Sokol1_br

"Video review" of WarRBD grip. https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/34164-forgotten-flight-sticks-il-2-spage-grip/page/2/

How is WarBRD gimbal usage compared with T50 gimbal?

Sometimes an axes don't have "sensitivity" to be recognized by DCS controls, try assign this rotary selecting by axis name (look in Windows Games Controller) in the drop down menu in DCS assignment window.

Depends on your hand size, if is small has this suggested "finger mod": :D Or this radical "cut and glue" shrink: Or "cheap and dirt" palm rest mod's: I make this "beautiful" ;) removable piece for CombatStick and FighterStick, with Eppoxy put, latter was painted (don't find the picture):

Very subjective, but the better functionality of Fighterstick worth much of the price difference. Is 16 buttons on grip (plus POV HAT) - with a convenient "pinky" button for use as "shift" for other buttons/HAT's. T.16000M have the same amount of buttons (16+POV HAT), but only 4 buttons in grip, without "pinky" button and 6 buttons on base are in wrong side - right (or left for left-handed), what result less functional, specially if use as part of HOTAS, why I suggest the "frankenstick" mod with used CH grip. T.16000M major 'plus' is use contactless sensor in main axes (X/Y), and cost less. FighterStick major 'con' is use the same electronics since 1999 (8 bits). Their "spikes" issue is illustrated there: And the mechanical "deadzone" at end or axis movement illustrated there: The axes separation is illustrated by this picture - CH gimbal work similar to EvenStrain Cougar gimbal: https://i.imgur.com/OcIhdJC.jpg But this separation of axes have a penalty in CH gimbal, a very tactile and audible "clunk" in center position.

Neither T.16000 or CH, but for an price in betweenVKB Gladiator. ;) Their only "con" is a very awkward HAT switch - disguised as a button. Anyway, if you have DIY skill get T.1600M and an used CH Combatstick/Fighterstick from eBay - can be old gameport version, you want only their grip. Then install this grip in place of T.16000M grip, you have a 10/16 buttons* +POV HAT grip, with "pinky" button in place of 4 buttons + POV HAT grip. *Will migrate some of base buttons connections for grip. On simple side, just by install a "pinky" button in T.16000M - easy to do, you get better functionability. https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-683-0-56808800-1439970591.jpg

And not only then: :D https://www.amazon.com/Redbird-Alloy-RD1-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B01BOQAR3S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ch+pro+pedals&qid=1555509592&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Well, their side say: € 256.00 (for non EU buyers) what is ~$290.00. :D I don't want "sell" a MFG for you, but to be fair in price comparison is need consider the differences, other options don't have: - Bearings on pivots - CAM center system - what means less noticeable center "detent". - Two options of CAM profile, with different feel of operation, plus an optional profile. - Spring tension adjustable - Width, pedals angles adjustable -Contacless sensor in all 3 axes - others use potentiomer, of good quality in CH and cheap in Logitech, what means spikes on axis response (above was mentioned a "jitter" script), soon or later. CH at least offer replacement pot', Logitech no - see this model as disposable after warranty expire. This "PRO" is perhaps debatable, but worth note: - Crosswind was developed by simmer guy, with advise of other simmers and some real pilots, others (less costly) are consumer products in what the main directive is: profit. Anyway if CH and Saitek cost the same in local retailer, CH is overpriced, in Amazon.com is $125,00. Logitech is $170 in their webstore. Of course in different countries prices varies, in my "corner of the world" Logitech is sell for ... $ 435.00 in their official store. :mad:

Center mechanism and spring in Logitech pedal work very similar than in CH, both have a center "detent",* probable you are exchanging "6 for half a dozen". :) * For both models are user mod's for remove this "detent".

TFRP designer probable look there. ;) The major problem with Logitech G Flight Simulator Rudder Pedals is their price ~$170, he don't have nothing that justify cost ~40% more than CH or ~90% more than TFRP. Unfortunately the next option is MFG Crosswind at ~$290. I will not suggest VKB T-Rudder (~$220) because is a very peculiar model.

Look for smashed wires, that can happen during base reassembly. Un-plug and plug - if available, the connector of USB cable If is not this, static electricity of your hands could have damage circuit board, is rare but can happens.

Peek at this topic, there the main guy of TECS (Borada) development made post, discuss ideas and tech with Russian players. Will see too that this project still in early stage, the "it will take as long as it takes to make it" will take some time. ;) https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/6689-tecs-%D0%BF%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B2%D1%8B%D0%B9-%D0%B2%D0%B7%D0%B3%D0%BB%D1%8F%D0%B4/page/71/

http://www.simhq.com/_technology2/images/technology_104a_004.jpg Upper is Saitek PRO Flight pedal (now sell under Logitech brand). Off "entry-level" pedals (up to ~$200), CH is the most "bullet proof", their only real downside is to continue use the same electronics of 1999.

wheel Sand PRO don't fit for your purpose? Or Monstertech Stand: https://www.monstertech.de/en/product/flight-stand/ DIY: http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/uploads/monthly_02_2015/post-635-0-17219400-1423474182.jpg

Is not the case of MCG buttons #13 and 18 was set (in default profile) as "mode" selector for their respective hats. E.g. An HAT is button 14-15-16-17, the you press button #13 and HAT became buttons 23-24-25-26. Rinse and repeat. There's nothing wrong, Windows, test programs enumerate joysticks buttons from # 1. Some games, IL-2:46, Great Battles... enumerate joystick buttons from # 0, hence the difference, but this that don't cause any "collateral effect".

WarBRD grip "B-8" visual perhaps? In similar way "who will spends $$$ on a F-14 stick with ~12 buttons when could get an Warthog with 19 or a VPC CM2 with ~26 or a VKB MCG PRO with ~30, for similar price." ;)

But leaving twist axis unassigned, even if grip unintentionally rotate a bit when commanding roll or pull-up will not cause any undesired effect. BTW - WarBRD grip don't seems based on B-8 grip, but in Kamov Ka-26 grip - that may be "inspired" on B-8, but it's still a "Russian grip". ;) http://www.bredow-web.de/Kamow_Ka-26_-_Cockpit.jpg Edit - https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/34164-forgotten-flight-sticks-il-2-spage-grip/?do=findComment&comment=759609

You receive two CAM's with pedal and have an "realistic for propeller planes " as optional, features of each: https://mfg.simundza.com/assets/downloads/CAM%20Presentation.pdf

See this (encoder) explication: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4332855/re-mmjoy-mmjoy2-build-your-own-usb-controller#Post4332855 Think is good idea keep encoder buttons near, e.g. 1 - 2... 25 - 26... but not 17 - 20. And keep all Encoder connected in the same Shift Register M/C.

CH Products.

VKB or VPC is the natural option, since came with several springs with different resistances, different CAM profile options, with more "clear" center position, more "hard" center - CH, although use light springs have a very "hard" center - the audible and tactile "clunk". With this features plus a extension you can set the stick to a very light operation. Plus their advanced electronics with contactless sensor and USB controller with 4 or more times CH resolution (what is the same since ~1999). The suggested above VKB Gladiator (non PRO) have a very light operation - even more than CH, their gimbal is very similar to CH, but due damper grease don't have the characteristic "cluck" of CH gimbal when crossing center position. But Gladiator grip has few buttons: 3 physical that can be 8 with mode and shift and their HAT is probable the most awkward HAT put in joystick until today. :noexpression:

Each Shift Register (74HC165 or CD40921) m/c control 8 buttons, so theoretically the maximum you can chain is 15.

A interesting option for connect wires without iron solder, Scotchlock connectors.

Tick "Slider" and the axis will have no neutral (center): https://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=207546&stc=1&d=1553860335

What VKB "flirt" at some years is make they hardware communicate with hardware of other brands, through the BUS connector in their controllers. For example, at time are possible use a Logitech G-940 throttle plugged in Black Mamba stick base. But seems they give up of this way, probable too complicated.