BitMaster

Tho I can understand your point, it stands heavily between you and a good DCS rig. See, I fix PC's and Servers for a living and have had plenty encounters with different people's attitude towards computing and what they themselves can, should and somehow must bring in to make this a fruitful thing. You may not need to build your rig yourself but you should take some time and convince yourself to dig into the "Gaming PC World". After some time, give yourself 1-2 years, you will have far more understanding how and why things work and if not, you will likely understand the help from others better if you can foot on some own experience and knowledge. Saying what you said actually turns some people down that wanna help you, as you already say "I don't wanna learn this". ..and yes, the 8k Goggles are for GPU's that dont exist yet and I doubt a 4xxx Series Nvidia will have enough power, despite the 480+Watts it draws. just my 2 cents

Resist the itch

That's why I try to buy from Amazon directly if possible and not via unknown sellers. When I bought my board, it could have gotten it 45€ cheaper....NO...I gladly paid the extra cash to have it directly sold and sent from Amazon, just in case I need to RMA or such.

Unless you have a pool full of Dollar notes I would not buy a complete new system, the gains as said above are not worth it. If you really need more power, upgrade the GPU and throw in a 5000 series Ryzen and sell your old parts.

Right on the spot ! If you only play FPS games with Mouse and Keyboard it's fairly simple once your Game is well supported. DCS and many other Simulators for Flight and Racing have multiple devices attached to the PC that we all demand to work. Not speaking of Sound and LAN/WLAN chip issues that can make your life even harder in the Linux world, even if you do Linux for a very long time. Tbh, I havent even checked if TiR worked, I have no idea. I know the Hotas worked. Yes, I play around with it but won't switch yet with DCS. But I would if it worked as intended.

It does indeed pay to change the GPU PowerPlan on the fly as needed and not look at it as a one time set&forget thing. You can do that, I did it too for years and always asked myself why in the world my PC needs over 165w in idle on the desktop. OK...the Pump and myriad of fans take their toll but their was a large unkown part I never figured out what consumed the rest in idle. Well, actually it's pretty easy and I tell this everybody while not doing it myself, TRACK IT DOWN with HWinfo. When you set it to HighPerformance Mode and open HWinfo you should check your GPU wattage in idle, then watch a YT or light work...then switch the GPU to Balanced Mode and watch again... on my 1080ti its around 50w difference, that's MORE than my 5900X needs for daily desktop usage. MSI Afterburner has nice TaskBar icons that also show GPU wattage on Desktop, it's 15w now...used to be 67w 24/7/365 That does pay back. In game, if I forget to switch, it depends, DCS doesnt like it and I suffer severe fps issues, other games mostly dont care.

Bizarro, that ain't easy. your budget is very tight for a DCS rig, even w/o GPU. I just built a PC for my neighbour 2 weeks ago with a 500€ budget, excluding tower and OS. I managed to build a Gigabyte mITX, AMD Ryzen 5600-G,Gskill 16GB 3200, 500GB NVMe SSD Samsung 970 EvoPlus and a 500w Seasonic Gold spec PSU. She only does Excel and some webbrowsing and all components are AAA brands You have 200€ more, which you must splitt between CPU, RAM and PSU as either one is too weak for DCS. You can add a SSD/NVMe anytime later on w/o sacrificing on initial parts that you cannot change afterwards but replace in total ( CPU, Board, PSU and also RAM should be bought in a matching Pack. Either a 5600X or Intel 12600K or maybe even lower 12400F, a modest board, 32GB 3200MHz, a PSU that will hold your new 4000series GPU ( that will not work with that budget !!! ). A 1000w PSU which most consider "sufficient" for the coming draws usually exceed 200€, tbh I wouldnt buy a cheaper one considering the damage it can do if it blows up. You might want to couple your final PSU purchase with the GPU. For now I would pick a reasonable 750w PSU that can power your 1070 and any CPU in that range I put out. Most will favour the Intel over the AMD right now. I`d say the price makes the win as you will likely never own a GPU during the lifetime of that yet to buy CPU that could outrun the CPU. You would need a top end card and also play then still on low res like FHD, most then play 1440p or 4K or even VR. You can still get by with a B450 Chipset, AMD Ryzen 5600X, 32GB Gskill 3200-CL16 or better, 1TB Samsung NVMe 970 EvoPlus, 750-850w PSU ( you can skip the SSD and add that later and use the 90-100€ to beef up the CPU or Board. Prices also depend highly on where in the world you live.

I guess this is rather a USB problem than a specific TiR issue. You have to delete all "old" USB devices in Device Manager in most cases to remedy the issue. USBDEVIEW is a great tool to list "invisible & old" USB devices and clear them out. Nirsoft's Website: https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html Hope my assumption is somewhat correct, report back

That's good news, last time I tried it it was not-so-smooth. Think I need to shrink my C drive again to have enough space on my Mint. What actually sucks is that the Mainboard I have has limited sound functionality. Its a real PITA to route the sound to the correct jack. Curious to see if I can route DCS through the speakers and Comms to my headset. I bet it won't work out of the box due to this ESS Chip my board has in addition to the Realtek Audio Codec

Look at it this way: I opened DCS and started the most simple Apache Free Flight "Cold Start" on Caucasus...BANG 30GB used right away. Your system may use far less if you have less total RAM. With 64GB installed it uses the above 30GB on my end right away, without any system turned on - 100% cold AC, I would not even consider 32GB for a new system anymore, think "sixtyfour"

Update servers busy....LoL can't get in

It depends... you could gain up to 50ish % bandwidth. It depends on your default clock and where to XMP will take you. It's hard to measure in FPS, it likely runs smoother and may gain 2-5 fps. Try it out

Well, my Magic Glass says you have a problem. To really help you we need DETAILS. System specs, DCS settings, etc..

Such things suck ! We don't have Newegg over here but I would go crazy if that happened to me. Usually, when I order things of value at my usual place mindfactory.de I pay 5€ on top for Gold Service in case of RMA etc.. If the service sucks, avoid that place. Hope you either get the drive or your money back

Tbh, before you focus on DCS and Nvidia etc...it is still unclear if his system collapses under load or not. I would run a few loops of realbench, that taxes CPU and GPU and watch temps. If it can do that for 30min it should run any game load. Then, I would focus on settings in DCS and Nvidia, maybe best to reset both.

Oh yeah, this sh%t hasn't hit the fan yet, prepare for the worst. I don't expect availability and pricing to not react to the crisis. This will turn many markets upside down and left <--> right. We will see. Anyway, I gladly skip any GPU for peace

The way I do it is recall the license via the MS control page that opens when you click "troubleshoot" the activation with "I have recently changed my hardware". Among the devices listed I pick the one I want to use the license from and choose " I do not use this HW anymore ( or similar, it's german on my end ). When moving between my AMD and Intel machine the CPU changes and I doubt MS sees this as "1" machine. Nonetheless, I can move them freely between those 2 rigs. I could reactivate all my Win10 when I shortly used Hyper-V but not the 2016 SRV, it also allowed me to re-reactivate them on VMware again once I found out that it wont take my 2016 into the Hyper-V world. Anyway, it's still a hairy process and sometimes it just won't allow you to activate a machine for no obvious reasons.

The prices are slowly coming down as crypto lacks quick profit. Now we only need to tell AMD and Nvidia to return to normal MRSP's again, that got out of control along with the mining crazyness.

It's even more complicated than that. If you i.e. use a Retail Lic for VMware it is stuck in the virtual world, at least mine cannot be transferred to "real" hardware. bound machines. I can move them between Hyper-V, VMware and VirtualBox...but not to real HW. I just moved an OEM 10 to a new aftermarket Board and upgraded it to 11, which worked despite I thought "OEM, that may go south!" I needed to tiue the OEM 10 to a MS account to do so, if you forget that step before doing the move you have no chance activating anything.

I live a stone throw away from RAB and I can tell you...there is lots going on. Hercules and Globemasters, Stratotankers...just look flightradar24. Usually I can hear the C-130s when they come in for landing, they routinely fly over my village before lining up with the strip. Tbh, I don't think it will happen yet. As sad as it is.

No, the times of Windows HAL are long gone. Since Windows 7 ( maybe Vista too, not sure ) you can move an install. A clean install is always better if you are able to and also have the time. If it needs to be quick & dirty you can move the install. You can since then also take virtual machines across Intel-AMD barrier, a thing that wouldnt work before with Windows as the VM still sees the architecture underneath. XP would not boot on AMD if it came from an Intel machine. I often move between Intel and AMD have zero issues with VMware and I sometimes carry an install over for certain reasons that void an immediate clean install.

Likely the above. You can move an install around many different boards and even architectures ( Intel vs AMD ) and it will work. I will perform a driver(s) install on first boot, then reboot and done. It is wise to deinstall things the new board does not have before you do the change and it may pay back to place the driver files on the desktop so you have LAN drivers ready if you need that. I have done this many many times and if you do it right there is no drawback. A fresh install has it's hurdles for many, so this approach is indeed a valid one. Make sure you pick the right drive to boot from, in wcs you have to try each one. But before this can happen, make sure as said above that the UEFI mode is set properly. It will not boot if incorrect but this can be easily corrected in Bios. Just went through s similar thing last weekend, HP ProL server refused to accept the new NAS drives....and refused Ubuntu server install....3h later it booted, with Sata at AHCI, SAS off, etc... Just don't give up

doom, I will go OT but as you I can read you already have an AIO for the CPU. For my understanding an observation from watercool infancy till today, the focus of what to cool has changed towards the "G"PU. Back in the days of early watercooling, P4 chips hit 2.4-3.2GHz and were usually fully saturated while gaming, really giving watercooling some sense. Today, when I play ANY game with my 5900X or 8700K, any good AirCooler would do the job, silently too. The wattage needed to run a game has drastically dropped with the drop in lithography getting smaller and smaller and cores more IPC. Quite the opposite happens in the GPU world. Demand for more LOD and resolution seems to have no ending, instead of using the benfits in architecture and lithography for less energy consumption everything is put towards more performance while even pumping up the wattage needs. There is no "silent-DCS" with any modern air cooled GPU, they all need to cool their components. Here is the 2nd thing. Fry a CPU....almost peanuts, 200-600€ covers most scenarios, whereas in the GPU world, anything below 1.000€ or $ is not gonna get you far and for sure not up to the top, for that you rather need 3-5k€. Knowing how fast heavily used 3d cards died on me and friends in the past, cooling a GPU with a waterblock not only makes it much less noisy but also increases the lifespan of your board, directly thinking VRM area and such.... You can and should lower the voltage on your card, tons of videos out there, but ultimately it will remain loud as it MUST cool the parts as much as possible. Cooling them any lesser does directly affect lifespan.

Congrats ! What a relief, isn't it ?

Ah, ok, I never needed to reset the rig when it froze for a ferw seconds, it just "brrrrrrr"ed for 2-5 secs and then went on like normal. Always giving a BRRRRRR sound when it did it. It only did it in Windows OS, any Linux ran and runs flawless on this rig ( so I knew it's something driver/SW related ). If yours freezes and won't recover it is much more severe I guess. Again, do it bit by bit and watch when the error shows up. With luck you can find the trouble maker Don't give up !