BitMaster

I run DCS from a tripple Samsung 850/860 Pro 256GB Raid-0, read/write is 1.5GB/sec either way but access time and Random IO is that of a single drive, those numbers stay at the level of a single drive, usually a tiny bit less even. The reason why I raided them was to combine the volume and tzhe reason it's Pro over Evo is that I run a few VMs from that Raid-0 which is write heavy. I dont think it makes a noticable difference. But if I had to buy again I would definitely go NVMe 1-2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus or 980 Pro. The 980 Pro was at an all time low yesterday btw for 329€ 2TB or 140€ 1TB at amazon. NVMe is so much sleeker, no cables, no nothing, a much cleaner PC with mainly NVMe over my 6 drives + 1 NVMe, wished it was 3 x NVMe and done.

Made some screenshots, SP, P-47, Syria, Instant Action Free Flight, dead simple, look at the RAM before I even hit fly:

This is not actually what's going on. Install MSI Afterburner OSD and watch your RAM/Pagefile there. Syria is using a good part of those 32GB. In task Manager you have a tainted, misleading view.

If you build new, consider 64GB if it fits the bill. I bought Syria recently and suddenly VMware is not the only app I run that eats through those 32GB.

They become items of desire and wet dreams, maybe we should sell Posters of 6800XT's and 3080ti's so one can put them up next to the Lamborghini Countach Poster. Rarely seen in real life, way too expensive for casual people with real lives, just like that Lambo

Done, why not, can't harm

To actually get back to your original question: In the majority of cases the default 3.6-4.6 will be the faster solution. The system will allow all cores to go to 4.2-4.4G as long as the temp stays ok. In that state, your 5600X will draw max 73-75w when fully stressed. When you employ TPU with it's 2 settings, you basically allows Asus' AI chip to Auto-OC your rig. You said overclocking wasn't your primary goal for now ( which I understand, run properly before you fiddle with it ). TPU on Asus-Intel is not my pick, I have a few Asus Intel boards under my regime and I dont even bother TPU, it's too brutal in Volts. With your intention in mind not to overclock too much at first, I think PBO is the much better option vs. Asus TPU settings. To find out which one solution produces which results, try it out and run HWinfo with full Sensors, you can see the Wattage difference under the same load ( Cine R23 for example ) and how much temp that causes. I can tell you right away, the included Cooler does not really allow PBO. It works for a R23 run but gets borderline HOT. If you use the included fan, leave it ALL OFF if you intend to run things that really use all cores for a serious amount of time ( 90°C for 90minutes ain't cool ). I am almost sure that TPU 1 ( 2 for sure will ) will exceed the PBO wattage and thus temps. Use HWinfo and check yourself how much the cooling can take in your scenario. The included fan may do DCS with PBO just fine, but not an all core brutal Handbrake session for ours

Tbh, that would be awesome. It's only 6 months till end of '21...I have my doubts it will happen that fast.

I haven't fought in the Mi-8 for quite a while, last time I did it it a few rifle bullets could cripple the Hip. Is this still the case ? If yes, I hope they fix it so it can accompany the Hind and hopefully the Hind can take more punishment. Anyway, I am really excited to try it out, preordered

I would load test the system without Win10, aka a bootable USB stick with memtestx86 or boot into Ubuntu and install stressapptest by google, there are tons of google results how to install this on a bootable Linux in 2 minutes without any Linux Skills needed. Let it run for at least 2-4h with XMP and if it errors do the same without XMP. If that works, your RAM/IMC is causing trouble. Could be Volts, could be many things but you then know what triggers it. and btw, newest 10 is is 21H1

Have you enabled PBO ? That's what drives the CPU to it's limits within safe borders and I would not consider it overclocking in the traditional way as it meant to be used by AMD. I just put a 5600X together and did some tests, the difference with and w/o PBO is there but it is not that dramatic, you will likely see a 100-200MHz delta to default settings. It greatly depends on your CPU cooling solution how much more PBO can give you. PBO = Precision Boost Overdrive edit: I ran Cinebench R15/20/23 up and down the ladder and the difference was 4.4GHz vs. 4.6GHz aka 200MHz most of the time. I assume, since DCS will pull far less than Cinebench does, you will likely have the cores locked at 4.6G with PBO enabled, out of the box, no fiddling needed. I have to say, I am tempted to retire my 8700K and move AMD CPU + Board, this 5600x smoked my 5G-8700k in every aspect, without PBO ! Employ PBO and the delta grows even more, aka Frametime will become lower in DCS terms.

make sure DOCP (XMP) is on for RAM and PBO is on for the CPU. Best after an upgrade is to load defaults with F5, reboot and then set the Bios as needed

You could also have 2 Disks, 1 with 10 and 1 with 7 installed and choose by Bios or Boot-Option F-key which one to start but you cannot install both on 1 physical disk. Best is to deactivate one OS-drive by Bios or pulling cables while installing the other, this way you get 2 fully working Bootloaders...and then you can choose what to boot. Another option would be VMware Workstation 16 or Hyper-V. Hyper-V is free with 10 Pro and VMware WS can be purchased on eBay for as low as 2-3€, done that multiple times and it works. AT least with VMware you should be able to play most older games in FS with enough performance to make it worth. No reason to ditch 10 in favor for 7, you can have both.

Not sure if I misunderstand that, or if you misunderstood, anyway..to clarify: 21H1 is a new 10 UPGRADE, you will likely not see it within 10 Updates offered yet, some do but some also don't get it offered. If you want it but it's not offered you have to go to MS 10 DL page and get the Updater tool. Mind you, that takes AGES longer than doing it through the updates. Had 4 machines last night, all identical, 3 had it offered and took 15min to DL & Install but the 4th PC had to do the "I wanna upgrade Tool" route and that took ages compared to the other three. Either way, doing the Bios' ain't a bad idea either, often things get changed in Bios and are not listed in the What's New description at all. Good Luck

To me this seems to be a problem of shifting focus and not an actual USB disconnect issue. The only good thing is that you have found a workaround. Along the way, one of the myriad of updates coming will eventually fix it, be it mouse, gpu, usb, chipset, windows itself...who knows !? You could try 10 21H1 and see if that cures it.

Just got Syria a couple days ago and I have to say, it is by far the best looking map so far. This is how DCS should appear like on all maps. The perception of depth is outstanding, something I missed with previous iterations of the other maps. Performance is ok, still stay above 60 with fairly high LOD. Good job !

Despite I thought I was going to relax and take a break...ehhh...just spend some money on the Hind, Syria, P47, A10-II and some more LoL Can't wait to fly this beast. ...and btw, I am usually against Pre-Release or Beta launches in general but ED hasn't let me down yet when it comes to delivering. It may take a year longer, or two...but eventually we get clouds...and ATC...and all the rest ( multi threading and DynCamp ). looking forward

Doing the RAM won't bring peace. You actually need to build a new PC. There is no "RTX"-1070ti, either its a 1070 series "GTX"-Pascal GPU or a 2070 or even 3070 series "RTX", but 1000series did not have RTX but GTX. If it's a 2070ti you could keep that card for 2560x1440, you wouldnt need to buy a better card. For the CPU/RAM/MoBo thing...AMD and Intel, both have good CPU's, the real key factor is what you can buy for a moderate price and what only exists on webpages and wet dreams. If you can keep your GPU 1500-2000 is plenty. If you need to buy a GPU that money alone will need to be burned on a GPU as the market is such as of now. There is no 2560x1440 GPU around for less than say 1500ish €, it's a shame but that's how it is.

Yah, don't accept this !

Never used it before but sounds like a great idea...LoL 1 entry now...

Yah, those prices....just got info from a friend who spent a fortune on a 3090 this week...if it has to be it has to BE Only good thing, you can still sell your 1080ti for 600+€ on eBay....just INSANE

I would copy & safe the DCS folder if the DL makes you worry and THEN I would install a fresh copy of 10 onto that NVMe drive while no other drive is connected to the board at all. If you have a 2nd drive connected Win10 may or may not install the bootloader on that 2nd drive amongst other stupid things. Format that drive before you begin if you can. Windows Installer does not wipe all partitions that can be possibly there, so it is best to wipe the drive on a Mac, Linux or Windows with 3rd party tools ( many free ones around to format a drive ). You can also use Gparted on a bootable USB Stick. My recommendation is to install a fresh copy of 10 and backup&restore DCS. So many new drivers needed, so many old drivers installed...etc... *If your 10-Installer USB disk doesnt see any drive, reformat the stick and make a new one with the MS tool provided on MS's website, Media Creation Tool. Happened to me 2 weeks ago, made a new stick and it worked.

Defender If you really want to spend money then my pick was Avira or Kaspersky

You are right that the card can get even hotter before it throttles. None the less, the components dont like that much heat forever. I also do know that there is little you can do about it, maybe better venting the case etc.. or switch to DIY WC with GPU included, which is a rather expensive. Anyway, not really on topic... just a general reminder.

Your card runs way too hot to have a long life.