BitMaster

Hey, there is something to it and I dont want to scare you but there is more than 1 version of this particular Gigabyte Aorus X570 Master around. There is Vers 1; 1.1 afaik and there is Version "2". Only the "2" Version is said to be error free and it was THE reason why I run the X570S and not the X570 without the S as I didnt want another problem board. - Some say that the board will never kick into PCIe Gen4 mode ( may need to Goggle if that is still the case ) - Some report USB bugs - General Issues with RAM ( new layout on Vers2 has a different RAM-VRM layout, visible at first sight ) Others say it's a rock solid board, no complains and it is sold many many times with good reviews. If, then I would really only buy Version 2 of that board, or get the X570S like I did. Sorry to crash the dream P.S. The X570S I run is the best "new rig" experience I personally had in over a decade. Very reliable and solid board, not a single glitch since October.

In my understanding it's a mix of them all, load-decompress-process. There's some I/O on the disc and memory and afaik it needs to be decompressed as well but I might be wrong. Throw in a NVMe and check yourself but I doubt it will make a noticable difference if you say "1-3 seconds". The difference I could imagine is maybe 0.1-0.5sec difference between an average Sata SSD and the fastest NVMe you can get.

With a normal Bios you are always able to configure what the PC does AFTER a power outage: 1. Power ON 2. Stay OFF 3. Return to previous state ( state that it was in before the outage, either ON or OFF ) When you cycle the rocker I/O switch it will actually fall under the same rule listed above, there should be no difference. That leads me to the assumption that you encountered a hardware failure state ( not broken hardware ! ) that abruptly lead to an emergency system shut down. That can happen and the system will usually stay OFF after this sudden shutdown. There are also usually no log entries anywhere because Windows OS got killed without any warning. It can have many reasons, a rare Bitflip or a more common memory corruption, firmware error states due to various reasons, many many possible reasons. If it only happened once and never again since, stay calm and don't mess up a system that is not broken. Such things do happen to every computer. Run some stress tests with common sense, let it ON for 48-96h at least to see if it can handle 5 days without a reboot ( it should easily ). If it does all that there is nothing to worry about.

Spot on

I doubt the PSU was the reason the PC shut off. As others said, monitor your temps across all chips, load test the system and see what happens. The PSU has enough wattage to run your rig at full load for many many hours...unless it's faulty.

As you said, PSU could use +100w and a Platinum label. I would also consider purchasing 64GB right away. 3200-3600. Skip the RGB "Trident bling" and get the non-RGB 64GB kit Gskill RipJaw 3200-14-14-14-34@1.35v instead. They run at 3600 with 1.4v without any trouble.

yep, that GPU wont cut it, neither in 4K nor VR. 500GB will also likely be not enough. My DCS is ~324GB alone and I dont even own all modules. So 500GB formatted to NTFS +Win10/11 + DCS = already near maxed out. Get minimum a 250GB for the OS and a 500GB for DCS, or bigger. I would preferably pick NVMe and skip the cables and such hassle of 2.5" drives PSU...since you definitely need a bigger GPU to get the experience you want you could&should reconsider the PSU. I would rather get 850w and maybe Platinum rated.

I think Svsmokey ment that 11th gen is even beaten by its predecessor 10th gen in many ways and thus 12th gen is a good choice and don't even consider 11th gen at all, rather look at the AMD side. I would, definitely go 64GB DDR4 with AlderLake as well if I had to build one. Rather put the money in the best GPU you can get and a solid overall PC than paying a fortune for RAM that has little to no benefit in gaming.

I have a ded. server installed on 1 of my VM 11's. It does run well but you need to consider that you need extra RAM, Cores and best a ded. SSD as well. The LAN card would be virtual and virtually lowest Ping there is :). It's also possible to run it on Linux as a VM, tho you can't skip the MS License that way.

Here's hope : https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/asus-is-developing-a-ddr4-to-ddr5-ram-converter-adapter.html LoL

If it wasn't for the GPU I'd reconsider my DIY loop now that I run my old 8700k with a Noctua DH15 and it is really quiet in everyday use. Imho, the loudest part while gaming is the GPU, so a DIY loop really makes sense once you include the GPU and max out the rad space, so it can run cool & quiet under gaming load for hours. For everything else I consider Air over AIO.

My suggestion is, no matter of NVMe or Sata SSD, get 1 for the OS and 1 for DCS/Games/Apps and for sure 32GB. You can also add another SSD drive any time later on. I would start with an NVMe 1TB and maybe add another if the budget allows but forget the HDD, that's for NAS or ext. USB storage. If you intend to do VR or heavy MP or both, 64GB is not a bad idea either. It has been said that once Vulkan ( whenever that is is another topic ) arrives it will make use of 32+GB. Also, some heavy MP missions scratch the 32GB already, so if you are into heavy MP etc., consider 64GB and maybe add the 2nd drive later on. It's easier to add a drive than RAM. Decide yourself if you think 64 are for you.

Horror stories about exploding PSUs ? Just google it up, it's no secret. Aiming at a constant 80% load..... please do your homework before you give false and dangerous advice.

some1, I am sorry to say but you are far from hardware reality here. If you intend to run a System at 400-450w for a long time, often, then you would never ever buy a 550w "Gold" PSU. Whoever does this doesnt know what he is doing or the guys who sell that don't know what they are doing. The quality of the DC current delivered is FAR from ideal at 80% load on Gold rated PSU's. There is a lot more to it than just raw wattage. You should read up some reviews from HardOCP about PSUs. It's eye opening how quick some fail, some catastrophically. SIlentSierra, you won't regret selling it for a better device. The trend is still going UPWARDS in wattage, both for CPU and GPU on desktop parts. Rather buy 100w more than less.

Ehhhh, wrong way round pal ! The 500w it draws from the socket is what goes INTO your PSU. Take that x 0.93 and you get what is leaving the PSU towards the board, the other 7% end up as heat in your PSU. So the 500w is the real deal, that's the load that the PSU has to deal with in order to get the said 93% left to the board. Once you have repaired a dozen of those "it made a loud noise, smoke and shut off..." you tend to get cautious with PSUs, marketing specs and 1000w for 99€ offers. Your GPU will almost always draw full tilt power while you game, if it doesnt then something is wrong elsewhere or you play at low LOD and 1080p with capped fps etc..

If you somehow find yourself in the need to run some stress tests to find an error you will be happy if the 650w holds what it says. I can, if need to be, push this system with a 1080ti north of 600w under full load. You dont want to do this with a 650w Gold PSU if you paid big bucks for GPU and CPU/Mobo as if it fries, chances are it fries it all. Sure, everyday computing is way below that and even gaming with full power on the GPU is +/- 375w with this 5900X/1080ti combo but 550w sounds borderline to me, knowing many lower end PSU with Bronze or Gold don't hold up to their rating when tested and just explode, go up in smoke and flames, etc.. many many articles and YT vids about that.

From what I have read DCS needs certain Windows DLL's. It's likely a matter of a lot of work, money and time if you take the challange to rewrite the part which is incompatible and I dont think it is gonna happen anytime soon due to the effort needed. So, I didnt get DCS to work after all and also Ubuntu refused to fire up my desktop speakers but only my headphones which I couldnt solve this time, one of those mysteries you can come across if you stroll into Linux Land. On the other hand, while my sound worked on Ubuntu, I installed Project Cars 2 via Steam in Linux, attached my buddies Fanatec Wheel and just drove off, no hassle, no drivers, just click & drive, THAT'S how it should be. So there are 2 examples of Proton supported games, 1 so lala and the other one is "golden" state or what they call it and that works fantastic. Less trouble than in Windows and same locked 144fps down through Fuchsröhre at the Nordschleife;) That was inspiring to be honest, to see it CAN work if enough work has been put intoi it.

Change the board+CPU and fire it up. Windows will say it will get your new drivers and hardware ready, do it's thing..and reboot. That's basically it to do it quick & dirty. What might happen else where is that you void one or the other license of various software that is tight to your HW-ID that will obviously change. That you have to deal with if you use such software. Apart from that, I would check that you deinstall all SW that the new board does NOT have prior to switching and maybe copy the needed drivers onto your disk/ssd before you change it. That might help if the board needs a LAN driver etc.. best to have LAN/WLAN ready to install, the rest is business as usual.

The main bottleneck is and will be your GPU, there is some to gain plus smoothen out the experience since you jump two generations forward, your IPC & Clock will greatly advance. Since it is a drop-it-in replacement with your board it might not be a bad idea in general. I would rather think 5600X or 5900X.

Regardless of any GPU issues, man, get a SSD !!

If it came with a cable, use that one. It should not have an active PIN20. That's not easy to find out. If you buy a new DP cable that's when that question really rises in importance and I have no answer. Best would be to read the specs thoroughly and make sure it does not say anything about an active PIN20 feeding voltage into the GPU or iGPU/motherboard/CPU.

When you boot to Bios all Ports should work. The wrong DP cable can kill your components, this is widely unknown but true. It is referred to as "Pin20 Problem". Make very sure you do not run such a setup where it is WRONG or you have a high risc of frying one or the other part. I have had this with a Dell Optiplex with Dell 4k screen, all came from Dell and the DP cable they sent killed the motherboard eventually. Dell fixed it, took them 6+ months to find the root cause of this PC doing "strange" video related "things". That's how I learned that lesson.

Short answer: Not yet, but as time goes by and faster DDR5 modules arrives at a cheaper price, yes, then it will be better.

Yes, basically that's how it presents itself right now. As soon as you have more than a supported Game Controller, like Buttkicker, VR, TiR, Hotas..it becomes Quick Sand pretty fast and you can burn hours between Wine, Proton and "sudo apt install my_app" LoL. To be fair, I love it, Ubuntu Server pays part of my bills and I have the Desktop version installed it on numerous older machines of family and friends to keep them alive and secure for everyday computing. Most like it, some went back to Windows, but hey, you cant please everybody My personaly feeling is that MS will put brute force on any company that tries to make Linux a real alternative, despite they themselves use it heavily in their data centers. Their is no substitiute for Postfix, Apache and many others