tovivan

Any idea what their prices will be?

I've been using Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo for 3 or 4 years now and couldn't be happier with it. :) Bought a second fan, so now I'm using the push-pull method. Thank god my midi tower is pretty roomy (wide), so I can even have the side closed. :D Er, or is it push-push? Hm. :huh: :music_whistling: :joystick:

Fair enough. :beer: Hopefully a tester or a dev will speak out and clear this up because many people would be interested.

No offense to anyone involved, but I've seen 7 years old posts on this forum talking about DCS World 2 coming out "soon" and speculations what improvements will it have and if current or future builds will be good for it. I am getting new specs as well, but I'm not cosidering DCSW2 as a factor in building. Nor do I expect DCSW2 to improve performance any when it comes out - bitter experience learned years ago with other titles where sequels were even worse optimised than original games. If it does, both come out and improve performance, nobody will be more glad than I. :) To wrap up, my suggestion is to approach your build with the intent of making it as good (strong/stable) as you can on your budget without the pressure of holding it up to a game if it holds up. :)

Hm, I haven't found any K version of 4590 and reviews say that B85 is not really a good oc board. And I got addicted to oc-ing when I achieved a steady 4.3 GHz over the stock 3.1 GHz on my 8120 at only 50'C... well steady for the last 4 months before I went and flashed it. :doh: The MSI Z97 PC Mate and Asrock Z97 Pro4 are contenders right now, but Asrock seems to be built better. I would rather stay away from Gigabyte as I haven't had much good experience with it lately (a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT of BSODs from day 1, the one before that false reporting power surges and shutting down my pc with any but the PSU it came shipped with). This is gonna be a dumb question, but does UEFI BIOS work with Win 7? I've read that it loads into bios only after you loaded Windows. Sounds limited to Win 8. Reminds me too much of the problems I had when I wanted to cure my laptop of it's Win 8 infestation on same day of buying it.

I have it. I haven't had many sticks, nor am I a good pilot, nor am I an expert on sticks, so can't give an indepth discussion on it's technology, but can only comment on the things that are apparent to a layman. First and foremost, I was disappointed with the build quality, I expected better. Heck, my Logitech was still rock-solid after 18 years of hard use, with nothing loose or falling off. But not TM. Within a few days of purchase the hand rest on the stick itself got loose and started wobbling on it's axis (left and right). But it's big enough even for a yeti to rest his hand there. Besides that, the sensor for the left movement seem to like their job a little too much and have problems going home when they should. Meaning, when I push the stick left and let go, the sensors don't turn always off and the plane keeps banking left (about 6/10 times). Which is visible by the fact that the LED at the stick base is still turned on. I have to give it a quick jerk right to disengage the sensors. Extremely annoying. That LED is another peeve of mine. While it lets you know the sensors are being dumb, it's way too big and way too powerful. In the dark it can interfere with your play. Some solve that by covering it with electric tape, I simply used an old floppy disk. It's still not perfect, but useful. Would instead prefer a small LED somewhere on the upper part of the stick (preferably under the #2 button). Base... the problem is that this stick was made for both right- and left-handers. And because of that it fails in some regard on both. The buttons are split equally on both sides on the base, so can be a bit of a bugger to use during flight. Right-hander dedicated stick would probably have a better placement of buttons so they could be easier accessible with the left hand. EXAMPLE: on left side I assigned buttons for sensors, on the right I have electrics, engines, canopy, gear, flaps and the like because I find it more important to quickly and without problems switch on radar/irst, deploy chaff and so on than to raise gear. That's why when I take off I usually have to let go of the stick or grab it with my left hand to raise gear and flaps. Same procedure when preparing for landing. Would prefer buttons that are smaller, clearly separated from each other and are all on the left side of the base. Throttle is more symbolic than not, it moves up and down only about 3cm. Not good for precise work. Separate throttle highly recommended (I got the Saitek throttle quadrant and am happy with it). The good thing is it's got a lot of buttons, they are big and with little practice you can easily hit the correct one in dark with eyes glued to the screen. Provided they are on the side your other hand is... The problem is one button almost flows into another. Smaller, maybe circular buttons separated from others with the base's plastic and sticking a bit out of the surface (to detect them easier) would be better. It doesn't stick to the table with suckers, but with sticky thingies. They need to be cleaned regularly and after one year they are still sticky enough to glue the stick firmly to the desk. The futuristic/neutral design is what you want to make of it, either annoying or good because it isn't a copy of some real plane that you have no wish of flying. For now that's all that comes to mind, if I remember something I'll post later. :) EDIT: the twist rudder is not that good, nor precise nor fun. If you are prone to hand-sweating it can be a bit of a witch to use because there is not much good purchase for twisting to the left (right-hander perspective). If you twist to the right, you have purchase/support in the form of the thumb-rest on the upper part of the stick. If I could afford them I would definitely rather buy pedals.

Would this be a good choice? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Bundle-PC-X18A-Intel-I5-4690K-4x-3-5-Ghz-MSI-Z97-HD-4600-/161417712785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item25953ed491 in English: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bundle-PC-X18A-Intel-I5-4690K-4x-3-5-Ghz-MSI-Z97-HD-4600-/161417712785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item25953ed491

This website has free video converters and other software (I've been using them for years) - DVD Video Soft http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/free-dvd-video-software-download.htm Another app I've used was VirtualDub with Xvid compression, that cut the size down quite a lot. Hope this helps.

Local or internet store? thanks! EDIT: PM sent. :)

Thanks for the answer! After seeing another forum member's specs, would a i7 4770 be a good choice for gaming? I saw one, new, for 249 eur namely. ASUS H-81 Gamer or M5A97 R2.0? I don't have a big budget so I'm trying to get as good a combination with what I can afford. 350-370 for the combo of mobo and cpu would be a sweet spot. Thanks for the answer! Sadly the 4790 is way out of my range. :(

Having ruined my mobo with a bad flash I'm forced to make a choice. I could just buy a chip for the mobo (sadly only vendor I found is over ebay and from USA, nothing in Europe), but it's probably time to upgrade from my FX-8120. Right now I have an AMD and Gigabyte combo that I've been seriously dissatisfied with from the start (I won't even go into that saga cause it would take 2 pages to explain all the problems I had), so I want to upgrade to an Intel chip. The last time I paid any sort of attention to the cpu stuff, it was the i5 2500k that ruled the world, with 3570 being it's successor (afaik). But now I can't find neither 2500 nor 3570 for sale anywhere. What would be a good substitute for these two cpus? I usually end up overclocking them after warranty is over (my CM Hyper 212 Evo cools like a bora wind so I'm covered on that part), so a good oc-er would be nice (that's the reason I liked the thought of 2500k) Also want to add a nice mobo of around 100 eur. To illustrate local prices for reference: i5 4590 (not K) is 228 eur. i5 4690 (not K version) is 261 eur. i5 4690K is 281 eur. Asrock Fatal1ty D85 Killer is 102 eur. Thanks.

Repaired, soon the same. BUT found the fault. Or the guilty party, whatever. "6DOFMultimonFixes1.22.rar" aka 6 DOF for all planes script. Facepalm at myself for completely forgetting about running it, but I honestly didn't know it worked by recreating the cockpit on it's own. Anyway, SOLVED. Thanks for all your help! :)

Yeah, that was my next plan. I hoped to avoid it, since I have changed many stuff for the Su-27 that I will need an hour to back up, but repairing is probably for the best. Maybe I will even be able to connect to some server then. xD Actually, no. I came into DCSW only with 1.2.6 (or so I think) and FC3 with 1.2.8 (and simply copy-pasted old config files as I updated the game or reinstalled windows), but your suggestions is still a good idea. Thank you both! EDIT: completely deleted both config folders in "Saved Games", but problem still persists, so not a config issue. Guess nothing else left but to repair.

I don't have any mods for the Su-25 installed so there is no immediate reason why my cockpit should look like this. Noticed only now (dunno how long it's been like this) because this is the first time in years I took an A out for a joyflight. If anybody has any idea how to correct it, I would be most grateful.

Hi! Is this pack still current/actual/uptodate and higher res than current stock FC3 pits or is it obsolete? Thanks

T'was taken 2 seconds before it went down in a ball of flame. :P

And yet you're still wrong, your 100% certainty up or down. :P My joystick is perfectly calibrated - it's also a joystick with HALL tech, the plane has NOTHING hanging from it at all, no rudder applied, same no matter what fuel status is, there is NO wind and yet the plane still WON'T fly straight. Also, the roll is only to the RIGHT, never to the left, no matter what direction I turn - again something that defeats the wind theory. The only solution I have found is to press A and then click the red button on stick to disengage (or your key assignment). Easily circumvented issue, but still a present issue with the game, not the joystick or wind. :)

You too? Then we were at the same party! :thumbup: I KNEW that that girl skulking around the drinks looked suspicious!

Quite possibly. :D Or make him sick in his cockpit/distract/entertain him long enough to get a shot in? :P EDIT: what I'm fighting with in trying to make a completely new pattern is recognising where the borders/edges are (of wings, fuselage) and which part is actually which.

First try First time playing with skinning. Tried the most contrasty combination of colours possible. Results are... interesting. :pilotfly: :music_whistling: Somehow I don't think this would scare the enemy. :D

Best known Yugoslav actor bar none, sadly like for most Slav/Eastern-European actors he was usually cast for the stereotypical Slav character - the bad guy.

I found instructions for Youtube, but they don't work for DM. Or I'm doing something wrong. Help needed and appreciated anyway. :)

Thanks for helping, guys! :thumbup: Meh.

Have a cockpit with for example, the picture of your girlfriend/wife attached, or a paper with some instructions written, or a lucky charm hanging from a fan in the Mi8 cockpit and so on...

As it says... Is there some kind of tutorial with step-by-step instructions online? Thanks!