BitMaster

It's even more complicated than that. If you i.e. use a Retail Lic for VMware it is stuck in the virtual world, at least mine cannot be transferred to "real" hardware. bound machines. I can move them between Hyper-V, VMware and VirtualBox...but not to real HW. I just moved an OEM 10 to a new aftermarket Board and upgraded it to 11, which worked despite I thought "OEM, that may go south!" I needed to tiue the OEM 10 to a MS account to do so, if you forget that step before doing the move you have no chance activating anything.

I live a stone throw away from RAB and I can tell you...there is lots going on. Hercules and Globemasters, Stratotankers...just look flightradar24. Usually I can hear the C-130s when they come in for landing, they routinely fly over my village before lining up with the strip. Tbh, I don't think it will happen yet. As sad as it is.

No, the times of Windows HAL are long gone. Since Windows 7 ( maybe Vista too, not sure ) you can move an install. A clean install is always better if you are able to and also have the time. If it needs to be quick & dirty you can move the install. You can since then also take virtual machines across Intel-AMD barrier, a thing that wouldnt work before with Windows as the VM still sees the architecture underneath. XP would not boot on AMD if it came from an Intel machine. I often move between Intel and AMD have zero issues with VMware and I sometimes carry an install over for certain reasons that void an immediate clean install.

Likely the above. You can move an install around many different boards and even architectures ( Intel vs AMD ) and it will work. I will perform a driver(s) install on first boot, then reboot and done. It is wise to deinstall things the new board does not have before you do the change and it may pay back to place the driver files on the desktop so you have LAN drivers ready if you need that. I have done this many many times and if you do it right there is no drawback. A fresh install has it's hurdles for many, so this approach is indeed a valid one. Make sure you pick the right drive to boot from, in wcs you have to try each one. But before this can happen, make sure as said above that the UEFI mode is set properly. It will not boot if incorrect but this can be easily corrected in Bios. Just went through s similar thing last weekend, HP ProL server refused to accept the new NAS drives....and refused Ubuntu server install....3h later it booted, with Sata at AHCI, SAS off, etc... Just don't give up

doom, I will go OT but as you I can read you already have an AIO for the CPU. For my understanding an observation from watercool infancy till today, the focus of what to cool has changed towards the "G"PU. Back in the days of early watercooling, P4 chips hit 2.4-3.2GHz and were usually fully saturated while gaming, really giving watercooling some sense. Today, when I play ANY game with my 5900X or 8700K, any good AirCooler would do the job, silently too. The wattage needed to run a game has drastically dropped with the drop in lithography getting smaller and smaller and cores more IPC. Quite the opposite happens in the GPU world. Demand for more LOD and resolution seems to have no ending, instead of using the benfits in architecture and lithography for less energy consumption everything is put towards more performance while even pumping up the wattage needs. There is no "silent-DCS" with any modern air cooled GPU, they all need to cool their components. Here is the 2nd thing. Fry a CPU....almost peanuts, 200-600€ covers most scenarios, whereas in the GPU world, anything below 1.000€ or $ is not gonna get you far and for sure not up to the top, for that you rather need 3-5k€. Knowing how fast heavily used 3d cards died on me and friends in the past, cooling a GPU with a waterblock not only makes it much less noisy but also increases the lifespan of your board, directly thinking VRM area and such.... You can and should lower the voltage on your card, tons of videos out there, but ultimately it will remain loud as it MUST cool the parts as much as possible. Cooling them any lesser does directly affect lifespan.

Congrats ! What a relief, isn't it ?

Ah, ok, I never needed to reset the rig when it froze for a ferw seconds, it just "brrrrrrr"ed for 2-5 secs and then went on like normal. Always giving a BRRRRRR sound when it did it. It only did it in Windows OS, any Linux ran and runs flawless on this rig ( so I knew it's something driver/SW related ). If yours freezes and won't recover it is much more severe I guess. Again, do it bit by bit and watch when the error shows up. With luck you can find the trouble maker Don't give up !

Possibly an issue with one of the hardware components and it's drivers if it runs OK in other OS's. What drives are you using and what Power Mode setting to you use ? Freezes usually happen as a result of a bus-lock, something is waiting for some other thing to respond, this can be a HDD drive going into or coming from sleep mode, a stupid LED software flooding the bus, a FAN control software can cause this while it tunes the fans to a different speed. Seen all this with my own or client systems over the recent years and the best way to track it down is to start new and go SLOW. It may not be there after a FRESH install of 11 --WITHOUT INTERNET-- by all means, if you run 11Pro you dont need that and must leave it off to forbid Auto-Driver installs within windows and even some boards ( my Gigabyte can do this too if I allow it in Bios ). This is not good if you want to install each one to see WHEN the error comes with it. My last error was with this new board, when it was new it had freezes in 10 and 11 ( thought only 11, but found out later 10 too ). No game, no video, even it indle...FREEZES..it drove me nuts cause it did it well until something was changed. So I went all over and eventually found that after installing a Gigabyte Board tool it startet to happen, deinstall that and all was fine. Meanwhile the software is fixed, installed and no freezes anymore, but for almost 2 weeks it rendered the all new shiny beast USELESS. Easy fix ONCE you know what causes the freeze. My other, 8700k on an Asus boad, had freezes for many years and it forced my to use an older Intel Rapid Storage driver to avoid the freezes or disable my 2x 2TB HDD. Those 2 did not like each other anymore after a certain Bios and Intel Management Chip upgrade. Anyway, it took me many weeks to find the reason for those sporadic feezes, 2-5 sec, that happend regardless of load or work. I stumbled across the hint after countless Google searches and reverted the Intel driver to an older one, Bingo ! no more freezes. Later on I found out it only happens with those 2 older HDD's on Sata. If I turned those OFF in Bios any Intel driver worked, aha, its not the driver and board, it's the specific Combo I have, even less likely to find help in google. After that Intel provided a driver that allowed the drives, they now work with the newest drivers w/o any issues but I have them off anyway, too loud. Only let them spin for backups and shut them off in Bios after that. I have seen similar issues with USB attached devices, USB hubs etc.. To exclude that, directly connect only Mouse & Keyboard to the board directly. USB20 preferred ( the black ones ).

I really hope you are right. Yeah, I will lean back and watch this disaster happen. Any average card using 4-500w will cause lots of issues across the average Joe's PC. 500-800w will cause dramatic issues if you don't adjust. PSU's will fail and may fry cards & boards like KFC fries chicken... strange memory errors due to intense infrared radiation heating up the modules... I mean... yes, you can do that, but you will need to think twice and only get premium PSU's, LARGE DIY loops, many fans....it just adds up down the list. My PC could accept such a card but my cooling is of the rather large DIY side and I run a 1200w PSU (edit*: it would max out my system cooling capacity and likely my PSU too, Look for 1500w PSU and 2x MoRa3-420 if you go 4090 LoL )...most don't. Tbh, I think my days gaming will come to an end soon if Nvida and alikes don't reconsider their strategy.

ErP is one of those "mysterious" functions many don't know what it actually does to your daily computing habits. Usually it is disabled on Asus/MSI/GB/ASR boards but enabled on Dell/HP/Lenovo etc. It allows deeper sleep, faster and will also interfere with Mouse/Keyboard settings as a wake-up device... Make sure it's OFF if you have C-State or PowerSettings issues. But tbh, actually, ErP is a good thing, just maybe not for a DIY Über-PC built for DCS or gaming in general.

does Nvidia think are we willing to pay just for electricity ? Aside all other obstacles that come with such a high power / heat dump card, does Nvidia know what their customers pay for electricity ? With the current war(s) going on energy prices are going nowhere but up and we already pay north of 30 €cent per kWh, which is 3x times more than the US pays afaik. I am more and more convinced this thing called PC-Gaming is becoming a thing of the past for many not willing to give an arm and a leg for GPU's and energy costs. https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/geforce-rtx-4090-would-consume-up-to-750wit-would-arrive-in-september,4.html

Oh heck..it's 2022 Tempus fugit edit: IIRC this is not the case anymore. It's been a while since I flew it but "iirc" I was able to switch between all 3 external tanks. I really like to fly her fully loaded, LoL. Take off on MAIN tanke, then empty the one behind you first, then do the wing tanks alternating to even out mass. I think that worked but it's a while ago. Sure you had the pumps all on and gas in them ?

I didn't need another coffee after this ! BANG awesome work !

Gskill RipJaw 3200-14-14-14-34 overclocked to 3600-14-14-14-34 w/o any issues on sysem in sig. I would get the 3200/14 and oc it to the above values...dial in 1.45v and you are likely set. Cost was 388€ for 64GB. The 64GB kit with those values as stock ( also 1.45v stock ) cost WAY more and likely will not overclock further, given the 1.45v. DDR5....maybe 2023...

Sorry to say: Yes, no wonder tbh. I ran a 8700k myself @5G with a 1080ti and it just managed to saturate the GPU to 98-100% all the time. You won't gain any major fps but smoothen gameplay by throwing in a bigger CPU. To see more fps, like Harlikwin did, you need a GPU that is not already at ~100% load before you change the CPU. People need to measure/graph their system before they buy parts just to find out it does not bring the desired effect. When I switched to a 5900X and double the RAM and 3x NVMe etc.. I did not expect to see 1 more frame but maybe help the bottom end a bit and that turned out to be a realistic assumption without dropping jaws 2k€ later.

As a side note, when you watch your GPU's day-in-day-out wattage usage on Desktop it may really pay to move away from High Performance Mode as the "default" setting. In my case, 1080ti, it's 67w vs. 15w as minimum permanent power draw. Heck, that's more than my whole MBP uses when watching a YT video LoL. For a 24/7 rig that is over 400kWh per anno. In Germany, that buys you a 1TB 980Pro over 1 year !

CPU's nowadays have a table that lists the best core, lowest voltage for a given speed. The scheduler will always try to use that core. Imho, trying to force a thread to a specific core might have worked on 8700k, 9900k etc.. but I fear with Ryzen's and 12thgen Intel we better leave ProcessLasso aside for the said reasons, overheating, Caching, etc.. you gain 5% here and loose 20% over there as a result.

I successfully run a 4 module kit as a 4x2 Rank setup and it only got faster when tested under full load when overclocked. If there was a slowdown at least one of the tests should have stated that but none did. The more I pushed the RAM the more performance it delivers. XMP is 3200 14-14-14-34-1T ; G.Skill F4-3200C14-16GVK 64GB, 4x16 module, 2R. I can just UP the Volts to 1.45v and crank the speed to 3600MHz while keeping the nice CL values. I can also do 3600-16-16-16-36-1T @ 1.40v but latency drops anyother 4-5ns below 60ns if I stick with 1.45v and CL14-14... and 3600MHz at CL16 vs CL14. There is a difference but very small, mostly latency drops as said above and throughput stays above 53GB/sec for r/w/c which is slightly higher than the CL16 values. Also, there is no way you can go above 64GB ( 128GB is supported !!! ) if you dont want to break the 4-Rank limit It is supported and does work and I did not see a critical performance hit when I tested the RAM. Defacto, till today, not a single BSOD since Oktober, no matter how I push the RAM. I often use up 98% RAM in VMware for hours...not a single glitch yet, rock solid and FAST.

That really makes it somewhat impossible to give fast, precise & easy to digest answers for anything Taskmanager/CPU related. Add in the scheduler dealing different architectures with different algorithm, HP- and HE-Cores, Boost Clocks and what not else... it is very complex.

Once you have it all together, make a cross-check as to what SVSMOKEY said and ( by breaking all our rules to DIY and such... ) compare it to a similar PreBuild system, as close as possible with Apples to Apples. With the current GPU pricing going steeply UP again it may really make sense. If you have a big enough difference in pricing you can exchange any part later on and still have saved some money. Tho there are pitfalls in PreBuilds, usually mid-tier motherboard and PSU, RAM latency, etc.. but with current pricing I have to 2nd svsmokey, they are all nuts and why not at least check if it makes sense. Buy fast, GPU are going up in price again ...https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/nvidia-has-officially-raised-the-prices-of-its-rtx-30-series-gpus-in-europe.html ..not only in Europe btw.

Maybe your Ping to those servers is suboptimal or those servers themselves are just weak and cause it on their end. The 16GB elephant still stands in the room.

If the drive is found by the Bios you have an option to boot from it as default. If the drive does not show up directly among the drive(s) you can choose from you will for most Bios' have to change order of the HDD/SDD in a Submenu right in the Boot Settings Tab. There, you should see all bootable drives listed per Boot-Entry and you have to set yours to the top of one of the entries and then choose that entry as the default boot drive. Since CSM and SafeBoot change the way the PC boots, presents disks to the screen and as boot option it is not as trivial as it was in the past. To boot any non-signed/insecure device you have to have CSM enabled, otherwise it wont even show up. With USB Tools that is a common issue as you have to boot under CSM to have all tools available to boot into ( Linux tools and older Windows ).

You are aware of CSM and SafeBoot ? I bet if you work those two paramters your drive(s) will show up again. If CSM is disabled and SafeBoot enabled you will likely not see all drive options to boot from. Kinda bites the Win11 idea.

He's on Cloud #7 still smiling....give him some time..LoL