Bob_Bushman

Well when after a year and half of "we are really close to release guys just have to figure issue x out first, then our factory will pump 5000 out in a day". Then people do get their units with an almost comical level of QA issues followed by an unresponsive support team. Mine was fully dead as mentioned on arrival, and it took them four months to get me my replacement, and to get any traction on my ticket I had to accost them publicly on their forums just to get it looked at. It goes against my sense to do so, but that seemed to have been the way to catch the attention of someone who can do something, cause it worked. That was the first three weeks, the next two months was spent trying to suss out how to get my unit shipped back and another three weeks to get the replacememt to me, and from some tales I'm hearing I'm feeling lucky it did. Yeah the unit is ambitious and has promise. But it's taking a fair bit of coaxing to get that out and Pimax as a business isn't helping themselves much. The terrain optimisation holds promise, that could make the 1080ti a viable option for the 5k and dcs. Another 10fps could be a huge boon at this point. And I was hoping to get another year out of my 1080ti.

Yeah that's what I would think as well. Well I have had the opportunity to spend the day fubnling around with the 5k. And surprisingly, progress. Might be it took the system a night's rest for things to kick in right But I was getting fairly smooth framerates, even with re-projection artefacts, before it has only been double vision. Now the Pimax is starting to show some promise, it might not be a complete paper weight either. Now I'm not quite doing a me-a culpa either. Dealing with pimax, well I needed to restock on ibuprofen doing that. And you need to find, just the right settings for each game and sim. Both in the Pitool software, then in steamvr, then in game. And changing anything will likely mean shutting everything down, re-starting services, rebooting the hmd, and things can be wonky so you this might need to be repeated a couple of times. Want to switch to another game. Well here we go again. The chief settings I had for my most recent was setting the hmd to normal fov, approximately 140 degrees and the hmd to 72hz. This allowed re-projection to kick on and run at 36fps. Still not as smooth as the rift but still, actually playable at a solid res bump and a much wider fov .

Problem for me, VR is triggering some insane, autistic bullshit for me. So I got to catch them all.... As for OLED, really isn't that great for VR. The pimax 5k's black levels are more than ok actually, and the CV1 and most Oled hmd's never actually go full black either, Think the Odyssey does, unless you do a registery hack that disables the pre-driving of the displays, and that really only works if you got really lucky with the panels in your device, and more often than not leaves horrible smearing in contrast areas. Also all the small OLED panels uses the pentile sub pixel structure meaning they skip every other red and blue subpixel making an lcd pane,l of the same resolution already seem like is at least 25% sharper. On top of this OLED has a lot of problems in terms of Mura noise, and general uniformity, and they degrade a lot faster than LCD's. Honestly only thing that worries me about the 'S' is the lower refresh rate.

So at least I'm not alone. I had some rather high hopes for the Pimax but those where clearly dashed. I can barely squeeze 40fps out of it on the smaller fov and that's with a 1080ti and graphics settings set to "mud". After three years with the cv1, having something just work is something hard to give up. And looking forward to not having to bother with the cameras.

Yeah that looks pretty wonky and certainly not right. I don't even think I have a mm of play in that direction either.

I on the other hand cannot recommend the Pimax at all. Yes the fov is great. But the software us a pita. The comfort is horrendous. The company's support system is hardly existing at all and their production line so lacking in QA I almost don't think I have heard of a unit without production flaws. My first unit was completely dead, and it took them four months and a butt load of back and forth emails to get it replaced. I have seriously switched back to my oc rift just so I can enjoy flying again. The unit is not ready to be considered consumer grade. I have pre ordered a rift s because the index isn't available in my country. And the only recommendation I can give for pimax is to stay away.

I I have no wiggle I can recognise as such. In fact I can separate each of them and there is no sideways movement until I start tipping the whole throttle itself. I suppose I can get some movement if you try too squeeze the two together but it's not from play in the joint but your bending the handles. That's not something I find myself doing naturally

For the original question. Yes the travel on the t50 throttle is quite a bit shorter than the warthog. But the precision is significantly better, with no wiggle or stiction. And my warthog throttle was barely two months old by the time I replaced it with the t50, it was in perfect new condition. Especially using the warthog for a helicopter collective I found it a bit lacking and often incapable of hitting a sweet spot. It was either too little or to much, hitting a middle wasn't possible with the warthog. No such issue with the t50, I can easily nail just the right position. This is nitpicking the warthog is a fine throttle. But since getting my t50 mine has been in storage.

I have just mounted mine in the same place. I'm personally keeping them for now, but there are cases I reach for the trackball instead. But yeah I think that's mostly because I haven't mounted them right yet.

The only way the ps5 will be handling 8k is through upscaling. Unless it is a quad GPU monster machine and the console cost over $4k. And I'm honestly not sure there will be any native 8k content whatsoever. Some live tv broadcasters have tried, but that was mostly to get into record books than anything, and only used for Olympic level sporting events. Movies are still getting their post-fx treatment done in 2k, even when released on UHD blueray, that would probably change someday, but not likely before 2030 would be my guess. As for streaming, a few nations might be ready but that is far from most. And even in areas with decently built coverage only about 30% of households has capacity for streaming 4k. And that is before we consider limiting ISP like download caps.

With the virpil's at least, since those are what I own. The cam's and springs are there only to give centering force and a force profile across deflection. The stick and axis themselves would honestly not need them at all, so albeit I haven't tested you should be perfectly able to just take the springs off and have a completely force less stick. But with this being a sim where we have no G-forces, I think I would personally prefer to have some feedback through tension of the stick than nothing, so far my sticks are setup rather softly. But like most here I'm nowhere near an actual pilot nor likely to even set foot in a helicopter unless I end up needing an airlift to a hospital.

I used these down a couple of years. I found the trick to was to not actually put my whole foot on them but instead push on the lower heel section with the front of my foot. I also put a piece of 2×4" across the floor in front of it as a heel rest. And yes you can theoretically use twist on a stick. But that's honestly a bit like saying you don't need a brake pedal in your car cause you could just use the parking brake.

Doesn't matter what you set it too. Even if you set it to off manually through debug tools or not. If the oculus runtime service see that the rendering\processing side of things doesn't have enough headroom to consistently stay high enough, it will trigger ASW regardless. And this is a good thing, you much rather want this on rather than not. Considering how this game is process limited with other hangups in code etc. There is no way you will play in VR and not need interpolation. Once we get the promised boost, you might be able to get 90fps native if you got a newer rig with about 5ghz processing speed and 1080ti\2080ti.

The profile saving in DCS is just for backing up, although it's a lot simpler to just copy the input folder under save games than using it. You save actual button maps as you hit ok and leaves the control section.

The detents is set from factory at 50% so utterly pointless. It's easy enough to change. Personally I prefer to just run clean. As for mounts, should be fine, just need the appropriate mount plate.

Add ons are incremental yes. But I also figured why not grab the extras from day one. Doesn't really cost that much considering. I have yet to even try the cam but I am getting good use out of the width adjustment kit.

I just screwed some cat eye hooks into my hotas mounts. (2×4" diy mounts) Tied two locking hooks to my armrest by cutting the rope for an outboard motor starter, seriously that was 1/10 that price of regular ripe for some reason. No more sliding and the whole affair took about 8 minutes.

The problem with this grip is it has a very narrow focus. It's missing a lot options. Sure it's closer to warbrd frame but who really has only an interest in that exclusively? I certainly don't and more hats and buttons gives greater flexibility. So who spends €250 on a flightstick, with 18 buttons when you could get one with 35 buttons for €300.

Would the virpil configurator do anything for the warthog base ? Thrustmaster uses the older method of dealing with layouts and button maps as a virtual device and requires the target profiles running in background. So I guess the firmware on the gimbal is very basic. I would be very surprised if you load up a virpil configuration to the warthog gimbal. I think it's as simple as the first product virpil made was the mongoose grip that was designed to work on the warthog. But I would consider it a lot more likely that someone would switch the gimbal rather than grip. Cause frankly that warthog plastic cupholder is leaving a lot wanting in comparison. And now that virpil has a second gen gimbal on its way as well as the warbrd. They have no reason to maintain backwards compatibility with the warthog and it was a limiting factor on the mongoose grip I'm sure.

I'm getting two of those mount plates asap. Also those pedals look great. Sadly I have no reason to switch from my Crosswinds any time soon. ;) Mentioned this on reddit as well. But long curved extension for the t50's? Wink wink.

For things in stock. About a week to be shipped. As for pre-orders. Well it's called pre order for a reason. I waited just over three months or so for my throttle. No regrets. That was an order made for the first or second batch of production throttles to be sent after the pre orders where shipped on those last year

I suppose I could use a centre stick... Anyone know how to grow a couple of extra arms?

Simple. Put both handles at the the detent position. Flip the throttle on its side and you should see two slits, in those slits are two grub screws. Use a 2mm Allen key and loosen all four of the screws . No need to remove them completely just loosen them with a turn or two. If you want to try a detent at some point just pit your throttle handle in it's position and gently fasten the grub again. Both grubs can be fastened at different places so can have two separate detents per throttle axis. Personally I myself prefer having a clean throttle with no detents.

The answer is yes and no. You will need the virpil software for calibration and setup of your device. Do not use windows calibration ! After that you won't need it until you need to change something. That usually means having changed something fundamental like cams, springs or the grip itself.

Guys check your connections. These sticks a lot more power than your usual usb sticks to run reliably, some motherboards even can't supply enough amps. I was getting first random disconnects on my throttle, that settled too the throttle modifier just would not shift states on occasion and other just plain really weird behaviour. And one night as I fired up my right stick was sending ransom press on a button and brake lever stuck to 50%. Turns out my hub has been getting wonky, got a new one that night and everything has been hunky dory since. I even swear the LED's on the throttle is brighter. EDIT: Cell phone posting is a mess.