Sokol1_br

1N4148 is the most recommended for joystick matrix. The only explanation for buttons don't work with diode is wrong diode orientation, or mix rows and columns... But if you don't have ghost issue leave as is. :)

What diode you use?

Well, some guys may want an stick for RIO. :D

What will be the use for an analog axis in this thumb wheel, since the wheel is spring back to center position, or work like a "Momentary-OFF-Momentary" switch?

And is free. :) Anyway: https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/XB2-EB60-22mm-Dia-Push-Button_60639430910.html

TARGET 'virtual device' support 8 axes, T.16000M FCS stick has 3 and WCS throttle 5 axes, so unless you have an TFRP or TPR pedals together all axes should be usable. If have TFRP or TPR pedals need exclude then from 'virtual device'.

Bases Gunfighter or Gladiator PRO are not tied to specific grip model, but accept various: KG-12, MCG, MCG PRO, SCG, SCG Premium Gladiator PRO Mk.I is not compatible with SCG and MCG due use of different connector for grips. Time ago are compatible with Warthog grip using an specific adapter (seems discontinued for a while).

OK, seems that "rapid fire" 2nd switch is under PCB. https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_2018_12/_DSC8720.JPG.466ada9d3ea2285c3416c3e0889cc772.JPG

BTW - Swap-able A1 HAT - mini-stick with center push by conventional HAT with center push, is the top - right (in right hand grip). 1 button - "Rapid fire" trigger 2 buttons - Two stage trigger 1 button - Push button on right side(in right hand grip) What is the 5th button?

And Tm TPR.

I think I confuse this scheme - labeling is misleading, in left side say one thing, in right another. :) Anyway follow the scheme and diode orientation, that is different from switch (button) to encoder.

As far I remember this lower brake lever was created when the owner of this BRD base use Warthog grip. He don't use pot or sensor in this lever axis, but an Load Cell.

Look in this scheme for MMjoy2 Diode Matrix - switches is connected different than encoder: Switches have their diode connected to Matrix column. Encoder have their diodes connected to Matrix rows.

As I said above, wire switch separated from encoder in MMjoy2 inputs. 2 wires for switch in one row and column pins of matrix. 3 wires for encoder in another row and column pins of matrix. Don't mix then. The PCB under this encoder is done for Serial connection.

Don't need remove encoder from PCB - risk damage their internals with solder iron heat - industrial solder is hard to remove. Leave then there but cut PCB trails from encoder pins for PCB pins and put straight length of wires there, one for each pint, in that way you leave switch isolated from encoder. This PCB seems designed for serial connection, in MMjoy2 you need use Diode Matrix or Shift Register connection.

The noise in T-Rudder is caused by spring rings friction against fixation hook points, that have straight corners. I fix this "kiiick, kiiick" in this way: But just try applying metal grease in spring hooks, and spring coils.

PCB in this KY-040 Encoder more hinder than help for use in MMjoy2, because are resistors in PCB and common pin for Encoder and Switch are shared. https://i0.wp.com/henrysbench.capnfatz.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Keyes-KY-040-Rotary-Encoder-Module-Schematic.png

An Encoder use two buttons connections, then need 3 pins = button 1, button 2, Common. Your Encoder have 5 pins because have a 3rd button when pressed, this button have independent connection, hence 2 more pins instead 1. Wire Encoder 3 pins like Github scheme and push button 2 pins like a ordinary button.

In Cougar "hay days" the UberNXT gimbal+HAL sensor upgrade cost more than stick.

1:10 "Real stick has plastic trigger button" and people complain if manufacturer of their game stick use plastic trigger button. :)

This explains why some eventually break. :D

But can simulate with pedals and VKB MCG, VPC T50 sticks. :thumbup:

Warthog grip "neck" is made on Zamac (cheap pottery metal), is not uncommon break even using Warthog base. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3678573&postcount=1 VPC base use strong springs, what can make this part fail more easily, specially with extension. Same issue happens when using Real Simulator Force Sense base. The fault is in the stick, not in the bases - well, Warthog base gimbal plastic "sphere" broken is another know issue.

No, you will don't loose any button if change from Warthog grip for Tm F-18 grip, both (game version) has same number of buttons = 19 + POV HAT, although IRL grips has different number of buttons.

You can't replace 1N4148 with LED's, their function is different. For test few buttons (1 row x 1 column) don't need place diodes diodes. An practical approach for LED, use DPST/DPDT switches - they are two switches side by side operated by one common lever, wire one side in MMjoy matrix or Shift Register, the other side in LED, use external (of Arduino) power source for LED's. Switch up some button in MMjoy is ON, LED is ON, switch down button OFF, LED OFF.