Ant0ine

If you want to make your rudder less sensitive at low deflection (near center), then you should increase the curve settings. It will lower the sensitivity near center while increasing it at higher deflection. If you think you never need high deflection and/or use trim rudder a lot you could also try to lower the Y saturation setting. I would not recommend such a large center deadzone (8%), with that in my opinion you decrease your micro correction cause you do not know when your input are active or not. And so you overdo them until you notice it. Also not sure why the X saturation is at 98% instead of 100. This create high deadzone. Decreasing a little bit the active throw of your rudder. It can help if you have calibration problem and/or not really accurate rudder pedal sensor. Otherwise.. It make your rudder more sensitive. What is your rudder model? Note, you responded to a 2+ years old post :doh: Welcome on the forum!

That is actually what I did. I did set both my ministick to "LoRres 4w" hat. Then you also have to map the ministick push. Sorry I can't take more recent screenshot, my VKB stick is boxed, I'm selling it to buy the same thing but version MKIII. IIRC you have to go into Profile->POVs and here you set your ministick to LoRes 4w, then you choose Button V as output and select the line number you want the 4 virtual button. In my case 33..34...35..36. If you want ministick to always work in 4way hat mode then also choose Active=Always. Just like on my screenshot. You could also if desired turn off/hide the analog axes by un-checking the corresponding boxes. See my 2nd screenshot I did hide the gate ministick axes but left the master hat axes active, or vice versa I don't remember which is which. (En and Vs tick box in Profile->Axes).

I see you already know where to find most recent software/firmware. http://alex-oz.strana.de/index.htm Here is a quick video showing the update process : About the hat, I made a post about that a while ago, it should help, if not ask again. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=247988

Oh, maybe windows send it to "bed" to save energy? https://helpdeskgeek.com/how-to/prevent-windows-from-powering-off-usb-device/

The "recognition" problem likely come from your script which is incomplete. If the only thing you want from the script is the trigger fix then you should exclude the TWCS throttle. int main() { Configure(&Joystick, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&JoystickF18, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&HCougar, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&T16000L, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&T16000, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&LMFD, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&RMFD, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&TFRPHARudder, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&TFRPRudder, MODE_EXCLUDED); // Configure(&Throttle, MODE_EXCLUDED); Configure(&TWCSThrottle, MODE_EXCLUDED); Above are the exclude line for all Target compatible device afaik, I simply comment the line of the controller I want to include. By adding two // at the beginning of a line. I think if there is only the T16000 in your script then the default mapping target apply to the T16000 should work. We can see it at the end of the Target.tmh file. We can edit it as well. Indeed by default the hat isn't mapped IIRC. int T16000Map[] ={TS1,DX1, TS2,DX2, TS3,DX3, TS4,DX4, B5,DX5, B6,DX6, B7,DX7, B8,DX8, B9,DX9, B10,DX10, B11,DX11, B12,DX12, B13,DX13, B14,DX14, B15,DX15, B16,DX16, H1U,DXHATUP, H1L,DXHATLEFT, H1R,DXHATRIGHT, H1D,DXHATDOWN}; Edit : Oh but that is for button, maybe you absolutely need to remap axes, I don't remember. If so then here you go : MapAxis(&T16000, JOYX, DX_X_AXIS); MapAxis(&T16000, JOYY, DX_Y_AXIS); MapAxis(&T16000, RUDDER, DX_ZROT_AXIS); MapAxis(&T16000, THR, DX_SLIDER_AXIS); Edit : Oh also I think your pasted the line at the wrong place. Personally my mapping is inside int main(). Try this :

Thanks I'll share your post with a friend who still have a Warthog, he'll try that quickly I guess! :joystick:

I don't know why your stick isn't recognised when you run a script, could you share your script so we can check it please. Depending on the aircraft and even the ordinance you want to deliver you might need some different pusle duration. In your case for exemple doing CCRP isn't really possible anymore. We could do a toggle maybe. Press a button once to hold the virtual trigger down, press again to release.

I think he complain about friction rather than tension, I had two Warthog in the past, both were very "sticky" and combined to a quite strong spring, and the fact axes are combined it result in big neutral bump making small correction near center complicated. Weaker spring and/or extension will help, replacing the shitty TM grease as well. I used Nyogel 767A in mine. The Warthog Throttle lever when between Idle and OFF position will hold a button, by default. Problem is in DCS IIRC we can only map the PRESS event, so we can map the button to the Idle to OFF function, but we can't map the OFF to IDLE. That's why we often use external programmation software like Thrustmaster Target, Joystick Gremlin, UCR, Etc.. Exemple with Thrustmaster Target : //Engine Start MapKey(&Throttle, EOLIGN, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME); MapKey(&Throttle, EORIGN, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME); MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME); MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME); //Engine Stop MapKey(&Throttle, EOLMOTOR, PULSE+R_ALT+END); MapKey(&Throttle, EORMOTOR, PULSE+R_SHIFT+END); Edit : Heh wrong/incomplete code sorry. //Engine Start MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+HOME); MapKeyR(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+HOME); //Engine Stop MapKey(&Throttle, IDLELON, PULSE+R_ALT+END); MapKey(&Throttle, IDLERON, PULSE+R_SHIFT+END);

I just tried with Voice Attack and it work. No idea why Target have trouble to see Stick sometime. I know about some program that can mess with Target in various way.. Most likely Windows store, TeamSpeak 3 joystick plugin. I had trouble with The TS3 plugin, IIRC it prevented my script to STOP correctly, and so after that I couldn't run a script again until I killed some process.

Install latest driver and try again. Note that the default Target configuration isn't complete, you'll have to remap all axes and buttons manually, and due to Target virtual device limitation you'll have to remap a few buttons to keyboard. Also if you want to use my code you must use the Target Script Editor. https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-16000m-fcs-hotas-en/ http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/hotas/software/TARGET/TARGET_Script_Editor_Basics_v1.5_ENG.pdf Edit : Do you use AutoHotKey by chance? I'm trying to find an easier solution, that would not require you to reconfigure your whole hotas for all your module just to fix your trigger issue. Edit : I tried Joystick Gremlin but it will save how many time the button have been pressed and will loop the macro. In Joy2Key I can't find a way to do a macro.. Ooh I'll try Voice Attack. Do you have it? IIRC the free version is limited to 20 commands but that is enough to do what we want. I did the same as I did in Target with AutoHotKey, remapped to keyboard however, we can't remap to Joystick/Vjoy afaik, not easily at least. #SingleInstance force #Persistent #F1::Suspend, Toggle ; Windows key+F1 #F4::ExitApp ; Windows key+F4 4Joy4:: { SetkeyDelay, 0, 64 Send {Space} Sleep 333 Return } I did the test with my Warthog Throttle, the first 4 is the #ID Windows attributed to my Throttle, the second four is the button number. I use a little program to check and hotswap my controller ID if needed, JoyID. I do not know how to check ID in another way. :joystick:

The problem is with my code you won't be able to hold trigger as long as you hold the button which is what you would want for some ordonnance delivery. My code simply do a single pulse, no matter how long you hold the trigger. With your buggy trigger the pusle would certainly loop until you release the trigger.

I think I've read somewhere it will be 11cm on the TECS. I'll try to find the source. Edit : I've found this, but not sure that is what I was looking for. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3343763&postcount=107

For my latched switch I use a little chain that include a sort of sleep. It allow me to switch the position of the switch twice physically within 300ms while virtually it would move only once. That allow me to re-sync physical/virtual switch. That might work for you.. Only for short trigger pulsation however. No idea how we can make long press work properlly again. //APU (APU) = Automatic RPM regulator = (DX52;DX53) = MapKey(&Throttle, APUON, CHAIN(DOWN+DX52, D(300), UP+DX52)); MapKeyR(&Throttle, APUON, CHAIN(DOWN+DX52, D(300), UP+DX52)); DX52 being mapped to Automatic RPM regulator cycle switch. 2 positions switch on the 109, 190 I fly. So for your T16K trigger it should be : MapKey(&T16000, TS1, CHAIN(DOWN+DX1, D(300), UP+DX1)); Adjust delay duration as needed. Edit : We could change the delay duration on the fly.. MapKey(&Throttle, APPAT, EXEC("MapKey(&T16000, TS1, CHAIN(DOWN+DX1, D(64), UP+DX1);")); MapKey(&Throttle, APAH, EXEC("MapKey(&T16000, TS1, CHAIN(DOWN+DX1, D(1000), UP+DX1);")); MapKey(&Throttle, APALT, EXEC("MapKey(&T16000, TS1, CHAIN(DOWN+DX1, D(2000), UP+DX1);"));

I think they talk about a similar problem here on a french forum. http://www.checksix-forums.com/viewtopic.php?p=1719796#p1719796 He explain the magnet isn't correctly aligned. He rotated it about ~2mm clockwise and that solved his problem.

The automatic recognition of the axes might not work for some reasons, try to assign them manually using the drop down menu.

I don't have the source of that. I quote you Fallout9 from Discord.

Have you tried to assign them manually using the drop down menu?

My GF MKII cam aren't in great shape after 1 years of partial usage. However I think it is important to note that I play with dual 50 spring per axes + an extension. No idea if the new manufacturing way will improve cam longevity but I guess that is what they wanted to improve. My cam looks scratched and rusty.

I don't see any error here. Please share the script so we can check it. "xxx cannot be found" isn't an error. It is just that the script include a device that you do not have connected to your pc. JoystickF18 = "VID_044F&PID_0403" TWCSThrottle = "VID_044F&PID_B687" TFRPHARudder = "VID_044F&PID_B68F"

I guess the problem is that the pulse duration send by your button box is too short. Try to increase it if you can, to something like 50ms. (Edit : Heh check if that is acutally the problem first. Simply map a keybind to one of the buggy panel button and press&HOLD the key yourself). If you can't increase the pulse duration with your button box soft then you'll another software. Like AutoHotKey or Joystick Gremlin. See here someone solved similar problem in the F16 using AHK. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=255394

Then you want to do macro? For exemple press a Warthog button and it will automatically open menu, navigate menu and select an option? If so you could use the TM Target software (I do no advise it). Edit : Except if you are already using it. Because if you don't you will have to remap everything for all your module etc.. Using target is like getting a whole new controller. You could Voice Attack as well. As input instead of voice you can have a controller button. Both press and release IIRC. You could use JoyToKey. But I think you can only have four event in a single macro. It might be too few. Also Joystick Gremlin. Which is the best in my opinion and experience. Any program that can read controller as input, and output a macro in short. AutoHotKey as well. Joystick Gremlin is the easiest and most polyvalent I know. It's free but I would pay for it if needed. It is also easy to enter in contact with the dev and get help. :joystick:

https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2018/09/thrustmaster-tpr-is-the-king-of-mass-market-flight-sim-pedals/3/ Have a look at the mounting chapter. TL;DR. Yes if we remove the Obutto pedal plate.

I would try to spray some contact cleaner into the pot. Here is the disassembly/review video. Good luck

:thumbup: Then I advise to use Joystick Gremlin to properly match physical/virtual detent(s). https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=250033

Disclaimer, I do not own nor have tried any of those base. Afaik the WarBrd base is designed for desktop/short mount use. And so without extension. Its cam profile and springs are designed with that in mind. It have large throw +/-22°. Dual cam per axes with extension spring. While the T50 base is indented to be center mounted and be used with an extended stick. From what I've read the tension can be set to much stronger than we can on the WarBrd. The throw is quite lower than on the WarBrd to prevent clearance problem I guess. Also as it is supposed to hold an extended grip a large throw isn't really necessary. T50 was +/-15°. T50CM is +/-16°. Single cam per axis with compression springs that we can fine tune easily - without disassembly. I do not know if compression/extension spring and dual cam/single make any difference in feel.