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Take this MagREZ sensors as option for replace original pots* - WHEN they worm out. If now they are working OK, spike free: "if ain't broken, don't fix". ;) Just replace a good pot of MS FFB2 with contacless sensor will don't show any improvement in use - are a topic there in what the guy test this. * Just because is high probable that you don't find the original pot for buy when need, their specifications is not know, someone (of joystick Industry) suspect that are Panasonic made, rated 5/10M cycles.

Of course is not that you want - a "TARGET 2", but for new potential buyers don't get the impression that keyboard, mouse emulation is exclusive feature of TARGET. ;)

For connect in BU0836 this plug work, has the same 1.25 space between pins. Connect like sydost say: But for connect this wire in MS FFB2 wire going for their pot the ideal is use solder*, just twist the wires is not ideal. * You can pay someone for do this, e.g. people that install sound in cars.

And, in BU0836 rotary switches (multi-position switches) can be configured for emulate encoder operation: press one button if turned clockwise, press another button if turned counterclockwise. The benefit of type is a clear click when change positions, what with encoder is just a faint click. ;)

Now "Inês is dead" but... ;) sydost You mean wire in this way? bbva compass bank locations

What Bodnar board - A or X? BU0836A pot connection: The only critical pin is INPUT, if invert +5V and GND will just invert pot reading direction. Bodnar controllers automatically disable analog input's that don't have pot/sensor connected - an welcome feature. The small pot is a MS FFB2 pot, but no info about what is +5V and GND wires. http://il2.kubannet.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=16085 Tip - Don't make solder on pot tab's - iron solder heat can damage pot trails. If opt in do, use heat dissipation clips (for solder). BTW - If eventually need pot replacement contact Rel4y in this forum, he make "MagREZ" (KMZ-41) contactless sensor PBC, that work in analog mode, so is direct replacement for pot.

19 buttons (+POV HAT) of ~27 buttons (+POV HAT) of T50 CM2 will work in Warthog base. Theoretically in VirPil Configurator you can define what will be this 19 buttons, with the logical to physical buttons association. For example following T50 (standard) buttons configuration - in red, except for left side of grip HAT, keep 5 way. Then when you eventually decide or are forced replace Warthog base, and get a T50 or WarBRD base can use the extra buttons of CM2. :thumbup:

Just in case look if the "articulation sphere" of gimbal or magnet support - that run inside "articulation sphere", is not cracked or broken, an torsion movement during installation of new stronger spring can cause this, since this parts are plastic.

Think this is the "perfect" solution for you (TARGET "addict") - an better (than) Tm base, with support (+ -) "bolt and play" for Warthog and F-18 grips, using TARGET. ;)

The announced - but not released "MCG TM" (Warthog base compatible) is basically the same MCG basic (non PRO) but with nut compatible with Warthog base, don't offer the extra axes and buttons of MCG PRO grip, because Warthog base don't support axes other than X, Y, neiter more buttons. In the end, with "MCG TM" you have the same functions of Warthog grip, just with different layout. https://i2.wp.com/vkbcontrollers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/MCG-Announce-Final.jpg?ssl=1

Specifically "Repair Service: Thrustmaster Warthog Throttle Main PCB (Bricked Warthog Fix)"

You can buy only (Warthog) - that can be used in VirPil bases (and in theory in VKB): https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3862570&postcount=6

But for what OP want control with axis: "radio volume"? A-10 axes assignment: This plane allow:

The module don't allow this, as you noticed: "...but I can’t figure out how to configure in-game as the option isn’t available in the Axis section to assign to the specific radio volume controls I am looking for." Some modules allow, e.g. P-51 allow set a analog axes for "VHF radio volume".

If X-52 mode selector and pinky (shift) button don't press DX buttons you can't use then in DCS controls setup. Pinky button at least you can change their behavior from "clutch" (exclusive for Saitek software) to DX button, just un-check "clutch" option:

You can use this multi-turn pot for elevator trim, although 10 turn will result in a very slow adjust - ideal is ~3 turns.

(VKB) TinyBox (T-Rudder controller) is black. :D https://vkbpro.fandom.com/wiki/TinyBox

Other causes of jitter is bad contact is potentiometer tabs - that is not soldered, and with cumulative use, is dirt inside pot - on resistive tracks, used pot's are not sealed.

VPC (VirPil) throttle use native Windows HID drivers, so is just "plug and play". Their software is for configure buttons mode, axis to buttons, update firmware,calibration, test... changes made are saved in joystick controller EPROM, you can't need run this software in game background. When you install a Warthog grip in VPC base you need use VPC software for load an appropriated profile for this grip, since buttons numbers is different from VPC grips in default profile.

Yes, adjustable "ball plunger" create steeps for afterburner and idle positions.

Winwing, When people ask for "software", they are expecting a keyboard emulator like CH Manager or Thrutstmaster TARGET, not more, not less. If you will offer this, an suggestion, don't make this software proprietary like the mentioned above - that work basically with their brand (are "workarounds"), but with ability to integrate your F-18 HOTAS, a MCG Crosswind pedal, and Black box panel, a DIY BU0836/MMJoy2 "button box", etc - or, any joystick controller recognized by Windows as HID. With this you are "reinventing the wheel". :)

No more deskmount "conflict" issues when using extensions:

If Warthog (that have a extra hidden cost = require dedicated rudder pedal) is out of your budget, this automatically exclude other "high end": VKB, VPC (VirPil), MFG, Slaw... What rest - that worth consideration, is: Saitek X-52 and X-56 (HOTAS CH Products (HOTAS) Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS (HOTAS) VKB Gladiator (3in1) T.16000M stick only (3in1) Generally: X-52, 56 advantage is include twist rudder good amount of axes and buttons, but QC is what you have read, is the brand with more cases of complains about faults - an lottery, but some user have then for years. CH advantage is an very sturdy construction - in fact superior than Warthog, despite this be made in majority in metal (ZAMAC an pot metal used e.g. in jewelry), you see Warthog with broken parts, but not CH's. But in matter of electronics CH is obsolete - still using the same of ~1999, what is OK for some, but not for others, specially those who migrate for "high end". Like Warthog has a hidden additional cost - require dedicated rudder pedal. T.16000M FCS HOTAS is probable the best cost/benefit, use same sensor of Warhog in X, Y axes, but cheap, no much durable pot in joy twist and throttle slider and in TWCS throttle axes, offer two options for control rudder, twist and rocker paddle. Construction is on par with Saitek, but with less complains about, more is twist rudder pot failing and stiction in TWC rails (pompously called "S.M.A.R.T"). :) VKB gladiator has the best features in "3in1" stick (with twist rudder and throttle disk/slider), using contact less sensor in X,Y and in twist axes. Their major drawback is that exist more in theory than in stock in (very limited) sellers and cost ~40/50% more that direct concurrent, T.16000M. T.16000M stick only will offer the best cost/benefit for an basic, affordable "entry level" stick. Their feature advantage is be ambidextrous, making then a cheap option for "HOSAS" system.

In Warthog throttle drivers package you have more advanced tools for calibration an test - include one specific for throttle, don't use the (obsolete) Windows Games Controllers wizard for calibration. Can use Windows Games controllers just for briefly test buttons functions.

B model with generic label seems more practical - has 1 slider, there's no much use for sliders.