aeliusg

Did you get a proper 4K TV? If so you'll want to use Displayport if you want to get 4K at 60hz. Get a Displayport-certified Displayport cable. Most of the new ones should be.

Look here: https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/151681/joystick-or-hotas-desk-mounting-hardware#latest A little expensive, but seems to work. I'll be able to tell you more tomorrow when I get mine, if you have any questions.

No issues at 4K, everything works properly. It's actually 3840x2160 on most consumer displays, which is standard 16:9. Edit: text is proportionally smaller, however. If you use a larger display, or have really good eyes, this isn't a problem.

Yeah, that's why I stick with 3.8K and 30hz. A smooth 30 fps is fine for me on DCS. I was considering doing an Optoma GT760 setup at 720p with black-frame insertion at 120hz, but having the resolution to discern cockpit labels is more important to me than silky-smooth terrain at the moment. Maybe when EDGE finally comes around and OLED is affordable we can have a bit of both. P.S. Actually only the 50" and 39" do 120hz at 1080p, the 55" cannot, I believe, so don't buy it or the larger 65" if you need 120hz Edit: CaptainPecan, can you actually get 120 fps constant? I was going to do some tests at 720p but since I decided against it I never did end up doing them.

Don't forget 1080p at 120hz. There's really nothing like it out there. Considering I got it on sale for $429 I'm completely blown away.

If you are testing on your own laptop, you may as well download the drivers: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=3&pid=311&cid=1 Then go to game controllers/properties or settings and test it, same way you test your Logitech joystick.

If you need to put the spring back on, hook one end to the plastic and use a pair of pliers to wrangle the other end. It's been a while since I took apart my pedals so I couldn't tell you for sure about where that goes but my advice is to play around with it and you can usually see where it goes :p.

Where are you testing it? I'm pretty sure you can use the regular game controller dialog to test it without even installing any drivers if that's not convenient. The buttons on the stick will likely all work, but be sure to test the various hats. The grey one on the top right of the stick is an 8-way POV and the other ones show up as button presses. The hat on the left side of the stick also has a press-down button. You'll want to pay attention to the switches on the throttle. Make sure the flaps switch isn't too loose and the hats on the the side of it don't feel loose either. Besides that look for smoothness in the stick. There's always a little friction when you move it at first but it should be buttery smooth afterwards. If it's only got 20 hours like you said there probably won't be any issues (if it went bad I think the guy would've returned it, right?).

So who bet on Germany? That final few minutes was a hell of a sweat. Can't believe the ref wouldn't blow the whistle.

It takes a lot of power to lift a few tons of metal off the ground by its bootstraps. Sometimes I'm still amazed at how helicopters even manage to fly honestly, but physics is a pretty cool guy. And, you don't want any curves or other things going on with your collective axis. You want it to be linear so you have a good idea of how much power is left. Besides, once you lift off and start moving forward, effective translational lift will kick in and you'll want to drop collective fairly significantly to fly level at cruise speed. If your collective curve is set to emphasize the pickup phase, or any particular phase of flight, then you're losing precision on the collective axis in every other possible scenario.

Excellent, amazing stuff! You have more effective dof than almost all of the high-cost consumer motion simulators, in a very compact setup, too.:pilotfly::joystick: Can't wait for you to tell us more. :book: [Also, have you considered adding a transducer (bass shaker/Buttkicker) to your setup? With your DIY skills, making will be easy no doubt and as cost effective as your motion-simulator.] - Never mind, I see you've already incorporated one.

You shouldn't have to do anything with producer.cfg. That's only to enable/disable FFB. Try switching your axes in the FFB tune pop-up. The zero-value that post is referring to is probably the resting FFB value. If the resting value is not read properly by the Logitech drivers the wheel will center to its default position. At least I think that's the case. That post referred to a fix, that which I don't know has been implemented in 1.2.8. As it is my G940 centers well enough though the trim does not turn off or reset.

Make sure you turn off centering spring in the Logitech profiler. This thread may be of interest to you: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=41637 Also there may be a problem with Logitech drivers and DCS FFB commands. The Logitech drivers don't respond to a zero value for constant force: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99350&page=6&highlight=g940+ffb So it is not as straightforward as it could be.

How soon do you want to have your system ready? If it's a build it by next week kind of thing, I would go with a new generation AMD card: R9 290 and above. AMD has done poorly in DCS in the past, but that is primarily because of their poor DX9 driver implementation. As EDGE is supposed to be DX11, AMD is your best performer for the cost right now. Your system seems kind of old, so you may be eager to build a new one. If that's the case, I would put money on my advice. You've waited this long however, if cost or value is an issue you may want to wait for the new cards in a few (or more) months. The new ones will perform even better, no doubt, and the old ones will be discounted. Though, keep in mind the opportunity cost of not having an enjoyable system in the meantime. Waiting on computer hardware is never a very profitable idea in my opinion, especially if you are not building ultra-high-end.

Well, I won't mention it anymore :music_whistling:

I hope there aren't any "extra" entries...

You and the original poster must use epoxy and not merely "super-glue" which is still a thin adhesive despite being very sticky. For parts like this that have high force acting on it, epoxy's high tensile strength and volume is a must. The epoxy dries into essentially a very strong plastic and can be sanded, drilled and otherwise worked to fit the original shape of the part.

Are you talking about the offset on the grip? That's so it's easier on your wrist to work all the buttons.

Glad to help, Stuntie. Ewertsp, I think it's very possible. Here's how the whole thing works: the hall sensor detects a center position based on the orientation of the circular magnet at the end of the stick and the firmware outputs a motor position based on that center. The center position is calibrated out of the factory and barring a reverse-engineering of the firmware, I don't think it can be changed. So you'll have to play with orienting or strengthening the magnet field to keep that center orientation. I don't think the gearing and motor control has any limits per se as long as you keep the hall sensor within it's proper bounds. You don't even have to keep any of the original gimbal mechanism and gearing, and you can probably switch to some bigger motors if you have an electrical engineer look at it. Only thing keeping such a project from being done is the amount of time that would be required.

I'm in.

August and the Dora then? Can you tell I'm looking for hints?:P

Looks excellent, Abburo. What do you fly?

Have you tried all of your USB ports? Sometimes these things don't play well with USB 3.0, or you may have a bad port.

G940 no doubt, the Warthog is horrible for "floaty" planes. I can't believe you're asking this question if you have both on hand :lol:. Use the Warthog throttle, though, and other pedals if you have them. G940's reversal bug is all too apparent in DCS.

Does this mean EDGE in July? Maybe? I hope performance is as good as the looks. If it could perform like the War Thunder engine and look half as good: OH BOY OH BOY OH BOY