Braeden108

I'm working on a project where I'm using encoders to tune radios. Specifically the M2000 Ka-50 and Uh-1 if that matters. I'm wondering how many pulses I should have per rotation on these encoders. I really have no idea. Also incremental encoders are the ones to use yeah?

A few years back I had no trouble setting up a JTAC. I could get it to work with a few clicks. But now I can't get JTACs, triggered actions, troop transport, anything that's not go over there to work. Am I just doing something wrong or are these features broken? For example I wanted to set up a smoke marker, So I created a triggered zone, I created a continuous action, set condition time more than 10 seconds, and action: smoke marker at the trigger zone at the altitude of the terrain. No dice. UPDATE: I found the smoke 3500 feet above the ground, in the sky.

I was trying to align a iso_container with a train car by rotating it using the standard method with no luck. All of the cargos ( I tried a few, and I assume this is a problem with all of them)wouldn't rotate. Not a huge issue but, still an issue.

Hahaha 6-12 months. Okay yeah I can do that... Or I can just take that handy dandy mod you have. So what makes changing the TAD map so difficult? I also wonder what its like to do it in the real A-10.

If your clip doesn't fit you can always get some 3M Dual lock, it's like velcro but much much better. Just find a flat spot on the ear piece and put the dual lock there. http://www.sailrite.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener?gclid=Cj0KEQiA1b7CBRDjmIPL4u-Zy6gBEiQAsJhTMFJfNVx1LWZVD0o21H_5ffULOb6ilTesmhPnpFalLOQaAnlI8P8HAQ

This might be one for the mods and apps section but I feel the A-10 guys will know more. I want to change the TAD map from the admittedly crappy flight chart to the F10 style map. Like is used in the Ka-50's ABRIS. Its so much easier to understand, gives you better SA. So does anyone know if that's possible?

I've been trying to get those clueless a-hole ground troops to get into my helicopter for a long time now. Does anyone know how to set it up so I can load ground troops into my helicopter?

Ooooffff I just got back from the Arduino.cc forum. You put one word in there wrong and people don't tell you the end of it. So I was just like you know the people in the DCS community are pretty damn fantastic. Super helpful. If you need some really obscure information someone will get it for you. Like the ratio of assholes to nice people is pretty damn low on here, S'great.

OHHHHHHH brilliant brilliant way to do it. Though I can see it reducing the strength of the tube a little. But that's not a big deal low stress application. Also I like the counterweight and damper, that's how I got my springless stick to work. Do you have a link to where to get one of those dampers? Those are hard to find.

UPDATE: Solved, I went over to the arduino forums and it was determine that the pins of my arduino were just dirty. I cleaned it with alcohol and flux remover and that fixed it right up. The issue was that with poor connectivity, this high resistance, The arduino's circuitry wasn't able to distinguish the signals. Therefore they ran together.

Great job sir! They look like something out of the 1950's Comfortable too, I also build my own but the petals sit at 70 degrees so I have to bend my foot up and oooo does it burn after a while.

Right, here is my diagram. I hope I get better at drawing these in time... I didn't add the wires show the wipers connecting to the ports to keep the complexity down. But all it is is each wiper goes on its own wire to its own port. And I'd like to reiterate this used to work. I didn't change anything it just broke.

I'll draw one up, but I only connected the power in parallel each pot wiper has its own wire

It's not binding issue, I was checking this using DI viewer. WHich is a better version of the stock windows control viewer. However this is helpful I'll do a sanity check on MMJoy to make sure all is as it should be there. Also the stick doesn't move to its maximum when push the pedal to its maximum.

When something pops up on my RWR, I turn to put it off my 12,3,6, or 9. I can then go to my TAD and move my cursor in the direction of the sam with ease. I move the cursor some distance out and make a markpoint I then instantly press china hat alf and make another markpoint. This gives me a line between points. I then fly some distance away, and repeat the process, put it on a cardinal direction and make a line. I might do this more than twice I might not. But what this allows you to do is find where your lines intersect. Because where they meet is about where the SAM should be. I call this method triangulation, because I got the idea from VOR triangulation. I then move my TGP to the intersection and try to find him. If I find him I make another markpoint, then run in on him. I get just outside his firing range and then hit the deck and look for approaches that will block his shot on me. And with my TGP and Mav cam slaved to that markpoint I'll never lose his location so all I have to do is fly in until I'm 6-4 miles out pop up and fire off my mav, then fly out. And remember to launch two mavs if it's a TOR because the TOR was build from the ground up to shoot down missiles.

I just got done with finals at my college and I was really looking forward to getting some flying in, :megalol: But the problems. Ohhhh the problems, my headtracker wasn't working, but I fixed that. Now, my damn joystick isn't working. So I us a sparkfun promicro (not a clone, which makes this more annoying) to manage the axes of my stick and my rudder pedals. The arduino then talks to MMJoy2 in order to talk to the sim. The problem here is that when I push my brake pedal the pedal's axis moves as expected. However the X-axis of the stick also moves... Same story for the other pedal and the y axis. These worked fine last time I flew. Now I don't fancy flying with my feet so I'd like to get to the bottom of this. The stick's axe's power is wired in series (that sentence was ugly as the girl you met at the bar last night when you wake up next to her in the morning.) The petals power is wired in parallel and all of these wires go to the ground and 5 volts of the arduino. I haven't gone probing around with my meter yet, wondering if anyone has a fix for this first.

Tried a saucer of milk? I'm sorry. I had to.

Hot damn! I believe it is

Hot damn! I believe it is

UPDATE: Got it fixed. I use Toshiba Bluetooth stack, which only has a 30 day trial period. So I installed this patch to try to fix it (Id like to buy a license but they don't sell them) I did a system restore to before I installed the patch because the patch changed my windows registry. And boom job done.

Well crap, I jump into my planes after havning not flown in a few days. relallly looking forward to flying. BUT no headtracking, I can't live without headtracking... I use freetrack with a Wiimote, I grabbed my old .dll's out of my DCS World folder and dropped them into 1.5.5 to try and fix the problem. No joy. You guys got any ideas?

Awesome so I was right in my interpretations of the pinouts. As always thanks Sokol

I haven't purchased a specific arduino yet, so it can be any. I understand how matrixing works (or maybe I don't) As far as i can tell the arduino leonardo has 19 ports for matrixing so I could make a matrix that is 10x9 for 90 functions? I don't need any axes. (plural of axis, I'm not choppin wood. Shouldn't it be spelled axies?)

Great collective and great video quality. I really want to know though, how did you get the twist throttle to work? I can't wrap my head around the mechanics of it. Did you use a hall effect sensor?

I am about to build my own. https://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=1271 Just got my switches in today. Going to have backlighting through laser etched acrylic. A rotary encoder on the face. Two 3 position rotary switches on top, with locking lever switches and regular switches. Sound like something you're interested in?