BitMaster

There is no hard coded stop sign for a gaming laptop but there is TDP for CPU and GPU, a FPS/Watt relation and a cooling solution, those corner stones define your experience. It has a reason why Desktop parts burn hundreds of Watts and therefor have monster coolers, 600-1000w PSU's etc.. A Laptop can only do as much as it's cooling allows, I really hope you don't get disappointed. Once it is heat loaded, it literally cooks the PCB.. I have had many laptops over the last 20 years and 1 thing I will not do with them anymore is gaming. my 2 cents

Sometimes it's a firmware thing. Does he run a recent Bios and matching Chipset driver ? I would check that is the case. 50° on Desktop, maybe a bit too high for idle, mine is below 40° usually, right now 37°C while typing on a mildly warm day, my GPU idles at 26°C ( same loop ). Playing games is anywhere 50-60°C. The hottest it gets is brutal AVX priming which puts it into high 80's ( PBO2 + a few settings tuned )

I would NOT use a not Sine-Wave based device on your PC, hands down. My pal, he's a full-blooded electronics guy where I take PCB's that need repair. He explained it to me with lots of technical terms that I cannot reproduce, but bottom line was, the 90° ON-OFF-ON-OFF will cause ( parts ) of your VRM to be stressed beyond good&bad because ( I try to get this right ) the parts in question have to buffer the current when the 90° is at 0 but the Sine Wave wouldn't be. There is more to it, but I am the wrong guy to explain. I trust my guy, if he says "DON'T do that if you have expensive devices, 3080!! etc.... If you have a 350€ 2nd Hand PC in a place where there are outages 5x a day, heck, yes, it's a bigger issue. But for a high end & pricey, rig, dont use Saw-Tooth current.

I tried to find that video again but couldn't. Afair he fixed someone elses PC.... went through 1 month worth of history in YT and can't seem to find it. A search in Google will explain the problem and provide a link to the Nvidia tool to flash the firmware. DP in general has it's things you need to know or you can have serious issues down to fried motherboards and GPU's by using the wrong cable ( Pin20 issue ). quick google search, 1st hit in english: https://www.cablechick.com.au/blog/the-displayport-pin-20-issue-explained/ In addition, if you have such a cable, it may cause EXACTLY what you described. If your Monitor works if you switch it on "AFTER!!!" the Bios/UEFI loaded it is 99% a cable issue and you betetr get the right one before it wrecks havoc on your GPU. It destroyed a customers mobo through the iGPU DP outlet ( Dell Optiplex that was)

Realtek, Promise, VIA and a few others belong to things I usually try or tried to avoid in the past. Realtek LAN adapters, ehhh, NO..had my fair share of issues with those in Linux routers and crappy stability back in the days when Gbit emerged. But tbh, Intel also has NIC's with serious issues, like the famous i225 Adapter in various versions. I am really happy my own 225 doesnt make any trouble "yet". The thing is, with Realtek Audio, you hardly ever have any options. The board I am using had serious issues with Sound output steering in Linux, god that drove me nuts, with Ubuntu 22.04's kernel it seems to be fixed. One would think Audio is a long solved thing, well....it ain't from time to time.

There are issues with DP and 3xxx cards iirc, saw a YT video a week ago relating to this and..let me dig in my brain...I think it was Jay's 2 Cents, who ran into the same error as you describe if I get this right. What he needed was a Firmware Update for the GPU-PCB, Nvidia has the tools on their website. But please, before you flash ANYTHING, make sure you suffer this error.

Top job ! Now work yourself up the ladder to see up to which RLT driver you can upgrade before the error presents itself. Used to suffer from a similar bug with Intel IRST drivers, took them 2 years to fix and thus I was using an outdated driver for that time. The "other" workaround was a 3rd party Soundcard.

I would not buy any card without testing how much headroom, IF AT ALL, your 4770 CPU has. If your CPU is already fully loaded on that 1 core it does make little sense to get a bigger GPU for "MORE FPS", it would be much easier if you said," I want a higher resolution and some more detail ( those that don't tax the CPU too much ). Do you get the idea behind this ? Install MSI Afterburner and set up it's OSD to show EACH CPU Core and GPU, as well as RAM and maybe more if you like. Look for the one Core that is under heavy load, if that core is 90+% most of the time, there are no more serious FPS to gain with any better GPU. With DCS, it heavily depends what mission you fly, consider this. Check your metrics and report back,

Sorry to say, but that bug is interesting, so to speak. Have you tried a clean boot-reboot with only KB plugged in, nothing else, not even HDMI or DP. Boot it up and then hit the power button once to tell the MB to shut down the OS properly. Mind you, some Bios like my Gigabyte have the PW-Button on "Instant-OFF" as default, you better check that if you have a Gigabyte board. Curios to see if it can be circumvented with minimalistic setup. Even HDD's can cause this if their firmware is not really up-2-date. If you can, disable everything but the OS drive and KB. If the firmware of any device causes this, it is likely any other OS suffers the same. Have you tried a Linux ( 2nd drive, Bootstick, DVD etc.. ). Somehow you got to corner that thing in to know which device causes this.

Totally forgot about that issue. When you dismount the cooler, maybe you can lift it straight up and thus check the mating. If the mating is really bad you need to find a solution.

I just had some business with my electronics Guru today, a UPS at a customer place went dead. He said, when I asked him about Sine Wave vs. 90° saw-tooth current...."unless you want to risc every VRM and exchange PSU every now and then..." Whatever you buy, get a sine-wave device, at APC those are called "Smart-UPS" Errata: sure, the VA is not the same as Wattage with UPS, Skatezilla's number are more realistic.

What Bossco82 said, you have to standardize your test to draw conclusions.

I am deeply saddened to hear this. we used to write PM‘s from time to time but I got no answer to my last attempts. Fare well my friend Lars

Excellent idea ! For a 650w PSU you should get a 650VA UPS. 1VA = 1Watt. If you have decent hardware and a pricey GPU I advice you to look for a "Sinus-Wave" based device. The cheap ones have a 90° rectangle wave form and that may be good enough for your waterpump or driller or any e-motor to run but it will stress your PC components a LOT over time. Your whole VRM gets hotter and less efficient, will fail sooner etc.. .A SInus Wave based device is the best choice for sensitive equipment, the downside is less efficiency of the UPS itself and it costs more. APC is my 1st choice, never used or solkd another one tbh, I would get a Smart-UPS with 650-1000VA. You may find one refurbished with warranty and new batteries, that can save you quite some money. Where I buy mine, battery-direct.de, they offer used and new ones. Expect to replace the batts every 3-5 years. What kills them mostly is HEAT.

You should always have a little more RAM than you will ever need. It's been like that since forever

Don't get me wrong sew333, but tbh, in this case I always recommend DELL 4or5-Year NBD Premium Plus Support. They cover all of those things that may drive a noob nuts and don't know whom to ask and trust, I come across this from time to time among my customers. Manifest a relation of trust with one of the Top Dogs selling computers for a premium but also deliver premium service. They will investigate and repair if needed. I am aware that is 500-1000€ on top of it all, but that is how valuable such expertise is and if you don't trust our words, those guys at Dell or HP are professionals and do anything else but HelpDesk and fix Alienware computers, Falcon NW, etc any of the top names. Going around in circles in Forums is definitely not the way for someone who is uncertain or incapable of investigating issues sufficiently with Google and common sense and a little understanding of the matter. Consider an OEM that has Premium Support via Phone and Remote Management capabilities or buy at a Boutique around your corner where you can physically take your PC and say "I have a problem with this PC, Sir". The thing is, you gotta trust someone at the end of the day.

AMD here, no issues. Installed that update on 20+ PC's and likely also servers and no issues. do a "sfc /scannow" and if that reports errors use DISM to repair them "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth" --to see if there are issues "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth" --checks if those issues can be fixed "dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth" --this finally repairs issues with your dataset. After that I would do a "sfc /scannow" again and see if it says "All good". had that last week after a powerloss, ehhhh 4 reboots with errors and the above fixed it. ***You must launch Command Prompt as Administrator*** to fix it.

Not again...

I wouldnt say it vastly diminishes beyond 3200 per se. There are many reviews that show how fps can go up&down with MHz and Latency and the bottom line in 90% of all reviews past few years, DDR4-3600MHz CL16. Also, rather 64GB 3200CL16 than 32GB 3600CL14 for current DCS. I

+1 for 64GB adding another 32GB later on could be tricky, I'd go 64GB from day 1 on.

It pays to check the gear you are using from time to time. Be it Oil Level or XMP settings...

It actually matters what hardware you are using since the error is very likely not caused by your stick but a faulty TPM implementation. I would certainly update the Bios if there is a newer one and update to the latest chipset drivers. Many boards, even older ones, got multiple Bios updates since the release of Win11 to make them ready for Win11's requirements. One other solution to try is to actually buy the TPM2 module for your board and see if that works better than the fTPM embedded in your CPU. You can find info about the specific module needed in your motherboard manual.

Well, I could argue here as I work in scenarios where you do have a difference between Sata-SSD, NVMe3 and 4 but for most users that is not really important as they don't backup/restore/snapshot 50-500GB workloads, that's when you can see a difference, also between Evo and Pro Samsung drives for example. The difference is there and I sometimes ask myself why all those magazines and websites don't incorporate such scenarios to show examples where it can safe you time. Agreed, for gaming it is not that important. The reason why many still splitt OS from any other workload are dependencies. If you really screw it up you can format/recover/reinstall whatever with your C-drive and nothing happens to your actual data sets. It's not bad idea to move the Private Folders on another drive as well but that is another thing. Also Backups, if you keep heavy Games on other drive(s) you can backup your OS drive a lot faster and it's easier to handle than if you have Win11, DCS,1TB-Steam,+Office,Firefox..etc...all on 1x 2TB drive "C". If you want to back that up it's always an hourlong task. With a 50GB OS install it's a quick thing and less demanding in every aspect. With Win10 and 11, you hardly ever know exactly what it's doing under the hood, what it is planning to do in the next 5 minutes, when is the next Antivirus Fullscan, when does it search for updates again, when does Adobe, Mozilla, Google,XYZ..scan for their updates..oh..there is a HDD that needs defrag and a SSD that needs it's monthly trimming, lots of stuff that goes on underneath that you have virtually no real control over. Sure, with many cores and SSD in general that impact has gotten less and less but if you happen to have enough drives and ressources, I would always splitt OS and APPs. I have my Games, Virtual Machines and Movies/Pics all on dedicated drives and if Win11 has a bad day I switch to another boot drive and run Linux, as I do right now.

I like Dell Optiplex, Precision and their servers but I would never consider a Pre-Build Gaming Desktop from Dell or HP. For that much money, you can get a better one built in any town, anywhere, anytime. As said above, the OEM restrictions void the whole idea of being "upgradable" and "tuneable".

Well, I tried Liberation yesterday and ended up with 48 of 64GB in use. ...and I was only watching in F2-F10, not even flying myself anything. Take those 64 and make 96 or 128GB out of it if you want to run Liberation at it's max on the same rig you also play at. With 64GB you will end up swapping heavily with the right mission *I can see us crying for 128GB before the year is over...LoL