CyBerkut

Viper has it right. From (With emphasis added): http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2985548/Re_Thrustmaster_HOTAS_Warthog_.html#Post2985548 #2985548 - 03/29/10 06:57 PM

Leo Bodnar has load cell amplifier configurations available for both uni-directional (pedal) and bi-directional (joystick) http://www.leobodnar.com/products/LC-amp/ I don't know if his USB Load Cell Interface BU0836-LC can accomodate both types of configs: http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836-LC/ Good luck!

Somewhere north of Tampa, too. ;)

*You* first! I don't want anything to do with either end of that behemoth... (let alone both simultaneously).

Nice! Very creative thinking and follow-through. :thumbup:

Yeah, and if he decides to drop it in the house, what would you do about it? It's not like *I'm* gonna try and rub his nose in it... :music_whistling:

I doubt that (known to be currently) pregnant crew members would be allowed to stay on board a nuclear reactor powered submarine (and capable of carrying nuclear weapons) for very long. If that's the case, it will be interesting to see how they balance that concern against the boat's deployment requirements. As I recall, pregnant female employees in commercial nuclear power plants get re-assigned to duties that keep them from getting exposure. Submarines during my time in the service probably couldn't implement such an approach on-board and still be within satisfactory limits. I don't know about later designs. The newer boats may have even lower dose areas, but I'm pretty sure the limits have tightened up also.

Check out the VX-31 Duty Desk: http://rexkrugmansaircraft.com/VX31DD.htm Kudos to 531 Ghost for posting it over at SimHQ's forums. :thumbup: *That* is craftsmanship!

I think it stems from him focusing on how Hall Sensors function, whereas you appeared to be talking about the overall stick output. Technically speaking, what he is talking about is correct. The hall sensor constantly outputs a signal (just as there is always an output from a potentiometer) in an energized stick. It is just that it is a steady output while the stick is not being moved/deflected. "Context is everything." :)

Good advice there! There is a remaining potential benefit to obtaining someone else's profile, though... If they are using the same keys/combinations as you intend to (as in, the standard commands already in the sim), then it can at least save you a lot of command key combo entering. Load up their profile, and then just start making your own by pulling down the commands, rather than having to create the commands from scratch. (just double check the key combos, and re-name the commands if desired to whatever sticks best in your mind.).

Maybe more like, a** fired... :( Perhaps small batches are in order. :music_whistling:

Well, if someone has something along those lines, and *wants* the newer buttons, etc. with more realistic pressures... that makes (expensive) sense. Considering what some folks have poured into their pits, this isn't inconceivable. I've certainly seen people spend far more money on less durable/permanent things in the pursuit of their hobbies.

Based on the picture that Sokol posted in #306 in this thread, I'd say it is a very safe bet that it is not FFB.

I believe the way trim functions on the fixed wing aircraft is such that having FFB controllers hold trimmed positions (off center) is not an issue for them. As for DCS:BS, I also appreciate what they have accomplished, and certainly can see why support for FFB pedals would be waaaaaay down on their list of priorities. I don't know how much code they would need to tweak / add to accomodate FFB support for the stick and pedals simultaneously in DCS:BS. If they could feasibly do it, I imagine there would be some happy pit builders, etc., as using FFB steering wheels to create FFB rudder pedals is a lot less difficult than some of the other wild stuff that folks have come up with.

IF the DCS:BS software would support simultaneous use of both an FFB stick and pedals, the usefulness of the FFB pedals would be that they would hold their trimmed position, just as the stick does. No more need to re-center them when releasing the trim button.

Well, there aren't consumer grade FFB rudder pedals out on the market, AFAIK... but an FFB steering wheel can be linked to the mechanical portions of a set of pedals. The FFB steering wheel then becomes the rudder pedal input.

DCS:BS will do FFB pedals if you make them, as I understand it. The problem seems to be with attempting to run BOTH FFB pedals and stick simultaneously. (TriggerHappy has written about this in the forums, IIRC). Having said that, I'm not sure how you handle a non-FFB stick with FFB pedals as far as press Trim button / release Trim button goes for DCS:BS .... (re-center, not re-center, how fast, etc.) I had planned to make FFB pedals by combining a Saitek FFB steering wheel with the mechanics of my old TM RCS pedals. I held off on completing it due to a desire to get a new desktop to run DCS:BS / LOFC2, etc. upon. (Hasn't happened yet, but it's getting close, me thinks...). Then, seeing Trigger's report on the problem with running 2 FFB's simultaneously took the rest of the wind out of those sails. Now that LOFC2 is out, and the next DCS module is an A-10C, FFB controllers have dropped down my list of priorities a good ways. I suspect the fixed wing stuff will keep me busy enough to last awhile.

Ah yes, my mistake. :doh: I should have said, "depending on what you use for a visible light filter." As in, what IR frequencies it allows to pass. I forget the wavelengths for the IR LEDs recommended for building your own rig, versus what the wavelength is on the TrackClip Pro IR LEDs. If you dig around a little, I think I may have posted in these forums on that. If not here, then over on the FreeTrack forums.

That's going to depend a bit on what camera arrangement you have. I tried it with using a Wiimote for the camera, and it turns out that the wavelength/frequency of the IR LEDs in the TrackClip Pro and the Wiimote are not an ideal match. If you're going with a modified web cam, then you may get better results, depending on what you use for an IR filter.

Yes, Lucid, thanks for the report! A question for you, out of curiousity... have you tried simultaneously running FC2 sound to the speakers, while running Teamspeak to your USB headset? If so, did that work OK? It's not a solution to your stated problem, obviously... I'm just wondering if it works OK for you (if you tried it.)

Glad to help. It's a pretty obscure item, but you'd think there would be a bit more demand for that, with as many people gaming with speakers as there are. Enjoy!

The mic-only headset I mentioned earlier, is a Labtec LVA-7330. Apparently, they can still be found for sale: http://www.google.com/products?q=Labtec+LVA-7330&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=MOi_S7TfJYT68Aaf-PTzCA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBoQrQQwAA

I have a headband mounted boom mic (no earphones/speakers) that came included with an old tank sim (Armored Fist, IIRC). It sat unused for a long time, but I eventually decided to try it in combination with using PC speakers, instead of a typical headset. The headband wasn't particularly comfortable, and I eventually tried just putting the headband down around my neck, with the mic positioned upward in front of my mouth. It actually worked quite well. The reason I'm conveying this, is to simply illustrate that you could do something similar with a conventional lightweight boom mic headset that has earphones. Just put the earphones down around your neck (don't even plug the earphones in if you don't want feint noise coming out of them) and just angle the mic up in front of your mouth. If it's a decent directional / noise cancelling mic, it should do a decent job of not picking up the speakers. I mention this alternative, since a quick look on Google didn't turn up a mic-only PC headset. A more in-depth search might. Good luck!

I still have it in an un-opened, shrink wrapped box. (Yes, sad, I know) I see the box says it is a DOS 5.0 game... Maybe someday I'll fool with it.

Matt, thanks for chiming in again! I just re-read the thread... with the possible exception of Damli, I don't think anybody is having trouble with the ol' MS SW FFB2. (I guess you could be asking for anybody, though...) Damli's description sounds like his situation may just be related to an old/worn stick... Just from reading the message traffic here and in other threads, the most common FFB related problems seem to be the Logitech G940 (which you're already talking to Logitech about) and the Saitek Evo Force. Thanks for being so hands-on with things!