If you dial in higher duration of peaks and allow higher amps for those peaks you can easily hit ~220watt with the same tests, and gain a lot of heat. The gain for gaming is next to nothing, it can easily force the CPU to throttle and YoYo up&down with the MHz more than if not overpushed. I think a constant stream of power is better than a maybe higher one in peaks but with fluctuations. The menues you say you dont see, become available mostly in OTHER tabs. The structure of the Bios is somewhat strange as foremost those CPU settings are spread across half a dozen of pages. My best advice to see how this works is a YT video with a Gigybyte board. I will link it. It's a very good method to squeeze more out of it while also undervolting. It''s very informative for Gigabyte users as he shows you the menue inside out in that matter. If you actually copy what he does is another thing. I did it all, it worked, lost the paper with the cores listed I took note of and then upgraded the bios....all gone. I redid it again etc.. and it's not worth it long story short vs. the power draw and heat. It's teaching a lot but I went with AUTO at the end of the day ( ~1 year testing what's best for me ). I tuned the RAM to 3600 14-14-14-34 at 1.45v. That is the only overclock I run. Tested it thoroughly and I can run VM's at 95-99% RAM usage for hours w/o any glitches or run linpack, aida, prime etc.. and no errors. If you oc the CPU, those will start to happen and verifying it's stable, and I need it stable, is a big thing. What you can do, is cool the CPU as much as possible. That will allow PBO to work at it's best That video is very informativ. I think I watched it at least 3 times, maybe 5tbh..LoL